The Plain Loaf

I happened to be entering a major supermarket one morning when I was accosted by Hazel, a reader of the blog, from Portaferry, County Down.

Hazel was quite effusive about my alter ego, Lord Belmont, reminding me of past articles including the one about Irwin's Nutty Krust high-fibre wholemeal plain loaf, which was made until March, 2020.

Mark Thompson the wrapper, in fact.

Here was a loaf of bread which was a perennial favourite of mine: Irwin’s Nutty Krust high-fibre plain loaf.

It toasted very well indeed.

Some batches had a tendency occasionally to be slightly misshapen upon purchase, which necessitated trimming the edges a little for insertion into the toaster.

No matter.

The lucky birds used to get the crumbs.

The standard white Nutty Krust loaf remains on the shelves and continues to be popular.

THE PLAIN LOAF  is a traditional Ulster-Scots style of loaf.

It has a dark, well-fired crust on the top and bottom of the bread.

There is no crust on the sides due to the unbaked loaves being stuck together in batches, baked together then torn into individual loaves afterwards.

This style of bread does not fit well in most modern toasters due to the greater height of the loaf.

This was once the more widely available style of loaf in comparison to the now more common pan loaf.

Irwin's bakery is based in Portadown, County Armagh.

First published in November, 2012.

Something Fishy

The trusty pushbike has been well utilized during this pandemic. You've likely seen it in a few articles I've written.

I purchased it about twenty-two years ago, at Halford's, and it's a fairly sturdy urban kind of bike.

This morning I recalled that Edward Murray of Something Fishy, a fishmonger from Portavogie, has a mobile seafood stall at Comber Road, Dundonald, on Wednesday mornings.

I think they also usually have a stall at St George's Market in Belfast.

This morning, however, I mounted the two-wheeler and cycled from Belmont GHQ to Dundonald, a journey of three miles perhaps.

Enid Bennett, whose husband and sons ran a hardware shop in Comber, used to inquire if a merchant was easy to pay - "are they easy to pay?"

Something Fishy is easy to pay. Just remember to bring cash with you. I was prepared, and I'd brought my wallet with a few banknotes in it.

I fancy breaded cod tonight, so I bought a good piece of that, and a portion of their battered scampi.

The piece of cod was a fiver; the scampi, £2.80.

Holohan's & QFT

Click to Enlarge

The drive to University Square was, thank goodness, uneventful last night, unlike Christmas Eve, when somebody slammed into the back of my car as I was en route to the annual carol service at Belfast Cathedral.

I managed to find a space about half-way along the Square, the finest mid-Victorian terrace in the city of Belfast.

A number of surgeons and physicians had their consulting-rooms here about fifty years ago.

University Square now belongs to Queen's University, and the Queen's Film Theatre (QFT) is located at number 20.

As it transpires, it was quite prudent to purchase a ticket for The Lighthouse online, because a notice-board stated that they were sold out.

Holohan's Pantry, February, 2020

Having parked, I walked towards University Road, crossed to the other side, and made a bee-line for Holohan's Pantry restaurant at number 43.

I'm wondering if Holohan's is developing this entire terrace, which dates from ca 1870.

It was known as Prospect Terrace.

This was my first visit to Holohan's, so I was looking forward to it.

I wasn't disappointed.

This is a small restaurant, quite narrow in width, though it stretches back a fair distance.

I was early, so it was still quiet when I arrived.

Calvin Holohan greeted me himself and showed me to a little table tucked away nicely at the back.

It formed part of the banquette seating which surrounds two of the walls.

My first impression of it all is good: comfortable seating, abundant cushions, some wooden panelling, distinctive paintings and so on.

The menu is clear, straightforward and concise, too.

It's not too large, to its credit, and has a balanced menu comprising the best of local produce.

I imagine that, if there is a signature dish, it has to be the Boxty, a traditional potato pancake.

Before I ordered Calvin told me a bit about his career and times in Dublin and County Mayo; and his schooldays at Kylemore Abbey.

The first course arrived, I suppose, within five to ten minutes.

This was the Portavogie prawns with coleslaw and and alioli.

The little prawns were lightly battered in, perhaps a sort of tempura manner, sitting on top of the salad.

Everything was light and delicious.

The alioli was lightly flavoured with garlic.

