Finnebrogue Soirée

Having just returned from glorious Rathlin Island, I donned the glad rags last night for a charity soirée at FINNEBROGUE HOUSE, a mere hop, skip, and jump from Downpatrick, county town of County Down.

Actually I killed two birds with one stone, as it were.

When I visited Ballydugan and HOLLYMOUNT a few months ago, Margaret Ferguson of the Lakeside Inn had left a note on my windscreen to apprise me that she had information for me pertaining to Hollymount House and its history.

Whereas Finnebrogue is a few miles north-west of Downpatrick, Ballydugan is a couple of miles to the south-west.

Close Enough with Guests (Image: © Declan Roughan Photography, 2021)

My visit to Finnebrogue House was for a charity concert in aid of Hope For Youth Northern Ireland.

Close Enough barbershop quartet entertained us all in the entrance hall of the house.

(Image: © Declan Roughan Photography, 2021)

When I sat down I could hardly believe who was seated beside me - Philip Shirley, of LOUGH FEA, County Monaghan, whom I'd met during a visit to his stately home in County Monaghan.

He told me that they were driving back to Lough Fea that evening.

(Image: © Declan Roughan Photography, 2021)

During the interval I met quite a few interesting guests including, of course, our terrific host, Noel Lamb; Danny Kinahan, LORD & LADY ERNE, JOHNNY ANDREWS; the Armstrongs (of DEAN'S HILL, Armagh); the Montgomerys (of GREY ABBEY). I also saw the HON SHANE O'NEILL, General Sir Mike Jackson; the FITZGERALDS (Randox); and ninety others!

General Sir Michael Jackson GCB CBE DSO (Image: © Declan Roughan Photography, 2021)

We were served tasty little canapés comprising smoked salmon, and cocktail sausages on sticks.

Noel Lamb DL presenting a cheque (Image: © Declan Roughan Photography, 2021)

The show concluded about eight-thirty, so I thanked Noel for his kind hospitality, bade him farewell, and slipped off in the car, in a south-westerly direction for Ballydugan.

The car-park of the Lakeside Inn is beside an utterly delightful, picturesque lake - Ballydugan Lake.

Inside the inn a cheery fire greeted me, radiating heat.

This inn is no ordinary pub: it's homely and cosy, delightfully and unashamedly old-fashioned. I love it.

Margaret Ferguson, the proprietor, welcomed me cordially and introduced me to a pal of hers seated near the fire.

She had a copy of the history of Hollymount, an old and historic estate beside Ballydugan, long associated with the Price family (now Perceval-Price of SAINTFIELD HOUSE).

We all discussed the subject, the families in the district, including the TORRENS-SPENCES who used to live at Drumcullen House, Hollymount.

When I got up to leave I remarked that I wished Margaret's lovely inn were only a bit closer to me!

Rathlin Island Walks

Prospect of Rathlin's Harbour from the Manor House (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

I last stayed on Rathlin Island four years ago, in August, 2017; its allure is quite irresistible to me.

The island's population has doubled in my lifetime, and now totals about 170.

Not so long ago the little primary school had eight pupils; whereas today that figure has increased to almost twenty.

My journey began at Ballycastle, County Antrim, where I embarked upon the ten o'clock vehicle ferry for the 45-minute sailing to Church Bay, Rathlin's nucleus.

I should explain that there are two ferries: a fast one, which takes merely 15 or 20 minutes; and a slower one, which can take vehicles.

I stayed at the manor house guest-house, ancestral home of the GAGES, landlords and proprietors of Rathlin Island since the mid-18th century.

I think they purchased the island from the Earl of Antrim for the princely sum of £1,750, the equivalent of about £400,000 today. Quite a bargain!

During my stay on the island I encountered quite a few interesting people.

Since I've already wrote a bit about the MANOR HOUSE GUEST-HOUSE in 2017, I propose to recount one or two of my walks.

On Tuesday, August 17th, I walked eleven and a half miles, from the manor house in a westerly direction to the Kinramer North and Kebble South trails.

I began my walks from the manor house, which is directly opposite the main harbour.

The weather was inclement during most of my stay, so I wore my 1990s pair of Raichle hiking boots, with waterproof over-trousers and anorak; and a little backpack with binoculars, something to drink, directions, etc.

