Downhill: 1824

Downhill, SEAT OF THE REV SIR HENRY HERVEY ASTON BRUCE, BARONET, FROM ENGRAVINGS BY JOHN PRESTON NEALE

"THIS magnificent seat was erected by Frederick, 4th Earl of Bristol, Bishop of Derry, and is a proof of his great taste in architecture, a science to which his lordship devoted great attention."

"It was bequeathed to its present possessor by the late Earl of Bristol, from whom, in the female line, Sir Henry Bruce is descended, and in the male line, through a noble and honourable race from Robert le Brus, a noble Knight of Normandy, who accompanied WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR into England."

"The mansion is situated near Coleraine, on the edge of the sea, not far from the entrance to Lough Foyle; it is surrounded by pleasure grounds, planned with exquisite skill, the ruggedness of the soil being happily relieved by judicious cultivation of such shrubs as are best adapted to the spot."

"The romantic Glen, including the Lawn, is curved nearly in the form of a horse-shoe, whose two heels are the openings to the north-west."

"From the Lodge, on the Coleraine side, the road winds through a fine wood, having on the left a shady and sequestered glen; a small river runs through the wood, crossed by a bridge, much admired for the singularity of its architecture."

"The view from the Strand Lodge displays at once the beauty of the grounds in front of the house, the rich verdure of the grass giving pasture to fine large Ayrshire cows and Merino sheep."

"On either side of the lawn the plantation displays the grassy green of the larch, contrasted with the bluish hue of the pine and Scots fir; a romantic effect is produced by the appearance of the tabular and columnar basaltic rocks, whose naked protrusions, and wild ruggedness, prevent the smooth-mown lawn and decorated slopes from tiring the fancy too much by the recollection of artificial labour."

"On the right, over the plantation, is seen the Mausoleum, erected by the late Earl of Bristol to the memory of his brother, formerly ambassador to the Court of Spain, where he proved himself a minister of great vigilance, capacity, and spirit, particularly with relation to the family compact between the Houses of Bourbon: he died in 1775."

The Mausoleum is virtually rebuilt by Stephen Price and Peter McMullan in a short video clip here. I'd urge readers to watch this.

"THE Mussenden Temple is a beautiful and singular erection, it is so called after a sister of Sir Henry Bruce, Bart, who married Daniel Mussenden, of Larchfield, County Down; she was a very beautiful lady, and left one son at her decease."

"It is adapted as a library, and contains a small collection of books."

"This building overhangs the sea, and the view of the Strand from thence, during a storm in particular, is truly magnificent; the prospect is bounded by a long range of the Donegal Mountains."

"From the grounds is a view of an old chapel, now a ruin, adjoining which is the burying-ground containing the family vault; at other points the prospect is beautiful and continually varied: the disposition of the whole clearly evinces the hand of taste."

"The interior of the mansion presents also the same claims to our attention; it is richly decorated, and abounds with works of art, collected by the Earl of Bristol."

"In the entrance hall is a statue of the Fighting Gladiator."

"The staircase is extremely light and elegant, it is of stone, with gilt balustrades, the walls painted in fresco, with rustic scenery: from the dome, in which is painted a representation of the Deity dividing light from darkness, depends a large glass chandelier."

"In the corridors of communication are a variety of statues in niches, Flora, Minerva, Leda, Diana, Venus, Apollo, etc, and many busts."

"In the dining-room, the chimney-piece is mosaic, upon which is placed a clock, with the figures of Telemachus and Mentor in a galley; the sideboards, at each end, are supported by Egyptian figures, and adorned with hieroglyphics in ormolu."

"The ante-room to the library is adorned with appropriate busts, and the library, beside an excellent collection of books in four large mahogany cases, and one in the form of an organ, filled with various engravings, contains many curious specimens of art."

"Also a very handsome large mahogany table, holding a musical clock."

"The roof is a dome painted as sky, from which depends a glass chandelier."

"A gallery communicates to the upper part."

Downhill House and Mussenden Temple are virtually revived by Stephen Price and Peter McMullan in this video clip, superbly done if I might add.

First published in June, 2020.

Drumbeg

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

DRUMBEG, a parish, partly in the barony of Upper Belfast, County Antrim, but chiefly in that of Upper Castlereagh, County Down, ¾ of a mile from Lisburn, on the road to Belfast.

The River Lagan traces the boundary line between the counties, bisects the parish, and is rich in those features of landscape which possess beauty without grandeur; picturesqueness without power.

