Ulster: A Journey

Serendipity is "the gift for finding valuable objects of art etc by chance," according to my trusty Nuttall's dictionary.

In this case, it was a modest, second-hand paperback book: Ulster: A Journey Through The Six Counties, by Robin Bryans.

We were staying at a hotel in Puerto Pollensa, Majorca, in 2004.

In the residents' lounge there was a shelf containing magazines and books which other residents weren't taking home with them, and I discovered this wonderful little paperback.

Its origin was the Norfolk County Library, of all places!

It was dated the 10th January, 1992, and stamped "Withdrawn For Sale, 30p."

This isn't  really a guidebook: it's an anecdotal travel book, the author's personal and intimate journey through some exceptionally interesting parts of the Province.

Bryans had a wonderful way with words, to the extent that much of his prose sounds poetic in its composition, if that's not a contradiction in itself.

It was first published in 1964, though this edition was dated 1989.

First published in March, 2010.

BH Memoirs: III

REMINISCENCES OF LIEUTENANT-COLONEL JOHN MATTHEW BLAKISTON-HOUSTON DL (1898-1984), OF BELTRIM CASTLE, COUNTY TYRONE, AND RODDENS, COUNTY DOWN, BORN AT ORANGEFIELD HOUSE, KNOCKBREDA, NEAR BELFAST.

HE SERVED IN THE FIRST AND SECOND WORLD WARS; WAS AIDE-DE-CAMP TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF AUSTRALIA, 1929-30; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY DOWN, 1944; DEPUTY LIEUTENANT OF COUNTY DOWN, 1946; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY TYRONE, 1954.

In March, 1924, I went home on a year’s leave on full pay.

DERMOT KAVANAGH also got a year’s leave.

I’m sure we were the last two officers in the British Army ever to be granted a year’s leave, except for special reasons.

Colonel Geoffrey Lockett had once praised me and said, “If ever you want anything, let me know,” so when the leave-book came round I put down March 1924 to March 1925.

The Colonel, of course, sent for me and asked me for my reasons and I reminded him of his promise.

He signed it, saying, “Of course the Brigadier will turn it down.”

However, it so happened that Mouse Tomkinson had just been appointed to the Brigade a few days before.

He came with one reputation – that he was in the habit of getting more leave than anyone else in the Army.

I suppose he thought he would not like to feel that his first act as Brigadier-General was to turn down two poor fellows leave – so it went through.

My parents were living at Finlaystone, near Glasgow in the winter and at Roddens in the summer.

My brother, George, was working in the Clyde Shipping Company in Glasgow.

I went with my father grouse-shooting and spent part of the winter hunting in County Meath.

Tommy Ainsworth [Sir Thomas Ainsworth Bt] and HOLMPATRICK were joint masters that year.

Ireland was still in an unsettled state.

The Government of Ireland Act had been passed in 1922 but the Free State Government were having trouble with the Republican element and there were frequent clashes between the IRA (Irish Republican Army) and the Free State Army.

I stayed with my uncle, GEORGE FOWLER, at Kells.

The Republicans had painted up on his wall, “FOWLER PREPARE FOR DEATH,” but that did not appear to worry my uncle.

My aunt used to tell an amusing story,

One day a taxi drove up to the National Bank in the small town of Carrickmacross, and three men got out. 

The leader produced a dirty bit of paper and presented it to the Manager. 

Written on it was “These men have been ordered to protect you, IRA.” 

Rumour flew round the town that the IRA had sent some men to protect first. 

The IRA leader replied that his orders were to protect the National Bank but he’d see what he could do to oblige, if the Manager stayed in the Bank and waited after closing hours. 

He left his two assistants in the National Bank and went on up to the Bank of Ireland. 

When he got to the strong room he took over the keys and gave the Manager a gentle push and locked him inside. 

The taxi drove up and collected the swag from both banks and proceeded on its way to Drogheda.

My aunt had another story about an unfortunate gentleman who had his house burned down by the IRA.

The house was a complete ruin but in the fire one wall had taken on a dangerous lean.

He received a letter from the IRA instructing him to take down this dangerous wall forthwith as it was endangering the lives of the people searching for “souvenirs” in the ruins.

In August, 1925, my brother George was accidentally drowned while shooting duck at Finlaystone.

His death was a great blow to me.

First published in January, 2015.  Extracts by kind permission of RP Blakiston-Houston OBE JP DL 

Antrim Castle: 1824

ANTRIM CASTLE, COUNTY ANTRIM, SEAT OF THOMAS HENRY, SECOND VISCOUNT FERRARD, FROM AN ENGRAVING BY JOHN PRESTON NEALE

"Antrim Castle adjoins the town from whence it takes its name; a view up the principal street of which is commanded from the parapet of the adjoining terrace garden, ascended from the Castle yard by a handsome flight of stone steps."

"It is enclosed from the town by a gateway, and stands on a walled terrace, overhanging the river Sixmilewater, which flows into the vast waters of Lough Neagh, within sight of the Castle, at about the distance of a quarter of a mile."

"This castle is among the few found to be preserved in Ireland, of those erected in pursuance of the injunctions of the grant made by JAMES I for the protection of the colonies or plantations then about to be established."

"The building was raised, as appears by an inscription, on a large carved mantel of stone, covering the centre of the principal front, in the year 1613, by Sir Hugh Clotworthy, and has been subsequently altered according to the different tastes of its successive proprietors."

"The front of the Castle is also decorated with the armorial bearing of the family, and those of their alliances, surmounted by the royal arms of England, and a carved head, in relief, of CHARLES I."

"THE suite of rooms is extensive and modern, the entire Castle having undergone a thorough repair in the time of the last Earl of Massereene."

"The exterior towards the Court has been recently restored by the present possessor to the character of the period in which it was originally erected."

"Few places in Ireland command greater power of beauty, or extent of drive."

"Its demesne and deer-park stretch along the shores of Lough Neagh for above two miles, ornamented with fine old timber and copse wood, covering every headland, down to the river edge, with various plantations, calculated to blend in the scenery of as rich and highly cultivated  a county as any to be found in Ireland."

