Tuesday 30 June 2020

Luttrellstown Castle

THE BARONS ANNALY WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY DUBLIN, WITH 3,954 ACRES


HENRY WHITE (1791-1873), of Woodlands (otherwise Luttrellstown), County Dublin, and subsequently of Rathcline, County Longford, was the fourth, but only surviving son of Luke White, bookseller, of Woodlands.

He served in the 14th Light Dragoons during the Peninsular War; was MP for County Dublin, 1823-32, County Longford, 1837-47 and 1857-61; Lord-Lieutenant of County Longford, 1841-73.

Having succeeded to the Longford estates of his next elder brother, Luke White, in 1854, he was elevated to the peerage, in 1863, in the dignity of BARON ANNALY (third creation), of Annaly and Rathcline, County Longford.

His lordship married, in 1828, Ellen, daughter of William Soper Dempster, by Hannah, only daughter and heir of John Hamilton Dempster, of Skibo Castle, Sutherland, and had issue,
LUKE, his successor;
Henry;
George Frederick;
Francis Samuel;
Charles William;
Robert;
Eleanor Eliza; Emily Beaujolais.
He died at Sunbury Park, Middlesex, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

LUKE, 2nd Baron (1829-88), KP, who wedded, in 1853, Emily, daughter of James Stuart, and had issue,
LUKE, his successor;
Henry Frederick;
Charles James;
Robert;
Francis William;
Ellen Harriet; Alice Emily; Violet.
His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

LUKE, 3rd Baron (1857-1922), GCVO JP DL, who wedded, in 1884, Lilah Georgiana Augusta Constance, daughter of Henry, 3rd Viscount Clifden, and had issue,
LUKE HENRY, his successor;
Lilah Charlotte Sarah; Lucia Emily Margaret.
His lordship was succeeded by his son,

LUKE HENRY, 4th Baron (1885-1970), MC JP,

LUTTRELLSTOWN CASTLE, Clonsilla, County Dublin, dates from the early 15th century (ca 1420).

It has been owned variously by the eponymous and notorious Luttrell family; the bookseller Luke White his descendants the Lords Annaly; the Guinnesses; the Primwest Group; and, since 2006, JP McManus, John Magnier and Aidan Brooks.

The Castle has hosted visits by Queen Victoria in 1844 and 1900, and its media profile was raised when David and Victoria Beckham were married there in 1999.

Luttrellstown and its remaining 560-acre demesne currently form a 5-star resort. 

Henry, 2nd Earl of Carhampton, sold Luttrellstown Castle to the publisher Luke White, described as one of the most remarkable men in Ireland.

Luke White changed its name to Woodlands, but the 3rd Lord Annaly reverted back to its former name.


In 1778, Luke White started as an impecunious book dealer, buying in Dublin and reselling around the country.

By 1798, during the rebellion, he helped the Irish government with a loan of £1 million (at £65 per £100 share at 5%).

He became MP for Leitrim, and died in 1824 leaving properties worth £175,000 per annum.

An extract from The illustrated London News of 1864 describes a series of festivities at Woodlands, "the beautiful seat of the Rt Hon. Henry White, the newly created Lord Annaly".

These festivities consisted of theatrical and social entertainments.

A new theatre was built especially for the occasion and the festivities lasted for a fort­night.

The plays `Still Waters Run Deep' and `Samuel in Search of Him­self' were performed, and a ball to which `most of the principal families of Dublin and the neighbourhood received invitations', concluded the festivities.

Queen Victoria paid two visits to Luttrellstown: Firstly in 1844, as Her Majesty passed through to visit the Duke of Leinster at Carton; secondly in 1900, when The Queen stayed at Viceregal Lodge.

To commemorate these visits, Lord Annaly erected an obelisk made of six blocks of granite from the Dublin mountains, which together measure 8 feet, 6 inches in height.

It is at the head of the Glen, near the Waterfall, where Her Majesty drank some tea.

Prince von Puckler-Muskau (c1820) remarked,
"The entrance to the demesne is indeed the most delightful in its kind that can be imagined. Scenery, by nature most beautiful, is improved by art to the highest degree of its capability, and, without destroying its free and wild character, a variety and richness of vegetation is produced which enchants the eye. 
Gay shrubs and wild flowers, the softest turf and giant trees, festooned with creeping plants, fill the narrow glen through which the path winds, by the side of the clear, dancing brook, which, falling in little cataracts, flows on, sometimes hidden in the thicket, sometimes resting like liquid silver in an emerald cup, or rushing under overhanging arches of rock, which nature seems to have hung there as triumphal gates for the beneficent Naiad of the valley to pass through."

In the dining-room (above) the architect, Mr Harbord, used the same eagles at Oving House, near Aylesbury, that he incorporated in the plasterwork here.

