Scarvagh House

THE REILLYS OWNED 920 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY DOWN

This branch of the ancient Milesian house of REILLY, PRINCES OF EAST BREFFNY, discontinued the prefix 'O'.

TURLOGH O'REILLY, youngest son of Edmund O'Reilly, of Kilnacroft, Prince of East Breffny, had two children,

BRIAN;
John.

The elder son,

BRIAN O'REILLY, had two sons, viz.

JOHN, of Belfast;
Miles, an army captain.

The former was father of

MILES O'REILLY (1661-1735), of Lurgan, County Armagh, who wedded Jane Ackens, and had issue,

John, dsp;
James, dsp;
Charles;
Marlow;
JOHN, of whom hereafter.

Mr Reilly was succeeded by his youngest son,

JOHN REILLY, of Scarvagh, County Down, who espoused, in 1738, Lucy, daughter of Francis Savage, of Ardkeen, County Down, and was father of

JOHN REILLY (1745-1804), of Scarvagh, Chief Commissioner of Public Accounts, MP for Blessington, 1779-1800, High Sheriff of County Down, 1776, County Armagh, 1786, who married, in 1773, Jane, daughter and co-heir of Colonel William Lushington, of Sittingbourne, Kent, and had issue,

JOHN LUSHINGTON, his heir;
William Edmond;
James miles;
Jane Hester; Amelia; Elizabeth.

John Reilly MP (Image: Ulster Museum)

Mr Reilly was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN LUSHINGTON REILLY (1775-1840), of Scarvagh, High Sheriff of County Down, 1810, who wedded, in 1807, Louisa, second daughter of Gustavus Handcock Temple, of Watertown, County Westmeath, and had issue,

JOHN TEMPLE, his heir;
Gustavus Handcock, an army officer, 1813-41;
Robert Lushington, captain, East India Company;
William Charles, 1819-45;
Charles Myles Townsend;
Isabella Elizabeth; Jane Lushington; Louisa Mary; Gertrude Harriet;
Mary Amelia; Frances Lucy; Charlotte Moore.

Mr Reilly was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN TEMPLE REILLY JP DL (1812-1903), of Scarvagh, High Sheriff of County Down, 1845, who wedded, in 1865, Elizabeth, daughter of James O'Hara, of Lenaboy, County Galway, by his wife Anne, daughter of the Most Rev and Hon Power le Poer Trench, Lord Archbishop of Tuam, and had issue,

John Temple Miles, 1867-68;
GUSTAVUS MILES O'HARA;
John Temple James, died in infancy;
Anne Elizabeth.

GUSTAVUS MILES O'HARA REILLY, of Scarvagh House, 1869-1909.

SCARVAGH HOUSE, Scarva, County Down, was built in the early to mid-18th century and has undergone several phases of addition and renovation since that time.

The House is associated with the Reilly family, founders of Scarva village and original hosts of the annual Scarva "Sham Fight", commemorating the battle of the Boyne.

It comprises two storeys with two-storey wings extending forwards, thus forming a three-sided entrance court.

The present house is thought to have been built ca 1717 by Myles Reilly, originally intended as offices (a house was to be erected in front).

The house was altered in the mid-19th century by John Temple Reilly.

The elevations are plain, excepting a two-storey Jacobean-style porch with a curvilinear gable in the centre range, flanked by two oriels and dormer gables.

The wings terminate with square, battlemented towers.

The porch is of golden stone; the remainder of the house rendered.

The entrance gates and gate lodge at the Scarva end of the property were added between 1834-60, together with a long entrance driveway leading to the house.

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A local legend states that, in recognition of his services to the Williamite army in the 1690s, Reilly was given as much land as he could walk and plant with acorns in a day.

Harris wrote in 1744,

North-west of Loughbrickland about two miles is a house and good improvements of Mr John Reilly, standing pleasantly on a rising ground near the new canal and Scarvagh Bridge...Mr Reilly has a view of forming a village near this bridge where coal-yards and store houses are preparing and for this end has obtained a patent for fairs and markets.

There is a salt-works carried on in partnership between Mr Reilly, Mr Cherry and Mr Steers of Liverpool, the latter of whom has the salt rock on his own land and sends the same by water carriage to Scarvagh.

Scarva village had been established by the Reillys by 1746.

John Lushington Reilly is thought to have been responsible for much of the present appearance of Scarvagh House.

The Archaeological Survey of County Down, which carries a plan of additions and alterations to Scarvagh House, suggests that Lushington Reilly built two double-height wings onto the original main block in the early nineteenth century forming a forecourt to the original house.

Interior alterations in a Gothic-Revival style were carried out within the main block and an extension was added to the north west. Between 1834-60, the south facade of the main block was remodelled in a Jacobean style and internal decoration in contemporary style took place.

Dimensions are given for the house, including the new porch, four two-storey outbuildings, one single-storey outbuilding and gate houses.

The 1901 census lists the occupant as

John Temple Reilly JP, DL, who lives with his Galway wife, his daughter, sister, niece and three servants, a cook, a housemaid and a kitchen maid. The house has sixteen rooms, twenty outbuildings and is of the first class.

Subsequent occupiers were Sir John Tuthing [sic], 1905; and Henry Thomson MP, 1906.

In 1911, Mr Thomson was living in the house with his wife, a nurse and three servants.

Henry Thomson died in 1916 while still resident at Scarvagh House, and the house was taken over by a relative, possibly a son, Henry B Thomson, in 1926.

Scarvagh House was acquired by Alfred Buller before the 2nd World War, and Mr Buller was happy to continue opening the grounds each year for the Sham Fight.

William Buller, of Scarva, has been a well-known racing driver.

The most recent historic map dating from 1960s/70s shows that numerous outbuildings have been added to the site in the vicinity of the main house.