"The view over the lough towards the south is bounded only by the horizon, which towards the west it rests on the distant Tyrone and Derry mountains, and the nearer woods of Shane's Castle, the ancient seat of the Earl O'Neill, whose towers project into the lough itself."

"These two fine domains, indeed, embrace, with their woods and pleasure grounds, the whole of the bay of Antrim, an extent of six or seven miles."

"The gardens are on the same side of the river with the Castle."

"An ancient bridge of six arches, represented in the plate, leading to the park and outgrounds, is overlooked by one of those old mounts, ascended by a winding path, erected in strict accordance with Bacon's notions, being, as he recommends, "some forty feet high."

"THE gate-house, leading from the town of Antrim to the Castle Court, has been also added by the present possessor, and is remarkable for the sympathetic hinges on which the massive gates are opened and closed."

First published in June, 2020.

BH Memoirs: II

REMINISCENCES OF LIEUTENANT-COLONEL JOHN MATTHEW BLAKISTON-HOUSTON DL (1898-1984), OF BELTRIM CASTLE, COUNTY TYRONE, AND RODDENS, COUNTY DOWN, BORN AT ORANGEFIELD HOUSE, KNOCKBREDA, NEAR BELFAST.

HE SERVED IN THE FIRST AND SECOND WORLD WARS; AIDE-DE-CAMP TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVORNOR-GENERAL OF AUSTRALIA, 1929-30; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY DOWN, 1944; DEPUTY LIEUTENANT OF COUNTY DOWN, 1946; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY TYRONE, 1954.

IN 1908, at the age of ten, I went to school for one term at Mourne Grange, near Kilkeel, County Down.

I remember the journey well because we travelled in an Argyll motor car, and a great deal of stopping was necessary to allow the car to cool off on the hills.

Next term I went to Arnold House, Llandullas, North Wales, and stayed there until I went to Eton in September, 1911.

My career at Eton was not a very distinguished one: I got my Lower Boats, and passed most of my trials and made many friends, but I can’t claim that my school-days were the happiest days of my life.

In any case I was only there four years and left in December, 1915, after passing into Sandhurst, rather unexpectedly.

I had been in Army Class from the time I became an “Upper,” and I now realised how very narrow and specialized this Army Class modern school was.

It is only within the last few years that I have read any English Literature.

Of Shakespeare, of Milton, Thackeray, and of other English Classics I knew nothing.

My brother, George, was eighteen months younger than me.

We shared a room together at Bookers’ House.

The winter holidays were spent at Roddens where we used to hunt two days a week with the Ards Harriers.

CAPTAIN DICK KER was Master, and his son David hunted them.

As the Kers lived outside the hunting country my father turned his laundry into a kennels and much of our time was occupied in exercising hounds.

My father took some 42,000 acres of Grouse Shooting at Pettigo, County Donegal, for five years from 1912.

We lived in The Agency, a house in the village of Pettigo.

We were allowed to ask some of our friends from Eton over, so the house was packed from the 12th of August till the end of the summer holidays.

Two parties, each of two grown-ups and a boy shot each day over dogs, and two boats with the remainder of the party fished Lough Derg for brown trout.

It was four miles of mountain road from Pettigo to the Lough.

The Lough is one of the most beautiful in Ireland, about four miles by five, with over a hundred islands.

It is set like a blue gem in the midst of the soft brown or purple of the hills of County Donegal.

With hardly another human habitation to be seen the natural beauty of the landscape is broken by the great mass of churches and hotels clustered together on Station Island.

Here, each year up to 10,000 Roman Catholic pilgrims congregate between 1st July and 15th August to do penance at the St Patrick’s pilgrimage.

 *****

ABOUT 1909 I was invited by the Lady Londonderry of the day who, I think, was Lady-in-Waiting to The Queen, to stand on the balcony at Windsor Castle to witness the landing of the first aeroplane ever to fly across the English Channel, and it landed on Runnymede, driven by Blériot.

I was accompanied by young Bonar Law, another Eton Boy, whose father was then Prime Minister.

After passing into Sandhurst I spent about a month staying in County Meath with my aunt, Mabel Fowler, and hunting with the Meath Hounds.

BRYAN FOWLER, my cousin, who was just my age, had passed into Woolwich at the same time and so we hunted in couples.

General Powell was then Master of the Meaths.

On the days we were not hunting we were shooting snipe with my uncle, George Fowler.

In January, 1916, I went to Sandhurst.

I was only to spend seven months there as I was commissioned into 11th Hussars in August 16th, 1916, a fortnight before my eighteenth birthday.

I enjoyed my seven months at Sandhurst. It was a hard school.

As cavalry cadets we were posted to “K” Company.

Major Lomer commanded the company and John Hinde, 15th Hussars, and Jack Nettlefold was very strict and severe.

My father had given me a polo pony and, instead of keeping him in Pitchell’s livery stable, I took stabling at a “Pub” in Camberley, and looked after ponies for LUMP ALTAMONT (6th Marquess of Sligo), Blandford (9th Duke of Marlborough) and Scabbard Sword, who later on succeeded me as Adjutant of the Cheshire Yeomanry, as well as my own.

It certainly taught me something of the mysteries of Horse-mastership.

We passed out in August, 1916, and I was posted to the 12th Reserve Cavalry Regiment at Warburg Barracks in Aldershot.

Looking back my method of joining up is amusing.

 *****

AT THAT TIME I was very interested in cockfighting and had several cocks at walk in Northern Ireland and Scotland.

I brought two cocks with me to Aldershot.

Most of the time they were kept in large cages in the officers’ quarters in the passage outside my room.

Later, I suppose for sanitary reasons, they were transferred to the miniature range Nissen hut.

On Sunday mornings it was the habit of our commanding officer, Colonel Ronnie Brooke DSO (elder brother of Lord Alanbrooke and uncle of SIR BASIL BROOKE, Prime Minister of Northern Ireland) to carry out a tour of inspection of the Barracks after Church parade.

