Belle Isle: I

Ross arms

REMINISCENCES FROM JULIAN BROWN, WHOSE FAMILY ONCE HAD CLOSE TIES WITH BELLE ISLE ESTATE, COUNTY FERMANAGH

By the 1950s, the Belle Isle Castle household had abandoned the elegant Georgian bay-windowed formal dining-room, except for special occasions.

Dinner was taken in the original old kitchen, which was part of a suite of sculleries, pantries and store rooms on the west side of the castle, whose windows looked out onto the road to the West Island. 

The repast was still conducted in some style: A huge, white damask tablecloth was spread on one of the wooden kitchen tables; and this was laid with the Belle Isle silver, beautiful salts, Georgian cutlery and antique silver napkin rings.

Mr Henry Porter sat at one end of the table; and, on most evenings, Mr Dick Hermon, of Necarne Castle, sat at the other.

Mrs Mary Brunt and her daughters Vida Leigh and Hilda Brunt (Tiggy) sat at the sides of the table, as did any guests (Mr Hermon often stayed at Belle Isle: he had his own room, the blue dressing room, and he had been married to Mr Porter’s sister.

Miss Tiggy would have been be in charge of ‘service’ and was assisted by the Belle Isle cook, Miss Ellen McDougal (of whom more another time); and often my mother, Pearl Brown, helped as well.

On one occasion my sister Audrey, who was about four, and myself, aged nine, were sitting near the Aga watching.

Seen, but not heard!

Miss McDougal was the most wonderful cook: she could produce anything.

However, on the occasion in question, the main course was roast swan – don’t know where it came from or the legalities of it!

Notwithstanding Miss McDougal's skills, the ‘old bird’ was very tough: Mr Hermon chewed manfully but dislodged a tooth in the attempt!

Out came the meat and the tooth. 

Audrey and I got fits of the giggles, which was unfortunate because, while the household generally were very fond of us, Mr Hermon was not. 

He did not take to children.

Our mother had to remove us speedily!

This was one of my father Esmond’s favourite stories.

He was an excellent mimic, and Mr Hermon’s predicament was recounted many times.

Miss Lavinia Baird moved the kitchens to what had been the Servants Hall in the 1970s (now Hamilton wing?); and I understand that the kitchen has been moved again, into what was the old Housekeeper's Room in the main body of the castle. 

The photograph shows Mrs Brunt; her daughter, Mrs Vida Leigh; and Julian as an infant on the steps of the french windows into the Drawing Room at Belle Isle Castle in 1949.

First published in February, 2012.    Ross arms courtesy of European Heraldry.

Drum Manor

THE EARLS CASTLE STEWART WERE THE SECOND LARGEST LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY TYRONE, WITH 32,615 ACRES

DRUM MANOR, near Cookstown, County Tyrone, originally called Oaklands, was built in 1829.

It was remodelled and extended in 1869 to the designs of the architect William Hastings, and renamed Drum Manor.

The house of 1829 was built for Major William Stewart Richardson-Brady, DL, and comprised a triple-gabled east front, of which only the ground floor blind walling, rectangular bay windows and polygonal south-east bay remain.

The extensions of 1869 were built for Lord Stuart, and were described at the time as the "tower and main building" of which only the four-storey tower survives intact.

(Image: Ashley McLean)

Of Hastings' original main building the remaining north front, including the main entrance porch, the south front, and probably also the porch on the east side may be identified.

In addition, the south terrace balustrading and steps, and the screen wall and gateway of 1876, may be attributed to Hastings.

Hastings' other works here included the two gate lodges, also of the 1870s.

The manor house was semi-derelict by 1970, with slated roofs, though the roofs were later removed, gables taken down, and the entire interior space, apart from the tower, cleared away to form an open garden within mainly ground floor perimeter walls. 

It owes its origins to the marriage in 1868 of Henry James Stuart-Richardson, Viscount Stuart (later 5th Earl Castle Stewart) to Augusta Liviscount Richardson-Brady, heiress to the Oaklands estate.