As a room it succeeds brilliantly. The ceiling is painted by de Wit.


The entrance hall (above) retains its Gothic character of about 1800, but the mantel and black-and- white floor are recent improvements.


It leads on to the staircase hall, which was transformed by Mr Harbord in 1963 when a magnificent painted ceiling by Thornhill, from a house in Suffolk now demolished, was inserted; the staircase and window were altered at the same time.

The far end of the Ballroom opens into the Grisaille Room (above), created to rake the series of nine Grisaille paintings by Peter de Gree, one of which, signed and dated 1788, represents Irish trade and commerce.

The library, in the centre of the south front, was originally the entrance hall and it has an unusual eighteenth century plaster ceiling with bow and arrow in full relief.

he chief glory of the house is the ballroom, which has plaster decoration that could be eighteenth century, but was most likely done for Luke White at the time of his purchase.

The design is unusual and original, and does not fit easily into any particular category of plasterwork; it was probably done by local stuccodores working in a somewhat outdated manner.

It blends in admirably with the Adamesque Grisaille room, and the magnificent dining room, with its plaster birds and painted ceiling.

The Whites were also major landowners in County Longford, with 12,560 acres.

First published in September, 2011.

Friday 26 June 2020

Purdysburn Pictures

THE BATTS WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY DOWN, WITH 12,010 ACRES

The Belfast Health & Social Care Trust has kindly sent me several images of Purdysburn House, Newtownbreda, County Down, and its pleasure grounds prior to demolition ca 1965.


I've already written about the Batt family here.


The pleasure grounds were laid out in the form of a Union Flag, and the design was carried out with all the borders planted red, white and blue.


The wonderful yew-tree hedges were said to be unequalled in Northern Ireland. 

First published in September, 2016.

Thursday 25 June 2020

JAMES II

Photo Credit: Christ's Hospital Foundations
HIS MAJESTY KING JAMES THE SECOND (1633-1701)
by the Grace of God, King of England, Scotland, France and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, etc.

Monday 22 June 2020

Franklin Maxims: XI

TRICKS AND TREACHERY ARE THE PRACTICE OF FOOLS, THAT HAVE NOT WIT ENOUGH TO BE HONEST

Saturday 20 June 2020

The Red Trail

The Original Hut in 2016

Mount Stewart's Red Trail opened four years ago.

I first explored the trail on a glorious Sunday in May, 2016.

It was sunny and pleasantly warm.

After lunch at home I got a few things together and motored down the Ards Peninsula to Mount Stewart estate, a property of the National Trust, though formerly the ancestral seat of the Stewarts, Marquesses of Londonderry.

The Red Trail runs on land to the south-east of the demesne.

Having ambled past the Lookout and had a look in the shop inside the mansion house, I donned the wellington boots, ensured that my camera was in the pocket, and began the walk.

The Red Trail starts at a quaint little shepherd's hut, a sort of information centre for greeting visitors.

I walked in and chatted for several minutes to the person on duty.


The trail cuts through woodland and then there was a gradual ascent to Temple Hill and the Temple of the Winds, an octagonal building perched at the top of the hill, with a spectacular prospect of Strangford Lough.

The Temple was inspired by the Grand Tour the 1st Marquess took in his youth.


From here we begin a descent, walking on fairly level ground through enchanting woodland to the north-west of Patterson's Hill.

Eventually I emerged at a clearing, where there is a very large field at Cumming's Hill.

To my right, isolated and overgrown in semi-woodland, there's an old, derelict stone lodge or cottage.

It was doubtless inhabited by an estate worker and his family, perhaps a woodsman or gardener.


It appears rather romantic now, with the creeping ivy and resident crows, a pair of which I disturbed.

The windows are open to the elements.

Hopefully, in time, this will be restored as a holiday cottage.

Downpatrick Lodge and North Lodge at Castle Ward were both once derelict for many years until they were restored; and now they have tenants.

I continue my walk, northwards towards Bell's Hill.

The Glen Burn, a small river, runs alongside the Red Trail for part of the way.

Between Cumming's Hill and Bell's Hill there is a glen, where I made a short detour past picturesque little hump-back bridges to The Folly, at ruinous cottage ornée at the top of a hillock.

The Folly

It has the familiar Gothic window apertures seen, too, at the old schoolhouse; only the bare walls remain, though, and there is evidence of plasterwork on some of them.

This ruinous building aroused my curiosity.

There's something particularly special about walking new trails and discovering unknown features for the very first time.

According to my old chart there are the ruins of an old chapel or church at the extreme north of the Glen; at the edge of the estate, in fact.

Continuing my walk I begin a slight climb, past Bell's Hill, to the old piggery; then through a handsome, new, wooden gate which leads to a small track.