For the inspection my game cocks had been hidden in front of the target, but just as the Commanding Officer and his staff were leaving, the range of cocks gave a loud “Cock-a-doodle-do”.

The CO had gone out but wondered why his staff were tittering behind him.

I was in Eric Crossley’s Squadron “C” and soon CHARLES MULHOLLAND (later 3rd Lord Dunleath) returned to the Reserve Regiment after being very badly wounded in the early days of the War.

He became 2nd i/c "C" Squadron.

His younger brother, Harry, was also there as a lieutenant and Hotchkiss Gun instructor.

Towards the end of 1916 I conducted a draft out to Rouen.

I remember how cold the weather was.

The ice was so thick on the Seine that we had to have a thick skinned tug to proceed us.

The only person I knew in Rouen was my uncle, Charlie Blakiston-Houston, who was Major in Command of the Ulster Division, RASC.

Uncle Charlie was a well known character wherever he went.

I did not know his address but asked the first Frenchman I met on the Docks.

He immediately replied “Oui, Oui,” and personally conducted me to the suburbs of Rouen where my uncle had his camp.

He was such a character that he had made himself very well know in Rouen.

He was most unorthodox in his methods of dealing with his men and addressed them all either by their Christian names or as “My Dear."

About the middle of 1917, I was sent on draft leave preparatory to joining the 11th Hussars in France, but as I was still under 19 years old, unknown to me my mother wired Charles Mulholland, and I was waylaid and brought back to Aldershot.

About this time an appeal appeared in Regimental Orders for volunteers for the Heavy Branch, Machine Gun Corps, which later became the Tank Corps – I sent my name forward.

Horsed cavalry at this period of the war was not a very satisfactory arm of the service to belong to.

Trench lines and barbed wire entanglements made their employment in their true role virtually impossible and more often than not they were employed dismounted.

In August, 1917, I was seconded and posted to the 13th Battalion of the Tank Corps, and was stationed at Wareham and Bovington Camps in Dorset.

For the next five months we worked very hard forming the Battalion and attending innumerable courses.

At the end of January, 1918, we sailed as a half-trained unit to continue our training near St Pol in the Pas de Calais.

First published in January, 2015.  Extracts by kind permission of RP Blakiston-Houston OBE JP DL

The May Baronetcy

The family of MAY, anciently De May, traces its descent to John de May, who came to England with WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, and, for his services, obtained considerable grants of land in the counties of Kent and Sussex. His descendants were seated for many generations at Kennington, in Kent; and subsequently at Wadhurst, and other places in Sussex.

From William May, second son of Thomas May, of Wadhurst, descended

SIR HUMPHREY MAY (1573-1630), Vice-Chamberlain to JAMES I and Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster; and also

SIR THOMAS MAY, of Mayfield, Sussex, whose eldest son, Thomas May, a celebrated poet, died unmarried, and whose second son,

EDWARD MAY, settled at Mayfield, County Waterford, and married Margaret, daughter of Arthur O'Donnelly, of Castle Caulfield, County Tyrone; the grandson of which marriage,

EDWARD MAY (c1672-1729), of Mayfield, MP for County Waterford, 1715-29, wedded Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress (with her sister, Anne, Countess of Tyrone), of Andrew Richards, of County Kilkenny.

Mr May was succeeded by his son,

JAMES MAY (c1697-c1734), MP for County Waterford, 1725-34, who espoused Lætitia, daughter of William, 1st Viscount Duncannon.

Mr May left, with a daughter, Elizabeth Richards, wife of Thomas Carew, of Ballinamona, and granddaughter of Thomas Carew, of that place, a son and successor,

JAMES MAY (1723-1811), of Mayfield, MP for County Waterford, 1759-97, who was created a baronet in 1763, designated of Mayfield, County Waterford.

Sir James married Ann, daughter of Thomas Moore, of Marlfield, and niece of Stephen, Earl Mount Cashell, and had issue,

JAMES EDWARD, his heir;
HUMPHREY, 3rd Baronet;

Thomas, dsp;

Charles, died unmarried;

GEORGE STEPHEN, 4th Baronet;
Mary Tottenham.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR (JAMES) EDWARD MAY, 2nd Baronet (1751-1814), MP for Belfast, 1801-14, who married firstly, in 1773, Eliza Lind née Bagg, of St George, Holborn, Middlesex; and secondly, ca 1809, Elizabeth, daughter of Francis Lumley, of Passage, County Waterford.

He had issue, two illegitimate daughters and two illegitimate sons,

Stephen Edward;
Edward Sylvester (Rev), Vicar of Belfast, 1809;
Anna, m George, 2nd Marquess of Donegall;
Elizabeth, m Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas Verner.

The eldest son, Sir Stephen Edward May JP DL (1781-1845), of 1, Donegall Place, Belfast, following his father's death in 1814, believing himself to be the rightful successor to his father's baronetcy, styled himself "Sir Stephen May Bt."

Sir Stephen, MP for Belfast, 1814-16, received the honour of Knighthood, in 1816, from Charles, 1st Earl Whitworth, Lord Lieutenant.

Sir Edward, erstwhile Collector of the Revenue of the port of Waterford, was succeeded in that lucrative and important office by his younger brother,

SIR HUMPHREY MAY, 3rd Baronet, of Maypark, High Sheriff of County Waterford, 1798, who wedded, in 1784, Jane, daughter of the Rev James Grueber.

Sir Humphrey dsp 1819 in France, and was succeeded by his brother,

SIR GEORGE STEPHEN MAY, 4th Baronet (1764-1834).

Sir Humphrey had married Jane Grueber in 1784. She survived him; however, it seems, she would not continue to reside at Maypark, hence, in Ramsey’s Waterford Chronicle of 1819, an advertisement appeared that Maypark was to be let on such terms and for such a period as might be agreed upon or the interest would be sold.

The baronetcy expired in 1834 following the decease of Sir George Stephen May, 4th and last Baronet.

*****

In 1795, George, 2nd Marquess of Donegall, married Anna, daughter of Sir Edward, described as "a moneylender who also ran a gaming house". 

