3 Kinnegar Road

Here is an establishment I have spent many happy hours in, ever since I've been old enough to enjoy a dram or two.

It is now the Dirty Duck Ale House.

The Dirty Duck is situated at the corner of Kinnegar Avenue and Kinnegar Road, at the esplanade in the garrison town of Holywood in County Down.

It enjoys a fine prospect overlooking Belfast Lough.

My father played here during his childhood at the rickety wooden jetty with his chums.

They swam and sailed in dinghies.

This licensed premises has changed its name five times.

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It was first opened as the Kinnegar Hotel in 1868, the proprietor being one Daniel Ship.

At the turn of the 19th century it changed hands and became the Kinnegar Bar.

The Kinnegar Bar (Image: Chris Skelly)

Twenty years or so later, it was bought by Alexander Steen (whose name is inscribed on the gable in the old photograph) who restored its original name, although it was invariably known, quite simply, as Steen's.

I vaguely remember Fred Steen who, probably, was Alexander's son.

I think that at that period till the 1970s, the Inn was really a "drinking man's pub".

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This was the period when it became the Kinnegar Inn.

The bar's name changed, yet again, to The Clipper, in 1984.

The Clipper became the Waterfront during the 1990s.

Since then, it has changed hands several times.

I seem to recall that, at some stage, SIR JOHN GRAHAM Bt had an interest in it; indeed he may have owned it.

The Grahams had a country house near Dromore.

When I was at Brackenber, they invited us to make use of their swimming-pool which, I think, was outdoors.

I have fond memories of the bar in the 1980s.

I particularly liked the cosy upstairs lounge bar with its banquette, red velour cushioned seating.

Occasionally my father and I enjoyed a drink there of a summer's evening, watching the boats coming up and down the lough.

First published in February, 2009.

The Lobster Pot

I WROTE THIS PIECE ABOUT THE LOBSTER POT RESTAURANT BAR IN AUGUST, 2008, AS RECOLLECTIONS OF THE LOBSTER POT DURING THE 1970s.

I HAVE RECEIVED A NUMBER OF MESSAGES SINCE THEN. THERE IS CLEARLY A MEASURE OF SENTIMENT ABOUT THE OLD PLACE. I'M PUBLISHING THE ARTICLE AGAIN, FOR THE BENEFIT OF NEW READERS. 

STRANGORD, COUNTY DOWN, IS ONE OF THE MOST PICTURESQUE VILLAGES IN NORTHERN IRELAND.

HERE HE GOES again, I hear you groaning. Timothy Belmont has wandered down Memory Lane and dived into the pond of Nostalgia.

I am, after all, permitted a spot of nostalgia now and again.

Heaven knows how many gallons of gin I have consumed since the mid-seventies; a fair amount of it within the walls of the revered Lobster Pot in the picturesque village of Strangford, County Down. 

Those were the days indeed.

A perfect day started with the sun rising and waking me from my slumber very early on a Saturday or Sunday at Castle Ward.

Our boat, the Dolphin, was ship-shape and ready for action.

The tide was right and a day was spent on Strangford Lough, the sea as calm as a mill-pond, perhaps visiting an island and having an Ulster Fry or fillet steak - from Duffy the butcher - whilst basking in the sunshine.

Incidentally, the Hon William and Mrs Ward (now the Viscount and Viscountess Bangor [Sarah Bradford]) beat us to it, on one occasion, by buying a whole fillet of beef, thereby leaving young Duffy with nothing. 

They were served just before us in the shop.

Evenings were invariably spent in the Lobster Pot.

Here are some memories of that wonderful place:-

• Driving down in our Mums' Minis, with petrol costing 70 pence a gallon
• Celebrating exam results in the lounge-bar
• The lounge-bar was carpeted, with brown or blue velour buttoned banquettes lining the walls and down the centre too, crescent-shaped
• Memorabilia on the walls like stuffed game-birds in cabinets, a ship's wheel, port and starboard lights, a lobster-pot, lifebelts
• A telly high up in a corner & inconspicuous
• Spirits served in french-style wine glasses
• Really large, fresh scampi - langoustines - & chips cost £3.65; tartare sauce in minute, sealed plastic packs but...
• In the Dining-room sauces were served in stainless-steel dishes with spoons
• A grand a la carte menu enclosed within a leather padded A4-size folder
• The main menu was exhaustive in terms of choice; vegetables ranged from asparagus tips to sweetcorn or cauliflower, fresh peas, sauté mushrooms, leeks - almost everything
• The main dining-room was at the front and a second one was at the rear
• Great staff like Ann the head waitress and Jim the bar manager, both defecting to the rival across the Square when Walter became Mine Host
• Two pretty waitresses in the bar in 1976 when I was sixteen and I fancied Julie. I sent her a Valentine card and addressed the envelope to "Julie the Sensuous Barmaid". Julie, if you're reading this now you know the secret; I know it's been preying on your mind for thirty years (!)
• The Chicken Maryland was great; my favourite dinner was scampi, french-fried potatoes, french-fried onion rings, asparagus tips, perhaps sauté mushrooms too
• We ate in the main dining-room occasionally; it was a toss-up between the LP or Aldo's in Ardglass (the late Samuel (Sammy) Crooks, a former Dean of Belfast, always recalled Aldo's green curtains!).

