Cootehill: II

Cootehill Railway Station Entrance Front (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

After breakfast on Saturday morning I wandered from Bridge Street, in Cootehill, County Cavan, to the wide main street (Market Street).

I passed the Methodist and Presbyterian churches on Bridge Street, before turning left at Market Street.

The old manse between two churches (Image: postcard)

The old photograph above, taken from a postcard of about 1900, shows the Methodist church to the left; the old manse in the middle; and the present Presbyterian church to the right.

I happened to be peering in through the window of the former White Horse Hotel, in Market Street, when somebody from across the road hailed me.

I couldn't quite hear him, so crossed the road to the post office, where he was awaiting a bulky item, to have a word with him.

Kevin, it transpired, was as interested in heritage as myself, and we chatted for awhile about this and that.

He explained that he was a local man, though had lived in Michigan, USA, for a number of years; and that was where he had met his wife (he was collecting a parcel for their daughter).

Concrete shed on the former railway track (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

Kevin invited me to get into his car, and took me to see the old railway station outside the town, now a livestock market (there's a long livestock shed where the railway line used to be, outside the station).

The former Cootehill Railway Station is less than a mile from the town.

It would have been convenient for Bellamont Forest and Dartrey.

The railway line must have passed through land belonging to Lords Bellamont and Dartrey.

Platform Front ca 1900 (Image: postcard)

The station, operated by the Dundalk and Enniskillen Railway (later amalgamated with the Great Northern Railway), opened in 1860.

Cootehill railway station was on a spur off the Enniskillen-to-Dundalk line, from near Ballybay through Rockcorry and terminating at Cootehill.

It closed down less than a century later, in 1947.

This handsome little railway station remains in good order, having been restored to some extent by its present owner.

It was built in the Early English Gothic-Revival style, and comprises five bays and two storeys.

The entrance and platform fronts differ slightly in design.

Unfortunately I was unable to take a photograph of the platform front because it’s obscured by a concrete shed (not to say private).

I had intended walking back to the town from the railway station, though Kevin offered me a lift back, and took me past the location of the old Church of Ireland parish church in Church Street, which was abandoned about 1818 for the present church, All Saints, in Market Street).

First published in August, 2020).

Cootehill: I

The Dawson Monument (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

The Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland describes Cootehill, County Cavan, thus:-

A post and market town in the parish of Drumgoon, barony of Tullaghgarvey. It stands on the River Dromore, and the country around it, including part of County Monaghan, is very beautiful; and within a radius of three miles, contains, among other mansions, those of Bellamont Forest and Dartrey.

The Gazetteer goes on to remark that the town is comparatively well built and respectably inhabited; and is not equalled in appearance by any place between it and Dublin except Navan.

A local historian and friend had arranged for us to see Dartrey, which is near Cootehill, so I based my self in the town for a few days.

Cootehill has a wide main street, which terminates at All Saints parish church (the Rector being the aptly-named Rev David Moses).

The White Horse Hotel, market-house, courthouse, and the provincial bank were also at this end of the town; and the church was within the grounds of Bellamont Forest.

The Dawson Monument, on the Cootehill to Monaghan Road, County Monaghan, is a Roman-Tuscan column, sixty feet in height, designed by the renowned architect, James Wyatt, and erected in memory of Richard Dawson MP (1762-1807).

This column used to be within the Dartrey Estate, though the realignment of the present road caused it to be separated from the demesne.

It was built ca 1810 with cut and carved limestone, in the form of a Doric column on a lofty plinth, topped with a funerary urn, carved with lions' heads, set on an abacus.

The Doric column has a stepped base and plinth, with three steps leading to the base.

Dartrey Heritage Association undertook restoration work on the column quite recently.

Dawson Coat-of-arms (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

The Dawson family shield with laurel leaves adorns the plinth.

The Dawson Monument would undoubtedly have dominated the surrounding landscape when it was erected, and despite the forestry surrounding it today, it remains a major feature in the area.