He managed to get Lord Donegall - then styled Lord Chichester - released from a debtors' prison in 1795 and offered his daughter Anna in marriage, an obligation which his lordship felt obliged to accept.

The couple came to Belfast in 1802 to escape his debtors and brought the May family with them.

Anna (May), 2nd Marchioness of Donegall, had been under-age at the time of her marriage and should have had the permission of the courts in 1795 but this had not been sought; so, as a consequence, the marriage was declared unlawful. 

Edward Street in Belfast was named after Sir Edward May; as was Great Edward Street, May Street and May's Market.

Sir Edward pioneered the reclamation of land from the edges of Belfast Lough; however, more infamously, he was regarded as the man who desecrated the graves of those buried at St George's graveyard at High Street and Ann Street in order to sell the land for the development of Church Street and Ann Street in Belfast. 

May's Dock in Belfast was also named after Sir (James) Edward May, brother of Lady Donegall.

Sir Edward reclaimed the land to form May's Dock from the original bed of the river and the high water line was where Great Edward Street now continues into Cromac Street.
 

The principal seat of the Mays was once Maypark House in County Waterford, now a nursing home. 

Maypark House was built in 1783-84 and named after Humphrey May, who gave his name to Mayfield (near Portlaw) and was MP for Waterford from 1757-97. 

The house was evidently built around the time that Sir Humphrey married Jane Grueber.

Sir Humphrey died approximately seven years after the death of his father, Sir Edward.

Lady May, after the death of her husband and father-in-law, obviously decided to move out of Maypark.

Wherever Lady May was moving to, she had no use for her furniture.

It is not clear, from research, whether of not Sir Humphrey and Lady May had been living in France at the time of Sir Humphrey’s death.

There is no record of a "Jane May" of Waterford to be found after approximately 1820. 

It would appear that she may have moved away from Waterford after her husband’s death.

It is probable that Lord Waterford bought the place for, in the Waterford Chronicle of 9th June, 1827, there was an advertisement announcing "the sale of Lady May’s furniture of Maypark....”

Maypark is listed as being in the occupancy of George Meara in the Slater’s Directory of 1846.

The property consisted of house, offices and land with a total area over 46 acres.

It was valued at £181.

The house appears on the 1840 Ordnance Survey Map with a farm.

The area down to the river is identified as a rough area, possibly marshland.

Some areas are heavily planted.

In the 1909-10 Thom’s directory a Herbert Gough is listed as resident at Maypark.

The house was converted to a private hospital sometime after 1910 and before 1938.

First published in January, 2011. May arms courtesy of the NLI.

BH Memoirs: I

REMINISCENCES OF LIEUTENANT-COLONEL JOHN MATTHEW BLAKISTON-HOUSTON DL (1898-1984), OF BELTRIM CASTLE, COUNTY TYRONE, AND RODDENS, COUNTY DOWN, BORN AT ORANGEFIELD HOUSE, NEAR BELFAST

HE SERVED IN THE FIRST AND SECOND WORLD WARS; WAS AIDE-DE-CAMP TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF AUSTRALIA, 1929-30; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY DOWN, 1944; DEPUTY LIEUTENANT OF COUNTY DOWN, 1946; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY TYRONE, 1954

I was born on 31st August, 1898, at Orangefield, Belfast.

ORANGEFIELD was then the home my grandfather, John Blakiston-Houston.

He was the father of twelve children.

His wife (my grandmother) was then dead, and about half of his children were married and away.

My aunt Nina, the eldest unmarried daughter, acted as housekeeper and hostess.

Entertaining was done on a large scale and it was not uncommon for twenty people to sit down to dinner.

My father and mother lived then at Charlesfort, Kells, County Meath, in the winter for the hunting, and at Roddens, Ballywalter, County Down, twenty miles from Orangefield by the sea in the summer months.

Roddens House, near Ballyhalbert (historic OS map)

I remember Charlesfort well as we lived there every winter till 1907 when John Watson, the famous master of the Meath Hounds, died.

There must have been stabling for twenty horses in the yard and several friends of my father used to come and stay most winters with their horses, for three weeks or a month at a time.

A regular visitor was my father’s cousin, CHARLIE O'HARA, from County Sligo.

He brought with him a team of small horses, all of which he’d bred himself.

John Hand was the Stud Groom, one of the real old-fashioned sort.

He had a sure cure for every horse ailment.

There were some other attractive characters about Charlesfort: Johnny Fox, the gardener, was a great friend of ours as children.

He used to unlock the door of the little ivy-covered apple house and produce an apple apiece.

The box hedges were a feature of the Charlesfort garden, and one of them nicely trimmed, must have been fifteen feet high.

Another favourite was his wife, Mrs Fox, who looked after the hens and turkeys and who always wore a shawl and a red skirt, as did most of the country women in County Meath in those days.

Wages were not high then: Johnny Fox, the head gardener, got 10/- a week; and one, Willy Gahan, with a wife and seven children, got 7/-.

He lived in a labourer’s cottage for which I expect he had to pay 1/6 a week in rent.

These labourers' cottages usually had half an acre of land.

On this he grew vegetables and probably kept fowl and a coupe of goats which spent most of their time grazing on the sides of the roads.

In many cases these cottages carried “turbury” rights with them.

This gave the occupier permission to cut a bank of turf.

However he must have had a hard struggle.

The biannual move of the family from Roddens to Charlesfort and vice versa was a memorable undertaking.

The horses and polo ponies often travelled the 100 miles by road, stopping at friends' houses for two or three nights en route.

I remember my mother once driving the pony “Puck” up in the Tub or Governess Cart.

We children usually travelled by train to Belfast where we were met by the Orangefield brake [van] and taken to stay the night there.

For the remaining twenty miles to Roddens one of the farm floats from Orangefield was usually borrowed for the luggage, while a Public Long Car, drawn by two horses, was hired to covey the servants, Nanny and us children, accompanied by “Joker” the goat, and “Cooky” the rough-haired fox terrier.

Bradshaw's Brae was a severe tax on the horses and most of the party were expected to dismount to lighten the load.

From Roddens my father used to drive up to play polo at Orangefield twice a week.