I have written about our last meal here.

I still hold many fond memories of former times spent there with friends and family in the 1970s and 80s.

First published in 2008.

Watermill Restaurant

Watermill Lodge

It is always a true pleasure to visit County Fermanagh.

I was there for four days several years ago.

The main road from Belfast to Enniskillen is so good now that one can drive for a good part of the way at 70mph; though the Augher-Clogher-Fivemiletown section is at 30mph through the villages.

I stayed in Lisnaskea, the county's second town, I gather.

Belle Isle, the Duke of Abercorn's beautiful County Fermanagh estate and island,  isn't far from Lisnaskea, so I motored over to have a look around and chatted with the staff in the visitor office.

I usually visit the Fermanagh National Trust properties so, having been invited to a private dinner at Crom estate on Wednesday evening, I revisited Crom the next day for a good walk to the old castle, the walled garden on Inisherk Island, and through sections of woodland.

I also visited Florence Court on Wednesday; and Castle Coole, a National Trust property and seat of the Earl of Belmore, many of whose paintings are on display in the mansion house.

Lord and Lady Belmore today live at the Garden House on the estate and their elder son John, Viscount Corry, keeps one of the wings at Castle Coole.

As a matter of interest I counted 28 chimneys on the main block and 14 on Lord Corry's wing.

A highlight of my trip to County Fermanagh was dinner at the Watermill Restaurant at Kilmore Lough, about two miles south-west of Lisnaskea.

Kilmore Lough is navigable from Upper Lough Erne and, indeed, there were lots of cruisers and boats at the quay.

Watermill Lodge is one of the most charming places, with a thatched roof, little ponds, herb gardens, streams, rockeries and more.

Pascal Brissaud's attention to detail is remarkable.

Even the lavatories have curving mosaic tiles and stone spouts, skin to little streams, from which water flows into the hand basins.

Large bellows table

The Lodge is filled with character; the staff, smartly turned out, courteous, charming, diligent.

I sat at a table near the bar.

I perused the menu at length and chose prawn cocktail as a starter; not a common prawn cocktail, though, this one was served in a shell with juicy prawns.

As you'd expect, fresh breads were presented in a basked with hand-carved pats of butter.

The wine menu, by the way, has one of the finest selections in Northern Ireland, including several costing over £2,200 a bottle.

There is, should one require it, a helipad in the grounds (!).

For my main course I had the duck, served with creamed potato, sauce and a garnish (putting it simply).

I ordered a dish of mixed vegetables as well.

My pudding was a Pascal Special: dainty, little profiteroles.

I do not pretend to any kind of restaurant critic, though I thoroughly enjoyed my meal and of course the extraordinary location and ambiance of this restaurant and guest-house.

I hope to base myself here the next time.

The Moka Pot

If, like me, you are a confirmed aficionado of that great Sicilian detective, Inspector Montalbano, you shall be aware of his fondness for coffee, particularly the espresso type made in a Moka Pot.

Salvo Montalbano has a small, three-cup version in his house, and he’s often seen bringing the pot out with a bowl of sugar on a large tray to his balcony.

This is all quintessentially part of the Italian culture, I am in no doubt.

Moka pots are inexpensive and readily available on auction sites and so on.

Anybody who knows TImothy Belmont  will know that I’m no connoisseur of coffee. I enjoy it, though I’ll happily drink the instant, freeze-dried  stuff out of jars.

Nevertheless I do appreciate freshly ground coffee beans.

Recently I’ve tried the espresso variety, served in tiny cups equivalent to a large measure of gin.

I had one, in fact, at the Queen’s Film Theatre prior to watching The Lighthouse.

Having a sweet tooth I shovel a good spoonful of sugar into the cup, though, frankly, the espresso does not enthuse me at all.

What’s the point of it? If you drink it regularly does it become addictive in some way? I don’t know.

Readers, enlighten me!

Holohan's & QFT

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The drive to University Square was, thank goodness, uneventful last night, unlike Christmas Eve, when somebody slammed into the back of my car as I was en route to the annual carol service at Belfast Cathedral.