Lord Stuart's armorial bearings (top) adorn the manor house.

(Image: Ashley McLean)

Augusta Richardson-Brady was Major Richardson-Brady's daughter.

Her second marriage was to Lord Stuart in 1866. 

She died in 1908 at Drum Manor, without male issue.

In 1865, her name was legally changed to Augusta Liviscount Richardson-Brady by Royal Licence; and, from 1867, her married name became Stuart-Richardson. 

As a result of her marriage, she became the Countess Castle Stewart in 1874.

Immediately upon marriage, Lord Stuart set about reconstructing Oaklands into the Tudor-Revival edifice known as Drum Manor. 

This battlemented sandstone structure once had a tall tower to the east, near the entrance front which was dominated by a huge entrance portal; surmounted by a large tracery window which contained Victorian armorial stained-glass.

Lord Stuart was also responsible for setting out the formal gardens and demesne which survive to this day.

TODAY, Drum Manor Forest Park is one of Cookstown's largest tourist attractions, though only the ground floor outer walls of the manor house survive.

The Northern Ireland Forest Service acquired the estate from the Close family in 1964, and opened it as a forest park in 1970.

The tower and the ground floor walls of the early Victorian manor-house remain intact. 

The balustrade terrace is worth visiting, as the pleasure-grounds and backdrop were specifically designed to provide an impressive vista from this single vantage point.

The pleasure grounds and ponds were developed during a major alteration of the house in the 1870s.

They contain a number of interesting tree species, and the layout of the plantings was carried out deliberately to create a special atmosphere.

Drum Manor Forest Park has many facilities available for educational visits including nature trails, guided tours, picnic areas, seasonal cafe, disabled access toilets and commercially managed forest. 

The forest plots were established from 1965 onwards and include both native and exotic tree species.

The demesne (then known as Oaklands) was established in the 18th century. 

The present house of 1829 exists as a shell.

This serves the purpose of retaining the main building within the landscape but it is unfortunate that it no longer exists as usable. 

In an attempt to avoid incurring rates liability, the Forest Service demolished the mansion.


The manor house was partially demolished in 1975 and a ‘Japanese’ garden was created within the ruins.

A tower, from which there are fine views and additions of 1896, is notable.

There are many excellent ornamental attributes within the site and good planting.

There are mature stands of beech, including a beech shelter belt on the southern perimeter, with a walk inside and a now disused beech avenue leading from a former entrance on the northern side.

The terracing on the south (garden) front of the manor-house survives, complete with a little stone summer house.

This leads to lawns, with trees and shrubs and on to a series of large artificial ponds or lakes, the western of which is silted up.

There are pleasant walks round the lake via bridges.

The walled garden is divided into two parts, formerly laid out in box edges beds in a geometric pattern.

These were grubbed out in favour of a 1970s layout and planting, which is maintained.

Part of the walled garden is designated as a butterfly garden.

The Gardener’s House lies between the walled gardens and is in good repair. 

The stable yard, farm yard and haggard are now car parks.

There are two listed lodges of ca 1870, of which the Cookstown Gate has an impressive entrance archway.

Changes in road alignment have altered the shape of the demesne, which is now 227 acres. 

It was taken over for forestry in 1964 and designated a Forest Park in 1970; the site is a well maintained public amenity with good facilities. 

First published in March, 2011.   I am grateful to the Countess Castle Stewart for information.  Stuart-Richardson arms courtesy of the NLI.

Palmerstown House

THE EARLS OF MAYO OWNED 4,915 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY KILDARE

This family, MacWILLIAM BOURKE, and that of CLANRICARDE, derive from a common ancestor, viz. WILLIAM FITZADELM DE BURGO, who succeeded STRONGBOW as chief governor of Ireland, 1176. Sir Theobald Bourke, of Ardnaree, the last MacWilliam Bourke in Ireland, escaped to Spain, and was created by PHILIP III Marquis of Mayo.

DAVID BOURKE, of Moneycrower (Bunacrower), during the reign of HENRY VIII, had three sons,

Edmond;

JOHN, of whom we treat;

Miles.