Dartrey Church (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

From Dawson's Column I made my way to the main church which served the once-great Dartrey Estate.

The Dawsons, Earls of Dartrey, owned almost 18,000 acres of land in County Monaghan.

Their former seat, Dartrey House (or Castle) was demolished in 1946; though more about that later.

Over two decades ago, about 1996, the Rev Canon James Merry, Rector of Ematris (Dartrey Church and Rockcorry Church), wrote a brief history of his Parish.

Dartrey Church, within the demesne boundary, was built by Richard Dawson (c1693-1766), MP, banker, Alderman of the City of Dublin, of Dawson Grove (now called Dartrey).

It was consecrated in 1729 as the Church of St John the Evangelist.

In 1769 the north gallery was erected, with a fireplace, for the use of the Dawson family.

The West Tower was built in 1840; and thirty years later, in 1870, the sanctuary apse was completed.

The Dawsons were closely involved with the running of the parish from Alderman Dawson's time until the last member of the family to reside in the estate, the Lady Edith Windham (née Dawson).

Lord Dartrey had, for many years, the right to present his nominee to the Bishop for appointment as Rector of Ematris.

Several members of the Dawson family are buried in the graveyard which surrounds the church, though one figure's gravestone caught my eye: Brigadier Eric Dorman-O'Gowan MC.

He was removed from his military posting by Winston Churchill, with whom he then continued a long legal battle over the issue.

The acting Major-General, a life-long Catholic, then proceeded to change his name from Smith to O’Gowan and retired to the family home at Bellamont Forest, where he eagerly embraced Irish Republicanism.

He is said to have sold lead from the roof of Bellamont for the cause, and to have allowed the IRA to train on the estate.

First published in August, 2020.

New Belfast DL

APPOINTMENT OF DEPUTY LIEUTENANT

Dame Fionnuala Jay-O’Boyle DBE, Lord-Lieutenant of the County Borough of Belfast, has been pleased to appoint:-

Professor Gillian Alexandra Armstrong MBE
Belfast

To be a Deputy Lieutenant of the County Borough her Commission bearing date the 21st day of September 2026


Signed: Fionnuala Jay-O’Boyle DBE DStJ LLD

Lord Lieutenant of the County Borough

Richardson of Lissue

THE REV JOHN RICHARDSON, Rector of Warmington, Warwickshire, married Margaret __________, and had issue,

Joseph, of Mollington;

William;

ZACHARY, of whom presently;

John (Rev), Rector of Loughgall;

Joan; Margery.

Mr Richardson died in 1614.

The third son,

ZACHARY RICHARDSON, of Loughgall, County Armagh, had issue, with a son, William, another son,

JONATHAN RICHARDSON, of Eagralougher, Loughgall, who was father of

WILLIAM, of whom presently;
Samuel.

Mr Richardson died in 1691, and was succeeded by his elder son,

WILLIAM RICHARDSON, who wedded, in 1691, Mary Calvert, and had issue,

JONATHAN, of whom hereafter;
William;
Isabella.

Mr Richardson died in 1716, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

JONATHAN RICHARDSON, who espoused Elizabeth Nicholson, and had issue (with a daughter, Alice) a son,

JOHN RICHARDSON (1719-59), of Lisburn, who married Ruth Hogg, and had issue,

James, died unmarried;
JONATHAN, of whom hereafter.

The younger son,

JONATHAN RICHARDSON (1756-), wedded Sarah Nicholson, and had issue,

JAMES NICHOLSON, his heir;
John;
Joseph;
Mary.

The eldest son,

JAMES NICHOLSON RICHARDSON (1782-1847), of Glenmore, Lisburn, County Antrim, espoused A Grubb, and had issue,

Jonathan, his heir;
John Grubb, of Moyallon House;
JAMES NICHOLSON, of whom presently;
Thomas;
William;
Joshua;
Joseph.