The industrious prosecution of the linen trade, and the comparatively skilful practice of agriculture, combine with groves, and gardens, and undulated surface, to render large tracts of the parish a fine foreground to the view of Divis mountain, and the general range of heights on the southern frontier of the great trappean tableau of County Antrim.

The soil differs greatly in quality, from a sandy loam to a stiff clay, but is very fertile.

The Lagan Canal from Belfast to Lough Neagh passes through the parish.

The principal seats are Glenburn, the residence of Francis William Crossley; WILMONT; FINAGHY HOUSE; Larkfield, residence of Henderson Black; Drumbeg rectory; Drum House, W H Smyth; and Belvedere Cottage, a neat and commodious residence, built on the property of A Durham.

BALLYDRAIN, the beautiful demesne of Hugh Montgomery, though not in this parish, is within 200 yards of the church, and with the adjoining grounds of Lakefield, the residence of Miss Richardson, and Lismoyne, of Mrs Callwell, presents one of the finest landscapes in the neighbourhood of Belfast.

Drumbeg parish church (Image: W A Green/NMNI)

The living is a rectory, in the diocese of Down, and in the gift of the Bishop; a part of the rectorial tithes is impropriate in C CHARLEY, A Durham, and NARCISSUS BATT, as lessees under the MARQUESS OF DONEGALL.

The glebe house was built in 1826.

Drumbeg parish church (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

The church was rebuilt by subscription in 1795: it has a tower surmounted by a spire, which having been blown down in 1831, was rebuilt at the expense of J Charley.

About 300 children are educated in five public schools, two of which are on Erasmus Smith's foundation.

First published in July, 2022.

Dunmurry

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

DUNMURRY, parish of Drumbeg, barony of Upper Belfast, County Antrim, on the river Glenwater, and road from Belfast to Lisburn, nearly midway between these two towns.

Dunmurry ca 1830 (Image: historic OS map)

This place, which takes its name from two Danish forts, or raths, in its immediate vicinity, was formerly the parish of Ballygosh, which soon after the Reformation was annexed to that of Drumbeg.

Its ancient name has been superseded by that of the village which has been erected, and which is beautifully situated in a sequestered and fertile vale, and remarkably neat.

Dunmurry (Image: W A Green/NMNI)

On the Glenwater are two bridges, one at the village, an ancient structure, and the other, over which the Dublin road passes, a noble pile of two arches of freestone, quarried on the spot.

The surrounding hills being richly planted add greatly to the beauty of the scenery, which is also embellished with several handsome seats, of which the principal are SEYMOUR HILL;

Woodbourne (Image: eBay)

 WOODBOURNE; Dunmurry House [demolished]; Suffolk [demolished]; Glenville; and Collin House [demolished].

Dunmurry (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

In the village are some extensive flour mills, worked partly by water and partly by steam, and ttached to them are large stores for grain and malt kilns.

THE church of Ballygosh has long since disappeared, and the rectorial tithes of the two townlands which constituted the parish were granted by JAMES I to Sir Arthur Chichester, and the vicarial tithes to the incumbent of Drumbeg.

There is a place of worship for Presbyterians, formerly in connection with the General, but now with the Remonstrant, Synod of Ulster.

On Collin mountain, to the north-west of the village, is a very conspicuous cairn of considerable extent; it consists of small stones piled together in a conical form, and is now almost covered with green sward.

First Dunmurry Presbyterian Church (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

FIRST DUNMURRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH,  (described as "Meeting-house" on the historic map above) is almost certainly the oldest building in Dunmurry.

Circa 1906 (Image: Ebay)

The congregation of Dunmurry's first Presbyterian church was established in 1676, and a meeting-house was erected on a nearby site, of which no trace remains.

A second place of worship was built in 1714, and a date stone at the back of the building, inscribed with “Anno Christi, 1714, R Georgy RJ,” could be from the original meeting house.

The mural plaque over the left entrance door declares that it was built in 1719, presumed to be a painter's error, given that the present building was erected in 1779.

The architect of the present church is uncertain, though it's thought to have been Roger Mulholland, architect of First Presbyterian Church, Rosemary Street, Belfast, in 1783.

Rev James Stouppe, Minister from 1772-80 (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

A stained-glass window in the front elevation, in memory of John McCance JP (1816-63) and his brother Henry McCance JP DL (1829-1900), was erected in 1900.

McCance memorial window

First published in July, 2022.

Randalstown

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

RANDALSTOWN, a market and post-town (formerly a parliamentary borough), in the parish of Drummaul, barony of Upper Toome, County Antrim.