The second son,

JOHN BOURKE, of Moneycrower (Bunacrower), was a captain of horse under the Marquess of Ormonde during the troubles in Ireland, in 1641; at the termination of which he took up his abode at Kill, County Kildare, and marrying Catherine, daughter of Meyler Fay, and niece of Sir Paul Davys, had (with three daughters),

Miles, dsp;
Walter, dsp;
Theobald, dsp;
RICKARD, of whom presently. 

The youngest son,

RICKARD BOURKE LL.D, of Dublin, married Catherine, daughter of Charles Minchin, of Ballinakill, County Tipperary, and was father of

THE RT HON JOHN BOURKE (c1700-90), MP for Naas, 1727-60, 1768-76, Old Leighlin, 1761-8, who wedded, in 1725, Mary, third daughter and co-heir of the Rt Hon Joseph Deane, Chief Baron of the Irish Exchequer, and had issue,

JOHN, his heir;
JOSEPH DEANE (Most Rev), Lord Archbishop of Tuam, 3rd Earl;
Richard;
Thomas;
Catherine; Elizabeth; Margaret; Eleanor.

Mr Bourke having been sworn previously of the Irish privy council, was elevated to the peerage, in 1776, in the dignity of Baron Naas, of Naas, County Kildare; and advanced to a viscountcy, 1781, as Viscount Mayo, of Moneycrower (Bunacrower), County Mayo.

His lordship was further advanced to the dignity of an earldom, in 1785, as EARL OF MAYO.

The 1st Earl was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN, 2nd Earl (1729-92), MP for Naas, 1763-90, who espoused, in 1764, the Lady Mary Leeson, daughter of Joseph, Earl of Milltown, but died without issue, when the honours devolved upon his brother,

JOSEPH DEANE (Most Rev), Lord Archbishop of Tuam, as 3rd Earl (c1740-94), who married, in 1760, Elizabeth, only daughter of Sir Richard Meade Bt, and sister of John, 1st Earl of Clanwilliam, by whom he had issue,

JOHN, 4th Earl;
Richard (Rt Rev), Lord Bishop of Waterford;
Joseph (Very Rev), Dean of Ossory;
George Theobald (Rev);
and eight daughters.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

John, 4th Earl (1766–1849);
Robert, 5th Earl (1797–1867);
Richard Southwell, 6th Earl (1822-72);
Dermot Robert Wyndham, 7th Earl (1851–1927);
Walter Longley, 8th Earl (1859–1939);
Ulick Henry, 9th Earl (1890–1962);
Terence Patrick, 10th Earl (1929–2006);
Charles Diarmuidh John, 11th Earl (b 1953).

The heir apparent is the present holder's eldest son, Richard Thomas Bourke, styled Lord Naas (b 1985).

PALMERSTOWN HOUSE, near Johnstown, County Kildare, is a mansion-house rebuilt in late-Victorian "Queen Anne" style.

6th Earl of Mayo KP GCSI PC

The mansion was built by public subscription as a tribute to the memory of the 6th Earl of Mayo, Chief Secretary for Ireland and later Viceroy of India.

The 6th Earl was assassinated by an escaped convict in the Andaman Islands in 1872.

One front has a recessed centre and three-bay projections, joined by a colonnade of coupled columns. Another front has a pediment elevated on a three-bay attic, between two three-sided bows.

The house has a Mansard roof with pedimented dormers.

The mansion was burnt in 1923, though afterwards rebuilt with a flat roof and balustraded parapet.

Palmerstown has had a succession of owners, including Mrs B Lawlor, who began her career as cook to the 7th Earl and Countess.

Palmerstown House now functions as a de luxe golf golf resort and functions including christenings, communions, confirmations, family celebrations, retirement parties, anniversaries, corporate events, team-building exercises etc.

Mayo arms courtesy of European Heraldry.

3 Kinnegar Road

Here is an establishment I have spent many happy hours in, ever since I've been old enough to enjoy a dram or two.

