Hilltown

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

HILLTOWN, a village, in the parish of Clonduff, barony of Upper Iveagh, County Down.

Hilltown is named after the Hill family, Earls of Hillsborough and Marquesses of Downshire.

It stands near the base of Eagle Mountain, and at the intersection of the mountain road from Newry to Bryansford with that from Rathfriland to Rostrevor, two miles south of Rathfriland.

Main Street, Hilltown (Image: W A Green/NMNI)

It is a handsome village, with a small but relatively well kept inn [the Downshire Arms], strikingly indicating the care which its noble proprietor, the Marquess of Downshire, has bestowed on the improvement of his estates, and the fidelity with which his lordship's views have been promoted by his agent, W E Reilly Esq.

Hilltown ca 1830 (historic OS map).  Click to enlarge

In the grant of it to the Hillsborough family it is called Carquillan.

There is a market on Saturday and a large fair for cattle and linen yarn on the second Tuesday on every month.

Main Street, Hilltown (Timothy Ferres, 2023)

It is a chief constabulary police station.

The parish church of Clonduff having been destroyed in the war of 1641, a church was built here in 1766.

It is a large and handsome edifice with a tower, erected by aid of a gift of £338 from the late Board of First Fruits, and recently repaired by a grant of £230 from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners.

The Northern Ireland Department for Communites Historic Buildings branch remarks that St John's parish church was

Financed by the Earl of Hillsborough (later Lord Downshire) and completed in 1766 (Archæological Survey erroneously says 1776). Shown on McClatchey’s map of 1767 as “new church”. The bell is inscribed ‘Thomas Rudhall Glocester Founder 1772’. Refurbished in 1830s at a cost of £220. The church is of significance in being the first building in Hilltown, a planned village developed in the later 1700s by the Earl.

Here is also a glebe house, with a glebe of 21 acres; a Presbyterian meeting-house; a RC chapel, and the parochial school, for which a house was built in 1824 by the Marquess of Downshire, who has endowed it with £10 per annum.

I paid Hilltown a brief visit in May, 2023, en route to Leitrim car park for a little hike to Tievedockdarragh Mountain.

Pubs are abundant in this little village, given that, during the 18th century, it was a hub for illicit liquor smuggled along the Brandy Pad in the Mournes.

The Williams-Bulkeley Baronets

THE WILLIAMS-BULKELEY BARONETS OWNED 16,516 ACRES IN THE COUNTY OF ANGLESEY

This eminent family, in common with the Royal House of TUDOR and other distinguished lines derives from EDNYFED FYCHAN (c1170-1246), Chief Minister of Llewelyn the Great. William ap Griffith, of Cochwillan, Caernarvonshire, tenth in descent, assisted HENRY VII at Bosworth. His son, William Williams, of Cochwillan, was the first of the family who assumed the name of WILLIAMS.

William Williams' great-great-grandson,

SIR GRIFFITH WILLIAMS, of Penrhyn, Carnarvonshire (who succeeded to the estates of his uncle, the Rt Hon and Most Rev Dr John Williams, Lord Archbishop of York, 1641-6), was created a baronet in 1661, designated of Penrhyn, Caernarvonshire.

Sir Griffith's great-great-grandson,

SIR ROBERT WILLIAMS, 9th Baronet (1764-1830), married, in 1799, Anne, daughter of the Rev Edward Hughes, and had issue,

RICHARD, his successor;

Robert Griffith;

Arthur Wellesley;

Harriet Georgina; Emma; Anne Susanna; Charlotte Jemima; Eliza Martha; Selina Mary; Amelia Jane.

Sir Robert was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR RICHARD WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 10th Baronet (1801-75), who assumed, in 1827, the additional surname of BULKELEY; having inherited, in 1822, the property of Thomas James, 7th Viscount Bulkeley.

He married firstly, in 1828, Charlotte Mary, daughter of William Lewis Hughes, 1st Baron Dinorben, but had no issue; and secondly, in 1832, Maria Frances, daughter of Sir Thomas Stanley-Massey-Stanley Bt, and had issue,

RICHARD LEWIS MOSTYN, his successor;

Robert Stanley;

Thomas James;

Charles William.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR RICHARD LEWIS MOSTYN WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 11th Baronet (1833-84), who wedded firstly, in 1857, Mary Emily, daughter of Major Henry Bingham Baring, and had issue,

RICHARD HENRY, his successor.

He espoused secondly, in 1866, Margaret Elizabeth Peers, daughter of Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas Peers Williams, and had further issue,

Bridget Henrietta Frances.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his only son,

SIR RICHARD HENRY WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 12th Baronet (1862-1942), KCB VD JP, High Sheriff of Anglesey, 1887, Lord-Lieutenant of Anglesey, 1896, who wedded, in 1885, the Lady Magdalen Yorke, daughter of Charles, 5th Earl of Hardwicke, and had issue,

RICHARD GERARD WELLESLEY, his successor;

Generis Alma Windham; Æira Helen; Siriol Penelope Diana Katherine.