Not long afterwards the main course arrived: the Holohan's Pan Boxty, which was filled with large chunks of succulent smoked haddock and salmon in a rich sauce.

It came with seasonal vegetables, one of which looked like curly parsley.

Was it kale?

Seafood Boxty

Nevertheless, it was all delicious and I cleaned my plate, as it were.

The Boxty, by the way, is reminiscent of a crêpe, except that it's made of potato.

If you like potato bread or farls, you'll enjoy it.

Unfortunately I hadn't enough room for a full pudding, so decided to settle up and leave.

I'll certainly be back to Holohan's, as I told Calvin, a great and worthy host, and the charming staff.

*****

THE QFT is a mere hop, skip and jump from Holohan's, though I had a bit of time to kill so I ventured into the main bar of Duke's Hotel, called The Practitioner.

The Lighthouse began at ten past eight, so, having had a coffee, I found a seat and made myself comfortable.

The Lighthouse is not a conventional film.

For a start, it's made in black-and-white, and in the old 'box' style as opposed to wide-screen.

The first impression was that it could have been made in another era, though of course the sound and picture quality, and special effects were state-of-the-art.

This movie has been described as a psychological horror film.

It's brutal, and the characters (a cast of two) are coarse and vulgar, particularly the head keeper, the self-righteous Thomas Wake, who farts, bombasts, and bullies his subordinate (Ephraim Winslow).

These were powerful performances by Robert Pattinson (Ephraim) and Willem Dafoe (Thomas).

The theme is essentially about the relationship between the two, and the circumstances which led to their madness and destruction.

Much has already been written about the film, so I shan't elaborate any further.

I enjoyed it, though wouldn't advise Auntie Nellie to go, as it were.

It's definitely not for those of a sensitive or nervous disposition.

Portballintrae Visit

Seaport Lodge, September, 2019

Earlier in the week I spent several days in the seaside resort of Portballintrae, County Antrim.

This coastal village, near Bushmills, has always been popular, with its delightful sandy bays, Bushfoot Strand, the little harbour, and its general location on the Causeway Coast.

We used to spend weekends here at the Beach Hotel with friends.

Alas, that hotel was demolished many years ago and has been replaced with modern apartments.

The Bayview Hotel, however, remains; not the original building, which was also demolished ages ago.

I spent two agreeable evenings in the lounge bar of the Bayview, contented with my iPad and headphones.

Catch of the Day at the Bayview Hotel

On the first evening I had a bar meal comprising a blue cheese and beetroot salad, followed by the "Catch of the Day": smoked cod, mashed potato, spinach, surrounded by a creamy sauce.

This food was delicious.

Thereafter I removed to a banquette-style seat near the front door and Reception.

I have acquired a pair of state-of-the-art noise-cancelling headphones, Bluetooth (wireless), which cut out virtually all outside noise except whatever you're listening to on the iPad or other device.

Quite remarkable technology.

The next morning I paid a brief visit to Coleraine, one of my favourite towns.

On the way home, I made a small detour to Bushmills Garden Centre, a few miles outside the village itself.

For some inexplicable reason I've developed an interest in gardening, albeit on a modest scale.

I was on the look-out for a plant that likes dry conditions and the garden centre was promoting Sedums.

I'm apprised that this variety thrives in sunshine and doesn't mind dry conditions, so a spot between two thirsty trees in the border ought to satiate it.

I chose a lovely Sedum Spectabile "Brilliant".

When I purchased it there was a bee eating the nectar, adhering to it like a magnet.

It refused to budge (lest it had discovered the irresistible Belmont bouquet), so some gentle persuasion was required, viz. some of the Belmont blowing.

*

After breakfast one morning I strolled the short distance to Seaport Lodge, once the maritime residence of the Leslies.

Seaport Lodge commands one of the finest prospects in Portballintrae, with its little private harbour.

Unfortunately it has lain derelict for many years, though the owner is finally restoring it as I write.

Seafood Thermidor

The next evening I motored into Portrush, past the celebrated Royal Portrush Golf Club, to the harbour, where I had the Seafood Thermidor at Ramore Wine Bar.

I rather like the Ramore complex, which has several different bars and restaurants.

Just do not expect the conventional type of restaurant where you can reserve a table in advance, order at the table, and await service.