This track winds its way up New Hill, though a carpet of bluebells and woodland. It is relatively steep.

New Hill descends towards sea-level and brings one back to the start of the trail again.

First published in May, 2016.

Sunday 14 June 2020

Hare's Gap Trek

The Hare's Gap in the distance
Why do some people dump litter? I'm a great believer in the Leave No Trace principle. You'd hardly know I'd been.

I even get irritated if, in a gale or gust, a tissue or plastic wrapper inadvertently blows away from me.

Plastic bottles seem to be among the worst offenders. They weigh so little when they're empty. Their owners might as well carry them home.

On Sunday, the 13th June, 2020, I went on another mini-hike, this time to the Hare's Gap in the Mourne Mountains, County Down.


I suppose Bryansford is the nearest village. Trassey Road leads you to a small car-park, though it was completely full at 10am, and lots of cars were parked along the narrow verge.

Trassey Track, as it's known, leads directly to the famous Hare's Gap, a kind of col nestled between Slieve Bearnagh and Slievenaglogh.


At this time of year Foxgloves proliferate the Mournes; such beautiful wild flowers they are.

The track follows the Trassey River for part of the way.


It's a fairly gentle ascent, by Mourne standards, and takes perhaps an hour or so.

The Mourne Wall at Hare's Gap

The scenery is magnificent on a clear day, and the col at the top is a good place to have a snack and enjoy the prospect.

The old Raichle boots have served me well during their twenty-five or more years.


I descended along a path that skirts Slieve Meelmore for some distance, before joining the track itself.

Later on I drove through Bryansford and into Newcastle, where I found a parking space at the top of King Street.

King Street is an interesting road. It leads to the former gate lodge of Donard Lodge, and what appears to be a former walled garden (now developed inside).

There are some handsome and admirable villas in King Street.


Having parked I strolled in a triangular route between the old gate lodge, the harbour, and the old parish church (on the 'rock').

The church was closed, though the Annesley arms adorn its main entrance.

The former Annesley estate office and hall are here, on the promenade.

State Coach


The  magnificent Londonderry State Coach, now restored by the National Trust, is usually on display at Mount Stewart in County Down.

The colours of the coach are of significance, since the heraldic colours sable (black) and or (yellow or gold) feature in the Londonderry coat-of-arms.

This coach, which dates back to 1880s, was used by the Londonderry family to travel to the coronations of EDWARD VII, GEORGE V, GEORGE VI, as well as royal weddings and great state occasions in London.


Several years ago the National Trust approached the 9th Marquess, who owned the coach, with the aim of restoring and conserving this historically important artefact.

Now, after months of restoration by National Trust experts and with an project investment of around £100,000, the coach is displayed in all its sumptuous glory at Mount Stewart.


In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the Londonderry family had several homes across the UK, including Mount Stewart , travelling frequently between them with several carriages kept at each residence, suitable for a variety of uses.


This particular coach would have only ever been used for state occasions and is now in Northern Ireland for the first time where previously it remained at the family’s London home, Londonderry House, in Park Lane.

Londonderry House, Park Lane

Very few state coaches now survive and the National Trust has four examples of such carriages which can be seen at Powis Castle, Wales; Tatton Park, Cheshire; Arlington Court, Devon; and Mount Stewart, County Down.

Frances Bailey, the National Trust Curator, commented:
“As a conservation charity, we are very fortunate to have had the opportunity to invest in the restoration of the Londonderry State Coach. We have gathered really interesting stories, coronation footage, old images of the coach and the people associated with it; to give visitors a strong sense of what this grand vehicle would have been used for and of the important aristocratic family it belongs to."

The late Lady Mairi Bury remembered the coach well, recalling the time when her parents, the 7th Marquess and Marchioness, attended the coronation of King George VI in 1937 whilst wearing their coronation robes and coronets.

This was also the last time the coach was ever used.

Lady Mairi was a keen photographer at that time and took some snaps of her parents on their procession to Westminster Abbey for the great event.

The images portray the excitement of the day and show the crowd that had gathered outside their London home to see the carriage set off.

These photographs, other stories and the splendid coach can be viewed at Mount Stewart.

Visitors can learn about the coach, the Londonderry family, as well as the staffing of stately homes.

First published in March, 2010.

Friday 12 June 2020

Glenarm Castle Tour

IN JUNE, 2015, I PAID A VISIT TO GLENARM CASTLE, ANCESTRAL SEAT OF THE EARLS OF ANTRIM
GLENARM CASTLE IS THE ANCESTRAL SEAT OF THE EARLS OF ANTRIM


I was in my element during the weekend: the ducal seat of Baronscourt, County Tyrone, on Saturday; and  Glenarm Castle, County Antrim, yesterday.