Other recent work has included the refurbishment of the east and west wings for rental purposes.

A strong tradition exists that WILLIAM III camped under a tree that later became enclosed by Scarva demesne, on his way to the Boyne in 1659; and due, in part, to this association, Scarva demesne has become the scene of the annual Sham Fight, a mock reconstruction of the battle of the Boyne that takes place on the 13th July every year.

The Sham Fight forms the centrepiece of a Royal Black Preceptory parade, when the villagers of Scarva are joined by tens of thousands of visitors from Ulster and elsewhere.

The mock battle, played out over 30 minutes, ends when the green standard of JAMES II is cornered and lowered by the red-shirted Williamite soldiers.

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THE HOUSE lies on a south-facing ridge, with excellent views to Lough Shark and distant hills beyond.

The demesne contains mature avenue, parkland and woodland trees.

There are well-maintained ornamental gardens at the house.

The walled garden was latterly an orchard but is no longer cultivated.

There are grand gate pillars at the village entrance, and a lodge built ca 1870 at the North Gate.

First published in July, 2014.

Cairndhu House

CAIRNDHU HOUSE, near Larne, County Antrim, was built for Mr Stewart Clark at some stage after 1878.

Mr Clark was a wealthy Scottish textile industrialist. He married Annie (daughter of John Smiley and sister of SIR HUGH HOUSTON SMILEY Bt). Their daughter Edith married Sir Thomas Dixon in 1906. 

Cairndhu comprises two storeys and many gables; though it's style is vaguely Oriental, given that it boasts ornate, openwork bargeboards and an elaborate wooden veranda and balcony running for most of the frontage.

The house was later extended, in 1897-8, to the designs of Samuel P Close.

A collection of small buildings were on the site, presumably a farm, which in 1857 was called Seaview, the property of Robert Agnew.

Mr Clark bought Seaview in 1878, and would appear to have rebuilt it rather than remodelled or extended it, as there is now no trace of any earlier buildings.

The architect of the initial phase of Clark's building may have been Mr Close.

Cairndhu was extended by Mr Clark at various times, the last time reportedly being in 1906.

Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon purchased Cairndhu in 1918.

They added the servants' dining hall.

In 1947, the Dixons donated the house and 162 acres of land to the Northern Ireland Hospitals Authority. 

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SIR THOMAS DIXON, 2nd Baronet, married Edith, youngest daughter of Mr Stewart Clark, of Dundas Castle, South Queensferry, Scotland, and Cairndhu, in 1906, at Dalmeny Church, South Queensferry.

Edith Clark was the sister of Sir John Stewart-Clark, 1st Baronet.

After their marriage, the Dixons lived for varying periods at Graymount House, Hillsborough Castle, Drumadarragh, Luttrelstown, and Lucan, before purchasing Lady Dixon’s childhood summer residence, Cairndhu.

The estate increased in size to nearly 500 acres when the adjoining properties of Droagh (formerly Sir Edward Coey’s estate) and Carnfunnock (William Chaine’s property) were purchased.

The Dixon family held many house and garden parties and entertained public dignitaries with grouse shooting in the Antrim Hills. 

More improvements were made to the house including the servants' dining hall.

The house was beautiful and Cairndhu had a large workforce, with 20 indoors staff, kitchen staff, ladies maids and upstairs staff .

Sir Thomas occupied his time with livestock farming, including a herd of dairy cows.

The farm office, stables and cattle byres were based at Hillhead Farm, now the clubhouse of Cairndhu Golf Club. 

Mr. Frank Brownlow was responsible for looking after the extensive herds of cattle and sheep at Carnfunnock, Cairndhu and hill land at Ballyboley.

He travelled to auctions all over Ireland to purchase cattle for Sir Thomas and managed the farm at Cairndhu. 

The land at Cairndhu was used for grazing cattle, mainly Shorthorns and Galloway cattle, which were bred for beef.

Two or three mornings per week they would inspect the cattle together and if Mr Brownlow pointed out to Sir Thomas that neighbouring farms were for sale, such as Droagh Farm, Sir Thomas would buy them and knock down hedges to have his fields extended for grazing. 

Sir Thomas often had his chauffeur, Sandy Moreland, drive him round the fields in his yellow and black Rolls-Royce to see his cattle, land stewards and head gardeners.

There were twenty-two gardeners and estate workers. 

In 1937, when Carnfunnock was merged with Cairndhu, Mr Brownlow was responsible for the management of the whole estate, which consisted of 500 acres.

In September, 1939, at the outbreak of World War II, Sir Thomas, as Mayor of Larne (1939-41), handed over his Larne residence for use as a War Hospital Supply Depot and organised the YMCA canteen at the harbour. 

Lady Dixon was president of the Ulster Fund and War Hospital Supply Depot for Serving Forces (Larne Depot) with donations requested in October 1939 to purchase necessary materials.

Sir Thomas provided his land, though he and Lady Dixon were able to live independently in Cairndhu without being affected.

The Carnfunnock walled garden grew cabbage, cauliflower and other vegetables that were used in Cairndhu or taken to Lady Dixon’s friends and family. 

In 1940 Lady Dixon gave one of their three Rolls-Royces to be converted into an ambulance for first-aid parties to the Larne A.R.P. Ambulance Service.

In May, 1947, Sir Thomas celebrated his 79th birthday, and the occasion was marked by announcing a generous gift: After forty years at Cairndhu, the Dixons donated their 60-room family home, with 100 acres of the estate, to the Ministry of Health and Local Government for use as a convalescent home and hospital. 

At the time, Lady Dixon said that she was very sorry to be going away from the house that her father built: “It’s too big for us now, though. It was different in the days when we could entertain.”

Sir Thomas died on holiday at the Majestic Hotel, Harrogate, on 10th May, 1950, aged 81.