At Ramore wine bar you are shown to a clearly numbered table, peruse the menu, and walk up to the bar counter where they ask for your number, take your order, and you settle the account there and then.

This unconventional system works very well for Ramore and I find it perfectly acceptable.

During my break in Portballintrae the weather was mostly sunny, dry and quite warm, something I took full advantage of.

Perma-tan Belmont.

*

THE French Rooms is a charming restaurant in the centre of Bushmills, just along the street from the Inn.

Their opening hours vary, and at the time of writing dinner is only served on Friday and Saturday evenings; so I was fortunate to get my favourite (and lucky) Table Eight.

The last time I was seated at Table Eight an unknown American couple paid for my meal (unknown to me, because they had paid for it and departed some time before I'd finished my meal).

For this happy reason Mrs Bolton recognized me instantly and greeted my like an old pal.

Perhaps they ought to re-name Table Eight "Lord Belmont's Table".

For dinner I had the goat's cheese, served in a little, tied paper parcel on a wooden platter, with home-made chutney, lemongrass-infused olive oil, and rustic bread.

The main course consisted of sea-bass, garlic cubed fries, and beetroot gratin.

Needless to say, it was all delicious and superb; beautifully presented, too.

After dinner I repaired to the Bushmills Inn, ordered a beverage, and settled down at a small table with the iPad and headphones.

The next morning it was time to pack up, tidy up, and motor back home to the Belmont GHQ.

The Krazi Baker

The Ulster Fry is, to my mind, one of our most celebrated staples, renowned throughout the civilized world and long associated with our Province.

All right, perhaps there is a modicum (!) of hyperbole there, though why not?

We pride ourselves on the hearty Ulster Fry.

The Mad Hatter cafeteria in Enniskillen, County Fermanagh, made a very good one.

My late father did not cook much at all, though, when he did stand over the old stove at my uncle's cottage in the Mourne Mountains, his speciality was the Ulster Fry.

Potato farls, soda farls, eggs, sausages, rashers were all essential ingredients.

Sometimes wild mushrooms were picked from the adjacent fields beside the little whitewashed cottage, which stood at Glassdrumman, close to Spence's River.

My uncle adored the Mourne Mountains; in fact, when he was a young man (he was 18 in 1946)  he cycled from Belfast to the cottage he rented from the Newells at weekends.

We knew the Newells, who lived at their homestead further down the lane, not far from the main road to Annalong.

Jack was a strong character, who bellowed at friends and strangers.

My uncle purchased his own cottage at the other side of Spence's River about 1978.

HAVING been in foreign climes for awhile, I fancy the said Ulster Fry; and who should come to mind?

None other than that celebrated County Down artisan baker himself, Mark Douglas, better known as the Krazi Baker.

The Krazi Baker has a stall at Newtownards market on Saturdays from at least 6am.

Mark told me, however, that they are there, baking those most excellent farls, scones, brioche rolls etc from four-fifteen!

Mark has a terrific website which tells his story to a greater extent than I need to elaborate on.

At the moment Ards market is the nearest place for Belfast customers, though I think he runs occasional stalls at other venues.

S D Bell's

S D Bell's Original Premises, Knock, Belfast

I met my Aunt M for tea this morning at that venerable Belfast institution, S D Bell & Company, purveyors of finest tea and coffee.

They extended their premises about five years ago to include the remaining units beside them.

You enter by a wide, electric door; the ethereal aroma of freshly-roasted coffee beans beckons visitors and patrons.

I usually meet my aunt here for the weekly chin-wag.

They serve freshly-cooked breakfasts, artisan tea and coffee, scones, iced fruit buns, cakes and biscuits in the morning.

I often have the fruit scone with butter and raspberry jam, and a pot of their blended Director's Brew tea.

Tiptree Tomato Ketchup

I've been fond of tomato ketchup since I was a lad in short trousers.

Forty years ago there was little choice other than the famous Heinz variety.

I remain unenthusiastic about the Heinz ketchup, one factor being its viscosity.

In comparison with Tiptree ketchup it's quite thin.

The percentage of tomatoes in Tiptree ketchup probably remains at 75%.

I must have consumed unimaginable amounts of the stuff over the decades.

The peculiar thing is that, when I was ten years old, I enjoyed corned-beef sandwiches with salad-cream; whereas my pal, John, insisted on ketchup!