Timothy Ferres, 2024

This place, which is situated on the River Maine, was from that circumstance called Mainwater, and also Ironworks, from the forges and furnaces formerly in extensive operation.

In the war of the Revolution the town was the headquarters of the Earl of Antrim's forces, who marched hence for the siege of Derry; and in the disturbances of 1793, a body of the insurgent forces attacked it, burned the market-house, and continued their devastations till the approach of Colonels Clavering and Durham, on the evening of the same day, when they retreated to Toome bridge.

In 1683, CHARLES II, in consideration of a fine of £200, granted to Rose, Marchioness of Antrim, the Manor of Edenduffcarrick [Shane's Castle], with all its rights and privileges, and constituted the town of Ironworks a free borough, with power to return two members to Parliament, to be chosen by the majority of the inhabitants, on precept to the seneschal of the manor issued by the sheriffs of Antrim.

The borough continued to return two members till the Union, when the franchise was abolished.

The town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the River Maine, over which is a handsome bridge of nine arches.

Former barracks (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The barracks for the staff of the county militia, whose headquarters and depot are here, are well built. This row of terraced houses was built in 1816 by the Earl O'Neill, Colonel, to serve as the barracks, which at that time comprised four officers and 93 soldiers; and it cost £2,000 (about £162,000 in 2024). Part of the parade ground remains in front of the houses, though originally it extended for about 120 yards beyond the viaduct. The barracks were sub-divided into separate dwellings in the 1860s, when the front porches were added.

Former hotel (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The former inn was reputedly built in 1750 by Charles O'Neill, father of 1st Viscount O'Neill, as the O'Neill Arms Hotel and Posting House. Between 1824-35 it was leased to John Cooper, Quartermaster-Sergeant of the Antrim militia, and became Cooper's Hotel. In the early 20th century the erstwhile hotel became a private residence; while the curved section fronting onto Main Street became a police barracks from 1897-1936.

THE chief trade is the spinning of cotton and the weaving of calico, for which there are extensive mills; and there is a large bleach-green.

Market House, Randalstown (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The market is on Wednesday and is abundantly supplied with wheat, flour, meal, and pork being sent to Belfast; there is also a market for linen and linen-yarn.

The market-house, in which are an assembly-room and rooms for holding the various courts, is a neat and well-arranged building.

There is a constabulary police station in the town.

(Timothy Ferres, 2024)

A manorial court, which is the property of the [first and last] Earl O'Neill, is held before the seneschal every month, at which debts not exceeding £20 are recoverable; and a court leet annually, at which a weigh-master, a market jury, and constables are appointed.

Memorial in parish church to 1st Earl O'Neill (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The parish church, a handsome structure built in the early English style, 1832, with an octagonal freestone spire, is situated in the town, and stands on the site of a church erected in 1709.

Memorial to 3rd Viscount O'Neill (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

It cost £1800 [about £168,000 in 2024], of which the Earl O'Neill subscribed £300, besides giving a fine-toned organ.

O'Neill vault in graveyard of Drummaul parish church (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

Lord O'Neill has also built a beautiful mausoleum for his family close to the church, the family burial-place having been at Edenduffcarrick [Shane's Castle] since 1722.

The mausoleum was built ca 1838 at a cost of £500. It  is made of sandstone in classical style standing on a stepped base in a flagged enclosure bounded by a low plinth wall surmounted by iron railings. Fluted brackets and pediments adorn each face of the tomb; railings are ornamented with Palmette motifs alternating with spear-like finials. Inside the gateway are two large stone blocks set with iron rings for lifting and revealing access to the vault below. The tomb has a raised shield-like stone plaque on each short face; there are, however, no inscriptions. There are niches for eighteen coffins.

O'Neill vault (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

There are also a spacious and well-built RC chapel, two Presbyterian places of worship, and a dispensary.

Randalstown ca 1830 (Image: historic OS map). Click to enlarge.

THE land in the parish of DRUMMAUL, with the exception of a few farms, is in a very indifferent state of cultivation; there are bogs containing about 2,800 acres.

The Earl O'Neill's gorgeously wooded demesne of Shane's Castle, and for many years the seat of his family, occupies most of the vale southward to Lough Neagh, and the grounds and plantations extend far on both sides of the River Maine.

The mansion was destroyed by fire in 1816, and is now in ruins; the park, which is well stocked with deer, is ornamented with fine timber.

Millmount, the seat of agents to Lord O'Neill, Hollybrook, and Sharvogues are also in the parish.

The living is a vicarage, in the diocese of Connor, and in the gift of the Marquess of Donegall, in whom the rectory is impropriate.