The third son,

JAMES NICHOLSON RICHARDSON (1815-99), of Lissue House, Lisburn, County Antrim, married, in 1841, Margaret Maria, daughter of B Haughton, of Banford, Gilford, County Down, and had issue,

JAMES THEODORE, his heir;
Annie, m A Pim.

Mr Richardson was succeeded by his son and heir,

JAMES THEODORE RICHARDSON JP DL (1844-), who wedded, in 1873, Sarah Elizabeth, daughter of Edward Walker, of Springfield Mount, Leeds, and had issue,

James Herbert, b 1874;
Edward Theodore Haughton, b 1885;
Kathleen Marguerite; Mary Cecilia; Dorothy.

LISSUE HOUSE, Ballinderry, Lisburn, County Antrim, was built ca 1807.

Renovations were undertaken during the 19th and early 20th century by Thomas Jackson.

The house is said to have been built by Robert Garrett, “who built the present house about 30 years ago, but from failure was never able to make the designed improvements".

Subsequently, however, Mr Garrett sold or mortgaged the property to a Major McCauley, who in 1830 sold his right of it to Captain Robert Crawford, who proceeded to refurbish and renovate the house and demesne.

The Ordnance Survey Memoirs of that period remarked that

"Lissue, the seat of Captain Crawford, stands about one and a half miles from Lisburn… The house is commodious, stands two storeys high and slated and a handsome fruit and vegetable garden containing about two English acres enclosed partly by a stone and lime wall and partly by a quickset fence. 

The demesne, which consists of about 60 English acres, is chiefly plantations of several kinds of forest trees and the fields of an average size enclosed by quickset fences. 

The house stands on a handsome eminence commanding a most delightful prospect of a wide extent of the counties of Antrim and Down, also of Hillsborough and the improved seats in its vicinity."

Between 1856-64,  Lissue was acquired by James Nicholson Richardson, a son of the founder of J N Richardson, Sons, and Owden Ltd, linen manufacturers.

He and his brothers founded the firm of Richardson Brothers & Co. of Belfast, linen yarn merchants, which in 1840 opened an office in Liverpool for the import of flax, grain and other raw materials and the export of linen yarn and cloth.

They also founded the Inman Line of steamships with the Inman family, though following an altercation, Richardson left Liverpool and settled at Lissue.

John Nicholson Richardson made expansive improvements to the house about 1855, which included extending it to the rear and adding West and East gate lodges, under the direction of the architect Thomas Jackson.

The semi-circular porch, now removed, was also added at this time.

Between 1898 and 1915 a further major scheme of work was undertaken to the house: the semi-circular porch to the front facade was removed and two segmental bows added.

New cottages were also added to the estate.

In 1915 the occupier of Lissue was Joseph Tyney, probably a gentleman farmer.

By 1926 the occupier was John Campbell.

In 1927, Captain Lindsay purchased the house for £4,500 (about £269,000 in 2018) and made numerous improvements.

Accommodation comprised:cellars, dairy, laundry, coals, WC, garages, offices and a 400 gallon petrol tank.

Ground floor: three reception rooms, billiards-room, study, three cloakrooms, three WCs, sun porch, sewing-room, four pantries, scullery, larder, servants’ room.

First floor: five bathrooms, five WCs, twelve bedrooms, sewing-room, four servants’ bedrooms, WC and bath.

There were also two tennis courts and two badminton courts.

During the 2nd World War a section of the house was used by the Belfast Hospital for Sick Children, seemingly as a tuberculosis ward.

In 1946 it had been restored for use as a dwelling; by 1947, however, following Captain Lindsay’s death, it was transferred completely to the hospital.

The ground floor was used for five wards, matron’s office and drawing-room, kitchen apartments and lavatories; and the first floor was the resident nurses’ quarters.

In 1947 there were 35 beds, soon to be increased to 70.

In residence were a matron, sister, eight nurses and two resident maids, with a chauffeur/gardener occupying the gate lodge.

By 1948 all the outbuildings were also in use by the hospital, which vacated the premises in 1988.