By the way, the old hiking boots gave me trouble: one of my ankles was sore, and the boots were leaking (subsequently I purchased a new pair of Salomon Quest Four hiking-boots). 

On Wednesday, August 18th, I decided to ramble from my accommodation at the manor house towards the East Lighthouse and Ballyconaghan.

Former Pigeon-House beside the Manor House
(Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

As I passed the former coach-yard, attached to the manor house, I peered in and under the arch, to the left, the former pigeon-house could be seen.

What is now the island's health centre, at the other side of the arch, was once a livestock barn.

Just past the health centre there's a former coal-yard, which also has an arch and matching doors; and a distinctive carved stone erected by the Rev Robert Gage in 1816.

I walked further along Church Bay and turned left at McCuaig's Bar, up a short, steep road to a junction, where I turned right.

This used to be a busy thoroughfare on the island, with a grocer's shop, the rectory, the police station, a public house, and the smithy.

The former police station, I suspect, is on private land, so I didn't venture towards it; though I believe that it was originally called Ballynoe House, and was the residence of the MacDonnells, Earls of Antrim, who sold Rathlin to the Gages.

The Glebe House, Rathlin Island (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

The Glebe House, as it's now known, was once the rectory.

The last rector to reside there, I think, was the Rev George James Boucher, Rector of St Thomas's from 1950-56.

The Gages have been using it as their island residence since about 1975.

The former Smithy, Rathlin Island (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

A bit further along the road I passed the smithy or forge, where the resident blacksmith made and repaired cartwheels, nails, and shod horses.

After ten or fifteen minutes I came to a clachan or cluster of three houses up a short lane.

These dwellings belonged to the McQuilkins and the Cecils. 

The McQuilkin and Cecil Clachan (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

They're all derelict and quite dilapidated, though not beyond restoration; the first house on the left probably being the most recent building. 

HAVING had a brief look through the closed gates of the East Lighthouse, I turned back along the track, and made my way to the National Trust trail.

Eventually I reached another clachan of four cottages at Crocknanagh, where more McQuilkins and Currys lived.

The Crocknanagh Clachan (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

I'm told that the McQuilkins had a pretty little walled garden under the tree, where colourful shrubs thrived.

I've already written about the coastguard hut at the top of Cantruan hill and, on this occasion, I decided to omit it from my walk; so I walked back to the tarmac road, down a gently sloping incline, and walked past the Catholic church of the Immaculate Conception, built in 1864 to replace an older church.

Part of the interior wall of the previous church remains behind the present one; and a series of steps lead up to the relatively modern 1980s parochial house.

No parish priests have lived here permanently since 1999.

The former Pound, Rathlin Island (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

Directly opposite the church is the children's playground, originally a small field where stray animals were impounded by the landlords, the Gages.

Anybody who owned one of these stray animals was compelled to pay a fee for its release; a considerable deterrent I imagine!

The Parochial Hall, Rathlin Island (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

Beside the playground is the parochial hall, built about a century ago; and further along is the primary school, which had a mere eight pupils five or six years ago.

Today numbers are increasing, and I'm told that there are up to twenty children.

When they reach the age of eleven, they need to attend classes on the mainland. 

Former Shop opposite the School (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

On the other side of the road is a tiny one-storey building with two large windows and a door.

It was closed when I saw it, though I peered inside and it seems to be an artist's studio of some sort.

It was originally a little general merchant's shop.

Islanders were generally self-sufficient in fruit and vegetables, eggs, and dairy produce.

Certainly there's a lot to explore on Rathlin.

The Cooraghy Bay pier could be developed as an industrial tourist attraction, for instance.

This pier was constructed in order to convey building materials for the new West Lighthouse about 1910.

Abandoned Pier at Cooraghy Bay (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

From the top of the cliff, a series of steep concrete steps, with a single hand-rail, lead down towards the pier, though they terminate suddenly not far down the cliff, making it hazardous to attempt the descent today.

An ingenious method of hauling the building materials up was conceived with, quite literally, horse-power, winches, a derrick, and rail lines.

I purchased a very good guide called Eight Walks On Rathlin Island, written by Nicky Sebastian in 2018.