My friend Heather visited Randalstown recently:-

"Yesterday I  discovered Antrim and Newtownabbey Borough Council's wonderful work in maintaining the top of the Randalstown viaduct as a charming walk with lovely views over the village and the river, and with planting and seating (essential for those of us beginning to crumble!) along its length." 

 

"The 73ft (22m)-high Victorian viaduct was designed by Charles Lanyon and built by William Dargan in 1855-6, its eight arches carrying steam trains over the River Maine on the routes from Belfast to Cookstown and Ballymena."

 

"Randalstown railway station closed in 1950, and the final train passed over the viaduct in 1959. A regeneration programme in the late 1990s saw the creation of a walkway, and in 2022 the Elevation Community Garden was opened." 

"Today Antrim and Newtownabbey Borough Council maintain the walkway and planting to the same high standards as those seen in the Antrim Castle Gardens."

Pomeroy

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

POMEROY, a parish, in the barony of Dungannon, County Tyrone, 7¼ miles from Dungannon, on the road to Omagh.

The district was granted by JAMES I to Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord Deputy of Ireland, and soon after was created a manor, under the name of Manor Chichester.

It was then altogether an extensive forest, some of the oaks of which, when cut down several years since, measured 29 feet in circumference.

During the unsettled period of 1641 it was nearly stripped of its timber, and for many years after remained in a neglected state, until 1770, when the Rev James Lowry undertook its management: he planted a great portion of the demesne, which now exhibits some very fine timber, and bequeathed a sum to erect the present mansion.

In the demesne, which consists of 556 acres, is a small lake, the borders of which resemble in shape the coast of Ireland, on a scale of about one foot to a mile.

Near it is a very abundant spring of water, strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas.

Pomeroy from The Diamond  (Image: Donaghmore Historical Society)

The village, which is small and meanly built, on the summit of a hill, consists of a square and long street, the roadway of which having been cut down in order to diminish to ascent, has placed the houses on each side in an unsightly and even dangerous situation.

Pomeroy from The Diamond (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The eastern and southern parts of the parish are fertile and well cultivated; the western, which forms part of the Altmore mountain, and comprises nearly 3,000 acres, is uncultivated mountain and bog.

Granite, basalt, quartz, limestone, freestone, clay-slate, iron-stone and coal have been found within its limits.

The principal seats are Pomeroy House, the fine residence of R W Lowry; Mulnagore Lodge, of Mrs Stafford; Drummond Lodge, of J Suter; and the Glebe, of the Rev Thomas Twigg.

The parish was erected in 1775, by an Order of Council, at the application of Lord Primate Robinson, by severing 41 townlands from that of Donaghmore: it is a rectory and vicarage, in the diocese of Armagh, and in the patronage of the Lord Primate.

The Glebe House, built in 1786, at an expense of £414 [about £54,000 in 2024], supplied by Primate Robinson, and enlarged in 1793 at a cost of £322 by the then incumbent, has a glebe of 560 statute acres.

The church, built in 1775 on a site three miles from the village, is a handsome edifice, yet, though spacious, it does not afford sufficient accommodation for the congregation during the summer months.

*****

POMEROY is the highest village in County Tyrone.

Central Bar, Pomeroy (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

Facing Altadesert parish church, opposite The Diamond, the Central Bar is celebrated locally as an establishment where a ghost is said to have haunted an attic at the beginning of the 20th century until the parish priest exorcised it.

The parish priest is said to have persuaded the rowdy spirit to enter a bottle, which was hastily corked and bricked into a wall in the back yard.

Londonderry Antiquities

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

REMAINS of its ancient inhabitants of every period are scattered over the county.

There is a cromlech at Slaghtmanus, another at Lettershandoney, a third at Slaghtaverty, and others at Ballynascreen: some had been surrounded by a circle of upright stones.

There are remains of sepulchral mounts or tumuli at Mullagh Cross, and a vast tumulus is seen at Dovine [sic], between Limavady and Coleraine, besides several of smaller dimensions.

Numerous cairns are met with in every quarter, especially on the summits of the mountains.

Near Dungiven is a very remarkable sepulchral pillar.

Dungiven Standing Stone (Hogg Collection/NMNI)

Raths or Danish forts are likewise scattered in chains in every direction, each being generally within sight of two others: the most remarkable is that called the Giant's Sconce, between the districts of Limavady and Coleraine.

Ditches enclosing spaces of from half a rood to several acres are also discernible contiguous to these forts.

There is a curious mound surrounded with a moat on the road from Springhill to Lough Neagh; and another, of larger size, at Dungorkin.

