Rathlin Revisited

IN AUGUST, 2017, I STAYED FOR SEVERAL DAYS ON RATHLIN ISLAND

Rathlin Manor House in 2017

IT MUST be about four years since I last visited Rathlin Island, Northern Ireland's only inhabited off-shore island.

I'm fond of Rathlin.

I have always stayed at the Manor House, former home of Rathlin's landlords, the Gages.

Two ferries - one fast and one slower - sail regularly from the nearest town, Ballycastle in County Antrim.

The fast (passenger-only) ferry takes no more than twenty-five minutes to sail to the island.

My return ticket cost £12.

I arrived at about 10am on Tuesday, checked in early, unpacked and had a brief stroll round Church Bay before a good lunch comprising potato and leek soup in the Manor House, where I stayed for three nights.

Room Nine

I actually stayed in Room Nine, a small single room directly above what used to be the snug bar (The Auld Kitchen).

The Manor House closed down a couple of years ago for major renovation work so, subsequently, The Auld Kitchen was not replaced.

The new interior is hard to recognize if you recall the original one: partition walls have been rearranged and fresh, new, contemporary decor - all "mod-cons".

The general colour scheme seems to be painted in a kind of subtle pastel green.

My room had a oculus window and, in fact, there's another oculus window at the opposite end, too.

That evening I enjoyed a good dinner in the main restaurant comprising a lythe (pollack) with whole potatoes and kale; followed by pavlova.

Lawn in front of the Manor House

On Wednesday at 8am I had a fine cooked breakfast: two pork sausages, two lean rashers, potato-bread, soda-bread, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, baked beans, tea and toast.

After breakfast I walked to Soerneog View hostel, where I hired a cycle for the day (£10) and rode westwards to the RSPB Seabird Centre and the West Lighthouse.

The distance from Church Bay to the West Lighthouse is about five miles.

I was rather glad to reach my destination for, although cycling is a good means of seeing the island, the terrain is uneven to the extent that it was easier for me to dismount occasionally and walk up several steep sections.

The benefit, however, is that one can freewheel down!

The RSPB centre looks brand-new and they have a seating area with refreshments for sale.

The West Lighthouse now has an interesting exhibition and most of the keepers' rooms are open.

It cost £400,000 to build in 1912: that is an astounding £42 million in today's money!

Of course it's been fully automatic since the 1980s, I think.

Reinvigorated and fortified with a chilled drink, I mounted the bike and rode back to Church Bay and on towards the southern Rue Lighthouse and lovely Ushet Port.

Ushet was used almost 200 years ago by smugglers; their ruinous building still stands, as does the adjacent coastguard house.

It sounds a bit incongruous, doesn't it? Apparently the smugglers' house used to be a kelp store.

There were over a dozen seals at Ushet warily watching me.

Thence I cycled northwards, towards the East Lighthouse which is closed to the general public.

I left my bike back later in the afternoon.

I was certainly fortunate with the weather, managing to avoid the rain.

Reception

The Manor House has a little bar at Reception and this is where I installed myself during the evening before and after dinner.

Manor House breakfast menu in 2017

It's a convivial place where I encountered and struck up conversations with residents and guests.

There's a fine marble fireplace and the fire was lit in the evenings.

On Thursday morning, I opted for the veggie fry (below); thence walked to the National Trust's Ballyconaghan townland.

This walk terminates at a disused 1941 coastguard look-out on the north coast of the island.

En route, one passes a little cluster of cottages, or a clachan, called Crocknanagh.

This consists of four or five old, ruinous cottages forming what would have been a tight-knit community - probably all related in some way or other.

Ruined cottage at Roonvoolin

There are many ruined clachans and cottages on Rathlin: its population numbered 1,200 two hundred years ago; whereas today it's closer to 150.

Incidentally, Rathlin's resident population appears to be increasing: today it's closer to 150 and as I write the schoolhouse is being extended.

I was informed that there are now 9 pupils attending the school.

Rathlin still has many traditional, vernacular stone gate-posts.

By the way, I discovered a great little café called The Watershed.

It's located between the Manor House and St Thomas's Church, adjacent to the large vehicle ferry slipway.

They have a small menu and everything is home-made and delicious.