I managed to find a space about half-way along the Square, the finest mid-Victorian terrace in the city of Belfast.

A number of surgeons and physicians had their consulting-rooms here about fifty years ago.

University Square now belongs to Queen's University, and the Queen's Film Theatre (QFT) is located at number 20.

As it transpires, it was quite prudent to purchase a ticket for The Lighthouse online, because a notice-board stated that they were sold out.

Holohan's Pantry, February, 2020

Having parked, I walked towards University Road, crossed to the other side, and made a bee-line for Holohan's Pantry restaurant at number 43.

I'm wondering if Holohan's is developing this entire terrace, which dates from ca 1870.

It was known as Prospect Terrace.

This was my first visit to Holohan's, so I was looking forward to it.

I wasn't disappointed.

This is a small restaurant, quite narrow in width, though it stretches back a fair distance.

I was early, so it was still quiet when I arrived.

Calvin Holohan greeted me himself and showed me to a little table tucked away nicely at the back.

It formed part of the banquette seating which surrounds two of the walls.

My first impression of it all is good: comfortable seating, abundant cushions, some wooden panelling, distinctive paintings and so on.

The menu is clear, straightforward and concise, too.

It's not too large, to its credit, and has a balanced menu comprising the best of local produce.

I imagine that, if there is a signature dish, it has to be the Boxty, a traditional potato pancake.

Before I ordered Calvin told me a bit about his career and times in Dublin and County Mayo; and his schooldays at Kylemore Abbey.

The first course arrived, I suppose, within five to ten minutes.

This was the Portavogie prawns with coleslaw and and alioli.

The little prawns were lightly battered in, perhaps a sort of tempura manner, sitting on top of the salad.

Everything was light and delicious.

The alioli was lightly flavoured with garlic.

Not long afterwards the main course arrived: the Holohan's Pan Boxty, which was filled with large chunks of succulent smoked haddock and salmon in a rich sauce.

It came with seasonal vegetables, one of which looked like curly parsley.

Was it kale?

Seafood Boxty

Nevertheless, it was all delicious and I cleaned my plate, as it were.

The Boxty, by the way, is reminiscent of a crêpe, except that it's made of potato.

If you like potato bread or farls, you'll enjoy it.

Unfortunately I hadn't enough room for a full pudding, so decided to settle up and leave.

I'll certainly be back to Holohan's, as I told Calvin, a great and worthy host, and the charming staff.

*****

THE QFT is a mere hop, skip and jump from Holohan's, though I had a bit of time to kill so I ventured into the main bar of Duke's Hotel, called The Practitioner.

The Lighthouse began at ten past eight, so, having had a coffee, I found a seat and made myself comfortable.

The Lighthouse is not a conventional film.

For a start, it's made in black-and-white, and in the old 'box' style as opposed to wide-screen.

The first impression was that it could have been made in another era, though of course the sound and picture quality, and special effects were state-of-the-art.

This movie has been described as a psychological horror film.

It's brutal, and the characters (a cast of two) are coarse and vulgar, particularly the head keeper, the self-righteous Thomas Wake, who farts, bombasts, and bullies his subordinate (Ephraim Winslow).

These were powerful performances by Robert Pattinson (Ephraim) and Willem Dafoe (Thomas).

The theme is essentially about the relationship between the two, and the circumstances which led to their madness and destruction.

Much has already been written about the film, so I shan't elaborate any further.

I enjoyed it, though wouldn't advise Auntie Nellie to go, as it were.

It's definitely not for those of a sensitive or nervous disposition.

The Krazi Baker

The Ulster Fry is, to my mind, one of our most celebrated staples, renowned throughout the civilized world and long associated with our Province.

All right, perhaps there is a modicum (!) of hyperbole there, though why not?

We pride ourselves on the hearty Ulster Fry.

The Mad Hatter cafeteria in Enniskillen, County Fermanagh, made a very good one.

My late father did not cook much at all, though, when he did stand over the old stove at my uncle's cottage in the Mourne Mountains, his speciality was the Ulster Fry.

Potato farls, soda farls, eggs, sausages, rashers were all essential ingredients.

Sometimes wild mushrooms were picked from the adjacent fields beside the little whitewashed cottage, which stood at Glassdrumman, close to Spence's River.

My uncle adored the Mourne Mountains; in fact, when he was a young man (he was 18 in 1946)  he cycled from Belfast to the cottage he rented from the Newells at weekends.

We knew the Newells, who lived at their homestead further down the lane, not far from the main road to Annalong.