Ancient entrenchments of different character are seen at Prospect, and between Gortnagasan [sic] and Cahery.

Various coins, pins, rings, and forks have been found about a moat near Lough Neagh, and, among other ancient instruments, quern stones have often been discovered.

Hatchets made of hard basalt, spears of grey granite, and barbed arrowheads of flint are very frequently found.

Sometimes gold and silver coins, fibulae, and gorgets, with other ornaments, are dug up, but these are rare.

There are many artificial caverns, which seem to have been designed for the concealment of goods, of for the refuge of families in case of sudden attack: the sides are built of common land stones without cement, and the roof is composed of flags, or long stones, but the vault is seldom high enough for the passage of a man in a stooping posture; they consist sometimes of different galleries, and the mouth was most usually concealed by a rock or grassy sod.

Besides the remains of monastic institutions in the city of Londonderry, 17 others appear to have existed within the limits of the county; there are still remains of those situated respectively at Camus, Errigal, Tamlaghtfinlagan, Donnybrewer, and Dungiven, at the last of which are the most interesting of all the ecclesiastical ruins.

Banagher Old Church (Wikipedia)

Near the old church of Banagher is a monastic building almost entire.

There are few castles of Irish erection.

Ballyreagh, on a rocky cliff overhanging the sea, is said to have belonged to one of the MacQuillans; and a castle which stood near the church of Ballyaghran [Agherton] is reported to have been the abode of the chief of that sept.

There were several English castles, with bawns and flankers, built by the London companies, one at least in every proportion of allotment, but they are all in ruins, except Bellaghy, which is still occupied.

Fermanagh Antiquities

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

The number of Danish raths in all parts is very great, but none of them are peculiarly singular in their construction.

Tumuli also occur, surrounded with circles of upright stones; when opened, urns and stone coffins have been found in them.

At Wattlebridge, three miles from Newtownbutler, on the banks of the Finn, are the remains of a Druid temple [Annaghmore Glebe].

There are but few remains of monastic institutions: those of Devenish and Gola are the only structures in which traces of the original buildings can be discovered: the abbeys of Inishmacsaint, Cleenish, Kilskeery, and Rossorry have been converted into parish churches: those of Aredmuilt, Derough, Domnachmore (Donagh?), Inniscasin [sic], Iniseo, Inisrocha, and Loughuva [Lough Nahoo] are now known only by name.

About a mile from Pettigo stand the ruins of Castle Magrath, the residence of the first Protestant Bishop of Clogher [Miler Magrath], from whom the building took its name.

Lisgoole, a castle on the bank of the Rale [sic] opposite to Enniskillen, also suffered during the civil war of 1641, being burnt by the Irish.

The ruins of Callowhill Castle are near Florencecourt.

Castle Hume is now a pile of ruins.

Enniskillen, which was little more than a fort in ELIZABETH I's time, has since completely changed its character.

First published in January, 2024.

Fermanagh Rivers

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

THE only river of any consequence is the Erne, which, entering the county a short distance from Belturbet, flows into Lough Erne at its southern extremity, and, after passing Belleek at its northern extremity, discharges itself into Donegal Bay at Ballyshannon; all the other rivers empty themselves into Lough Erne.

River Erne at Belleek (Green Collection/NMNI)

The Finn is navigable for boats as far as Cumber Bridge, on the confines of Monaghan; the Pettigo and the  Omna rise near Lough Derg, in Donegal, and after uniting their streams fall into the lake a mile south of the town of Pettigo.

The Sillees rises near Church Hill, and takes a southern direction to the lake.

There are upwards of 50 smaller streams, all contributing to augment the waters of the great central reservoir.

The Ulster Canal, intended to unite Lough Neagh and Lough Erne, will enter this county from Monaghan, not far from Clones; thence proceeding towards Belturbet, it is to fall into Lough Erne.

The roads are numerous, but for the most part badly laid out; many of them are flooded during winter, exceedingly inconvenient, and kept in indifferent repair.

First published in December, 2023.

Londonderry Rivers

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

THE principal rivers are the Foyle, the Bann, the Roe, and the Faughan.

The Foyle, which derives its name from the smoothness of its current, intersects the liberties of the city of Derry, in a majestic course north-eastward, having descended from Lifford, where, after the union of several important streams, it first obtains its name.

At Culmore, six miles below the city, which it appears formerly to have insulated, it expands into the estuary of Lough Foyle.