In 1996 the house had lain empty for some time, but by 2002 it was occupied by the Livestock and Meat Marketing commission for Northern Ireland.

Lissue House was gutted by fire in 2016.

First published in September, 2018.

Fraser of Gortfoyle

JOHN FRASER (1803-75), a crofter, of Fort Augustus, Inverness-shire, married Margaret Tulloch, and had a son,

JAMES FRASER (1831-1908), of Plevna, Bloomfield, County Mayo, who married, in 1853, Catherine Ann, daughter of Robert Moore, of Donegal, and had issue,

ROBERT MOORE, of whom presently;
John James, d 1880;
Jane, d 1933.

Mr Fraser resided in successive properties in Belfast, including: 81 Springfield Terrace; 10 Cameron Street; Plevna Street; and, in 1902, 33 Cyprus Gardens, where he died in 1908.

The eldest son,

DR ROBERT MOORE FRASER (1865-1952), of Gortfoyle, Ballyhackamore, Belfast, married firstly, in 1899, Margaret Boal, daughter of Adam Boal Ferguson, of Lark Hill, County Antrim; and secondly, in 1907, Alice Josephine, youngest daughter of Dr Alexander Cuthbert, of Londonderry.

Dr Fraser practiced in his surgery at 211, Albertbridge Road, Belfast.

His residence was Gortfoyle, a villa at 364 Upper Newtownards Road, Ballyhackamore; and, after 1939, 10 Winston Gardens, Belfast.

Following Dr Fraser's death his widow, Margaret, moved to 20 Cloverhill Park, Belfast.

His son,

Sir Ian Fraser, by Carol Graham (Image: the Queen's University of Belfast)

 

BRIGADIER SIR IAN FRASER DSO OBE DL MD (1901-99), wedded, in 1931, Eleanor Margaret, daughter of Marcus Adolphus Mitchell, of Quarry House, Strandtown, Belfast, and had issue, 

IAN MARCUS, b 1939;
Mary Alice, b 1938.

Do any readers have photographs of Gortfoyle, Upper Newtownards Road, Belfast?

First published in April, 2014.

Carrick Lodge

THE MUSGRAVES WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY DONEGAL, WITH 23,693 ACRES

The Musgrave family may be said to have begun their connection with Belfast at the beginning of the Victorian era.

James Musgrave's father, Samuel Musgrave, was a general practitioner, who began there in 1799.

Dr Musgrave was about twenty when he started his practice.

His wife was Mary Riddel, a daughter of William Riddel, founder of Riddel & Company, Donegall Place and Fountain Street, Belfast.

The Musgrave firm was an off-shoot of the Riddel establishment.

The Musgrave family consisted of a dozen children.

When Dr Musgrave died at Lisburn aged 66 in 1834, the family soon removed to Belfast and lived in Upper Arthur Street.

By 1852 they were living at 1 Donegall Square South, and later moved to DRUMGLASS HOUSE, Malone Road, which they built ca 1855.

As young men, the brothers Robert and John Riddel were in partnership with their uncle, John Riddel, at 54 High Street in Belfast.

With their brother James they founded the firm Musgrave Brothers and opened the establishment on the 30th May 1843 (which later became Richard Patterson’s of 59 High Street).

Here the ironmongery trade was carried on successfully until expansion of business brought the manufacturing lines and, from 1860 onwards, this branch was conducted at the Ann Street Ironworks until a limited company was formed.

John and James Musgrave were the principals, Robert having died in 1867. From this time forward the firm of Musgrave & Company Ltd created what was a new industry which attained world-wide fame with the manufacture of stoves, heating apparatus, stable fittings and high-class ironwork.

John R Musgrave was the chairman and director, and represented his brothers' interests in the company. The expanding business now removed to new works at Mountpottinger.

About 1854, the other brothers, Henry and Edgar, started the wholesale tea and sugar business.

The Musgrave family were benefactors of the city of Belfast and its institutions: Sir James, when he retired, devoted a large part of his energy and abilities to developing the Port of Belfast, the possibilities of which he foresaw, the great scheme which he devised and which he lived to see completed.