Margherita pizza & salad at the Watershed Café

I dined at the Manor House again on Thursday evening: crab cocktail and risotto.

Crab Cocktail at the Manor House

Remember to bring plenty of cash to Rathlin. I was down to my last few banknotes!

Of course most establishments accept credit and debit cards.

There is an ATM machine at McCuaig's Bar which, I think, charges a small fee for the service.

How, on earth, did the islanders cope in the past?

Stuffed it under the mattress, I imagine; or bartered a sheep for a supply of milk!

Dinner menu in 2017

I think I'll bring along my Swiss hiking boots next time, for although the terrain was mainly dry, some of it was waterlogged.

I had an absolutely terrific time on Rathlin and felt at home in the Manor House, where the company convivial; the staff very hospitable and friendly; and standards high.

First published in August, 2017.

The Motor Home

Those of you who have been following my narrative for the last twelve years shall be aware of my fondness for the fantastic world of Bertie Wooster and his valet Jeeves.

This morning I find myself in Wooster Mode.

How would s small de luxe motor home, fitted out with the Hypnos mattress, electricity generator for all mod cons, the plain Wilton carpeting, shower unit, wardrobe for the essential Belmont attire, and so on fit the bill?

By Jove the world would be my oyster.

Perhaps I exaggerate somewhat, though you get the gist of it.

We have had the intrepid Portillo in his trains, and could we potentially have Timothy Belmont in his motor home?

I speculate that the running costs would be in the region of £1,500 to £2,000, allowing for annual insurance, MOT test, servicing, road tax, fuel costs, site fees and so on.

The journey from Belfast or Larne to Cairryan would be another factor for continental trips.

Shelter for Turnstones

When I was on holiday recently I spent the day on a little beach near the village of El Cotillo, on the island of Fuerteventura, Canary Islands.

Fuerteventura is renowned for its strong winds, though in my experience this can range from a gentle breeze to very strong, including what amounts to sand-storms on some of the island's beautiful beaches.

Many regular visitors to these beaches bring wind shelters with them.

I have one now myself, called the Quechua Arpenez 0.

This small wind-breaker measures almost three and a half feet in height, weighs two and a quarter pounds (about one kilogram in continental weight).

The bag containing it measures fifteen inches by three and a half inches (38cm x 9cm).

If you're taking hand luggage with you on the flight this bag shall fit easily into your baggage.

DAILY avian visitors to Cotillo Beach are the most captivating little birds, Turnstones, which forage along the beach and rocks for food.

Sometimes they are heard before they are seen because their call is quite distinctive.

I had some bread with me, which they seemed to appreciate, though apparently their preferred foods are insects and molluscs.

I have never seen turnstones literally turning stones over with their beaks in search of food.

Are there any in Northern Ireland?

Portballintrae Visit

Seaport Lodge, September, 2019

Earlier in the week I spent several days in the seaside resort of Portballintrae, County Antrim.

This coastal village, near Bushmills, has always been popular, with its delightful sandy bays, Bushfoot Strand, the little harbour, and its general location on the Causeway Coast.

We used to spend weekends here at the Beach Hotel with friends.

Alas, that hotel was demolished many years ago and has been replaced with modern apartments.

The Bayview Hotel, however, remains; not the original building, which was also demolished ages ago.

I spent two agreeable evenings in the lounge bar of the Bayview, contented with my iPad and headphones.

Catch of the Day at the Bayview Hotel

On the first evening I had a bar meal comprising a blue cheese and beetroot salad, followed by the "Catch of the Day": smoked cod, mashed potato, spinach, surrounded by a creamy sauce.

This food was delicious.

Thereafter I removed to a banquette-style seat near the front door and Reception.

I have acquired a pair of state-of-the-art noise-cancelling headphones, Bluetooth (wireless), which cut out virtually all outside noise except whatever you're listening to on the iPad or other device.

Quite remarkable technology.

The next morning I paid a brief visit to Coleraine, one of my favourite towns.

On the way home, I made a small detour to Bushmills Garden Centre, a few miles outside the village itself.

For some inexplicable reason I've developed an interest in gardening, albeit on a modest scale.

I was on the look-out for a plant that likes dry conditions and the garden centre was promoting Sedums.

I'm apprised that this variety thrives in sunshine and doesn't mind dry conditions, so a spot between two thirsty trees in the border ought to satiate it.