He usually went the whole twenty miles by road in a dog-cart and drove back at night.

The polo ponies were kept at Orangefield and the polo ground was on my grandfather’s property.

My father was very fond of driving and was a very good “whip” with a four-in-hand.

Two coaches were kept at Orangefield and nearly every spring a coaching tour was arranged.

The party consisted of the members of the family, my aunts, and uncles, and their friends.

One year they visited the Highlands of Scotland and another they toured County Kerry and County Limerick.

Between times the coach was only taken out to go to point-to-point races and I remember how proud I was once, when I was older, being allowed to “handle the ribbons” on the way to Comber Races.

At Roddens, we children used to play on the farm and on the shore, and occasionally go fishing on the sea or on the Strangford Lough.

We also spent a good deal of time riding with my father.

First published in January, 2017.  Extracts by kind permission of RP Blakiston-Houston OBE JP DL

Balrath Bury House

THE NICHOLSONS WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY MEATH, WITH 7,693 ACRES

This family came originally from Yorkshire.

GILBART NICHOLSON, of Bare and Poulton, Lyndall, in Lonsdale, and of Baton and Easterton, Westmorland, married Grace, daughter and co-heir of Gyles Curwen, of Poulton Hall, and had issue,

FRANCIS, dvp leaving a son, HUMPHRY;
Giles;
Grace.

Mr Nicholson died in 1605, and was succeeded by his grandson,

HUMPHRY NICHOLSON, who was father of

GILBART NICHOLSON (1620-1709), formerly of Poulton, Lancashire, and of the city of Dublin, Lieutenant in the royal army before 1649, and one of the Forty-nine Officers, whose arrears of pay were paid up after the Restoration, "for service done by them to His Majesty, or to his royal father, as commissioners in the wars of Ireland, before the 5th day of June, 1649." 

By the Act of Settlement Mr Nicholson received grants of land in County Monaghan, which he sold, and bought Balrath Bury in 1669.

He afterwards resided in Dublin.

Mr Nicholson and his wife Mary, daughter of Sir Thomas Worsopp, Knight, are buried in the crypt of Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin, and on their tombstone appear the arms and crest still used by the family.

The issue of the marriage were,

Christopher;
THOMAS, of whom presently;
John.

The second, but eldest surviving son,

THOMAS NICHOLSON, of Balrath Bury, born in 1662, inherited Balrath Bury in 1709.

In 1692, he was a commissioner for County Meath, during the reign of WILLIAM & MARY, and High Sheriff, 1704.

Mr Nicholson married firstly, in 1691, Mary, daughter of John Beauchamp, and had, with other issue, a daughter, Anne, whose daughter, Margaret, was second wife of Sir Richard Steele Bt, of Hampstead.

He wedded secondly, in 1700, Elizabeth, daughter and co-heir of John Wood, of Garclony, and had issue,

CHRISTOPHER, his heir;
John;
Thomas;
Gilbert.

Mr Nicholson espoused thirdly, Rose, widow of Simeon Pepper, of Ballygarth, by whom he had no issue.

The eldest son,

CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON, of Balrath Bury, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1735, espoused firstly, in 1723, Elinor, only daughter of Simeon Pepper, of Ballygarth, by Rose his wife, daughter of the Hon Oliver Lambart, of Plainstown, and granddaughter of Charles, 1st Earl of Cavan, and had issue,

JOHN, his heir;
Thomas;
George;
Christopher;
Hampden;
Rose; Christian; Emilia.

He wedded secondly, in 1751, Mary, daughter of Oliver Lambart, of Plainstown, by whom he had no issue.

His eldest son,

JOHN NICHOLSON (1724-82), of Balrath Bury, Captain, Coldstream Guards, wedded, in 1766, Anna Maria, daughter of Sir Samuel Armytage Bt, of Kirklees, Yorkshire, widow of Thomas Carter, of Shaen, and had issue,

CHRISTOPHER ARMYTAGE, his heir;
John.

He was succeeded by his elder son,

CHRISTOPHER ARMYTAGE NICHOLSON JP DL (1768-1849), of Balrath Bury, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1791, who married firstly, in 1796, Catharine, daughter of the Most Rev William Newcombe, Lord Archbishop of Armagh, by Anna Maria his wife, daughter and co-heir of Edward Smyth, of Callow Hill, County Fermanagh, second son of the Ven. James Smyth, Archdeacon of Meath, and had issue,

JOHN ARMYTAGE, his heir;
Christopher Hampden;
William (Rev);
Gilbert Thomas, JP;
Anna Maria.

He wedded secondly, in 1826, Anna, daughter of George Lenox-Conyngham, of Springhill, County Londonderry, by Olivia his wife, daughter of William Irvine, of Castle Irvine, County Fermanagh, and had issue,

Armytage Lenox;
Olivia; Sophia Elizabeth.

Mr Nicholson was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN ARMYTAGE NICHOLSON JP DL (1798-1872), of Balrath Bury, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1827, who married, in 1824, Elizabeth Rebecca, daughter of the Rt Rev and Rt Hon Nathaniel Alexander, Lord Bishop of Meath (nephew of James, 1st Earl of Caledon), by Anne his wife, daughter and heir of the Rt Hon Sir Richard Jackson, of Forkhill, by Anne his wife, sister of John, 1st Viscount O'Neill, and had issue,

CHRISTOPHER ARMYTAGE, his heir;
Nathaniel Alexander;
John Hampden (Rev);
William Newcome;
Gilbert de Poulton;
Katharine; Anne.

Mr Nicholson was succeeded by his eldest son,

CHRISTOPHER ARMYTAGE NICHOLSON JP DL (1825-87), of Balrath Bury, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1856, who espoused, in 1858, Frances Augusta, eldest daughter of the Hon Augustus Henry MacDonald Moreton, and had issue,

GILBERT MORETON, died unmarried;
JOHN HAMPDEN, succeeded his brother;
Mary Jane; Elizabeth Katharine; Emilia Olivia.