Sir Richard's only son,

RICHARD GERARD WELLESLEY WILLIAMS-BULKELEY MC (1887-1918), Major, Welsh Guards, married, in 1909, Victoria Alexandrina Stella, daughter of the Hon Sir Henry Charles Legge, and had issue,

RICHARD HARRY DAVID, his successor;

David;

Victoria Sylvia Jane.

Major Williams-Bulkeley was killed in action, 1918, when the baronetcy devolved upon his elder son,

SIR RICHARD HARRY DAVID WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 13th Baronet (1911-92), TD JP, Lord-Lieutenant of Anglesey, 1947-73, Gwynedd, 1974-92, who wedded, in 1938, Renée Arundel, daughter of Sir Thomas Lewis Hughes Neave Bt, and had issue,

RICHARD THOMAS, his successor;

Michael.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his elder son,

SIR RICHARD THOMAS WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 14th Baronet (1939-), DL, High Sheriff of Gwynedd, 1993, who married, in 1964, Sarah Susan, daughter of Sir Henry Josceline Phillimore, and has issue,

RICHARD HUGH (Major, Welsh Guards), born in 1968;

Harry David, born in 1968;

Victoria Mary, born in 1973.

(Image: 28 Days Later)

BARON HILL, Beaumaris, Anglesey, is mainly a two-storey Georgian mansion.

Its south front rendered with stucco.

The five-bay eastern elevation comprises a central projection with a segmental bowed front, a recessed bay either side of this, and semi-octagonal projections at the corners.

The western front has a central porch with four Tuscan columns, with flanking bays projecting slightly, and two further projecting bays at the ends.

There is a balustraded parapet in the central sections of the eastern and western elevations, and also below some of the first floor windows.

The estate, named after the hill on which it stands, was established in 1618 by Sir Richard Bulkeley, as the seat of the influential Bulkeley family, who were originally from Cheshire, until William Bulkeley was appointed Deputy Constable of Beaumaris Castle.

This William Bulkeley married one of the daughters of Gwilym ap Gruffydd ap Gwylim, and began to accumulate land and public offices, which eventually lead to the Bulkeley family becoming the biggest landowners in Anglesey.

The mansion house was begun in 1618 during the reign of JAMES I, and was re-modelled in the Neo-Palladian style in 1776.

EDWARD VII visited Baron Hill and had tea on the terrace in 1907.

Shortly thereafter, during the 1st World War, death duties caused the family fortune to collapse, and made it practically impossible for the family to continue to maintain the house.

They were subsequently obliged to move into more modest accommodation (Red Hill) nearby.

Baron Hill was consequently used for storage until the beginning of the 2nd World War, when it was converted into a billet for Polish soldiers.

It is said that Baron Hill was so cold at night that the Poles burnt down part of the building in the hope that they would be transferred to warmer accommodation.

The estate today contains a golf course, and there have been plans to convert Baron Hill into de luxe apartments.

First published in March, 2021.

Farragh House

THE BONDS WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY LONGFORD, WITH 6,574 ACRES

EPHRAIM BOND, from Yorkshire, settled in the city of Londonderry about 1650, and acquired a considerable property by commercial pursuits there.

He married Miss Dewin, and had two sons,

WILLIAM, his heir;
John, of County Londonderry.

The elder son,  

WILLIAM BOND, of Glenlough, County Londonderry, was father of,

JAMES BOND, of Glenlough, who married Miss Burns, and had five sons, viz,

William;
JAMES;
Oliver;
Thomas;
Saint.

The second son,

THE REV JAMES BOND (-1762), a Presbyterian minister, of Corboy, County Longford, espoused Catherine, daughter of the Rev Thomas Wensley, of Lifford, County Donegal, and had, with four daughters, as many sons, viz.

Wensley (Very Rev), Dean of Ross;
James (Sir), 1st Baronet, of Coolamber;
WILLIAM, of whom presently;
Thomas.

The third son,

WILLIAM BOND (-1811), of Edgeworthstown, County Longford, High Sheriff of County Longford, 1794, married Elizabeth, daughter of Alexander Perry, and had issue,

James Wensley, 1822-43;
Alexander Perry;
Thomas;
WILLOUGHBY, of whom we treat.

The youngest son,

WILLOUGHBY BOND JP DL (1790-1875), of Farragh, County Longford, High Sheriff of County Longford, 1832, wedded, in 1829, Alicia Sidney, daughter of William Gosselin, of Abbey Derg, County Longford, and had issue,

William Wensley, 1834-54;
JAMES WILLOUGHBY, his heir;
Sidney Margaret.

The only surviving son,

JAMES WILLOUGHBY BOND JP DL (1837-1918), of Farragh, High Sheriff of County Longford, 1870, espoused, in 1864, Emma Georgiana Charlotte, daughter of William Hunter Little, DL, of Llanvair Grange, Monmouthshire, and had issue,

WILLOUGHBY JAMES, his heir;
Wensley Hunter, b 1876;
Georgiana Sidney; Henrietta Letitia; Alicia Mabel; Ethel Emma Louisa.

The eldest son,

WILLOUGHBY JAMES BOND JP DL (1867-1942), of Farragh, High Sheriff of County Longford, 1905, married, in 1892, Mary Rosa Kerr, daughter of Captain William Bond, of Newtown Bond, County Longford, and had issue,

BRIAN WILLOUGHBY, of Farragh;
Francis Willoughby, 1901-53;
Mary Hunter; Kathleen Sidney.