I chose a lovely Sedum Spectabile "Brilliant".

When I purchased it there was a bee eating the nectar, adhering to it like a magnet.

It refused to budge (lest it had discovered the irresistible Belmont bouquet), so some gentle persuasion was required, viz. some of the Belmont blowing.

*

After breakfast one morning I strolled the short distance to Seaport Lodge, once the maritime residence of the Leslies.

Seaport Lodge commands one of the finest prospects in Portballintrae, with its little private harbour.

Unfortunately it has lain derelict for many years, though the owner is finally restoring it as I write.

Seafood Thermidor

The next evening I motored into Portrush, past the celebrated Royal Portrush Golf Club, to the harbour, where I had the Seafood Thermidor at Ramore Wine Bar.

I rather like the Ramore complex, which has several different bars and restaurants.

Just do not expect the conventional type of restaurant where you can reserve a table in advance, order at the table, and await service.

At Ramore wine bar you are shown to a clearly numbered table, peruse the menu, and walk up to the bar counter where they ask for your number, take your order, and you settle the account there and then.

This unconventional system works very well for Ramore and I find it perfectly acceptable.

During my break in Portballintrae the weather was mostly sunny, dry and quite warm, something I took full advantage of.

Perma-tan Belmont.

*

THE French Rooms is a charming restaurant in the centre of Bushmills, just along the street from the Inn.

Their opening hours vary, and at the time of writing dinner is only served on Friday and Saturday evenings; so I was fortunate to get my favourite (and lucky) Table Eight.

The last time I was seated at Table Eight an unknown American couple paid for my meal (unknown to me, because they had paid for it and departed some time before I'd finished my meal).

For this happy reason Mrs Bolton recognized me instantly and greeted my like an old pal.

Perhaps they ought to re-name Table Eight "Lord Belmont's Table".

For dinner I had the goat's cheese, served in a little, tied paper parcel on a wooden platter, with home-made chutney, lemongrass-infused olive oil, and rustic bread.

The main course consisted of sea-bass, garlic cubed fries, and beetroot gratin.

Needless to say, it was all delicious and superb; beautifully presented, too.

After dinner I repaired to the Bushmills Inn, ordered a beverage, and settled down at a small table with the iPad and headphones.

The next morning it was time to pack up, tidy up, and motor back home to the Belmont GHQ.

The Glory of Westminster Abbey

THIS ARTICLE WAS FIRST PUBLISHED IN JANUARY, 2010. I RE-ISSUED IT TO MARK THE OCCASION OF THE MARRIAGE OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE WILLIAM OF WALES KG TO MISS CATHERINE MIDDLETON ON FRIDAY, 29TH APRIL, 2011. MY LATEST VISIT WAS IN JUNE, 2016.

It is over one thousand years old; the royal church of coronations, dedicated on December 28th, 1065; the first recorded coronation being one year later, in 1066.

This glorious kingly place of worship, the very embodiment of English and British history, final resting place of so many Sovereigns, where the shrine of St Edward the Confessor lies, is Westminster Abbey.

I do feel "carried away" here; I feel the history coming from the stones and walls of this place.

I feel at home here. This Abbey and Collegiate Church is a National monument; a precious treasure; even a ancient museum of tombs and monuments.

It is, to me, probably the most sacred, significant building in Christendom.

I arrived at ten twenty-seven; and left over three hours later, at one fifty-five, when I walked over to St Margaret's, parish church of Westminster and somewhat dwarfed by the great Abbey beside it.

St Margaret's itself is medieval; a "youngster" compared to the Abbey. 

In the Abbey, I marvelled at the innumerable monuments and tombs of our Kings and Queens; statesmen; poets; admirals and generals.

The Royal Air Force has a tiny chapel at the east end, within the Lady Chapel (above).

Also in the Lady Chapel are the stalls and banners of the Knights Grand Cross - military and civil - of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath.

Here we have the Arms of our most senior admirals, generals and air chief marshals; and the most senior civil servants in the Kingdom.

While I passed close to the shrine of St Edward, I was approached by a truly lovely lady who, it transpired, was a member of clergy on duty in the Abbey that day. 

We chatted at length about the Abbey and also about her own church, St Bartholomew-the-Less in the City.