His body was brought back on the Stranraer steam-boat en route to his last residence, Wilmont House in Dunmurry.

The funeral service was held at Belfast Cathedral before burial at Dundonald Cemetery.

His younger brother Herbert, who had already been elevated to the peerage as 1st Baron Glentoran, succeeded him in the baronetcy.

At the time of Sir Thomas’s death, his effects were valued at over £389,000.

Cairndhu was officially opened as a convalescent hospital in 1950, but funding difficulties meant that, in 1986, it was closed down by the Department of Health and Social Services. 

In 1995, the Lord Rana purchased Cairndhu House and the surrounding gardens from the council.

A public consultation was held in 2018 over plans to develop the site of the derelict mansion into 'retirement village' facilities and a care home.

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CAIRNDHU was originally built as a summer residence in 1875 on a beautiful site overlooking the sea, which hitherto had a small amount of planting around a former smaller house called Sea View.

The trees, forming an effective shelter-belt, date from the late 19th century.

The site benefited initially from the shelter-belts of the adjoining property, Carncastle Lodge (now Carnfunnock Country Park).

These adjacent sites are now both administered by Larne Borough Council.

Gardens developed round the house with steeply terraced lawns.

The grounds rise on a steep slope from sea level, east to west.

The productive gardens were to the west side of the house at the most elevated level.

Vestiges of these remain and some dilapidated glass-houses.

There are good specimens of mature trees, shrub planting and lawns.

The northern end is now a golf course.

First published in August, 2010.

Quintin Castle

QUINTIN CASTLE is located on the Ards Peninsula, about 2½ miles east of Portaferry,  County Down.

It is one of the very few inhabited Anglo-Norman castles in Ulster.

The original castle was built by John de Courcy in 1184.

In the later middle ages the castle was held by the Smiths, a dependent family of the Savages.

In the mid-1600s, Sir James Montgomery, a relation of the Savages, purchased the castle and the surrounding lands from Dualtagh Smith.

Sir James and his son William renovated the castle, adding a large house to it as well as a walled courtyard.

At some period after an interlude in the 1650s, when a Cromwellian officer held Quintin, the Montgomerys sold the castle to George Ross, a member of an influential local family who held lands at Kearney.

Ross never lived at the castle, which remained in its mid-17th century form until the 1850s, when one of his descendants, Elizabeth Calvert, set about remodelling it.

Entrance Front of Quintin Castle. Image: Robert John Welch (1859-1936)

Quintin Castle was, by that time, a ruinous structure, much of whose stone, according to the OS Memoirs, had been taken by local people.

This remodelling included the raising in height of the central keep, the construction of drawing and dining rooms and the general decoration to the entire building, as well as rebuilding the courtyard walls, gates and outer towers.

In 1897, the estate was sold by the Land Commission.

The house, however, remained with the descendants of the Calverts, one of whom, Magdalen King-Hall, became a writer whose many works included The Wicked Lady, a story of highwaymen and women, which later became a successful film.

The King-Halls sold the castle in the 1920s and Quintin passed though a series of owners, one of whom, James O'Hara, ran the building as a nursing home during the 1980s.

It may have been at this stage that that the secondary entrance in the front facade was added, perhaps to provide easier access for some of the elderly residents.

The central keep was raised; a walkway constructed within the battlements; a drawing-room which opened into the inner gardens; and a dining-room constructed on the lowest floor of the great tower. 

Most of the grounds were also enclosed by a massive stone wall.

In the 1870s the estate comprised 1,007 acres.

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Quintin Castle was extensively refurbished by the builders McGimpsey and Kane, changing hands most recently in 2006.

It underwent a further restoration ca 2006, when it was bought by the property developer, Paul Neill.

In 2011, one bank moved against him taking control of two of his retail parks in Bangor over a £37m debt. 

Mr Neill was subsequently declared bankrupt.

Consequently, the Irish government's National Asset Management Agency (Nama) repossessed the castle in 2012.

In June, 2013, Quintin Castle was sold (asking £1.65m with 22 acres) to the Tayto Group (owned by the Hutchinson family's Manderley Food Group).

In July, 2016, the new owners applied for planning permission to convert the castle into an eight-bedroom "boutique hotel," with permission to utilize the courtyard for functions such as weddings.

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The original demesne is now split up, but the house retains stone-walled terrace gardens, which were depicted as being fully planted up.

The walled garden is in separate ownership.

There is medieval-style gateway leading into the grounds of ca 1855, and a tall octagonal rubble-constructed folly tower within the grounds.

First published in January, 2011.

Lissan House

THE STAPLES BARONETS OWNED 3,078 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY TYRONE

This family settled in Ulster during the reign of JAMES I. THOMAS STAPLES, of Lissan, the founder of the family in Ulster, came from Bristol ca 1610, as part of the plantation of Ulster. This Thomas, fifth son of Alexander Staples, settled in Moneymore, County Londonderry (then being constructed as part of the terms of the plantation grant to the Worshipful Company of Drapers, which had been granted large swathes of the new county in 1611).

His stone house is marked in a map of 1635 as in the centre of Moneymore, beside the Market Cross. 

ALEXANDER STAPLES, of Yate Court, Gloucestershire, married firstly, Avis, daughter of Richard Browne, of Marlborough, Wiltshire, and secondly, Elizabeth.

Tomb of Alexander Staples (Image: Lissan House)

He had issue,

George, purchased the Manor of Fovant, Wiltshire;

Richard, of Boreham;

Alexander, of Nottingham;

Edward;

THOMAS, of whom hereafter;

William.

Mr Staples died in 1590. His fifth son,

THOMAS STAPLES, of Lissan, County Tyrone, and of Faughanvale, County Londonderry, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1640, wedded, ante 1623, Charity, only child and heiress of Sir Baptist Jones, of the Worshipful Company of Vintners, and had issue,

BAPTIST, his successor;
ALEXANDER, 3rd Baronet;
Thomas;
ROBERT, 4th Baronet;
Charity; Elizabeth.