It is now the Dirty Duck Ale House.

The Dirty Duck is situated at the corner of Kinnegar Avenue and Kinnegar Road, at the esplanade in the garrison town of Holywood in County Down.

It enjoys a fine prospect overlooking Belfast Lough.

My father played here during his childhood at the rickety wooden jetty with his chums.

They swam and sailed in dinghies.

This licensed premises has changed its name five times.

Click to Enlarge

It was first opened as the Kinnegar Hotel in 1868, the proprietor being one Daniel Ship.

At the turn of the 19th century it changed hands and became the Kinnegar Bar.

The Kinnegar Bar (Image: Chris Skelly)

Twenty years or so later, it was bought by Alexander Steen (whose name is inscribed on the gable in the old photograph) who restored its original name, although it was invariably known, quite simply, as Steen's.

I vaguely remember Fred Steen who, probably, was Alexander's son.

I think that at that period till the 1970s, the Inn was really a "drinking man's pub".

Click to Enlarge

This was the period when it became the Kinnegar Inn.

The bar's name changed, yet again, to The Clipper, in 1984.

The Clipper became the Waterfront during the 1990s.

Since then, it has changed hands several times.

I seem to recall that, at some stage, SIR JOHN GRAHAM Bt had an interest in it; indeed he may have owned it.

The Grahams had a country house near Dromore.

When I was at Brackenber, they invited us to make use of their swimming-pool which, I think, was outdoors.

I have fond memories of the bar in the 1980s.

I particularly liked the cosy upstairs lounge bar with its banquette, red velour cushioned seating.

Occasionally my father and I enjoyed a drink there of a summer's evening, watching the boats coming up and down the lough.

First published in February, 2009.

Kelly's Cellars, Belfast

Kelly's Cellars, Bank Street, Belfast ca 1960 (Image: eBay)

Much has already been written about Kelly's Cellars, the celebrated public house located at 30-32, Bank Street in Belfast.

I propose, nevertheless, to condense some of the more salient and relevant information relating to that notable establishment.

Bank Street, as it is now called, is (or was) one of the oldest and most historic streets in Belfast.

It runs from 2, Royal Avenue, to Chapel Lane, where it terminates at St Mary's Church.

This street is shown in Thomas Phillips' 1685 map of central Belfast as a lane veering off from Castle Street, with houses lining it on each side.

It was once known as Bryce's Lane; Crooked Lane or simply Back of the River; Cunningham Row; Bank Lane; and today as Bank Street.

Thomas Phillips' 1685 map of central Belfast

The crooked bend in the lane, caused by Kelly's Cellars, appears in a 1757 plan.

Whereas it is generally accepted by historians that the present building dates from at least 1780, buildings existed here in 1685; so proprietors' claims that the premises were established in 1720 could conceivably be true.

Doubtless Kelly's Cellars is the oldest public bar in Belfast.

McHugh's Bar, at Queen's Square, is an older building, said to date from ca 1711; though it did not operate as a public house until the 19th century. 

White's Tavern, according to Historic Buildings Branch, "probably dates from the late 18th century;" the date of 1630 "does not necessarily refer to the construction of a building on the current site but is most likely derived from the granting of a continuous tavern licence which was not restricted to a particular area or building."

The first recorded tenant of Kelly's Cellars, about 1830, was Hugh Kelly, a wine and spirit merchant.

Kelly leased the premises from Robert Stewart, who administered the estate on behalf of Captain William Mussenden, of Larchfield, County Down (the Mussendens were prosperous bankers in Belfast, and owned property in and around Bank Street).

Hugh Kelly died in 1871 at his residence in Holywood, County Down.

A painting of Bank Street drawn in 1920 by Frank McKelvey

Following Hugh Kelly's death the premises were leased by Young, King, and Co.

Kelly's Cellars was damaged during the Belfast blitz in 1941, and purchased from the Mussenden Estate in 1942 by James Tohill of the Tohill Vino wine company.

Jimmy Tohill carried out more alterations to the bar's interior, when a cocktail bar was opened upstairs in 1948, followed by the Tudor Lounge in 1954.