She said she'd noticed me spending time in wandering round the Abbey; and would have invited me to join her for prayers at the shrine of St Edward, which I'd have been honoured to do.

To my mind, Westminster Abbey is one of the the most important buildings in England.

A visit - or pilgrimage - to this glorious abbey church is essential.

Belfast City ~ London City

I'm pleased that the airline Flybe is to offer flights from London City Airport after signing a five-year deal.

The airline will offer services to and from Belfast City, Edinburgh, Inverness, Exeter, and Dublin.

Flights are due to begin on the 27th October, 2014, and Flybe estimates the routes will carry about 500,000 passengers a year:

"Today's announcement is a significant landmark in the re-birth of Flybe," said the airline's chief executive, Saad Hammad. "We are delighted to re-enter the London market at London's most convenient airport."

London City Airport DLR station is a station on the Docklands Light Railway which serves London City Airport. It opened on the 2nd December 2005.

Trains run westbound to Bank in the City of London and eastbound to Woolwich Arsenal. The station is located in Travelcard Zone 3.

Flight Upgrade

The Daily Telegraph investigates the chances of obtaining a flight upgrade:-

Most air passengers will never fly in anything but economy class.  Premium seats are shockingly unaffordable.

During its last January sale, British Airways advertised first-class return flights to Sri Lanka for £2,599, down from the usual £5,179.

Not a bad deal, but that’s still more than a month’s salary for the average British worker. Business class is less dear, but still remains beyond the reach of most people.

So unless you know your way around a hedge-fund, or happen to be flying the plane, there’s only one way you’ll find yourself turning left when you board an aircraft: the free upgrade.

Nabbing one is rare. A few years ago the website MoneySavingExpert.com polled nearly 9,000 travellers to find out whether they had ever received a free upgrade. Less than a third of those questioned had done.

But there are numerous ways you can boost your chances.

Choose your route carefully

Most upgrades will be offered for “operational reasons”, such as when the economy class cabin is full or oversold, but the premium cabins are not. Therefore travelling on a busy route, where this is more likely to occur, will help. Flights to beach resorts during the school holidays, when the majority of fellow passengers will be families, are a good bet. Monday morning flights to Frankfurt – not so much.

Be loyal, and pay more for your ticket

Regular customers will normally be given priority when an upgrade is available. “It is sometimes necessary to upgrade customers,” said a BA spokesman. “This is rare and will normally apply to frequent flyers who are members of our loyalty programme first.”  A spokesman for Lufthansa said: “Passengers who paid more for their tickets are more likely to be upgraded than passengers who bought a discounted ticket. The frequent flier program status is also taken into account.”

Travel alone

If there are just one or two seats available up front, they will probably be offered to single travellers first.

Just ask

Four per cent of those questioned in the MoneySavingExpert.com poll said they had received a free upgrade by simply asking for one at the check-in desk. With some airlines, however, it won’t matter how charming you are. A Virgin Atlantic spokesman, for example, said it does not give upgrades to anyone who requests one. The airline also recently revealed some unusual reasons given by passengers requiring an upgrade. They included the following: “Manchester United lost today, I am really upset and need the space to get over it” “My wife is pregnant – I need an upgrade as it is a really stressful time for me” “My newborn baby has claustrophobia, we really need an upgrade so she has more space” “I am Sir Richard Branson’s dentist” “I have lost all of my money in Vegas but really need an upgrade” “It’s a Sunday. No-one flies on a Sunday, so please can I have an upgrade?”  

But have a good reason

If you’ve got a more genuine reason than those listed above, such as being exceptionally tall, pregnant, or even celebrating a honeymoon, birthday, or anniversary, it will go in your favour. A Lufthansa spokesman said “it never hurts to ask”, and offering a reason such as these “would certainly improve your chances”.

And be nice

It goes without saying that the lucky few who have received an upgrade after requesting one were polite, and probably smartly dressed. They didn’t demand one.

Be unlucky

If you’ve got a faulty entertainment system, or a chair that won’t recline, you’ve got good reason to complain, particularly if you’re on a long-haul flight. You may simply be moved to another economy class seat, but if none are free... Equally, if you’ve got a legitimate grievance against another passenger – harassment, for example – you could ask to be relocated.