Mr Staples was created a baronet by CHARLES I in 1628, designated of Lissan, County Tyrone.

About the same date, Sir Thomas purchased several leases, including the lands of the town of Cookstown and 180 acres at what now comprises the Lissan demesne.

It is thought that a dwelling existed on the estate at this time along with an Iron Forge which was used to smelt the iron deposits found across the estate.

Mainly as a result of the existence of the forge, the dwelling house survived the Rebellion of 1641.

Sir Thomas died in 1653, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR BAPTIST STAPLES, 2nd Baronet (1630-72), of Lissan and Faughanvale,, who died unmarried, and was succeeded by his brother,

SIR ALEXANDER STAPLES, 3rd Baronet, of Lissan and Faughanvale, MP for Strabane, 1661-5, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1661, who married Elizabeth Conynham, and had issue,

Elizabeth;
another daughter.

Sir Alexander died in 1673, and was succeeded by his brother,

SIR ROBERT STAPLES, 4th Baronet (1643-1714), of Lissan, MP for Dungannon, 1692-3, Clogher, 1696-9, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1703, who wedded, in 1681/2, Mary, daughter of the Most Rev John Vesey, of Abbey Leix, County Laois, and had issue,

JOHN, his successor;
Robert, died in infancy;
another son, died in infancy;
Thomlinson;
ALEXANDER, 6th Baronet;
Thomas (Rev), 1702-62; father of Rt Hon John Staples MP;
Jane; Ann; Rebecca; Mary.

Sir Robert was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR JOHN STAPLES, 5th Baronet (1684-1730), who espoused Mary Goslin, and had issue,

Isabella Elizabeth;
two other daughters.

Sir John died without male issue, and was succeeded by his brother,

SIR ALEXANDER STAPLES, 6th Baronet (1693-1741), who wedded, in 1735, Abigail, daughter and heiress of Thomas Townley, of County Cavan, and had an only son,

SIR ROBERT STAPLES, 7th Baronet (1740-1816), who espoused firstly, in 1761, Alicia, daughter of the Rev Thomas Staples, of Lissan, by whom he had one daughter, Sarah, who married Samuel Jacob, of Mowbamam, County Tipperary.

He married secondly, Mary, eldest daughter of Sir William Barker Bt, and had issue,

ROBERT, his successor;
Anna Maria, m, 1790, R Smyth.

Sir Robert wedded thirdly, in 1776, Jane, third daughter of John Denny, Lord Knapton, and sister to the Viscount de Vesci, by whom he had issue,

Isabella; Elizabeth Selina; Anne; Catherine.

Sir Robert was succeeded by his only son,

Sir Robert Staples, 8th Baronet

SIR ROBERT STAPLES, 8th Baronet (1772-1832), who died unmarried in 1832, when the title reverted to his cousin,

SIR THOMAS STAPLES, 9th Baronet (1775-1865), a barrister, MP for Knocktopher, 1800, son of the Rt Hon John Staples, of Dunmore, Queen's County, who espoused, in 1813, Catherine, daughter of the Rev John Hawkins.

Sir Thomas Staples, 9th Baronet,  by Martin Cregan

The marriage was without issue, and the baronetcy reverted to his cousin,

SIR NATHANIEL ALEXANDER STAPLES, 10th Baronet (1817-99), DP DL, son of the Rev John Molesworth Staples, Captain, Bengal Artillery, who wedded, in 1844, Elizabeth Lindsay, daughter of Captain James Head, and had issue,

JOHN MOLESWORTH, his successor;
James Head (1849-1917);
ROBERT PONSONBY, successor to his brother;
Cecilia; another daughter.

Sir Nathaniel was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR JOHN MOLESWORTH STAPLES, 11th Baronet (1848-1933), who died unmarried, and was succeeded by his brother,

SIR ROBERT PONSONBY STAPLES, 12th Baronet (1853-1943), who married, in 1883, Ada Louise, daughter of Mr H Stammers, and had issue,

ROBERT GEORGE ALEXANDER, his successor;
Violet Hope; Beatrice Joyce Head; Nora Lettice Mary.

Sir Robert was succeeded by his only son,

SIR ROBERT GEORGE ALEXANDER STAPLES, 13th Baronet (1894-1970), of Lissan, Lieutenant, Royal Army Service Corps, who wedded, in 1922, Vera Lilian, daughter of John Jenkins, and had issue,

HAZEL MARION, of Lissan;
Elizabeth Hope (1924-70).

Sir Nathaniel Alexander Staples, 10th Baronet (1817-99);
Sir John Molesworth Staples, 11th Baronet (1848–1933);
Sir Robert Ponsonby Staples, 12th Baronet (1853–1943);
Sir Robert George Alexander Staples, 13th Baronet (1894–1970);
Sir John Richard Staples, 14th Baronet (1906-89);
Sir Thomas Staples, 15th Baronet (1905–97);
Sir Gerald James Arland Staples, 16th Baronet (1909–99);
Sir Richard Molesworth Staples, 17th Baronet (1914–2013).

LISSAN HOUSE, near Cookstown, County Tyrone, is now open to visitors.

It owes its existence to Sir Thomas's third son, Sir Robert, 4th Baronet.

There is some evidence of building on the site ca 1580.

Construction of the present building began about 1620.

It was reconstructed ca 1690, with notable alterations in ca 1780, 1840 and  1880.

Lissan House today is mainly a plain, three storey, nine bay Georgian residence (with the later additions).

At one end there is a single-storey wing with a three-sided, mullioned bow.

The other end has a gable-ended office range; and in the middle of the entrance front, a "single-storey protuberance of unusual depth" embodying a porch and a bow-fronted porte-cochére with windows.