The Bann, or "White River," so called from the purity of its waters, intersects the liberties of Coleraine, within four miles of its junction with the ocean; but the navigation is greatly obstructed by shallows and a very dangerous bar, where the currents of the fresh water and the tide meet.

The Roe, or "Red River," so called from the colour of its waters, receives at Dungiven the Owenreagh: hence, in its course directly north, it receives from the mountains on each side the Owenbeg, the Gelvin, the Balteagh, the Curly Burn, and the Castle River; and winding through the fertile flat by Limavady, it falls into Lough Foyle by Myroe.

The flat country bordering the lower part of its course is exposed to sudden and impetuous floods poured down from the surrounding mountains: many acres of the finest lands are with difficulty defended by embankments, and even with this protection the securing of the crop is never a matter of certainty.

The deposits brought down by this river form many shifting banks in the lough, which prevent its mouth from becoming a convenient little port, although there is sufficient depth of water at high tides.

The Faughan in its course receives numerous rills and streams from the surrounding heights, and falls into Lough Foyle.

The Moyola is a considerable stream descending into Lough Neagh.

The principal tributaries of the Bann are the Clady, Agivey, and Macosquin streams.

There are no canals connected with the county, but an inland navigation, either by a canal, or lateral cuts along the Bann, is contemplated from Lough Neagh to Coleraine, and a Bill is now being applied for, to enable the proprietors of the lands round the lough to lower it to a summer level, and thereby render the Bann navigable to Coleraine.

First published in December, 2023.

County Antrim Antiquities

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

THE remains of antiquity of earliest date consist of cairns or barrows, cromlechs, raths or entrenchments, and mountains differing in magnitude and form.

The most remarkable of the cairns is on Colin mountain, about three miles north of Lisburn; there is also one on Slieve True, to the west of Carrickfergus, and two on Collinward.

Near Carngraney [or Carn Greine], to the north-east of the old road from Belfast to Templepatrick, is the cromlech most worthy of especial notice: it has several table stones resting on numerous upright ones; and near it isa large mount; also several fortified posts different from all others in the county.

There is likewise a large cromlech at Mount Druid, near Ballintoy; another at the northern extremity of Islandmagee; and the Holestone, to the east of the road from Antrim to Glenavy, appears to be a relic of the Druids.

Mount Druid dolmen, near Ballintoy (Welch Collection/NMNI)

Of mountains, forts, and entrenchments, there is every variety which exists in Ireland; and so numerous are they, that the parishes of Killead and Muckamore alone contain 230, defended by one or more ramparts; and Donalds Carn is a fine specimen of this kind of earthwork.

Among the most remarkable of the rest are, one at Donegore, one at Kilconway, one at the Doagh water, one at Dunethery [Dunadry?], the last of which is planted with trees; one with a square outwork at Dunmakelter, in the parish of Culfeightrin; Dunmaul Fort; one at Cushendall, having a castle within its defences, and probably a Danish relic; one at Drumfane, on the Braid; one at Camlent Old-Church; and another in a bog near Ballykennedy; one near Connor has outworks exactly resembling that at Dromore, and in another near Carrickfergus have been found several Danish trumpets.

Stone hatchets or celts of various sizes have been discovered in several places, but in the greatest numbers near Ballintoy; arrowheads of flint, spearheads of brass, and numerous miscellaneous relics have been found.

There have also been discovered a Roman torc, a coin of Valentinian, fibulae, and other Roman antiquities, supposed to be relics of the spoil obtained by the Irish Scots in their plunder of South Britain, in alliance with the Picts.

Armoy round tower (Welch Collection/NMNI)

Of the singular round towers, the original purpose has been a fertile source of almost innumerable conjectures, there are at present four in this county; viz., one at Antrim, one on Ram's Island in Lough Neagh, a fragment of one near the old church at Trummery (between Lisburn and Moira), and one in the churchyard of Armoy.

Mervyn Archdall enumerates 48 religious establishments as having existed in this county, but adds that 20 of them are now unknown, and scarcely can the existence of half the entire number be now established by positive evidence.

There are still interesting remain of those of Bonamargy, Kells, Glenarm, Glynn, Muckamore, and Whiteabbey; and extensive ruins of other religious edifices, in the several townlands of Dundesert, Ballykennedy, and Carmavy, in the parish of Killead.

OF ancient fortresses, that of Carrickfergus, which has always been the strongest and most important, is the only one in complete preservation: there are interesting ruins of Greencastle; Olderfleet Castle; Castle Chichester; Red Bay Castle; Court Martin, near Cushendall.