FARRAGH, or Farraghroe House, was originally a shooting-box, though considerably enlarged by Willoughby Bond between 1811-33, the architect being Hargrave of Cork.

Additions were also made during the Victorian era.

The entrance front comprises three storeys and five bays; Wyatt windows in the centre above a pillared porch.

The side elevation was of two storeys and three bays framed by huge, plain pilasters.

There was a large, two-storey central hall with a gallery; stained-glass incorporated the Bond family motto, Deus Providebit.

Farragh was sold ca 1960 by Mr Brian Willoughby Bond (1894-1963) and subsequently demolished.

First published in March, 2012.

Blacker of Carrickblacker

THE BLACKERS OWNED 1,466 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ARMAGH

This family, according to Burke's, derives its name and descent from BLACAR, king or chief of the Norsemen, or Danes, who settled at Dublin in the beginning of the 10th century. He was the son of Godfred, and the grandson of Imar. Succeeding his brother Amlave in 938, he led back the Danes to Dublin, from whence they had been driven.

In 940, he plundered Clonmacnoise and Kildare, and the next year he slew with his own axe, in a pitched battle on the banks of the River Bann, Muirchertach, King of Ailech, called the Hector or bravest of his time. A battle-axe features in the Blacker coat-of-arms and crest.

The day after, he marched against and sacked the city of Armagh. It is a singular fact that his descendants have for many generations possessed the site of this victory; the traditions of the country; the remains of an ancient encampment; and the discovery of both Danish and Irish weapons (some of which are in the possession of the Blacker family).

These facts strongly corroborate the testimony of historians, in this particular. In 943, Blacar was driven from Dublin by a successful attack of the Irish, and he fell in 946 near that city, with 1,600 of his people, vanquished by Congalach, King of Ireland, and was succeeded by his son, SITRIC MacBLACAR.

By some authors he is called Blaccard, and it is worthy of observation, that the name is still frequently pronounced, in some circles, Blackard.

THE FIRST of the family who settled in Armagh,

CAPTAIN VALENTINE BLACKER, of Carrick, in the parish of Seagoe, County Armagh, as he is described in old records, was born in 1597.

This soldier, a commandant of Horse and Foot, went from Poppleton, in Yorkshire, to Ulster.

Captain Blacker purchased the manor of Carrowbrack from Anthony Cope, of Loughgall, in 1660.

This manor was subsequently called Carrickblacker.

During Captain Blacker's lifetime, and principally by his means, the old church of Seagoe, now in ruins, was built.

He married Judith, daughter of Michael Harrison, of Ballydargan, County Down, and had issue,

Ferdinando "Capitaine-Leifftenante" in Savile's troop of horse;
GEORGE, of whom we treat;
Violetta; Dora; Maud.

Captain Blacker died in 1677, and was succeeded by his younger son,

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL GEORGE BLACKER, of Carrickblacker, a firm adherent of the royal house of STUART, High Sheriff of County Armagh, 1684, who wedded Rose, daughter and heiress of William Latham, of Ballytroan, County Tyrone.

Colonel Blacker was one of the gentlemen obliged by JAMES II to proceed to Londonderry for the purpose of demanding the surrender of that city; but remaining firm to the cause of WILLIAM III, his name, together with that of his son, William Blacker, appeared in the Act of Attainder of that day.

Mrs Rose Blacker died in 1689.

The precise time of Colonel Blacker's demise is uncertain, but it must have been shortly after: Both were buried in Seagoe Church.

Colonel Blacker was succeeded by his son,

WILLIAM BLACKER, of Carrick and Ballytroan, who built (as appears from a date cut on a stone in the wall) the manor house of Carrickblacker in 1692.

A staunch supporter of WILLIAM III, he fought at the battle of the Boyne.

This gentleman wedded firstly, in 1666, Elizabeth, daughter of Colonel the Hon Robert Stewart, of Irry, County Tyrone, third son of 1st Baron Castle Stuart, descended from the Dukes of Albany, and by her he had issue,

STEWART, his heir;
Robert, ancestor of BLACKER of Drogheda and Meath.

Mr Blacker espoused secondly Hannah Lawrence; and thirdly, Theodosia, daughter of Oliver St John, of Tandragee Castle, County Armagh, and had further issue,

Samuel, ancestor of BLACKER of Elm Park and Tullahinel.

Mr Blacker died in 1732, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

STEWART BLACKER, of Carrickblacker, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1706, who married, in 1704, Barbara, daughter of the Rev Henry Young, and niece and heiress of William Latham, of Brookend, County Tyrone, by whom he had issue,

WILLIAM, his heir;
Latham;
Henry (Rev);
George, of Hallsmill, Co Down;
Barbara.