Jack was a strong character, who bellowed at friends and strangers.

My uncle purchased his own cottage at the other side of Spence's River about 1978.

HAVING been in foreign climes for awhile, I fancy the said Ulster Fry; and who should come to mind?

None other than that celebrated County Down artisan baker himself, Mark Douglas, better known as the Krazi Baker.

The Krazi Baker has a stall at Newtownards market on Saturdays from at least 6am.

Mark told me, however, that they are there, baking those most excellent farls, scones, brioche rolls etc from four-fifteen!

Mark has a terrific website which tells his story to a greater extent than I need to elaborate on.

At the moment Ards market is the nearest place for Belfast customers, though I think he runs occasional stalls at other venues.

S D Bell's

S D Bell's Original Premises, Knock, Belfast

I met my Aunt M for tea this morning at that venerable Belfast institution, S D Bell & Company, purveyors of finest tea and coffee.

They extended their premises about five years ago to include the remaining units beside them.

You enter by a wide, electric door; the ethereal aroma of freshly-roasted coffee beans beckons visitors and patrons.

I usually meet my aunt here for the weekly chin-wag.

They serve freshly-cooked breakfasts, artisan tea and coffee, scones, iced fruit buns, cakes and biscuits in the morning.

I often have the fruit scone with butter and raspberry jam, and a pot of their blended Director's Brew tea.

The Belmont Stew

You might recall the traditional recipe I shared for proper Irish stew?

Well, I'm cooking it today.

Here is my method and list of ingredients:-

1 lb lean lamb pieces;
1 lb onions;
1 lb carrots;
1 lb potatoes;
salt & pepper;
pinch of thyme.

METHOD

1. Place mutton with thyme in pot and add cold water to cover.
2. Bring slowly to the boil and simmer for one hour.
3. Add vegetables, all peeled and roughly chopped.
4. Season (I add one teaspoon of salt at first, and pepper).
5. Continue cooking until vegetables are tender.
6. Adjust seasoning. 

The lamb - which I trim well - is cut into pieces, placed in the sauce-pan with about half a teaspoon of thyme, covered with cold water, brought to the boil, and simmered for one hour.

Next I add the roughly chopped vegetables.

This has to be one of the tastiest, simplest, healthiest, most nutritious stews.

Using this method the lamb is very tender, and the water it is simmered in becomes a liquid stock, in fact.

I do cover cover the pot initially, though prefer to keep the lid off because condensation generates too much water (though this can be reduced at a later stage).

Simply simmer the stew and turn the ingredients occasionally.

It takes several hours.

Don't rush it.

First published in January, 2014; modified 2018.

The Burns Supper

The old school pal, Dangerfield, invited me to a Burns Supper at the family home five years ago.

The weather conditions were poor, though I finally managed to reach his house, a mile or two outside Broughshane, County Antrim.

I'm apprised that they have a hundred and forty acres.

We had a terrific time.

As can be seen by the photograph - Dangerfield had lent me a Royal Irish Rangers caubeen with its green hackle - I was slightly the worse for wear; so I was glad to have a room for the night.

The grub was delicious: wholesome chicken or pheasant soup; venison stew with haggis; chocolate and Cranachan pudding; whisky; abundant wine.

Shortly after the proceedings the drone of the bagpipes could be heard and Gavin marched in.

He must have learnt to play them in the CCF band at Campbell.

One of the house guests, Michael, is an accomplished musician and played the piano for us all.

He's another Old Brackenbrian, so I hope see him at the next annual dinner in the Ulster Reform Club.

I retired to bed at some unearthly hour, perhaps three-thirty the next morning.

We breakfasted in the conservatory: venison sausages, rustic bread, mustard, marmalade, mushrooms, tea.

First published in January, 2013.

Post Tardiness

Fret not, dear readers. The posting this morning was later than usual because I'm not using my normal BT connection.

The wifi where I happen to be can be, shall we say, hit or miss.

I shall try to post articles during the evening, when I tend to have a more reliable connection.

I dined at an old favourite earlier: Avenida Restaurant, Corralejo, Fuerteventura.

The food is relatively simple and unpretentious, as is the restaurant.

The standards, however, are first-rate.

My chicken escalope, served with crisp and dry chips, lettuce and tomato slice, was as enjoyable as ever.

Always order a half portion, lest you have the appetite of a hippopotamus.

One is brought a complimentary basket of fresh bread and strong alioli (my preference).

The bill came to a mere €5.90: a bargain.

S D Bell's Breakfast

I usually meet my aunt at the celebrated tea and coffee merchant, S D Bell's, at 516, Upper Newtownards Road, Belfast.

S D Bell's is one of the longest established family businesses still operating in the city.