Be a VIP or know someone at the airline

The Virgin spokesman added that: “There is an upgrade list at check in (this could be journalists, travel industry VIPs, etc) and all these upgrades are agreed in advance and signed off at head office.” So if you have a good friend who works for an airline, it can’t hurt to ask.

Airline Surcharge

As if readers weren't already aware, the airline Flybe charges passengers a "Transaction Fee" of £9 for the privilege of using one's debit card. I choose to describe it as a surcharge.

Belfast City ‭(BHD)‬ to London Gatwick ‭(LGW)‬

Fare 0.00 GBP

Taxes and Charges 17.03 GBP

Seats 0.00

 London Gatwick ‭(LGW)‬ to Belfast City ‭(BHD)‬

Fare 0.00 GBP

Taxes and Charges 42.94 GBP

Seats 0.00 GBP

Transaction Fee 9.00 GBP

Total so far

   GBP 68.97

Includes fuel recovery of   6.00

Wi-Fi and Nuts

I'm still in the Stena Plus lounge enjoying a few mixed nuts - like self! - and a tiny glass of red plonk. We cannot be far from the Port of Belfast now.

Needless to mention that I have access to free wi-fi in this lounge.

Success!

I am presently on the Stena Plus lounge and I can recommend it thoroughly. I was invited to enter the lounge and I have free leather sofas, newspapers, wine, snacks, canapes, sandwiches and a hot menu. The staff are most courteous and I cannot speak highly enough of them.

The ferry sails at 19:55 hours.

My journey from Edinburgh to Stranraer has taken six hours non-stop, the worst conditions I have experienced in my life. -12 degrees Celsius. Feet of snow on motorways.

I had a restorative in the North West Castle Hotel in Stranraer and watched the Curling players from the lounge-bar.

The new two-seater is wonderful; so smooth, refined and excellent. It will require a wash, though.

Hopefully I'll be home before 22:30 hours.

At Airport

Well it is 08:00 hours, I am sitting in the departures lounge of Belfast City Airport and the Edinburgh flight appears to be on schedule for 08:30.

The airport is quite busy, I've bought a copy of the Daily Telegraph and I await a boarding call imminently.

I am slightly apprehensive re the condition of the roads from Edinburgh to Stranraer and can only hope that traffic is flowing again by lunch-time.

Gatwick Airport

It's two fifty-four. I've got through the ordeal of security at Gatwick; and I thought I'd remembered to remove everything from my luggage and my person. The toiletries and the Dell Mini 9 were declared. The coinage and belt were also removed.

I did omit to remove a pair of items, though: The metal shirt-sleeve bands! The penalty, yet again, was a thorough "going-over", and removal of the shoes.

Oh well, no harm done. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I have a BT Openzone connection here in the airport.

Inside the Wolseley

Remember the Wolseley motor car? I do, though they'd been absorbed into the British Leyland leviathan by that time, which became the fate of many marques at the time, including Rover, Jaguar, Daimler, Triumph, MG and more.

A good friend of my father invariably drove Wolseleys; they had become a smart version of the Austin 1800/2200 by the seventies. The little, illuminated Wolseley badge on the grille amused me.

I ate at the Wolseley restaurant last night, named after the aforementioned car because there used to be a showroom at the premises. The Wolseley is quite far up Piccadilly, near the Ritz hotel.

I followed my usual practice, telling them that I hadn't booked; and, without further ado, I was shown to a table in the middle of the restaurant where I could view all.

It's a busy place, though service was prompt. They provided me with a newspaper.

I ordered the seasonal game "fully garnished"; and a side order of mashed potato. It was Scottish venison. I love venison, especially when it's nicely cooked: the meat tonight was quite rare; lean, tender and delicious.

For pudding I had the blackberry and apple crumble with custard. I washed the meal down with a glass of their own red wine.

Price-wise, this place is on a par with the Ivy. The customary cover and service charges are added to the bill.

Ecclesiastical Splendour

It must be about ten years since I last paid St Paul's Cathedral a visit. The entrance fee has increased to £12.50, though it was reduced to £9 yesterday, due to the inclement weather. St Paul's is one of those historic buildings that fill one with awe: Look around and Wren's masterpiece is there for all to admire.