At some stage, after the mid-18th century, a garden was laid out here with "an artificial sheet of water with cascades and a picturesque bridge".

Lissan House was originally built ca 1690 by Sir Robert Staples, 4th Baronet.

It was extended in the early 1800s, and altered and extended again in the 1870s, including the addition of a clock tower in 1878 and a windowed porte-cochére ca 1880.

The main staircase and entrance hall were enlarged about 1888.

A long gallery wing to the west integrated with house in the early 1900s to permit easier access to the first floor of the house.

Apart from its 17th century origins and later Victorian additions, the house as it stands now is basically of the 18th century in general form and exterior appearance, while the interior is largely of the 19th century, with some 18th century elements.

The original house of the late 17th century was built of brick made on the estate; local stone, probably from a quarry near the house; and massive oak beams thought to have come from the woodlands on the estate.

Part of this 17th century building can still be seen in the core of the house, particularly in the kitchen area where the walls are between six and eight feet thick; and in the basement, where very old timbers survive.

The form and siting of Thomas Staples' first residence at Lissan is uncertain, but it may have been in the block attached to the south-west corner of the present house, known today as the Creamery.

The house remained the home of the Staples family for over three centuries, reputedly the longest occupation by any single family of a country house in the western part of Ulster.

The last owner and occupant, and last descendant of the Staples family, was Hazel Dolling, daughter of Sir Robert George Alexander Staples, 13th Baronet, who died in 1970.

She died in 2006 and passed the house and estate in trust, bequeathing the house to the community, intended by her to become a centre for music and arts for central Ulster.

The extensive estate, which is over 250 acres, includes a number of other buildings, including old farm buildings, an ice house, old stone bridges over the Lissan Water river, a walled garden of four and a half acres, a gardener's cottage, a gate lodge and pillars, an 18th century bridge and cascade designed by the architect Davis Ducart, and a generator house dating from 1902.

A 19th century ballroom is attached to the east side of the house.

The ornamental gardens have gone and the five acre walled garden (three walls) is today used as community allotments.

The Gardener’s House and offices are no longer used.

There are mature trees and forest planting.

The Lissan Water flows near the house, wooded on either side, and there are several bridges crossing the river, which is also the county boundary.

There were at least two gate lodges: the Cooktown entrance lodge of about 1830, which was derelict in 1994; Castor's gate lodge (demolished), en route to Lissan parish church; and a third Moneymore lodge, not far in a south-easterly direction from Castor's Lodge.

Lissan House and demesne is now run by a Trust.

Other former residence ~ 2, Barkfield, Freshfield Road, Formby, Lancashire.

First published in November, 2010.

Florida Manor

THE GORDONS OWNED 4,768 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY DOWN

AND 8,806 ACRES IN COUNTY TYRONE

THE MANOR OF FLORIDA WAS GRANTED BY KING CHARLES I, WITH MANORIAL RIGHTS AND ROYALTIES. It was established in 1638 on lands previously acquired by Sir James Montgomery (second son of SIR HUGH MONTGOMERY) from Con O'Neill, the name Florida apparently having been derived from Sir James's fondness for flora or flowers. During the Commonwealth (1649-60), the lands were placed in the custody of a Colonel Barrow, but returned to Montgomery hands, after much wrangling, in 1664.

In 1691-2, the Manor came into possession of the Crawford family and passed to Robert Gordon of DELAMONT PARK, through marriage to Ann, the niece and sole heiress to the estate of David Crawford, ca 1770. It was undoubtedly one of the Gordons who built the present house, probably ca 1780-1800, possibly constructed around an earlier Montgomery dwelling which (if a later date stone in the adjacent farmyard is to be believed) may have dated from in or around 1676.

The Manor House is shown on a map of 1834 (along with the large farmyard to the rear, the steward's house and the gate lodges to the east and north).

The rear conservatory or porch and the early Victorian chimney pots may have been added around this time also.

In the later 1800s, with the passing of successive land acts, much of the Gordon lands began to be sold off.

By the 1880s, the manor house itself appears to have been leased by Thomas Brand.

By 1917 (at least), the demesne and its buildings had been acquired by William Devenney, a local farmer who appears to have lived in the steward's house.

Thus Florida, unoccupied, fell into disrepair; but after the 2nd World War, it was bought by Milo Pickaar, who renovated much of the building.

The estate now belongs to the Lagan family.

The manor of Florida, near Killinchy, County Down, comprised the townlands of Ballybunden, Drumreagh and part of the townland of Kilmood.

Photo Credit: Florida Manor NI

The house is a Listed Building as being of special architectural and historic interest. The lands of Killinchy and Kilmood were constituted as the Manor of Florida in 1638. The present Florida Manor is thought to date from the period 1796.

The Department of Environment lists the house B+ and suggests construction dates of 1780 to 1799. It is a substantial Georgian three storey rendered house of the handsome boxy variety. 

The entrance front has three wide bays. A balustraded porch with four Ionic columns projects from the narrower central bay which is recessed. The porch has a window on its side elevations and a window on either side of the entrance door which is surmounted by a semicircular fanlight.

The entrance front is made charmingly asymmetric by a curving curtain wall reaching out to a single storey wing attached to the stables quadrangle. Doric pilasters at regular intervals demarcate this section of the house.

The side elevation is similarly treated to the entrance front although the three bays are equal in width. However each bay contains two windows on each floor rather than one as on the entrance front. 

A string course below the first floor windows is aligned with the top of the porch balustrade. It is repeated as an entablature under the very slim parapet. Hipped roofs slope up to the chimneys which unusually are Elizabethan in appearance.

Agar Murdoch & Deane record that the ground floor includes the entrance hall with decorative plasterwork and a “massive carved oak chimney-piece and inset mirror”.  