Tiptree Tomato Ketchup by Wilkin and Sons is the best, to my mind.

I really ought to be a shareholder in the company, given the amount of their ketchup I consume.

The first Tiptree conserves were made in 1885 on the Tiptree estate in Essex and are still made there to this day.

Fruit crops include strawberries, loganberries, mulberries and damsons, to name but a few.

The signature fruit is the Little Scarlet strawberry, a tiny wild variety, originally brought to the United Kingdom by the Wilkin family in the early 1900s.

It is believed that they are unique in the world in growing this difficult crop.

Wilkin's received their first Royal Warrant from GEORGE V in 1911 and remain Royal Warrant-holders to this day, as purveyors of Tiptree products to Her Majesty The Queen.

Their products are available in over seventy countries, on luxury cruise-liners, in de-luxe hotels and on leading airlines.

First published in October, 2009.

Lindt Excellence 70%

BY APPOINTMENT TO THE RT HON THE EARL OF BELMONT, LINDT & SPRÜNGLI AG, SUPPLIERS OF CHOCOLATE PRODUCTS

I always used to shun dark chocolate.

Godmother always insisted on Black Magic chocolates, as she made clear on one occasion when I unwittingly brought her a box of milk choccies.

A decade ago, however, I purchased a bar of Lindt Excellence 70% (it was probably on offer), and haven't looked back since.

The flavour of the 70% is wonderful: Not bitter, nor too sweet; rich, almost like currants; with character and depth.

It's not bitter, unlike the 85% version which is a bit too earthy for me. The connoisseurs seem to agree, too. 

First published in March, 2013.

Culinary Bliss

I watched a new series on BBC Two HD last night, viz. Tom Kerridge's Proper Pub Food.

Generally I stopped viewing cookery programmes several years ago. I simply got bored of them, though I do watch Hairy Biker "repeats" occasionally.

However, I'm glad I recorded Tom Kerridge's show.

This large chef (a good sign!) is truly inspirational and this is reflected in the fact that his pub ~ The Hand and Flowers ~ has two Michelin stars.

I drooled when I watched him preparing the slow roasted lamb shoulder with thinly-sliced potatoes and onion.

He cooked it in the oven at a mere 130c for five or six hours and the lamb literally fell off the bone.

Here's the recipe:

Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with boulangère potatoes

Ingredients

• 3 medium onions, thinly sliced
• 6 large waxy potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 bunch thyme, leaves picked
• salt and black pepper
• 1 whole lamb shoulder
• 1 garlic bulb, peeled and separated into cloves
• 568ml/1 pint chicken stock
• cooked French beans (or other green vegetables), to serve

Preparation method

1. Preheat the oven to 130C/275F/Gas 1.
   
2. In a bowl combine the onions, potatoes and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
   
3. Layer the potatoes and onions in a roasting tin and place the lamb on top skin-side up.
   
4. Cut small incisions in the lamb using a small knife and stick the whole garlic cloves in the holes, pushing them into the meat to prevent them burning while the meat cooks.
   
5. Pour the chicken stock over and place in the oven for 4-5 hours, or until the potatoes are crisp on top and soft inside.
   
6. When cooked, remove the lamb from the oven, cover with aluminium foil and set aside to rest for 20 minutes.
   
7. Serve with French beans (or any green vegetable of your choice).
   

The Hawthorne at Fulton's

Timothy Belmont was at large in Balmoral today. Balmoral, Belfast, that is to say, as opposed to Balmoral, Aberdeenshire.

My first port-of-call was Agnew's Mercedes-Benz dealership, where I admired the shiny, polished metal on display, viz. the SLK variant.

I was offered a cup of Americano coffee and a miniature buttered scone, which I gladly accepted.

Thence, I motored in the direction of Marks & Spencer's food store and Fulton's emporium.

At M&S, I bagged a bot of Pinot Grigio wine.

Fulton's furnishings is now sadly closed down, though the splendid Hawthorne Restaurant upstairs remains in business.

I have been a customer at the Hawthorne since the eighties, when it was across the road in more modest premises.

This afternoon, I decided to have the magnificent chicken, mushroom and onion tart, accompanied by a fine mixed salad, with a good portion of coleslaw.