I bought it in the manor house, and heartily recommend it.

1st Earl of Lucan

THE EARLS OF LUCAN WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY MAYO, WITH 60,570 ACRES

The family of BINGHAM is of Saxon origin, and of very great antiquity. It was originally seated at Sutton Bingham, Somerset; from whence it removed, during the reign of WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, to Melcombe Bingham, Dorset. 

RALPH DE BINGHAM, of Sutton Bingham, Somerset, descended from Sir John de Bingham, Knight, during the reign of HENRY I, had issue two sons,

RALPH, his heir;

Robert (1180-1246), Bishop of Salisbury.

The elder son,

RALPH DE BINGHAM, of Sutton Bingham, who left, with other issue, a younger son,

ROBERT BINGHAM, who held lands in the manor of West Stafford, 1246, married Lucy, daughter and heiress of Robert Turberville, and had issue a son,

ROBERT BINGHAM, of Melcombe Bingham, Dorset, who wedded Eleanor, daughter of Sir Andrew Wake, and died in 1307, having had issue,

RICHARD BINGHAM, of Melcombe, who married Pernell, daughter of Sir Galfrid Warnhill, and died in 1317, having had issue,

ROBERT BINGHAM, of Melcombe, born about 1295, who wedded Catherine, daughter of Sir Thomas Aston, and had issue,

RICHARD BINGHAM, of Melcombe, who espoused Catherine, daughter of Thomas Silvester, and died ante 1404, having had issue,

ROBERT BINGHAM, of Melcombe, who married Margaret, daughter of John Frampton, and died in 1431.  

This gentleman's direct lineal descendant,

ROBERT BINGHAM, of Melcombe, wedded Alice, daughter of Thomas Coker, of Mappowder, in Dorset, and had (with two daughters), eight sons, viz.

ROBERT, ancestor of Bingham of Melcombe Bingham;
Christopher;
RICHARD, of whom hereafter;
GEORGE (Sir), Knight;
Roger, dsp;
John (Sir), Knight, an officer in Ireland;
Thomas;
Charles.

The third son,

SIR RICHARD BINGHAM (1528-99), Knight, of Melcombe, Dorset, became the most eminent person of his family, and one of the most celebrated captains of the age in which he lived.

At the time of the armada, Sir Richard was one of ELIZABETH I's military council.

He was instrumental in reducing insurrections in Ireland, in 1586, 1590, and 1593, and was eventually constituted marshal of that kingdom, and general of Leinster.

Sir Richard died at Dublin soon after attaining these honours, leaving an only daughter, when the representation of the family in Ireland devolved upon  his nephew,

HENRY BINGHAM (1573-c1658), of Castlebar, County Mayo (son of George Bingham, Governor of Sligo, who was killed by Ensign Ulick Burgh, ca 1596, which Ulick delivered up to the castle of O'Donnell and his adherents).

He was created a baronet in 1634, designated of Castlebar, County Mayo.

Sir Henry wedded Miss Byrne, of Cabinteely, near Dublin, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR GEORGE BINGHAM, 2nd Baronet (1625-82), father of

SIR HENRY BINGHAM, 3rd Baronet (1654-1714), at whose decease, without issue, the titles devolved upon his half-brother,

SIR GEORGE, 4th Baronet, who was succeeded at his decease by his eldest son,

SIR JOHN BINGHAM, 5th Baronet (1696-1749), Governor and MP for County Mayo, who espoused Anne, daughter of Agmondisham Vesey, grandniece of the celebrated general (in the army of JAMES II) Patrick Sarsfield, Earl of Lucan, who fell at the battle of Landen, in Flanders; and great-granddaughter of CHARLES II, through His Majesty's illegitimate daughter, sister of the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth.

Sir John was an officer of rank on the side of JAMES II at the decisive conflict of Aughrim, and contributed to the success of WILLIAM III by deserting his colours in the very brunt of the battle.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR JOHN BINGHAM, 6th Baronet (1730-50), MP for County Mayo; but dying unmarried, the title devolved upon his brother,

SIR CHARLES BINGHAM, 7th Baronet (1735-99), MP for County Mayo, who was elevated to the peerage, in 1776, in the dignity of Baron Lucan, of Castlebar.