Three reception rooms, a conservatory, and the kitchen, scullery and pantry are also noted. Four bedrooms and a bathroom are recorded on the first floor. The second floor was laid out as a flat with three bedrooms and two reception rooms. The estate agents described the gardens as follows:-

“With ‘island’ lawn, gravelled drive with trees and shrubs. Formal garden – walled and with perimeter flowerbeds and lawns. Side garden with lawn, flowerbeds and shrubs. Greenhouse and stonewall with arched recessed and bench seats.”

Photo Credit: Florida Manor NI

The Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI) states that the Crawford family purchased part of the estate from the Montgomerys of Rosemount, Greyabbey, in 1691.

It later became the seat of the Gordon family through marriage.

The architect of the house is unknown.

A memorandum of agreement dated 1775 in the PRONI archive between Robert Gordon and Hugh Agnew, a brick-maker, is for ‘fifty thousand bricks or any greater number…’

This may relate to the construction of the house.

The late Sir Charles Brett wrote in his book Buildings of North County Down,

Florida Manor itself is a rather mysterious house, probably of 17th century origin but much altered, with a disconcerting combination of possibly late 18th century pompous tetra-style Ionic porch and sprouting polygonal Elizabethan-style chimney-pots.

On the basis of the latter, Hugh Dixon has suggested it may have been rebuilt around 1810, and, on the model of Narrow Water Castle, proposed a possible attribution to Thomas Duff.

In 1791, the estate was described as containing 1,300 acres of arable land and 400 acres of bog and it was let for £1,000 per annum.

In 1867, when Robert Francis Gordon took possession of the Florida Manor estate, it was valued at £4,634.

However, the bulk of Florida Manor, including the townlands of Ballygraffan, Ballyminstragh, Kilmood, Lisbarnet, Raffrey, Ravara and Tullynagee, formed part of the Londonderry Estates.

There is very little information relating directly to Florida Manor itself, though it is possible to draw together some information about the building of the house or, at least, to establish an approximate date of when the house was completed.

A bill of complaint declares that, when John Crawford Gordon died in 1797, his brother David succeeded to the estate, which included the manor-house and demesne.

Moreover, a survey of 1794 for the Florida demesne of John Crawford recorded that it comprised just over 100 acres.

A memorandum of agreement between Robert Gordon and Hugh Agnew, a brick-maker, for 'fifty thousand bricks or any greater number...' is dated 1775.

The Gordons sold Florida Manor in 1910.

More recently, the demesne was purchased by Michael Lagan.

Today, within the demesne's original stone perimeter wall lie 200 acres of extensive landscaped grasslands, private lakes, walkways and bridal paths.

The house still appears derelict at the time of writing, though the original stable-yard has been restored to form apartments of a high calibre.

The restoration and conversion of the stable-yard has transformed it into private dwellings and stables, at a cost of £2 million.

The original stable block dates back to at least the 17th Century as a small cast iron plaque dated July 18th, 1676, has been uncovered and restored within the original grounds.

The design & restoration has been carried out taking into account the unique aspects of the site and using traditional materials such as a natural slate roof, sash windows and stone archways, all adding to create an aesthetically pleasing form to this distinctive development.

The former land-steward’s dwelling, a short distance away from the stables, has also been restored.

In 1755, Robert Gordon married the widow Alice Whyte and through this connection the Gordons acquired Florida Manor.

The Loyal Florida Infantry Yeomanry Corps (Gordon Yeomanry)

In 1797, David Gordon, son of Robert Gordon, succeeded to the estate on the death of his brother John Gordon.

The estate included the mansion house called Florida Manor and demesne.

David Gordon was a Magistrate and records show that a Court operated at the manor and they highlight the myriad of offences that could be brought before the manor Court.

The court still appeared to be in operation by the early 19th century, as case papers dated 1805 recite David Gordon's title to the lordship of the manor and his accompanying rights.

Records also state that the court met at least once a year, when petty constables were appointed.

David Gordon was also one of the magistrates who collected evidence about the 1803 rebellion.

During the latter part of the 1700s, Yeomanry forces were raised by landed gentry to support the  Crown and the regular army to combat the impending French invasion/Irish rebellion against the Crown [1796-1798].

The local landowner, magistrate and lord of the manor at Killinchy, David Gordon, raised such a force and named it the "Loyal Florida Infantry" Yeomanry Corps [Gordon Yeomanry].

Kilmood Parish Church

KILMOOD, a parish in the barony of Lower Castlereagh, 2¼ miles north-north-west of Killinchy, County Down.

The surface consists in general of good land; and is drained chiefly by the river Blackwater.

The road from Comber to Killyleagh passes through the interior; and the demesne of Florida is in the south.

St Mary’s Church, Kilmood, was open for worship in 1822.

The site on which the church is built has been a place of worship since medieval times, having once been part of the monastic settlement in Comber.

The building of the present church was financed by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners who gave £900; Lord Dufferin, who gave the bell; and the local squire, David Gordon of Florida Manor, who paid the remainder of the £2,215 bill.

Consequently the Gordons were, for many years, patrons of St Mary’s Kilmood, retaining the right to appoint the vicar.

St Mary’s Kilmood was regarded as the estate church of Florida Manor until 1928, when it was brought into the parish of Killinchy Union.

First published in May, 2012.

The Hill Baronets

THE HILL BARONETS OWNED 230 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY LONDONDERRY

SAMUEL HILL, the first ancestor of this family in Ulster, went from Buckinghamshire to Ireland as Treasurer of that kingdom, under OLIVER CROMWELL, about 1642.

For his active services he received large grants of lands in the counties of Armagh, Tyrone, Antrim, and Derry, and eventually settled at Coleraine, being a burgess of the first corporation of Londonderry.