The only surviving son,

JOHN HAMPDEN NICHOLSON JP (1871-1935), of Balrath Bury, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1895, married, in 1894, Florence Isabel, third daughter of Thomas Rothwell, of Rockfield, Kells, and had issue,

CHRISTOPHER HAMPDEN;
John Armytage;
Joyce Frances.

His elder son,

CAPTAIN CHRISTOPHER HAMPDEN NICHOLSON (1903-), of Balrath Bury, married, in 1928, Stephanie Adelaide Edwards, and had issue,

JOHN WARREN, his heir;
Virginia Rose.

His only son,

JOHN WARREN NICHOLSON, born in 1931, inherited Balrath House in the 1960s.

Photo credit: New York Social Diary

BALRATH BURY HOUSE, near Kells, County Meath, is a two-storey, pedimented, 18th century house.

It has seven bays with a curved bow at either end of the front.

Three more bays were added to the right; and seven more bays with another pediment plus two further bays to the left side.

Photo credit: New York Social Diary

Today, the front extends to nineteen bays and two bows.

The mansion suffered damage during the 2nd World War, having been used by the army.

It was subsequently reduced in size, in 1942, to the original block.

Balrath Bury is now in the American-Colonial style.

The principal rooms are on either side of a large hall, with a bifurcating staircase.

There is a long, Georgian, pedimented stable block.

It is thought that the most recent owners have been Frank and Carol Mallon.

First published in June, 2013.

BH Memoirs: Prologue

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL JOHN MATTHEW BLAKISTON-HOUSTON DL (1898-1984), OF BELTRIM CASTLE, COUNTY TYRONE, AND RODDENS, COUNTY DOWN, WAS BORN AT ORANGEFIELD HOUSE, KNOCKBREDA, NEAR BELFAST.

 J M BLAKISTON-HOUSTON SERVED IN THE FIRST AND SECOND WORLD WARS; WAS AIDE-DE-CAMP TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF AUSTRALIA, 1929-30; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY DOWN, 1944; DEPUTY LIEUTENANT OF COUNTY DOWN, 1946; HIGH SHERIFF OF COUNTY TYRONE, 1954

Preface

To my thirteen grandchildren:

I wrote these notes on my life, as I feel certain you and your generation could not possibly realise how our world has changed in the last 80 years.

It must be incredible to you to realise that I actually witnessed the arrival of the first aeroplane ever to fly across the English Channel.

Two world wars in my lifetime have speeded up the march of scientific inventions in all directions, many of them developed during these wars with no thoughts of the cost, to help defeat the enemy.

With inter-space travel and other inventions, we do not know what the future holds for us.

The development of Nuclear energy seems a serious threat.

If a third world country builds a nuclear plant, it will be possible for that country to be able to produce Plutonium, and from it, to make nuclear weapons.

It is too alarming.

In my earlier days the population of the world was controlled by starvation and disease, and it seemed to be effective; but Doctors and Health control have largely eliminated disease epidemics and improved Agricultural methods, resulting in the supply of more food and consequently reduced starvation.

But when I say: “Thy Kingdom come, Thy will be done, on earth as it is in Heaven,” I really do believe our prayers are answered, and that the Almighty really does control our destiny, and that He will continue to do so.

GRANDFATHER

*****

  

Forward

I have jaundice and the doctors will not let me go out so I will try to write a story of my life to relieve the boredom.

They say anyone can write his own life story but my memory is not good for names and places.

My diaries and photograph albums were all destroyed in the fire at Roddens [County Down] in 1939.

Before I forget everything I would like to jot down what I can remember for the benefit of my children because like Adam Lindsay Gordon –

I’ve had may share of pastime

And I’ve done my share of toil

And life is short, the longest life a span.

I care not now to tarry for the corn or for the oil

Or for the wine that maketh glad the heart of Man.

For deeds undone and gifts misspent and resolutions vain

‘Tis somewhat late to worry; this I know

I’d live the same life over if I had to live again

But the chances are I go where most men go…

JMBH
Beltrim, 1947

First published in January, 2015.  Extracts by kind permission of R P Blakiston-Houston OBE JP DL.

Drumnasole House

THE TURNLYS OWNED 6,503 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ANTRIM

The Turnlys of Drumnasole descend from an scion of the old Norman family of Turnley, who accompanied Cromwell to Ireland, and settled in that country. The English line continued, and was represented by JOSEPH TURNLEY JP DL, of London, Master of Merchant Taylors Company, and Deputy Governor of the Honourable the Irish Society, 1856.

 An immediate ancestor of the Drumnasole family held lands in County Down; but his widow, who had control of the property, married for her second husband a Mr Wilson, and to her children by him she devised Mr Turnly's estate.

FRANCIS TURNLY JP (1732-1801), of Newtownards, County Down, one of the principal merchants of Belfast, married, in 1760, Catherine Black, of Bordeaux, France, and had issue with four daughters, three sons,

JOHN (1764-1841), of Rockport House; dsp;
FRANCIS, of whom presently;
Alexander.

The second son,

FRANCIS TURNLY (c1765-1845), of Drumnasole, County Antrim, and RICHMOND LODGE, County Down, High Sheriff of County Down, 1806, County Antrim, 1824, wedded, in 1804, Dorothea Emilia, daughter of John Rochfort, of Clogrennane, County Carlow, and granddaughter of Robert Burgh, of Birt, and had issue,

John, died in infancy;
Francis, died unmarried, 1820;
Robert Alexander (1805-85), of Drumnasole, died unmarried;
Joseph, died unmarried;
JOHN, of whom presently;
Charles Horace, d 1885;
Dorothea Anna, d 1885;
Catherine, d 1906.

Mr Turnly, born at RICHMOND LODGE, spent his early life in China, and obtained a high position there, realizing a considerable fortune, viz. £70,000 (£5 million today) with the East India Company.

The Turnlys were prominent merchants during the 17th and 18th centuries, involved with multifarious trading enterprises in and around Belfast.

Francis Turnly and Narcissus Batt imported alcoholic products from Holland and the Channel Islands.

They became business partners, running a brewery at one time, probably supplying the publicans of the local area.