Whilst the crypt of St Paul's lacks the architectural magnificence of the nave and dome, it compensates for this by its historical import. Here we have the tombs and monuments to illustrious personages, many of whom were Admirals of the Fleet and Field Marshals; the two most noteworthy, perhaps, being those of the great Duke of Wellington and Admiral Lord Nelson. Many of our military figures rest here; there are memorials to Lord Alanbrooke and Lord Montgomery, for instance.

The Crypt is vast: The shop is here, as is the cafeteria and the restaurant. The Crypt also contains the Chapel of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire; and the banners of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother and Prince Philip hang here. I think the Order was founded in 1917, so the Chapel is relatively recent.

I chatted to a member of the clergy on duty below the dome. We talked about Northern Ireland and he asked me if Belfast was worth a visit. I replied tactfully that every place was worth a visit at least once! I told him that I listened to Canon Lucy Winkett on Thought For The Day, BBC Radio Four; and he exclaimed: "can you get Radio Four over there?" Had I been impertinent I could have added " Indeed, and we have electricity and cold running water too!" It was an innocuous enough comment, though.

Earlier in the day, I wandered in to Turnbull and Asser's shop in Jermyn Street for a "browse". There was a sale on, though they don't seem to publicize it much. I stepped downstairs, where there were literally dozens of ties on the sale.

Over at the end where my shirt sizes were, I noticed a classic, plain, light blue button-cuff shirt; and, slightly impulsively, bought it. Their button cuffs all have the distinctive three buttons. I told the assistant that I'd been a customer of theirs since the early 80s; and that I still owned a double-cuff silk shirt, along with three other shirts, from Turnbull's. Now I have four, plus two ties and a handkerchief.

Long may they last.

At the Ivy

I ventured out to Leicester Square yesterday evening, the aim being to seek out a much-lauded and hailed restaurant called The Ivy. Armed with my map I found it quite easily: It is just off Charing Cross Road, down Litchfield Street. The Ivy is literally opposite St Martin's Theatre, where The Mouse Trap still plays.

The Time was four-fifty; the Ivy didn't open till five-thirty; so I re-traced my footsteps on to Charing Cross Road and encountered a small bar called The Porcupine, where I had a small restorative.

At five twenty-five, I drank up and made straight for the Ivy. The staff at this restaurant are exceptionally courteous, which softens the obligatory 12.5% service charge and £2 "cover" charge. I advised them that I hadn't booked; she inquired if I had a theatre booked (no); showed me to a table; offered to relieve me of my very heavy British Warm overcoat and hat; handed me a plastic card for the cloakroom on departure; and even brought me a newspaper, since I was on my own.

They have plenty of staff wafting about, keeping an eye on patrons attentively. I was brought a basket of fresh, crusty bread and a dish of flavourful butter.

I ordered the slow-cooked Cornish lamb shoulder with roasted winter vegetables; and also had a side dish of honey-baked parsnips with thyme. The lamb was delicious; it was absolutely tender, with little fat at all. Slow-cooked indeed and succulent; a generous portion, too. The couple beside me had just arrived, and the chap liked the look of my lamb so much that he ordered it himself! I had made a wise choice.

I washed it down with a glass of Chardonnay wine.

I had sticky toffee pudding for dessert, accompanied by a little jug of pouring cream.

The experience was all quite civilized. I'd certainly return.

Wireless Marvel

I'm seated in my London hotel room, with my diminutive Dell Mini 9 on my lap, tapping away happily. The hotel has free wi-fi and I'm using their own connection. It's ruddy marvellous, because my little netbook has all my settings, bookmarks, favourites and passwords.

The Mini 9 was possibly my best purchase in 2009. I find it quite indispensible.

I got into trouble at Belfast City Airport, because I'd packed the Mini 9 in my hand luggage and should have "declared" it to them! That cost me a thorough "going over". I nonchalantly read the Daily Telegraph while the security girl swabbed all sides of it, from top to bottom, and whatever else they do. I'm sure she enjoyed it.That's the computer, by the way, not me!

London Flights

I've been having a quick look at the various airlines and flights from Belfast City Airport to London. FlyBe remains competitive, it would seem; British Midland - BMI - is another option, though availability and flight times are naturally a factor. A flight at 06:50 in the morning wouldn't be my first choice, lest it were literally free, or a couple of quid.