This Samuel Hill married Sarah, daughter of Michael Beresford, by whom he had issue, two sons, John and Jonathan, who then held commissions as Major and Captain respectively during the celebrated siege of Derry.

The elder son,

JOHN HILL, succeeded to the family estates, and wedded, in 1642, Mary, daughter of Thomas Wilson, of Kilkenny, by whom he acquired an estate in lands and houses in East Smithfield, Manor of Stepney, Middlesex.

He died leaving an only son,

SAMUEL HILL, of Culmore, which estate he obtained with his wife, Mary, daughter and co-heiress of Hugh Rowley, of Culmore, by Mary, daughter of Edward Rowley, of Castle Roe, MP for Londonderry, by Lettice his wife, daughter and co-heiress of Sir John Clotworthy, 1st Viscount Massereene.

ROWLEY, of Culmore and of Walworth, his heir;
Samuel, of Strangford, County Down;
Hugh (Rev Dr), of Mount Hill, County Armagh;
Elizabeth, m William Montgomery, of Grey Abbey;
Lettice; Mary.

The eldest son,

ROWLEY HILL (1672-1739), of Ballykelly, County Londonderry, MP for Ratoath, 1734-9, married, in 1726, Sophia Beresford, second daughter of Gorges Lowther MP of Kilrue, County Meath, and had issue,

HUGH, his heir;
George, drowned at sea;
John;
Jane; Catharine; Mary.

The elder son,

HUGH HILL (1728-95), who married firstly, in 1754, Mary, daughter of John Hodgson, of Ballynascreen, and had issue, four daughters,

Elizabeth; Sophia Beresford; Mary; Letitia.

He wedded secondly, in 1762, Hannah, daughter of John McClintock, of Dunmore, County Donegal, and had issue,

GEORGE FITZGERALD, his successor;
John Beresford, father of GEORGE, 3rd Baronet;
Rowley George;
Marcus Samuel;
Rebecca.

Mr Hill, MP for Londonderry City, 1768-95, and Collector of that port, was created a baronet in 1779, designated of Brook Hall, County Londonderry.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

THE RT HON SIR GEORGE FITZGERALD HILL, 2nd Baronet (1763-1839),

Privy Counsellor in Ireland, a trustee of the linen manufacture, Colonel, Derry Militia, MP for Londonderry, 1795-1830; and successively Clerk of the Irish House of Commons, Vice-Treasurer of Ireland, Governor of the Island of St Vincent, and Governor of Trinidad.

Sir George espoused, in 1788, Jane, third daughter of the Rt Hon Lord John Beresford, brother of George, 1st Marquess of Waterford, which lady dsp 1836.

He died without issue, and the title devolved upon his nephew,

SIR GEORGE HILL, 3rd Baronet (1804-45), who espoused, in 1831, Elizabeth Sophia, eldest daughter of John Rea, of St Columb's, by Louisa his wife, daughter of the Very Rev Stewart Blacker, of Carrick Blacker, County Armagh, and had issue,

JOHN, his successor;
George;
Rowley (Rt Rev), grandfather of 7th and 9th Baronets;
Louisa Jane; Letitia Diana.

Sir George was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR JOHN HILL, 4th Baronet (1833-72), High Sheriff of County Londonderry, 1869, who married, in 1863, Charlotte Isabella, daughter of Henry David Blyth, and had issue,

GEORGE, his successor;
HENRY BLYTH, successor to his brother;
John;
Hugh Rowley;
Charlotte Elizabeth; Letitia Catherine; Mary Maud; Louisa Isabella.

Sir John, Captain, 17th Lancers, was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR GEORGE HILL, 5th Baronet (1866-78), who died in childhood, and was succeeded by his brother,

SIR HENRY BLYTH HILL, 6th Baronet (1867-1929), DSO, Captain, Royal Irish Fusiliers, who wedded, in 1907, Eliza Maud, daughter of George Bowdler Gipps, and had issue, an only child, JOHN PATRICK (1909-10), who died in infancy.

The baronetcy accordingly reverted to Sir Henry's cousin,

SIR GEORGE ROWLEY HILL, 7th Baronet (1864-1954), son of the Rt Rev Rowley Hill, who espoused, in 1890, Alice Estelle Harley, daughter of Edward Bacon, and had issue, an only child,

SIR GEORGE CYRIL ROWLEY HILL, 8th Baronet (1890-1980), who wedded, in 1919, Edith Muriel, daughter of W O Thomas, though the marriage was without issue, and the title reverted to his cousin,

SIR GEORGE ALFRED ROWLEY HILL, 9th Baronet (1899-1985), who wedded firstly, in 1924, Rose Ethel Kathleen, daughter of William Richard Spratt, and had issue,

RICHARD GEORGE ROWLEY, his successor.

He espoused secondly, in 1938, Jessie Anne Roberts, and had further issue,

JOHN ALFRED ROWLEY, 11th Baronet;

Margaret Anne Rowley.

Sir George was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR RICHARD GEORGE ROWLEY HILL, 10th Baronet (1925-92), MBE, who married firstly, in 1954, Angela Mary, daughter of Lieutenant-Colonel Herbert Stanley Gallon; and secondly, in 1975, Zoreen Joy Macpherson, by whom he had issue, two daughters,

Charlotte Mary Rowley; Georgina Emma Rowley.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his brother,

SIR JOHN ALFRED ROWLEY HILL, 11th Baronet (1940-), of Oadby Grange, Leicestershire, who married, in 1966, Diana Anne Walker.

The Hill Papers are deposited at the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland. 

St Columb's

When Sir George Hill, 3rd Baronet, married Elizabeth Rea in 1831, St Columb's in Derry's Waterside became their residence.

The Hills remained at St Columb's until about 1890, when it was acquired by the Cookes.

They owned 969 acres of land in County Donegal.

