Rathlin Trip

Timothy Ferres, 2024

"THE island is rather more than six miles in length and one in breadth. It contains an area of 4,000 acres, of which 1,000 are sheltered and capable of cultivation, the rest being heather and rock."

"The approach is at all times dangerous; the tide sets fiercely through the straits which divide the island from the mainland, and when the wind is from the west the Atlantic swell renders it impossible to land."

"The people are simple, laborious, honest, and possess a degree of affection for the island that may surprise strangers."

Thus wrote the Rev Canon Hugh Forde in 1928 about Rathlin Island in his book, Round the Coast of Northern Ireland.

I stayed on Rathlin for three days in July, 2024.

I've stayed on Rathlin many times before, always at the Manor House.

After a hearty breakfast on the first morning I prepared for an invigorating walk to the West Lighthouse in the townland of Kebble, a distance of about 4½ miles.

The walk takes one past quite a number of interesting features and places.

A few miles along the main tarmacked road I came to a lane veering off to the right, with a large open gate and cattle bars.

Track to Knockans and ruinous dwellings (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

It looks private; there are, however, no warning notices about trespassing or private property.

This track still has compacted limestone gravel, and is presumably original.

Famine Wall at gatepost (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

After perhaps five or more minutes a long wall is encountered, bisected by a gate; which, I think, is what's known as the Famine Wall.

This area of the island - Kilpatrick and Knockans townlands - was reputedly one of the more populous parts.

Remains of farm dwelling at Knockans (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

I saw a number of ruinous and dilapidated cottages, even clachans.

Retracing my way back to the main road, I went westwards and almost immediately saw another ruinous house which was, according to Nick Sebastian, a shop belonging to Hugh and Jessie Spears.

Remains of Spears' house from the main road (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

This shop must have been popular with the islanders up the hill.

Closer to the West Lighthouse, Kebble House - really a cottage - appears to be the most westerly dwelling on Rathlin today.

It has no permanent residents and seems to be owned by a government department today.

Keeper's room in lighthouse (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The West Lighthouse, including the RSPB bird centre and a little museum, is a highlight of any trip to Rathlin.

It cost no less than £400,000 to construct in 1912 (about £38.4 million in 2024). 

Timothy Ferres, 2024

ON my second day I walked closer to the manor house; to Craigmacagan, now an RSPB walking trail.

It begins on the main road, inland a bit and not far from Mill Bay.

This is probably my favourite walk on the island: over beautiful wild grassy tracks, gently undulating and abounding with wild flora and fauna.

I took a little video clip of Craigmacagan above.

I went for a very brief dip in the sea, despite not having the bulky wetsuit with me.

I'm not - yet - a committed open water swimmer; though who knows? The water was not too cold and the old gnashers were not chattering anyway!

Three dinners and three breakfasts in the manor house; a visit to the celebrated McCuaig's bar at Church Bay (a mere hop, skip, and jump from the manor house; a few hours seated on a side bench with others who were watching England play Spain at football.

I am quite indifferent to team sports, so when I was asked about my choice of team, I pleaded neutrality.

I had reserved a sailing on the larger vehicle ferry at noon, though decided to take the 10am fast ferry back to Ballycastle, County Antrim; merely twenty minutes away.