His lordship was advanced to the dignity of an earldom, in 1795, as EARL OF LUCAN.

He wedded, in 1760, Margaret, daughter and sole heir of John Smith, of Cannons Leigh, Devon, and Audries, Somerset, and had issue,

RICHARD, his successor;
Lavinia; Margaret; Anne.

His lordship was succeeded by his son,

RICHARD, 2nd Earl (1764-1839), who espoused, in 1794, the Lady Elizabeth Belasyse, third daughter and co-heir of Henry, 2nd Earl Fauconberg.

• Richard Bingham, 2nd Earl (1764–1839);
• George Charles Bingham, 3rd Earl (1800–88);
• Charles George Bingham, 4th Earl (1830–1914);
• George Charles Bingham, 5th Earl (1860–1949);
• George Charles Patrick Bingham, 6th Earl (1898–1964);
• Richard John Bingham, 7th Earl (b 1934, missing since 1974, presumed dead; death cert. issued 2016);
• George Charles Bingham, 8th Earl (b 1967).

The heir presumptive is the present Earl's son, Charles Lars John, styled Lord Bingham, born in 2020.

7th Earl of Lucan

The 7th Earl has been missing since 1974, and is presumed dead. A death certificate was issued in 2016.

*****

Despite being owners of one of the largest estates in County Mayo, the Lucans were mainly absentee landlords, pursuing political and military careers elsewhere while their Mayo estates were administered by agents.

By the 19th century their estate was concentrated in the parishes of Aglish, Turlough and Ballyhean in the barony of Carra; Ballinrobe in the barony of Kilmaine; Killedan in the barony of Gallen; Kilmaclasser in the barony of Burrishoole; Oughaval and Kilgeever in the barony of Murrisk.

From, 1898, parts of the Lucan estate began to be sold to the Irish Congested Districts' Board.

In 1905, over 40,000 acres were purchased by the Board for a cost of over £100,000. In 1911, another 10,000 acres were bought.

The Lucan Estates company was set up in 1925.

The Earls of Lucan also owned an estate of over 1,000 acres at Laleham in Middlesex, now a golf club.

Its history is here.

Castlebar House, the County Mayo seat of the Lucans, was first burnt in 1798.

It was said to be

"romantically situated on the brow of a steep eminence overhanging the river, and attached to it is an extensive and well-wooded demesne, affording a pleasant promenade to the inhabitants of the town."

When resident in Castlebar during the 19th century, the Lucans lived in the lodge known as The Lawn (below), described in the Ordnance Survey Field Name Books as the residence of St Clair O'Malley, who was agent to the Earls of Lucan in the 1830s.

Castlebar House is referred to as the seat of the Earls of Lucan in 1894.

It was sold by the family ca 1920.

It became a convent but was subsequently burnt again.

The Earls of Lucan were seated at Laleham Abbey (or House), Surrey, from 1805-1928.

First published in January, 2012.

Hillsborough Fort Guard Revival

One of my earliest articles on this blog was about the HILL family, Earls of Hillsborough and Marquesses of Downshire.

I have also written quite a lot about the splendid village of HILLSBOROUGH, Royal Hillsborough as it will formally be known later in the year.

My invitation stated Robes, Uniforms, Lounge Suit; Medals, Decorations optional; so I wore a lounge suit.

I thought, a week ago, that I'd need to wear a hat to protect my head from the blazing sun; this requirement was, however, unnecessary. It was mainly overcast, with occasional drizzle.

If anything, I omitted to bring an umbrella.

IN 1660, CHARLES II granted a Royal Charter to HILLSBOROUGH FORT, County Down.

Coat-of-arms of Wills, 1st Marquess of Downshire,
created Baron Harwich in 1756

This fort was erected by the Hill family, and its purpose was to maintain a military presence in the district.

Moreover, this Royal Charter also bestowed the title of Hereditary Constable of Hillsborough Fort on Colonel Arthur Hill, his successors, and assigns.

Furthermore, Colonel Hill was entitled to raise and maintain a Guard of twenty troops to occupy the fort.