Brook Hall

During the Siege of Derry in 1689 Brook Hall, at Culmore, was the headquarters for JAMES I's army and the house was occupied by the Duke of Berwick, who commanded His Majesty's army.

The original house was replaced ca 1780 by an elegant villa to the north of its site, where extensive landscaping took place.

This house was altered ca 1816, when the balcony was added and it took on its Regency-style appearance.

It would appear that Sir George Hill, 3rd Baronet, leased Brook Hall to Henry Barré Beresford (the Hills are related to the Beresfords through intermarriage) in 1831, and went to live with his new wife at St Columb's.

The estate was purchased in 1852 by Samuel Gilliland, who planted the demesne with its rare ornamental trees and shrubs.

David Gilliland heads a family of quite remarkable achievement and social conscience.

Married to the novelist Jennifer Johnston, David, a Londonderry solicitor, inherited Brook Hall and has continued the family passion for gardening by restoring, maintaining and improving the estate's gardens of azaleas, rhododendrons and flowering shrubs, as well as an arboretum harbouring over 900 specimens of conifers and deciduous trees.

Brook Hall is listed on the UK’s Register of Parks, Gardens and Demesnes of Special Historic Interest.

When the house was built ca 1780, surrounding land was acquired to create a landscape park, which slopes down to the River Foyle.

The house, lodge and gates are listed.

Much original planting remains including parkland oaks, beeches and chestnuts.

In Notes of a Journey in the North of Ireland in the summer of 1827, Mitchell wrote that,

Upon the grounds, evidently neither expanse nor skill has been spared in furnishing and maturing one of the most luxuriant collections of shrubs I ever beheld.

There is also more recent planting of considerable interest in the arboretum, begun in 1932 by Commander Frank Gilliland, RNVR.

This important collection, which occupies about 35 acres west and south west of the house, has been continuously enlarged over the years.

The present owner, who succeeded to the property in 1957, has catalogued the collection.

The walled gardens are partly cultivated.

Nearby lies the National Collection of Escallonia.

The gate lodge, one remaining of two, was built ca 1820 and is listed with the house and gates.

Residence in 1956 ~ 2 Dawlish Drive, Leigh-on-Sea, Essex.

First published in January, 2011.

Milford House

THE McCRUMS OWNED 46 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ARMAGH

The family of McCrum originated from Argyllshire, where they were seated from very ancient times.

WILLIAM McCRUM (1785-1879), son of William McCrum (1756-1818), a farmer from County Armagh, by his wife, Elizabeth Harper, of County Armagh), married, in 1818, Judith, daughter of Moses Paul, and had issue,

ROBERT GARMANY, of whom presently;
Martha, died in infancy.

The only son,

ROBERT GARMANY McCRUM JP DL (1827-1915), of Milford House, County Armagh, High Sheriff of County Armagh, 1889, wedded, in 1864, Anne Eliza Riddall, of Armagh, and had issue,

WILLIAM, his heir;
Harriette, b 1867.

Mr McCrum was succeeded by his only son,

WILLIAM McCRUM (1865-1932), of Milford House, High Sheriff of County Armagh, 1909, who espoused, in 1891, Maude Mary, daughter of Dr W W Squires, of Montreal, Canada, and had issue, an only son,

CECIL ROBERT McCRUM OBE* (1892-1976), of The Mall, Armagh, Captain, Royal Navy, who wedded Ivy Hilda Constance (1891–1990), daughter of William Nicholson, and had issue,

Patrick, 1917-22;
Antony, b 1919; 
MICHAEL WILLIAM, of whom presently;
Robert.

*Central Chancery of the Orders of Knighthood, St James's Palace, SWl. 1st January, 1943: The KING has been graciously pleased to give orders for the following to be Additional Officers of the Military Division of the said Most Excellent Order : Captain Cecil Robert McCrum, RN (Ret.).

The third son,

Michael McCrum CBE, Headmaster, Eton College, 1970-80
(Image: Corpus Christi College, University of Cambridge)

MICHAEL WILLIAM McCRUM CBE (1924-2005), a distinguished academic and historian, married, in 1952, Christine Mary Kathleen, daughter of Sir Arthur Brownlow Frederick fforde GBE,  and had four children, of whom 

(John) Robert McCrum, born in 1953, is a well-known editor and writer.

*****

Harriette McCrum. Photo Credit: Armagh County Museum

Robert Garmany McCrum's only daughter,

HARRIETTE (1867-1951), of The Mall, Armagh, married, in 1898, the Rev David Miller, and had issue, four sons,

Robert Craig;
William McCrum;
David Riddall;
Edward Wentworth.

MILFORD HOUSE, near Armagh City, County Armagh, is a two-storey, Italianate country house, built for Robert Garmany McCrum between 1865-1904.

It has a three-sided bow; pedimented three-bay projection; and camber-headed windows.

There is an elaborate range of glasshouses running at right-angles from the middle of the front.

During the Victorian era, the grounds extended to 46 acres.

The manor house passed into the ownership of William McCrum in 1915.

Never adept at business, he lost heavily in the Wall Street Crash of 1929 and was forced to auction the contents of the house the following year and sell the mill the year after that.

Mr McCrum died penniless in 1932 and the Milford House came into the ownership of the Northern Bank.

In 1936, the bank leased it to a private boarding school for girls (Manor House School), who bought it outright for £3,000 in 1940.

The school closed in 1965; and in 1966 the property was sold to the Northern Ireland Hospital Authority for use as a special care home.

This shut in 1988 and since then the property became vacant.

In 1936, the house was leased and ultimately sold to a girls' school.

In 2000, the Friends of Manor House was established by Stephen McManus in collaboration with Armagh Council to secure the future of the property.

The building was sold to the current owners in 2002.

The Milford Buildings Preservation Trust continues to work tirelessly to protect Milford House, its parkland and gardens.

First published in May, 2014.