Mr Blacker died in 1751, aged 80, and was succeeded by his eldest son, 

WILLIAM BLACKER (1709-83), of Carrickblacker and Brookend, High Sheriff of County Armagh, 1734, County Tyrone, 1749, who espoused, in 1738, Letitia, daughter of Henry Cary, of Dungiven Castle, MP for County Londonderry, and had issue,

STEWART, his heir;
William;
Henry;
George (Rev), Rector of Seagoe;
Eliza; Barbara; Martha; Alicia; Letitia; Lucinda.

Mr Blacker died in 1783, and was interred beside his wife in the abbey church of Bath, in which city he had resided the latter years of his life.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

THE VERY REV STEWART BLACKER (1740-1826), of Carrickblacker, Dean of Leighlin, Archdeacon of Dromore, Rector of Drumcree, Vicar of Seagoe, who married Eliza, daughter of Sir Hugh Hill Bt, MP for Londonderry, and had issue,

WILLIAM, his heir;
George, Captain, East India Company;
Stewart, Captain RN;
James Stewart (Rev);
Letitia; Sophia; Eliza; Louisa; Caroline.

Dean Blacker was succeeded by his son,

WILLIAM BLACKER JP DL (1777-1855), of Carrickblacker, Lieutenant-Colonel, Armagh Militia, High Sheriff of County Armagh, 1811, who wedded, in 1810, Anne, eldest daughter of Sir Andrew Ferguson Bt, MP for Londonderry.

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL VALENTINE BLACKER CB (1778-1826), Surveyor-General of India, was a relative.

Colonel and Mrs Blacker and Lady Ferguson

Colonel Blacker was Vice-Treasurer of Ireland, 1810-17.

Dying without an heir, the family estates devolved upon his nephew,

STEWART BLACKER JP DL, of Carrickblacker, Barrister, High Sheriff of County Armagh, 1859, Member, Royal Irish Academy, who died unmarried in 1881, when the Carrickblacker estate devolved upon his sister,

HESTER ANNE,  BARONESS VON STIEGLITZ, for her life, and the representation of the family reverted to his kinsman, 

THE REV ROBERT SHAPLAND CAREW BLACKER JP MA (1826-1913), of Woodbrook House, Enniscorthy, County Wexford, and Carrickblacker, County Armagh, son of William Blacker and Elizabeth Anne Carew, who wedded, in 1858, Theodosia Charlotte Sophia, daughter of George Meara, of May Park, County Waterford, by Sarah Catherine his wife, sister of Edward Southwell, 3rd Viscount Bangor, and had issue,

William Robert George (1860-80);
EDWARD CAREW, of whom hereafter;
STEWART WARD WILLIAM, succeeded his brother.

The eldest surviving son,

EDWARD CAREW BLACKER JP DL (1863-1932), of Carrickblacker and Woodbrook House, High Sheriff of County Wexford, 1908, died unmarried and was succeeded by his brother,

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL STEWART WARD WILLIAM BLACKER DSO JP DL (1865-1935), of Carrickblacker and Woodbrook House, who married, in 1903, Eva Mary Lucy St John, daughter of Colonel Edward Albert FitzRoy, and had issue,

WILLIAM DESMOND, his heir;
Robert Stewart, Commander RN;
Terence Fitzroy;
Betty Mary.

Colonel Blacker was succeeded by his eldest son,

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL WILLIAM DESMOND BLACKER DSO (1903-44), of Carrickblacker, who was killed in action at Normandy, France.

Colonel Blacker died unmarried.

CARRICKBLACKER HOUSE, near Portadown, County Armagh, was a house dated 1692, though much embellished during the 19th century.

It had a three-storey, five-bay front, a curvilinear "Dutch" gable in the centre, a ballustraded parapet to the roof, and urns at the sky-line.

There was a balustrade above the entrance door.

The estate was purchased in 1937 by Portadown Golf Club, which demolished Carrickblacker House in 1958 to make way for a new clubhouse.

First published in May, 2013.

Ashfield Park

GEORGE CHARLES BRACKENRIDGE OWNED 2,649 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY TYRONE

JOSEPH TRIMBLE, of Ashfield Park, County Tyrone (whose mother, Margaret, was daughter of George Brackenridge, of Ballymacan (Ballagh), County Tyrone), died in 1841, leaving issue, by Catherine his wife, daughter of Thomas Smith, of Lisnaskea,

GEORGE CHARLES, his heir;
Jane, m;
Margaret, m.

He was succeeded by his only son,

GEORGE CHARLES BRACKENRIDGE JP DL (1814-79), of Ashfield Park, a barrister, who assumed, in 1846, the metronymic of BRACKENRIDGE in lieu of Trimble, and the arms of Brackenridge quarterly with those of Trimble.

Mr Brackenridge married, in 1870, Matilda Anne (d 1919), daughter of the Rev Sir John Richardson-Bunbury Bt, and had an only child,

UPTON PERCIVAL BRACKENRIDGE (1872-1927).

Photo Credit: http://www.stonedatabase.com

ASHFIELD PARK, near Clogher, County Tyrone, stands close to the Fardross estate.

It was built in 1840 in the Italianate style.

It comprises two storeys and four bays, with a hipped slate roof.

A concealed glass dome is in the centre of the roof.

The doorway has a flight of steps; and above the door there is a rounded arch with fanlight.

There are paired, recessed windows with Corinthian columns forming mullions.