The duty of these Fort Warders was to guard the military garrison between Dublin and Carrickfergus.

The Fort Guard remained at full strength until the early 20th century, when government payments ended.

In 1954, the last surviving Warder, a First World War veteran, Jack Green, died and, in order to keep the tradition alive, the 7th Marquess of Downshire decided to retain the post of Fort Bugler.

This post remains to this day, and Fort Bugler Andrew Carlisle has held it since 2006.

Sergeant Bugler Andrew Carlisle & Mark Thompson
(Image: Hilary Thompson)

Recently it was felt, quite appropriately to my mind, that this historic tradition should be revived under the guidance of the 9th and present Marquess of Downshire.

The local historical and cultural society, the Hillsborough Old Guard, provided six period uniforms replicated from the original pattern, and has also provided assistance in the recruitment of new Fort Warders.

I was invited to the investiture ceremony and morning review of the Hillsborough Fort Guard on Saturday morning, the 31st July, 2021.

Mark Thompson and Self (Image: Hilary Thompson)

I arrived perhaps ten minutes or so before the ceremony began, and was delighted to encounter my friends Stanley Gamble and Mark and Hilary Thompson.

The Most Hon the Marquess and Marchioness of Downshire and Self
(Image: Rev Dr Stanley Gamble CF)

Stanley introduced me to Lord and Lady Downshire, which afforded me the opportunity to present Lord Downshire with a small token of my esteem on what was a historic event.

The Rev Dr Stanley Gamble, CF, with Mark & Hilary Thompson (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

At ten o'clock, there was a bugle fanfare, and the hereditary Constable, Colonel the Most Hon the Marquess of Downshire, arrived, accompanied by the Marchioness of Downshire.

We, the spectators, all stood on the front lawn of the Fort.

Lord and Lady Downshire in the Parade (Image: Alan Ewart, 2021)

Following a general salute, we were addressed by Lord Downshire; the Royal Charter of 1660 was proclaimed; the Chaplain, the Rev Dr Stanley Gamble, CF, led prayers and blessing.

This ceremony was followed by the investiture and the signing of warrants by the new Fort Warders.

The Mayor & Mayoress of Lisburn and Castlereagh with Self
(Image: Rev Dr Stanley Gamble CF, 2021)

Lord Downshire gave a closing address, with a response by the Right Worshipful the Mayor, Alderman Stephen Martin.

Hillsborough Fort Guard in front of the Fort (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

The Fort Guard was inspected, there were closing prayers and, following the National Anthem, the parade marched off.

The Parade Appointments were as follows:-

• Reviewing Officer, Colonel the Most Hon the Marquess of Downshire
• Parade Chaplain, the Rev Dr Stanley Gamble CF
• Parade Sergeant-Major, HFG Sergeant-Major P F Shields VR
• Parade Bugler, HFG Sergeant Andrew Carlisle
• Parade Drummer, Colour Sergeant G Chambers, Irish Guards
• Parade Fifer, Colour Sergeant P Carson, Irish Guards
• Sergeant-at-Arms, Mr Colin Ward

Guard members on parade:-

• HFG Corporal Simon Walker
• HFG Corporal Robert Finn
• HFG Warder Alan Finn
• HFG Warder Charles Diett
• HFG Warder Jackie McQuillan

The Irish Guard musicians were in attendance by kind permission of Lieutenant-Colonel R P Money, Commanding Officer, 1st Battalion, Irish Guards.

The Most Hon the Marquess of Downshire, Hereditary Constable,
Hillsborough Fort Guard (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2021)

The end of the ceremony gave us an opportunity to meet others, including a former fellow Young Unionist, the Right Hon Sir Jeffrey Donaldson MP.

I should explain that four decades ago Jeffrey and I belonged to the Young Unionists, a branch of the Ulster Unionist Party. 

We used to meet at the party GHQ in Glengall Street, behind the Grand Opera House.

Jeffrey did remember me, and we reminisced a bit about the days of the Rt Hon Enoch Powell MBE MP, who represented South Down in parliament.

I left the UUP very many years ago, and indeed politics.

It was a great honour to be present at Hillsborough Fort yesterday, and I'd only wish to express my gratitude to everybody who made the occasion possible and so memorable.