The fifth son,

JOHN TURNLY JP DL (1818-1909), of Drumnasole, wedded, in 1850, Charlotte Emily, daughter of the Rt Hon Edward Litton QC, Master in Chancery in Ireland, and had issue,

FRANCIS JOHN SEYMOUR, of whom presently;
John Edward Litton Alexander, b 1869;
Sophia Dorothea; Dorothea Vescina; Charlotte Augusta Anne;
Flora Eugenie; Catherine Beatrice; Nina Rochfort; Gertrude; Hilda.

The eldest son,

FRANCIS JOHN SEYMOUR TURNLY JP (1862-1934), of Drumnasole, married, in 1896, Hessie Metcalfe McNeill, daughter of Charles Higginson, of Springmount, County Antrim, and had issue,

John Francis, 1898-1918, killed in action;
ARCHIBALD GORDON EDWARD, of whom we treat;
Mary Dorothea Rochfort, b 1900.

Mr Turnly's only surviving son,

MAJOR ARCHIBALD GORDON EDWARD TURNLY DL (1902-), High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1949, wedded, in 1933, Mary Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Alexander Young, of Lisvarna, Ballycastle, County Antrim, and had issue,

JOHN FRANCIS CECIL TURNLY, a local politician and activist, who was murdered in 1980.

DRUMNASOLE HOUSE, near Garron Point, County Antrim, is a country house of ca 1810, described in 1845 as "a most romantic and sheltered site at the base of the perpendicular hills".

Building began before 1819 and was finished ca 1840.

It was built near the site of an earlier house of the same name which had been occupied in the 1760s by the Donaldson family; and in the 1780s by Francis Shaw, who sold the estate to Francis Turnly in 1808.

Turnly had amassed a considerable amount of money while in China in the 1790s, and following his return to Ulster in 1801, he bought two estates, one at Drumnasole and another at Cushendall.

To facilitate his frequent journeys between the two, he cut first the Red Arch near Waterfoot in 1817, and then the Split Rock, known locally as Turnly's Cut, near Garron Point in 1822, thus creating a predecessor of the present coast road.

Turnly also erected the building in Cushendall known as Turnly's Tower.

Elsewhere in the Drumnasole estate Turnly built a schoolhouse ca 1820, and a descendant built a gate lodge about 1860.

Drumnasole House is built of basalt from the hill behind, of two storeys over a basement.

The entrance front has a breakfront centre with windows flanked by two narrower windows above.

A fan-lighted doorway is under a shallow porch of four engaged Doric columns below, one bay on either side. The side elevation comprises five bays.

The long hall with a plasterwork ceiling; the stairwell lit by a dome.

The gate-lodge is at the Antrim coast road entrance.

According to newspaper reports on the 22nd May, 1922, Drumnasole House was burnt (the extent of the damage, however, is unclear).

Photo Credit © Rev John McConnell Auld

Richmond Lodge, Knocknagoney, County Down, another property of the Turnlys, was eventually acquired by the Dunville family, who moved there in 1845.

Plans showed a long drive-way leading to the house and extensive grounds, substantial enough for Captain R L (Bobby) Dunville to establish a private zoo there during the 1920s.

First published in December, 2010.

Franklin Maxims: XI

TRICKS AND TREACHERY ARE THE PRACTICE OF FOOLS, THAT HAVE NOT WIT ENOUGH TO BE HONEST

First published in June, 2020.

1st Earl of Belmore

Lineage of Corry

JOHN CORRY, former provost of Dumfries in Scotland, settled, in 1639, at Tullynagardy, in the Ards, County Down.

The Corrys were probably well-known in Newtownards during the 17th and 18th centuries: Another John Corry (1771-1851), a farmer, married Susan White. They farmed at Concord Farm, Tullynagardy, built about 1800, but beside ruins ca 300 years old.

Later in life he established a timber business in Belfast called Corry & Montgomery, in 1814, and it was the foundation of the James P Corry & Company in 1814. John moved to Ballyalton House, beneath Scrabo Hill, after he gave the Tullynagardy farm to his daughter Mary, born in 1794. They called it Concord Farm. John Corry and his wife Susan had eight children.

Yet another branch established the Corry's Star Shipping line. They owned Scrabo Quarries and helped to build early Belfast. One of their ships was named the Jane Porter. Robert Corry is remembered as having introduced Scrabo Stone to Ireland as a building material.

He started the firm originally as building contractors and became a great timber merchant; and he founded a major shipping line. 

The original John Corry was appointed a freeman of Belfast in 1654.

Corry spent only a brief period in Belfast and Lisburn before purchasing lands in County Fermanagh.

Corry thrived and, in 1646, bought the Coole estate from Roger Atkinson for £860.

Its extent was about 4,576 acres.

He married Blanch Johnston and had a son,

COLONEL JAMES CORRY (1634-1718), of Castle Coole, MP for Fermanagh, 1692-1718, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1671, and County Monaghan, 1677, who married firstly, in 1663, Sarah, daughter of Oliver Anketell, of Anketell Grove, County Monaghan, and had, with other issue,

JOHN, of whom presently.

He wedded secondly, 1683, Lucy, daughter of Henry Mervyn, of Trillick, without further issue.

Colonel Corry was succeeded by his only son,

COLONEL JOHN CORRY (1667-1726), of Castle Coole, MP for Enniskillen, 1711-13, County Fermanagh, 1719-26, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1711, who espoused, in 1701-2, Sarah, third daughter and co-heir of William Leslie, of Prospect, County Antrim, and had issue,

LESLIE, of Castle Coole;

Martha, m Captain Edmund Leslie;

SARAH, m Galbraith Lowry; mother of Armar, 1st Earl of Belmore;

Mary; Elizabeth.

Lineage of Lowry

JAMES LOWRY or LAURIE (who is said to have been of the family of Laurie of Maxwelton), moved from Scotland to Ulster during the 17th century, settled at Ballymagorry, County Tyrone, before 1641, and died intestate 1665.