Canted, two-storey bays are on the eastern side.

Photo Credit: http://www.stonedatabase.com

George Charles Brackenridge built a monumental tower for himself on a hilltop in his estate, where he was interred.

This triple-tiered mausoleum of 1847 comprises a three-storey tower topped with an iron railing, above a vault.

The base is square and at ground-floor level there are arched door and window openings.

The entrance is accessible by means of a narrow stairway a mere 18" in width.

The top floor is reached by a ladder through a trapdoor.

Mr Brackenridge's memorial tower was plundered during the 2nd World War by troops garrisoned in the vicinity.

First published in April, 2015.

1st Earl Alexander of Tunis

JAMES, 4th Earl of Caledon (1846-98), KP, DL, of Caledon Castle, County Tyrone, wedded, in 1884, the Lady Elizabeth Graham-Toler, daughter of Hector, 3rd Earl of Norbury, and had issue,

Eric James Desmond, his successor;
Herbrand Charles, father of the 6th Earl;
HAROLD RUPERT LEOFRIC GEORGE, of whom we treat;
William Sigismund Patrick.

The third son,

THE HON HAROLD RUPERT LEOFRIC GEORGE ALEXANDER (1891-1969), FIELD-MARSHAL THE RT HON THE EARL ALEXANDER OF TUNIS, KG, GCB, OM, GCMG, CSI, DSO, MC, TD, PC

• Brigade Commander in India, 1934
• ADC to His Majesty, 1936-7
• Major-General, 1937
• General, 1942
• Field-Marshal, 1944
• Governor-General and Commander-in-Chief, Canada, 1946-52
• Colonel, Irish Guards, 1947
• Governor of Harrow School, 1952

Field-Marshal Alexander was elevated to the peerage, in 1946, in the dignity of Viscount Alexander of Tunis, of Errigal, County Donegal.

Lord Alexander was created, in 1952, Baron Rideau, of Ottawa, and of Castle Derg, County Tyrone, and EARL ALEXANDER OF TUNIS.

He married, in 1931, the Lady Margaret Diana Bingham, daughter of George Charles, 5th Earl of Lucan, and had issue,

SHANE WILLIAM DESMOND, Lord Rideau, his successor;

Brian James;

Rose Maureen; Susan Mary (adopted).

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

SHANE WILLIAM DESMOND (1935-), 2nd Earl, who wedded firstly, in 1971, Hilary, daughter of John van Geest; and secondly (following a divorce), in 1981, Davina Mary, daughter of James, 4th Baron Terrington, by which lady he has issue,

Rose Margaret; Lucy Caroline.

The heir presumptive to titles is the 2nd Earl's younger brother, the Hon Brian James Alexander CMG (born 1939).

Former residences ~ 12 Wilton Street, London; Caledon, County Tyrone; The Vale, Windsor Forest, Berkshire.

Wilmont House

THE BRISTOWS OWNED 124 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ANTRIM

WILMONT HOUSE, Dunmurry, is located on Upper Malone Road in south Belfast.

It is a plain two-storey Victorian house, built in 1859, with a three-bay front and a balustraded porch.

There is a lower wing, ending with the wing as high as the main block.

The adjoining front has a central curved bow and one bay on either side; and camber-headed windows in the upper storey of the main block.

North Elevation with Porch; Bow on the West Elevation
(Image: Timothy Ferres)

The roof is eaved on a bracket cornice.

There is a good article here about Wilmont's history.

The estate was formed in the mid-18th century by William Stewart, a member of a family which had come from Scotland, over a century before, to neighbouring Ballydrain.

The Stewarts were prominent farmers.

It is recorded that carrots, on a field scale, were grown at Wilmont in the early 1800s - a novel crop in those days - and that one of the early threshing machines was erected on the Wilmont Farm in 1811. There was a bleach-green on the property until 1815.

Bleach-greens, common features of the Lagan Valley during the 18th and 19th centuries, consisted of grass areas where long strips of brown linen were pegged out to bleach in natural light.

The original house, which stood on the site of the present-day barbecue area, dated back to 1740 and was replaced by the present red-bricked house in 1859.

South Elevation (Image: Timothy Ferres)

This house was designed by Thomas Jackson (1807-90), one of Belfast`s most notable Victorian architects.

Wilmont House is typical of Jackson's domestic designs, sensibly and comfortably planned, undemonstrative in an age when many buildings were excessively ornate, and providing a composition entirely suiting the situation.

One unusual feature of the house is the false window which has been painted on the brickwork above the porch to balance the facade composition.

North Elevation (Image: Timothy Ferres)

In the 19th century, Wilmont was inhabited by the Bristow family, influential bankers who were descendants of the Rev William Bristow, Sovereign (mayor) of Belfast between 1786 and 1798.

A distinctive carved stone roundel adjacent to the entrance bears the initials ‘JB’ for James Bristow.

(Image: Timothy Ferres)

The Bristows sold Wilmont to Robert Henry Sturrock Reade, JP, DL (1837-1913) in 1879.

His son, George Reade, subsequently sold the house to Sir Thomas Dixon Bt.

Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon purchased Wilmont demesne in 1919.