The other factor to take into account is the journey from the airport into central London; so it is the overall figure, including taxes and flight times, that is of more relevance to me. I may well be able to get a flight from one airline that costs £51 return; though the onward trip by train could cost another £20.

Incidentally, a small hotel in Bloomsbury - a part of the metropolis still largely owned by the Duke of Bedford, it seems - which attains a high rating on TripAdvisor, has caught my eye: the Ridgemount. I am a great believer in TripAdvisor, by the way. I invariably check a hotel's ratings with them before I book anywhere.

A Complimentary Drink

I meant to say that I was treated to a free drink on my flight home. While I was seated, a lady standing in the aisle was getting something from the overhead luggage compartment and some sand accidentally fell over me. She was terribly apologetic; what a lovely person.

During the flight, when the cabin crew were wheeling the drinks trolley down the aisle, I ordered my customary gin and tonic - with some peanuts - when the stewardess informed me that the lady in the row behind was footing the bill!

I turned round, smiling, and told her that there was no need; but she insisted.

Later on, when the trolley appeared a second time, I told the stewardess that I wished to offer the couple behind me a drink - one act of kindness deserves another, I felt - but she declined.

Wildlife On Fuerteventura

You shall recall that I alluded to a particularly hairy family, all sporting buck teeth, whom I encountered whilst on Fuerteventura. I am tempted to imitate that silly advertisement on television by a sofa company that invites us to Meet the Dillons.

Meet the Chipmunks! They resided in burrows inside the rocky cliffs near my hotel and they are the most endearing little creatures. I am apprised that they are really Barbary ground squirrels, though they're commonly known as chipmunks on the island.

These chipmunks must easily be half the size of a squirrel. Once they have your confidence, they'll dash over and grab a nut or piece of apple most willingly. I watched while one little fellow returned for three nuts from me and proceeded to bury two of the nuts for a rainy day (take note, Mr Brown). I viewed another chipmunk lifting its baby with its mouth and taking baby back closer to home.

Closer to the beach, on the dunes, I stood beside a pair of the most spectacular large birds I have ever seen: grey-crowned cranes. They walked about in a most stately manner, occasionally making loud, ear-piercing trumpeting calls. Apparently this exotic bird is a national symbol of Uganda.

Other birds I spotted were a hoopoe and a flock of parakeets, one of which walked over to me for several peanuts.

Jandía: My Verdict

I like the Canary island of Fuerteventura. Normally I stay in Corralejo, which is still basically an old fishing village; so it has an old town and its hinterland expands in to the wider tourist resort. Indeed, it is agreeable enough to stroll through the older streets of the town.

Corralejo sits in the north of the island. Jandía, on the other hand, lies in the south. I decided to stay at Jandía on this occasion, just for a change. I can tell you that I intend to remain loyal to Corralejo (if there were suitable accommodation at El Cotillo I'd try it, though).

Jandía has no heart. I suppose it could be called a resort. It is merely a two-mile long stretch of concrete beach-shops interspersed with the odd cafeteria. That's it. What it does have is a beautiful beach which is also miles in length.

Because Jandía isn't a town, there are no locutorios, those internet shops with rows of phone booths where cheap phone calls can be made. I missed this a lot, because I like to keep in touch at home; instead, I used the public pay-phones which are possibly three times dearer, or more.

Fuerteventura has a decent public bus infrastructure, but I could hardly find a bus-stop in Jandía! Bus-stops are few and far between there. So I only managed to use the bus once, happening to encounter one on its way to the nearby town of Morro Jable.

My hotel was very good, though. The residents were mainly German. The evening entertainment was excellent, the team putting on musicals like Grease and Starlight Express most nights. It was a friendly hotel, I felt, and all the staff were most diligent. The chambermaid service was exceptionally good. Meals were perfectly acceptable, too.

I spent most of my time on the beach, reading P G Wodehouse, basking in the sun and taking the odd dip. I did meet a Bavarian lady on the beach from Munich. We got on well and chatted - she spoke good English. I might have seen more of her, though she was leaving in two days. I asked her out for a drink in my bashful way; she politely declined. Nothing lost, nothing gained. Perhaps, unlike me, she didn't fancy a one-night stand!

I am sure it shan't be long till I pay Fuerteventura another visit.