He was succeeded by his son,

JOHN LOWRY (1609-89), of Aghenis, County Tyrone, who married firstly, Mary, daughter of James Buchanan, and by her had, with other issue,

ROBERT, of whom presently.

He wedded secondly, Jane, daughter of William Hamilton, of Ballyfatten, and by her had further issue.

He was present with his second wife at the siege of Derry, where he died in 1689.

His eldest son,

ROBERT LOWRY, of Aghenis, one of the Commissioners for the counties of Armagh and Tyrone, 1698, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1707-8 and 1719, espoused Anna, daughter of the Rev John Sinclair, of Holyhill, County Tyrone, by Anna Galbraith, and died in 1729, having had issue,

Robert, dsp;
GALBRAITH;
James (Rev), founded the branch seated at Pomeroy House.

Robert Lowry (Image: National Trust, Castle Coole)

The second son and eventual heir,


GALBRAITH LOWRY-CORRY (1706-69), of Aghenis, MP for County Tyrone, 1748-68, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1733, and County Monaghan, 1743.

He assumed, 1764, on the death of his sister-in-law Martha, wife of Edmund Leslie-Corry MP, the additional surname and arms of CORRY.

Galbraith Lowry-Corry MP (Image: The National Trust)

He wedded, in 1733, Sarah, second daughter and eventual co-heir of Colonel John Corry MP, of Castle Coole, and had issue,

ARMAR, his successor;
Anne, m William, 1st Earl of Enniskillen.

Mr Lowry-Corry was succeeded by his son,

ARMAR LOWRY-CORRY (1740-1802), MP for County Tyrone, 1768-81, who assumed the additional surname and arms of CORRY.

Mr Lowry-Corry was elevated to the peerage, in 1781, in the dignity of Baron Belmore, of Castle Coole, County Fermanagh.

1st Earl of Belmore (Image: the National Trust)

His lordship was advanced to a viscountcy, in 1789, as Viscount Belmore; and further advanced, in 1797, to the dignity of an earldom, as EARL OF BELMORE.

He espoused, in 1772, the Lady Margaret Butler, eldest daughter of Somerset, 1st Earl of Carrick, by whom he had an only surviving child,

SOMERSET, styled Viscount Corry.

His lordship married secondly, in 1780, Harriet, eldest daughter and co-heir of John, 2nd Earl of Buckinghamshire, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, by whom he had an only daughter, Louisa Mary Anne, who wedded, in 1804, George, 6th Earl of Sandwich.

He married thirdly, in 1794, Mary Anne, daughter of Sir John Caldwell Bt, but by her had no issue.

His lordship was succeeded by his son and heir,

SOMERSET, 2nd Earl (1774-1841), MP for County Tyrone, 1797-1800, Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief of Jamaica, 1828-32, who wedded, in 1800, the Lady Juliana Butler, daughter of Henry, 2nd Earl of Carrick, and had issue,

ARMAR, his successor;
Henry Thomas;
Sarah.

2nd Earl of Belmore (Image: the National Trust)

His lordship was succeeded by his elder son,

ARMAR, 3rd Earl (1801-45), High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1832, who espoused, in 1834, Emily Louise, daughter of William Shepherd, and had issue,

SOMERSET RICHARD, his successor;
Armar, grandfather of 7th Earl;
Frederick Cecil George;
Henry William.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

SOMERSET RICHARD, 4th Earl (1835-1913), GCMG PC JP, Governor of New South Wales, 1868-72, who married, in 1861, Anne Elizabeth Honoria, daughter of Captain John Neilson Gladstone, and had issue,

ARMAR, his successor;
CECIL, 6th Earl;
Ernest;
Theresa; Florence; Madeline; Mary; Winifred; Edith; Violet; Margaret; Dorothy; Kathleen.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

ARMAR, 5th Earl (1870-1948), JP DL, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1901, Captain, Inniskilling Fusiliers, who died unmarried, and was succeeded by his brother,

CECIL, 6th Earl (1873-1949), JP DL, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1916, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1922, who died unmarried, and was succeeded by his cousin,

GALBRAITH ARMAR, 7th Earl (1913-60), JP DL, Major, Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, who married, in 1939, Gloria Anthea, daughter of Herbert Bryant Harker, and had issue,

JOHN ARMAR, his successor;
Anthea Geraldine (the Lady Anthea Forde);
Sarah Lilian.

His lordship was succeeded by his only son,

JOHN, 8th and present Earl (1951-), of the Garden House, Castle Coole, who married, in 1984, the Lady Mary Jane Meade, daughter of John, 6th Earl of Clanwilliam, and has issue,

JOHN ARMAR GALBRAITH, styled Viscount Corry;
Montagu Gilford George;
Martha Catherine.

I have written an article about the Lowrys of Pomeroy here.

As 1st Earl of Belmore, Armar Lowry-Corry's three names represented the three components of his future inheritance: Armar, the valuable church-lands in Fermanagh; Lowry, his paternal estate in Tyrone; and Corry, the remainder of his Fermanagh estate and his country seat.

Belmore Mountain - or Mount Belmore - is a hill in west County Fermanagh.

 I've written about the 8th and present Earl.

In 1852 the Fermanagh estate amounted to 7,140 acres in addition to the 14,900 acres of church-land leased from the Lord Bishop of Clogher; while the Tyrone lands comprised 41,448 acres.

The Belmore estates also encompassed counties Monaghan, Longford, Armagh and Dublin. This amounted, in all, to 72,715 acres.

In 1789 the gross rentals were as follows: Fermanagh church-lands £2,700; Fermanagh estate £1,400; Longford estate plus miscellaneous small properties £1,565; and Tyrone estate £7,130: giving a total rental of £12,795. By 1800 this had increased to £16,645.

The income generated by the estates allowed Castle Coole to be constructed at a cost of £57,000 in 1798, equivalent to approximately £20 million today.

The Belmores were one of the most powerful and influential landed families of their time.

Apart from their County Fermanagh seat, the palatial Castle Coole, the Belmores had a London house at 56 Eaton Place.

The family today live at the Garden House in the grounds of Castle Coole.

First published in December, 2009.  Belmore arms courtesy of the NLI.