Wilmont was one of three homes belonging to the Dixons, the others being Drumadarragh and Cairndhu, both in County Antrim.

The Dixons were a highly respected and illustrious couple.

Sir Thomas, 2nd Baronet, born in Groomsport, County Down in 1868, was the eldest son of Sir Daniel Dixon, Bt.

Both Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon had distinguished public careers: From 1939-41 they served as first Mayor and Mayoress of Larne, and were great benefactors to the Borough.

In 1935, they donated Dixon Park to Larne Borough Council as a gift, together with £500 for the provision of music in the park.

Cairndhu was donated to the Hospitals Authority, for use as a convalescent home.

In 1957, Lady Dixon presented the Mayoress's chain of office to Larne Borough Council; and in 1964, robes, to be worn by Aldermen, Councillors and Mace Bearer.

In the early 1960s, Lady Dixon donated £10,000 towards the cost of converting and renovating the former technical college into Council Offices.

They are now known as Sir Thomas Dixon Buildings.

Sir Thomas died at Harrowgate in 1950. Lady Dixon, who was appointed DBE after the 1st World War in recognition of her service to HM Forces, died in 1964. 

A year before her death, in 1963, Wilmont demesne was officially handed over to Belfast Corporation.

(Image: Belfast Telegraph)

The house, according to her wishes, was shortly afterwards opened as a home for the elderly; while the grounds, at her behest, were opened to the public.

The present park, named after its benefactors, consists of 134 acres and has been the venue for the City of Belfast International Rose Trials since 1964.

Over the years, it has become one of the most popular parkland areas in the city of Belfast.

Many distinguished visitors have stayed at Wilmont House in the past: Captain Scott, the famous Antarctic explorer, was a guest, during his visit to Belfast in 1904.

In 1934, the house became the temporary residence of His Excellency the Governor of Northern Ireland when Government House, Hillsborough, was damaged by fire on 7th August of that year.

The Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester and Earl of Ulster, was a guest in 1935, during Sir Thomas's period as Lord-Lieutenant. 

During World war II, the house served as the Northern Ireland headquarters of the United States Army.

The property, as already mentioned, was given to Belfast Corporation by Lady Dixon in 1963.

Lady Dixon had given her home and demesne of 140 acres to the City of Belfast "for the greatest good of the citizens of the City."

She continued to live in her home, and when Lady Dixon died, in 1964, Wilmont became a nursing home.

The nursing home closed its doors in 1992; and thereafter it was used for occasional events and as offices for council staff.

Since 2013 Wilmont has lain derelict and forlorn.

***** 

The 134 acres formed part of a demesne founded in the 18th century for a house of 1740, which is now gone.

The grounds retain many features from the gardens for this house and many subsequent developments added by Belfast City Council.

There are fine mature trees in undulating woodland and parkland, with the River Lagan adding interest.

A large part of the park contains the International Rose Trial grounds, set up in 1964 and remodelled from the late 1980s. 

Judging takes place over a long period but the highlight is Rose Week, which has been marked every year in July since 1975.

Camellia trials have taken place since 1981. 

A Japanese Garden was added in 1991.

The walled gardens have been redesigned from their traditional layout and contain interesting plant material.

There are also remains from former times: for example, an ice house; gate lodge; stable block; and a yew walk.

The recreational facilities take the form of picnic benches, children’s playground, lawns, good planting, band concerts, café and shop. 

This is not a park designated for organised sports, though part of the original holding is now a private golf course.

First published August, 2010.

Bushmills Miscellany

The Diamond, Bushmills, pre-1921

Bushmills in County Antrim is one of my favourite villages in Northern Ireland.

It stands on the River Bush, about two miles south of the Giant's Causeway, eight miles north-east of Coleraine, and almost sixty miles north by west of Belfast.

The Macnaghten Baronets, who lived at their seat, DUNDARAVE, were the landlords of Bushmills, and did much to improve the village.

It contains a commodious hotel, viz. the Bushmills Inn; and a large and well-known distillery.

The village used to have a court-house (the building remains); a small factory for spades and shovels, paper and flour mills.

The principal residences are Dundarave House, in its extensive demesne; BENVARDEN; BEARDIVILLE; and SEAPORT LODGE, in Portballintrae.

The following photographs were taken in 2014.

Former premises of Causeway Books

My first port-of-call was the former second-hand and antiquarian bookshop, which, alas, closed down in the autumn of 2013.

I always enjoyed a good browse here and looked forward to my visits.

The erstwhile proprietor had been good enough to suggest two other sources in the vicinity, one of which is in Society Street, Coleraine (almost opposite the parish church on the main street).

The owner's son, James, now owns the Coleraine shop.

The Old Courthouse in 2014

The former courthouse in Main Street, with its distinctive portico, was built in 1834 by the Macnaghten family, of Dundarave, to serve as a petty sessions court and as a symbol of authority in the area.

The building contained a courtroom and cells, with apartments above for the police.

It served as a petty session court well into the first half of the 20th century, when it became a private residence.

*****

The former National School, of 1842, has lain derelict for many years.

Bushmills National School in 2014

This fine old building is yearning for a sympathetic new owner to restore its fabric and historic character.