Their creamy dressing is simply superb. It sits in a large receptacle, complete with ladle, on a counter behind the cash-till.

My salad was treated to a liberal amount of this thick, ambrosial concoction.

If anything the Hawthorne is better than ever.

I complimented the staff thereafter and bade them adieu.

On my way home, I stopped at a bicycle retailer on Ravenhill Road, where I inquired about that Range-Rover of traditional cycles, viz. the Pashley.

I call it the Range-Rover because one's sitting-position is somewhat elevated.

These sit-up-and-beg type of two-wheelers are admirable pieces of traditional British craftsmanship. I was apprised that 5% discount would be as much as patrons might expect.

UPDATE: At Halford's I was informed that they are selling Pashleys at a £60 discount until Tuesday. That includes delivery within several days.

Malone Visit

I was at south Belfast today, the main purpose of which was to pay an old pal a visit.

James suffered a debilitating stroke several years ago and, as a consequence, now lives in a nursing home.

This particular home is at Windsor Park.

Although he has only been there for several days, he tells me that he likes it, which is very good news.

His father was a well-known solicitor. James himself was sent to Brackenber House prep school and Portora Royal School, Enniskillen.

We had a good old chin-wag about heritage matters and old Ulster families, a topic we both share a common interest in, especially since he was based once at the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland.

James asked me if I could contact his optician, in order to apprise him of James's whereabouts; which I shall do this afternoon; and I will also advise the optician that James needs another pair of reading and distance spectacles.

Later, I drove to Balmoral Road, where I visited a few businesses; and then lunched at the Hawthorne Restaurant, formerly part of Fulton's furnishings.

I am glad to say that standards at the Hawthorne are a high as ever; grub is terrific; and I was welcomed as an old customer.

I told them that I was glad to see them still open for business.

I had the usual, irresistible savoury mince tart with salad.

Kettyle Bacon

I have almost finished the packet of Kettyle Fermanagh streaky bacon. There is one rasher remaining.

 

I don't know if readers can recall that I mentioned this local brand some weeks ago, and I was full of praise about the quality and flavour of their back bacon.
So the grill was turned on this morning; the butter was placed at the bottom for a while; the bacon was brought out of the fridge; the Nutty Krust high fibre bread was trimmed in readiness for toasting; and a few rashers were placed under the grill.

Now I realize why I never received any acknowledgement, let alone a reply, from Kettlye: Their streaky variety does not crispen. Not at all; unless it is burned to the colour of charcoal.

Believe me. I have tried. It was even cooked in the microwave oven, though still did not crispen. It's simply not that kind of bacon.

Abundant fat emanates from the rashers as they cook; though they remain ~ well, soft in texture.

However ~ and I cannot overemphasize this point ~ the flavour of the finished product is quite supreme; indeed possibly amongst the best streaky rashers I have ever tasted.

In this instance, the fat seems good and enhances the full, rich flavour of the County Fermanagh bacon.

I have to admit to preferring streaky bacon very crispy; that's my personal preference.

Hence, in future, I shall revert to good quality "thin & crispy" streaky bacon.

I'd have no hesitation in buying the Kettyle back bacon, which is of the same high standard as their other products.

I am eager to try other Kettyle products, given the high standards of their bacon.

The Hawthorne Restaurant

I am delighted to learn that The Hawthorne Restaurant, although associated with the Fulton's Furnishings business for two decades, shall continue to trade, as usual, at Fulton's premises on Boucher Road, Belfast.

The owner of the Hawthorne writes:-

"The Hawthorne Restaurant is ... an independent business which will continue to trade in spite of the recklessness of the bank and its agents who plan to close the renowned and long-standing Fulton family furnishing business, which has been established for over 40 years."

Sylvia will continue to provide "the best in cuisine and friendly service to our very loyal customers".

Kettyle Success

I enjoyed a rasher of Kettyle back bacon this morning with my wholemeal toast and it was superb; sublime; sumptuous.

Now one cannot say fairer than that.

This is the first occasion that I have consumed Kettyle bacon. I'm wondering if their streaky variety crisps well in the microwave oven, were it to be stretched.

Quite frankly, it's so much easier to cook streaky bacon in the microwave and thin rashers crisp up wonderfully

Full marks to Maurice Kettyle, of Lisnakea, County Fermanagh; a great Ulster success story, especially having achieved a contract with a leading Dutch supermarket chain.