His name is forever linked with the Musgrave Channel which he did so much to further from the time he was elected chairman of the Harbour Board in 1897 until a year before his death in 1904.

In recognition of these services the dignity of baronetcy was bestowed upon him.

He also proved himself a firm friend of Queen's College (now University), where he founded the chair of Pathology which bears his name.

Like his brother James, Henry gave many benefactions to the City.

When the estate at Carrick, County Donegal, was acquired a similar bold policy was adopted.

The Musgraves' old-fashioned courtesy and graciousness of manner, combined with a distinctive style of dress, gave the impression that evoked a link with the early Victorian period.

Their unbounded generosity to charitable, educational and other worthy institutions will secure for them an imperishable memory.

THE LODGE, Carrick, County Donegal, is a five-bay, two-storey, former country house or hunting lodge, built ca 1867 and extensively altered and extended ca 1910, having a central advanced single-bay projection to the main elevation.

The main central block is flanked to either side (east and west) by lower wings having advanced gable-fronted single-bay two-storey terminating blocks with crow-stepped parapets over.

A two-storey range of outbuildings is attached to the rear (north) of the terminating block to the west.

Carrick Lodge was extensively renovated about 1990, following destruction by fire in 1970.

It is now in use as a private home.

This substantial former country house or hunting lodge/retreat retains some of its early character and form despite modern alterations.

The symmetrical front elevations is notable for the good quality "Tudoresque-style" cut stone surrounds with mullions to the window openings, hood mouldings to the ground floor openings and particularly by the striking crow-stepped parapets over the advanced blocks to the centre and terminating either end.

The crow-stepped parapets are reminiscent of the Scottish Baronial architectural style, an architectural idiom that was popular during the Victorian period, and into the first decades of the 20th century, but relatively rare in County Donegal.

These crow-stepped parapets were added as part of extensive alterations and extension to the house, around 1910, when the recessed wing and advanced gable-fronted terminating block to the east, and the projecting central gable-fronted bay were added.

Prior to this, the house was a modest and plain two-storey building.

Carrick Lodge was destroyed in a fire about 1970 and remained derelict until extensive renovations two decades later.

It was originally built in 1867, when the Musgrave family purchased extensive lands around here in that year) and apparently replaced or incorporates an earlier house on the same site built sometime between 1836-47.

The Musgrave family had their main residence at Drumglass House, Belfast, which suggests that Carrick Lodge was originally built as a hunting lodge or retreat.

It was the home of James Musgrave (later a knight and a baronet) and John Musgrave in 1881, who were both Justices of the Peace; and of John Musgrave in 1894.

Although altered, this building is a striking feature in the dramatic landscape to the west of Carrick, and is an addition to the built heritage and social history of the local area.

It forms a pair of related structures along with the attendant gate lodge to the south.

The simple outbuilding and former walled gardens to the rear, and the gateways and boundary walls to site add to the setting and historical context.

First published in March, 2013.

The Mount Stewart Acquisition

SELECTIVE ACQUISITIONS IN NORTHERN IRELAND

PROPERTY: Mount Stewart Gardens, County Down

DATE: 1955

EXTENT: 77.38 acres

DONOR: Derek, Viscount Bury

*****

PROPERTY: Temple of the Winds, Mount Stewart Estate

DATE: 1963

EXTENT: 3.61 acres

DONOR: Mairi, Viscountess Bury (the Lady Mairi Bury)

*****

PROPERTY: Mount Stewart House

DATE: 1976

EXTENT: 13.03 acres

DONOR: The Lady Mairi Bury

*****

PROPERTY: Mount Stewart Land and Buildings

DATE: 1987-2009

EXTENT: 6.43 acres

DONOR: The Lady Mairi Bury

*****

PROPERTY: Mount Stewart Lands

DATE: 2015

EXTENT: 900 acres.

First published in January, 2015.