It is always busy.

I normally have a pot of their Directors' Blend with a fruit scone; though today I fancied a cooked breakfast.

The Ulster Fry, cooked breakfast, is particularly popular in Bell's.

They have the smaller, five item version; or the full-size eight item plateful.

I opted for the former, and had an egg, sausage, baked beans, potato farl, and soda farl.

This was a rare treat and I devoured it heartily.

I think that in this instance I might just pip Camilla Batmanjelly to the food-trough.

Everything was tip-top and there was no greasiness, either.

It cost £4.80.

Erin, my favourite member of staff, presented it to me at our table.

I noticed another patron with the home-made stew, which looked equally good; and Ewart's haddock and chips featured on the blackboard.

Well done, S D Bell's, and long may you provide the choicest teas, coffees and food to us.

The Hot Toddy

All things considered, the winter must be dealt with. Pitilessly.

Beat the chill. Arm yourself with an abundant supply of whiskey, lashings of lemons and cloves, and fight back.

STEP ONE.  The trick is to heat your glass first, so rinse it out with boiling water just as you would heat a teapot prior to making tea.

STEP TWO.  Watch the cold begin its retreat as you intrepidly place four or five cloves in a slice of lemon.

Place the lot in the heated glass.

STEP THREE.   Add about two spoonfuls of sugar (preferably brown) and pour in boiling water till the glass is about half full.

Stir until the sugar has entirely dissolved.

Bushmills Inn, County Antrim

Finally, a liberal helping of whiskey, preferably distilled in the fair village of Bushmills, County Antrim.

Stir well and savour.

You have just beaten the cold.

Start celebrating.

Tesco Vintage Port

I happened to be at a massive Tesco store near me this morning at nine o'clock and bagged a bot of their finest vintage port, viz. the 1997 Vinho Do Porto, by Symington Family Estates.

Christopher Bellew, on his fine new blog, has apprised us - not to add tipped us off - about this.

It currently costs £16.

Shortcross Event

I was invited to Shortcross Gin's Signature Serve event last night in Belfast.

I have mentioned Shortcross Gin on a number of occasions on this blog and extolled its outstanding virtues; especially since it is distilled in County Down at the Rademon estate.

The cocktail party took place at Sixty6 cocktail bar, 68 High Street (formerly the executive offices of a bank).

As we entered we were offered champagne cocktails just inside the door.

This club retains the feel of an old directors' boardroom or dining-room, with plasterwork ceilings, fireplaces and so on.

Sixty6 is spread throughout the first, second, and even third floors of the building.

When I entered the room on the first floor it was busy already. I managed to start chatting to a pretty girl who was seated at the side of the room; and there we remained for quite some time.

Fiona and David, the proprietors of Shortcross Gin, were perfect hosts and introduced me to quite a few guests.

During the evening trays of sumptuous canapés were offered to us: the Belmont nose-bag quivered with joy.

It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening and I'd merely wish to express my gratitude and appreciation to Fiona and David for such a delightful evening.

The Bay Tree

I met my aunt and cousin this morning in Holywood, County Down, at The Bay Tree café and restaurant.

I'm still fond of this captivating establishment in the town.

One of my cousins has been in Northern Ireland for the weekend and I took the opportunity of catching up with her.

The others had cappuccino coffee with the renowned cinnamon scones, while I opted for fine wholemeal toast, served with home-made marmalade and Ulster butter.

Operatic Matinée

We spent a delightful afternoon at the Grand Opera House, Belfast, yesterday.

Having had an aperitif (!) in the Europa Hotel's piano bar, we walked across the street and into the theatre.

We were watching a lively modern production of Salome, the one-act opera by Richard Strauss.

Beware: visit the loo before taking your seat!

The opera was performed by Northern Ireland Opera.

From our seats in one of the boxes we had a wonderful view of the heavenly ceiling in the auditorium, one of the finest in Belfast (lest we forget the sumptuous ceiling of The Great Room at Belfast's Merchant Hotel).

While I was waiting for M, I had the pleasure of meeting Michael Jay and Fionnuala Jay-O'Boyle.

Mrs Jay-O'Boyle, CBE, succeeded Dame Mary Peters as Lord-Lieutenant of Belfast in 2014.

M and self dined at Flame Restaurant, one of several good dining establishments on Howard Street.

We both had the fillet of beef, which was trimmed and cooked to perfection.

Flame is located on the ground floor of the old Presbyterian War Memorial building, a seven-storey red sandstone block of 1922-25 at the corner of Brunswick Street.

A mural plaque in the restaurant reminds us that it was laid by Lord Beatty in 1923.