Kelly's Cellars was sold for £43,000 in 1961 (equivalent to about £800,000 in 2024) to Kevin O'Kane.

Bank Street, Belfast, with whitewashed Kelly's Cellars, ca 1973,
Image: Guy Butler Slides Archive, History Hub Ulster

Croft Inns, a division of Guinness and Co., purchased Kelly's Cellars as well as the Fountain Tavern in 1972.

Lily Mulholland and Martin O’Hara bought Kelly's Cellars in 2004 and are the current proprietors.

Bank Street entry for 1974
Click to Enlarge

The historic buildings department of the Northern Ireland Department for Communities remarks in its general comments:-

"Two-storey painted brick public house perhaps c1720 but definitely constructed by 1757. It is reputed to be the oldest public house in Belfast and an impression of this character survives, despite extensive alterations. However, more recent changes and renovations have resulted in the loss of most historic fabric and detailing and have compromised its historic and architectural interest."

"Although no longer a Georgian, or even Victorian, public house, it is of historic significance due to its strong connection to the 1798 Rebellion and the continuous presence of the public house in this location from the time of the early development of the city."

Kirkistown Castle

KIRKISTOWN CASTLE, near Cloughy, County Down, was built in 1622 by Roland Savage, of Ballygalget, County Down.

It remained in the Savage family until the 1660s, when it was sold by James Savage to Captain James McGill, Ballyministragh, near Killinchy, County Down.

James McGill, son of the Rev David McGill, married Jean Bailie of Inishargy.

They lived at Kirkistown Castle and Ballynester, Greyabbey.

James McGill "improved the place very much", and also erected a nearby windmill, the stump of which still survives.

He died in 1683.

Captain Hugh McGill was recorded as an overseer of Henry Savage’s will, dated 1655.

Hugh McGill’s daughter, Lucy McGill, was born in 1685 at Castle Balfour, Lisnaskea, County Fermanagh.

She married William Savage, of Audleystown and Kirkistown, who died in 1733.

In 1683 William Montgomery, as well as commending McGill for his investment in the area, described the castle as being in good repair and remarked that its "late erected garden walls are washed with a pleasant fresh lough near the sea" (alluding to land on the eastern elevation of the castle now drained).

In 1744 Walter Harris described the castle as "surrounded by a high wall and strongly built."

He also remarked that "contained within the circuit of it" was "a good dwelling house" in which the then owner, Lucy McGill (Captain McGill's granddaughter) was living.

In the early 1800s Kirkistown Castle was the residence Lucy McGill’s granddaughter, Mary, who married William Montgomery, of Greyabbey.

During this period the building was in poor condition, and William Montgomery commenced the refurbishment of the property, enlarging windows, renovating the interior and, possibly, constructing buttresses and the barn.

When Mr Montgomery died, nevertheless, the work was uncompleted, his son and heir was a minor, and work ceased.

In 1837 it was noted that the structure had a "half-finished roof and broken window", and was reverting to its "former state of ruin."

Mr Montgomery’s widow, Mary, granted use of the castle in 1840 to the Cloughey Presbyterian congregation, in order to hold services whilst the church was under construction.

It is unclear what happened the castle after the congregation had left for their new church, but Alexander Knox, writing in 1875, remarked that the castle was in the possession of Hugh Montgomery, and had been restored and returned to its former use as a dwelling house.

Kirkistown Castle continued to be used as accommodation by the Montgomerys until the beginning of the 20th century.

The castle was subsequently sold to the Brown family, who in turn passed it on to the state.

The castle is now a state care monument and has never been a listed property.

First published in September, 2018.

New Lord-Lieutenant

APPOINTMENT OF LORD-LIEUTENANT OF COUNTY TYRONE

The King has been pleased to appoint Mr William James Baxter QPM DL as His Majesty’s Lord-Lieutenant of County Tyrone, to succeed Sir Robert William Lowry Scott KCVO OBE following his retirement on 17th June 2026.