In March, 2014, the Northern Ireland Department of the Environment (DoE) served an Urgent Works Notice on the agent for the owner.

The old school is a listed building, built as part of a nationwide initiative launched in 1830 by Edwin Stanley, Chief Secretary for Ireland and later Prime Minister of the United Kingdom.

It's  a dignified and well proportioned building of two storeys.

The front elevation has a central projection which is carried up to a pediment and has a distinctive use of a double chimney as a terminating feature.

Built in random rubble with the quoins, hood mouldings, cornice, chimneys and ornamental details all in dressed stone, the building has a pleasing civic quality and could make a valuable contribution to the town if brought back into use.

First published in June, 2014.

Desmond Castle

THE EARLS OF DEVON WERE THE LARGEST LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY LIMERICK, WITH 33,026 ACRES

 

The COURTENAYS, one of the most illustrious races amongst the English nobility, deduce their paternal descent from ATHON DE COURTENAY, who sprang himself from PHARAMOND, founder of the French monarchy in 1420, and common patriarch of all the Kings of France. This ATHON having fortified, during the reign of ROBERT the Wise, the town of COURTENAY, in the Île-de-France, thence assumed his surname. 

WILLIAM COURTENAY, de jure 3rd Earl of Devon (1553-1630), High Sheriff of Devon, 1581; who, in 1585, was one of the undertakers to send over settlers for the better planting of Ireland, and thus laid the foundation of the prodigious estate in that kingdom enjoyed by his posterity.

Sir William married Elizabeth, daughter of Henry, 2nd Earl of Rutland, and was succeeded by his eldest surviving son,

FRANCIS, de jure 4th Earl ((1576-1638), of Powderham Castle, Devon, who was succeeded by his eldest son,

WILLIAM, de jure 5th Earl (1628-1702).

IN THE late 16th century, the vast estates of the Earl of Desmond were forfeited by the Crown.

The Castle, Newcastle West, County Limerick, and a large amount of surrounding land, was granted to Sir William Courtenay, de jure 3rd Earl of Devon, of Powderham, Devon, in 1591.

The Courtenays, Earls of Devon, still live at Powderham Castle in Kent.

Sir William was a staunch Roman Catholic and suffered persecution for his beliefs.

His son George might even have practised his faith in secret.

Their home was reputed to have had a room in which priests were hidden.

Courtenay was denounced in the House of Commons as a "papist recusant" in 1624.

In December, 1641, disturbances broke out in Newcastle West and the castle was burned down.

It is unlikely that anybody lived in the castle after that time.

The old castle house, which was adjacent to the castle and where the agents for the Courtenays lived, was probably built around 1700.

This house was burnt during the Irish civil war in 1922.

In time the Courtenays were to become the largest landlords in County Limerick, owning up to 85,000 acres in the south-west of the county; the remaining lands of Newcastle West and the surrounding countryside were known as the Devon Estate until the first years of the 20th century.

In 1908, under the 1903 Land Act, practically all the lands of the Devon Estate were sold.

The town of Newcastle West itself was sold in 1910.

The last agents on the Courtenays in Newcastle West were the Curling family.

They were agents from 1848 until the decimation and sale of the Estate.

After the break up of the estate, they bought the castle building and some of the surrounding land from Lord Devon.

The last Curling, Richard, died in 1943.

In 1944 his house house and the castle grounds were sold.

It is believed that the Castle, known as the Desmond Banqueting Hall and Castle, is now state-owned.

First published in May, 2011.

Tynan

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE PARLIAMENTARY GAZETTEER OF IRELAND, PUBLISHED IN 1846

TYNAN, a parish, partly in the barony of Armagh, but chiefly in that of Tiranny, County Armagh.

The barony of Armagh section contains the village of Killylea; and the Tiranny section contains the villages of Tynan and Middletown.

The parish contains 17,646 statute acres, whereof 80¾ are under water, being the small lakes of Nelligan, Hanslough, and Kiltubbrid, which discharge their superfluous waters into Glaslough, County Monaghan.

The quoad sacra parish of Tynan is exclusive of the perpetual curacy of Killylea.

The surface of the quoad civilia parish extends along the western margin of the county, from the vicinity of Archfield House on the south to a point on the river Blackwater 2¼ miles below Caledon Bridge on the north.

It is traversed, over nearly three-quarters of its length, from the northern extremity southward, along the west, by the Ulster Canal; and, in a general view, it consists of good land, and possesses a very considerable aggregate of demesne ground and pleasant scenery.

The southern part of the eastern district was formerly in a half-waste condition, but is now improved and almost wholly profitable.

The lands on one side of the village of Middletown are low, flat, and marshy; but those on the other side are hilly and tolerably good.

The land around the village of Tynan, and eastward thence towards Armagh, possesses a fertile limestone soil, and presents a comparative profusion of wood and other decoration.

The lands of the parish are divided among several proprietors in fee: ten townlands belong to the Provost and Fellows of Trinity College, Dublin; eight to the trustees of Bishop Sterne's charities [John Sterne, Bishop of Clogher]; and the remainder to Lord Gosford, Lord Caledon, SIR JAMES STRONGE Bt, and several others.