Near the northern coast are likewise several old castles, some of which are very difficult of access, and must have been fortresses of great strength prior to the use of artillery: of these the principal are Dunluce, Dunseverick, Kenbane, Doonaninny, and Castle Carra; in Rathlin Island are the remains of Bruce's Castle.

Inland there are also many remains of fortified residences, of which Shane's Castle, the venerable seat of the O'Neills, was destroyed by fore in 1816.

Castle Upton is the only mansion of this kind at present habitable.

Lissanoure, on the banks of Lough Guile, is so called from an old fort in the vicinity.

Near the summit of White Mountain, two miles north of Lisburn, are the extensive remains of Castle Robin; and at Portmore, near Ballinderry, are similar remains.

Among the mansions of the nobility and gentry, few are splendid, though many are of considerable elegance.

First published in December, 2023.

Londonderry City Antiquities

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

IN addition to the ecclesiastical buildings was also a Franciscan mendicant friary of unknown foundation, with a churchyard containing about three acres, the site of which is now occupied by Abbey Street and others, and of which the foundations were discovered a few years ago by some workmen, but no vestiges of any of these buildings are now remaining.

The only religious house preserved on the erection of the new city was the church of St Augustine, which was repaired and used prior to the erection of the present cathedral, after which it was known as "the little church;" its site is now occupied by the Bishop's garden.

A small square tower was built by O'Doherty for O'Donnell in the 15th or 16th century.

Near the Roman Catholic chapel, outside the walls, are St Columba's wells, originally three in number and called by separate names, but of which one is dried up; but the water, though considered in remote parts of the island a specific for diseases of the eye, is here held in little repute.

In the centre of St Columba's Lane, adjacent to the wells, is St Columba's Stone, on each side of which are two oval hollows artificially formed, concerning which various legends are related; the water deposited by rain in these hollows is believed to possess a miraculous power in curing various diseases.

The shutting of the gates by the Apprentice Boys on December 7th, 1688, and the opening of them on August 12th following, have been annually commemorated, but the ceremony has been somewhat modified since 1832, in which year an Act was passed declaring such commemorations illegal; and have led to the establishment of three distinct clubs of Apprentice Boys, under different denominations.

George Farquhar, the dramatic poet, was born here in 1677; and the Rev William Hamilton, DD, author of "Letters concerning the North Coast of Antrim," and other productions of natural history, who was assassinated at the house of Dr Waller, at Sharon [Glebe], on March 2nd, 1797, was also a native of this place.

First published in December, 2023.

Tyrone Rivers

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

THE county is copiously watered by the numerous branches of the Foyle, which, under the names of the Munterloney, the Poe, the Mourne, the Camowen, the Owenkillew, and the Owenreagh, rise in the mountainous central districts: the Derg joins the Mourne from a lough of its own name; the Burn Dennet empties itself into the Foyle near the northern boundary of the county.

The Foyle, which forms part of the western boundary, is navigable to St Johnston, and thence by an artificial navigation between three and four miles farther up to Strabane.

The Ballinderry river forms part of the north-eastern boundary.

Ballinderry River at Coagh Bridge (Green Collection/NMNI)

The Blackwater, which forms part of the southern boundary, and discharges itself into Lough Neagh, is navigable to Moy and Blackwatertown: near the mouth of this river a canal proceeds from the lake to Coalisland, and more than half a century since was partially opened above Newmills, but this latter part of the undertaking was abandoned before the canal was completed.

The beauty of the scenery in several parts is much enhanced by woods and plantations.

Large tracts of land near Baronscourt, and Rash or Mountjoy Forest, have been planted since 1795.

Near Augher and Favour Royal there are considerable natural woods, and throughout the greater part of the county the soil appears disposed to throw up a spontaneous growth of timber, but in too many instances the young trees are neglected and the cattle suffered to browse upon them.

Near Strabane are many large and well-stocked orchards.

First published in December, 2023.

Belfast Antiquities

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

THERE are no remains of antiquity in the town, though some are scattered over the parish: near Stranmillis, on the Lagan, was an ancient chapel, called Capella de Kilpatrick; on the summit of a hill on Upper Malone was the Capella de Crookmuck.

Near Callender's Fort, on the Falls Road, about two miles from the town, was that of Cranock, of which traces of the foundations and a large cemetery are still remaining; and on the same road, the chapel of Kilwee, where numerous elegantly carved crosses and other sepulchral monuments have been found.

About three miles on the Carrickfergus road is a small fragment of an ancient fortress, called Greencastle; in Upper Malone was an extensive fort called Castle Cam, or Freeston Castle, on the site of which the elegant mansion of Malone House has been erected.