Viscount and Viscountess Dunluce (Lord Dunluce is heir to the Earl of Antrim) have done a marvellous job of restoring and rejuvenating their stately home beside the historic village of Glenarm.

Glenarm Castle estate extends today to about 1,300 acres.

Antrim arms

I arrived in Glenarm  at about eleven forty-five, just in time for the first guided tour of the Castle.

George, the butler, and Elaine, the housekeeper, were on hand to guide us through the principal rooms.

East Elevation

The present Castle seems to date from 1756, although there have been many additions and alterations since then.

Out tour began in the hall, which rises two storeys.

There are a number of family portraits here, including one of Louisa, wife of the 5th Earl and niece of the 2nd Earl Grey, Prime Minister from 1830-34.

A fine serving-table, dating from 1750, stands below the portrait of Anne Catherine, Countess of Antrim suo jure.

The wonderfully ethereal ceiling was painted by Angela (née Sykes), Countess of Antrim (1911-84).

Garden Front

OUR NEXT stop was the drawing-room.

The late Angela, Lady Antrim, painted scenes from La Fontaine's Fables round the ceiling in the 1950s.

Many ancestral portraits hang here, including four 18th century landscape paintings of the family's two castles, Dunluce and Glenarm.

A number of personal family photographs stand on the grand piano.


THE DINING-ROOM is spacious and elegant, containing two full-length portraits of the 5th and 6th Earls.

Randal, 6th Earl and 2nd Marquess of Antrim (1749-91) wears the robes of the Order of the Bath.

The dining-table was laid for six today, though can be considerably enlarged, I gather, to accommodate up to twelve.

Crockery is monogrammed with the Earl of Antrim's cipher.

We were told that the open fire is seldom lit here because its draught is somewhat less than satisfactory.


THE BLUE ROOM was originally the billiards-room.

There are quite a few equine paintings on the wall, drawn for the 5th Earl, a passionate horseman who kept a stud in the estate.

The 5th Earl is said to have been an avid gambler (hardly surprising given his fondness for the Turf) who squandered much of his money.


Like Baronscourt in County Tyrone, Glenarm Castle flourishes today thanks to Lord and Lady Dunluce's love and passion for this historic family home; its magnificent gardens; the wooden obelisk hand-crafted by Corin Giles; the beautiful cascade and fountains; the herb garden; and the yew circle.


THE BARBICAN gate lodge is built into the estate wall at the end of an old stone bridge spanning the river Glenarm.

It was commissioned in 1823 by Edmund Phelps, the second husband of Anne Catherine, Countess of Antrim suo jure, who inherited the estate when her father, the 6th Earl, died without male issue.

The architect William Vitruvius Morrison built it using local, coursed, rubble basalt and red ashlar sandstone dressings.

This gate lodge has a narrow turret staircase which leads onto a roof terrace overlooking the surrounding countryside.

*****

BEFORE I conclude this article, I must mention the Castle Tea Room.


I lunched here yesterday and enjoyed a hearty and nourishing bowl of home-made sweet potato and parsnip soup, with a fresh bread roll and butter.


Having complimented the staff, I bade them farewell.

Wednesday 10 June 2020

The Duke of Edinburgh

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE PHILIP, Baron Greenwich, Earl of Merioneth and Duke of Edinburgh, KG, KT, OM, GBE, is 99 today.

  • Royal Knight of the Most Noble Order of the Garter (KG)
  • Royal Knight of the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle (KT)
  • Member of the Order of Merit (OM)
  • Grand Master, First and Principal Knight Grand Cross of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (GBE)
His Royal Highness is Admiral of the Fleet in the Royal Navy, Field Marshal in the Army and Marshal of the Royal Air Force.

Photo Credit: Defence Academy of the United Kingdom

In 2011, Her Majesty The Queen appointed Prince Philip Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom.

Saturday 6 June 2020

Blue Trail Walk

IN JULY, 2016, I WALKED FOR THE VERY FIRST TIME ALONG MOUNT STEWART'S NEW BLUE TRAIL

Today is a Jazz in the Garden day at Mount Stewart, the National Trust's beautiful property on the Ards Peninsula, County Down.

However, my purpose was to walk the brand new Blue Trail.

This new trail doesn't officially open until next Wednesday, I gather, though visitors are being treated to a preview.


The trail passes a field of barley and a derelict cottage with a rusty corrugated iron roof.

I searched for the ruins of an ancient church in a field close to the Glen, though all I could find were several large stones.


The trail meanders through lovely woodland till it joins the Red Trail at a junction which leads to The Folly, where I lunched this afternoon.

I sat on a wooden chair in the folly, had a beaker of tea, and ate my fresh fruit.


Thence I walked along the track, past a wild-flower meadow with cornflowers, past the old piggery, and back to my car.

First published in July, 2016.

Thursday 4 June 2020