The circumstance of a great number of resident gentlemen spending their incomes in the improvement of their property and in the diffusion of comfort and useful information throughout the district, has tended much to the prosperity of all classes , the existence of which is apparent in the highly improved culture of the land, the exterior of the farmhouses and cottages, and the general appearance and demeanour of the population.

The most remarkable seats are TYNAN ABBEY, the handsome seat of the Stronge Baronets, ¾ of a mile south-west of the village of Tynan; FELLOWS HALL; Woodpark, of the ST GEORGE family; Mount Irwin, of the Irwins; Bondville; Ashford; Portnelligan; and DARTAN.

The principal antiquities, additional to those at the villages, are the ruins of Ardconnell Castle, on the western border, 1 mile south-west of Middletown; and the ruins of another castle, 4 miles south of Killylea.

The roads from Caledon and Monaghan to Armagh pass across the interior.

This parish is a rectory, a prebend, and a separate benefice, in the diocese of Armagh.

One of the schools, at Enagh, was partly supported by the Rector; one, at Derryane, was partly supported by subscription.

In 1843, a national school at the village of Tynan had on its books 75 boys and 26 girls.

Tynan, 1922 (Image: Belfast Telegraph)

TYNAN is in the parish of Tynan, barony of Tiranny, County Armagh.

"This town, which is situated on an eminence," says Sir Charles Coote, in his Statistical Survey of the County of Armagh, "is inconsiderable as the number or neatness of its houses; but it has an excellent church with a handsome steeple."

"Without the churchyard is a relic of antiquity, an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and 4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another, which is square, having its faces concaved, and this covered with a smaller stone."

"I could not discover any characters on this relic."

"The oblong stone is divided into square compartments, and had the vestige of some sculpture - probably a cross had formerly crowned it; it is, however, certain, that it has been mutilated."

"The ruins of an antique castle are situated about 1 mile from this town."

The village contains a Roman Catholic chapel, two schools, a post-office, a dispensary, a small sessions house, and a constabulary barrack.

HERE was formerly an extensive forest, known by the name of the Bondville wood, consisting chiefly of oak, ash, and fir, and extending over several hundred acres; but it was all cut away during a period in which the estate was under litigation.

The Ulster Canal, connecting loughs Neagh and Erne, passes through the parish.

First published in April, 2021.

Hollymount Visit

The Lakeside Inn, with the old mill in the distance (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

During May, 2021, I visited BALLYDUGAN, a delightful place several miles from Downpatrick, County Down.

Ballydugan is one of those unspoiled spots deep in the countryside, where old barns and disused railway lines abound with ivy; wildlife thrives; and the main feature, beautiful Ballydugan Lake, is the centre of attraction.

It is mentioned briefly in the Topographical Dictionary: 

About two miles from the town is the beautiful lake of Ballydugan ; and near it is Ballydugan House, memorable as the residence of Col. White, who was murdered, and the mansion burnt in the war of 1641.

I have visited this place many times, and usually park at a little carpark beside the lake and adjacent to the inn.

Across the road there is the old mill, a large building now transformed into a hotel or guesthouse.

Carpark beside Ballydugan Lake (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

I'd brought a packed lunch with me, intending to park at the lakeside car-park, though it was closed, so instead I managed to tuck my car into a space outside the park.

The LAKESIDE INN was closed.

It was a glorious sunny day, and one of my plans was to seek the historic Hollymount Demesne.

It's not easy to find. In fact, it doesn't even feature in my old OS one-inch map of South Down, though I knew that it was at Hollymount National Nature Reserve.

While I was walking along the country road in the vicinity, a farmer approached in his tractor, so I flagged him down and inquired about it.

Fortunately he was friendly and helpful, and explained how to get to Hollymount.

Hollymount is an old, overgrown, unspoiled 17th or 18th century demesne; bluebells and wild garlic thrive here, with some very old parkland trees.

Ballydugan Medieval Settlement (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

En route I encountered a lady with her two children, picking wild garlic for the open day at Ballydugan Medieval Settlement, a "living history" Viking village beside Ballydugan Lake.

Eventually I emerged at what I assumed were the remains of the old mansion house, though I now know that I'd encountered the farmyard, which stands a bit north of the house.

Hollymount Farmyard (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

These buildings are dilapidated, ruinous, overgrown and barely discernible from a distance; interesting, nevertheless.

I'll return to Hollymount another day to find and explore what's left of the house.

A view of Hollymount in the road to Downpatrick: A sketch by Mrs Delany, 1745

A view of Hollymount in the road to Downpatrick: A sketch by Mrs Delany, 1745

I do wonder why the demesne was abandoned by the Prices in favour of Saintfield Demesne.

Incidentally, Hollymount House features in J A K Dean's Plight of the Big House in Northern Ireland.

Hollymount Demesne ca 1830 (Click to Enlarge)

After lunch I wandered off in the other direction, towards Ballydugan Cottages at the opposite side of the lake.

The Edgington Windbreaker (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

What a lovely day it was. during the drive home I stopped off at Quoile Countryside Centre for a short walk to Steamboat Quay.

First published in May, 2021.