Fulton's Lunch

Lunch for Timothy Belmont today at Fulton's Hawthorne Restaurant in Belfast.

Savoury mince tart with salad and coleslaw; which was sublime.

Alas, Fulton's simply did not have that certain je-ne-sais-quoi, that buzz, that it once enjoyed.

Is it finally running down?

Foray into Town

Managing to avoid the showers, I popped into town this morning in the trusty two-wheeler and spent some time at the venerable Linenhall Library which, incidentally, currently has a photographic exhibition of several old stately Irish country houses.

They've a bit of catching up to do, in Timothy Belmont's estimation (!).

I gathered fascinating information about the lineage of the Earls of Egmont, landowners in County Cork and originally granted an extraordinary 101,000 statute acres of the kingdom of Ireland.

Thereafter I ventured in to Marks & Spencer, where I bagged the following groceries for Belmont GHQ:-

• Vetivert room spray, for the bedrooms
• Greek style honey yoghurt
• Chocolate brazils
• Jelly babies
• soft butter, for toast
• Asparagus tips
• Belgian chocolates, for Lady A
• Beef, potato and onion pasty

The pasty is "made in Yorkshire with crisp all butter pastry, British beef, Romano potatoes, swede and onions."

I have tried this pasty before and it is delicious, probably superior to most shop-bought Cornish pasties.

A Flash in the Pan

 

Bushmills has a good reception with BT Openzone, which I'm using presently.

I had intended dining at Tartine, the Distiller's Arms, in Bushmills, County Antrim, last night. I may dine there this evening.

Instead I jumped in to the two-seater, motored into the village, and ordered a cod and chips - the great British marriage made in heaven - from a renowned establishment called Flash In the Pan, on the main street of Bushmills.

Suffice it to say that, to my mind, this was the best cod and chips Timothy Belmont has sampled for a very long time - and that is saying something.

You must wait while they prepare the ingredients freshly to order. I waited for seven or eight minutes last night.

The takeaway I ate last night was superior to any I've had in Belfast, without singling out any particular establishment.

It cost £5.80, I think. How does that price compare?

Encore Ramore!

I forgot that they don't have wi-fi access at Ramore Wine Bar in Portrush, County Antrim. I had the netbook with me and, having attempted to obtain a connection, asked a member of staff: "sorry, no".

Still, I took a photo of the chilli beef fillet with shredded lettuce, mayonnaise and pitta bread.

I was shown Table 30 immediately, though the restaurant was busy, just short of crowded, what with the North West 200 being this weekend.

Service was very swift, too: It arrived before I'd even taken my jumper off! Super-fast.

It was delicious: very tender strips of beef in a chilli sauce. So simple. I could have ordered some vegetable as a side dish. However, I'm indulging sufficiently whilst in the vicinity. I washed it all down with a small 50-50 shandy.

Good old Ramore! Evergreen and invariably fun.

The Duck's Lamb

Northern Ireland Railway's choo-choo train was punctual this evening and I found a pretty Blonde conductor irresistible so offered her the £1.60 on the journey back to Sydenham halt at ten forty-five this evening.

BP and self spent the evening at the DD in Holywood, and very satisfactory it was, too.

We had to wait, as usual, for a table; however, eventually we got one beside the fire-place at the front of the bar downstairs.

We ordered food, which was delicious: I had the slow-cooked lamb shank with pesto mash, carrot and parsnip and the meat literally fell off the bone. It was sumptuous, with an abundance of lean meat.

BP treated himself to the sirloin steak- medium- accompanied by chips and French-fried onions. BP pronounced the steak very good indeed: pinkish in the middle; tender; flavourful; very lean. What more can one say?

The evening at the DD cost us about £60, which included at least six rounds, Bombay Sapphire gins and ale.

A lively band began playing after ten, including a saxophonist and a trumpeter; and they were good. However, we were compelled to vacate the premises owing to the last train at ten forty-six or thereabouts.

Craig's Honey

I breakfasted on toast spread with Craig and Anna's exquisite home-made honey this morning, which emanated from bees at the Castle Ward estate in County Down.

It has the most wonderful flavour. Well done, Craig, Bee-keeper Apiarist Extraordinaire and purveyor of fine honey to the Earl of Belmont!