At a small distance on the left of the road to Shaw's Bridge are seen the foundations of a third fort; in the grounds of Malone, near Lismoyne, are the remains of a fourth; and in the burial ground at Friar's Bush are the remains of a fifth.

AMONG the most curious relics of antiquity are the caves in various places formed in the earth and in the hard limestone rock; of the former, three were discovered in 1792 at Wolf Hill.

On the side of a small hill on the townland of Ballymagarry is one of larger dimensions; and near Hannahstown is one still larger, which since 1798 has been closed, having at that time been a place of concealment for arms.

Three large caves, which give name to the mountain called Cavehill, are all formed in the perpendicular face of an immense range of basaltic rock.

THE large ramparts of earth, called raths, or forts, are also numerous: of these the most extensive is McArt's Fort, on the summit of Cavehill, protected on one side by a precipice, and on the others by a single ditch of great depth and a vallum of large dimensions.

Near the base of Squires Hill are many smaller raths, and two of large dimensions almost on the summit of Black Mountain; and near the shore, at Fortwilliam, is an encampment, 70 feet square, surrounded by a deep fosse and defended by a bastion at each angle, and said to have been thrown up by WILLIAM III in 1690; near it is another entrenchment of ruder construction.

There are two large cairns on Black Mountain, in one of which, in 1829, was found a large urn filled with calcined human bones, a spear head, and two ornaments of brass; there is also a cairn on Cavehill, and one on Squires Hill.

Great numbers of stone and flint hatchets, and arrow heads of flint, have been discovered; and brazen celts and quern-stones, or hand millstones, are occasionally found. 

Drumbo

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

DRUMBO, or Drumboe, a parish, in the barony of Upper Castlereagh, County Down, four miles from Lisburn, on the River Lagan, and on the old road to Belfast.

Twelve townlands of the ancient parish having been lately annexed to Drumbeg, it now comprises 9629 statute acres, chiefly arable, with a very small proportion of woodland, and, except lands belonging to gentlemen who farm their own property, in a very indifferent state of cultivation, though lately much improved: there is a large tract of bog.

The weaving of cotton is carried on for the manufacturers of Belfast; and at Edenderry is a bleach-green.

The Lagan opens a communication with Belfast, Lisburn, and Lough Neagh.

Belvedere House (Image: Belfast Live)

The principal seats are Edenderry, the residence of W Russell; Edenderry House, of C Dunlop; Belvedere, of A Durham; New Grove, of J Russell; and the elegant lodge and greater part of the demesne of Purdysburn, the splendid residence of Narcissus Batt.

The living is a rectory, in the diocese of Down, and in the patronage of the Bishop; the tithes amount to £517.

The glebe house was built in 1816; the glebe comprises 6½ acres.

Drumbo Presbyterian Church (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

The church, a handsome Grecian edifice with a lofty tower surmounted by a copper dome, was erected in 1788, by subscription, aided by a grant of £500 from the Board of First Fruits, a donation of 150 guineas from Mr Hull, of Belvedere, and of 100 guineas from the Marquess of Downshire.

There are places of worship for Presbyterians, Independents, and Methodists.

Ballymacbrennan schoolhouse (Image: Belfast Telegraph)

Nearly 600 children are educated in the several public schools of the parish; that at Purdysburn was built at the expense of Mr Batt, who supports the school and also provides residences for the master and mistress, who have about 150 pupils; and the master of a school at Ballymacbrennan receives £20 per annum from the trustees of Erasmus Smith's fund, and has an acre of land given by the Marquess of Downshire.

There are also six private schools, in which there are about 400 children.

Giant's Ring: image of a painting in the Welch Collection/NMNI

Not far from the parish church is the Giant's Ring, a circular entrenchment enclosing more than eight plantation acres, perfectly level; in the centre of the enclosure is a large cromlech, or Druids' altar, consisting of seven upright stones supporting a table stone of nearly circular form and sloping towards the east: the land is now let, and the earthwork is being removed for the purpose of cultivation.

Drumbo ca 1830 (historic OS map).  Click to enlarge

In the burial ground close to the supposed site of the ancient church was an abbey, said to have been founded by St Patrick, and of which St Mochumna was the first abbot; there is also an ancient round tower.

Drumbo Round Tower (Timothy Ferres, 2024)

In the parish are eight large raths, the most conspicuous of which, on the summit of Tullyard, is constructed of earth, loose stones, and vitrified substances, similar to the cairns of Scotland.

It is supposed by some writers that there was anciently a fortified town here.