Rosslea Manor Fire

HENRY SKEATH HAS SENT ME AN ARTICLE FROM THE NORTHERN STANDARD, DATED THE 28TH MARCH, 1885, CONCERNING THE FATE OF ROSSLEA MANOR, COUNTY FERMANAGH

TERRIBLE  FIRE  AT  ROSSLEA  MANOR

On Thursday evening last a disastrous fire occurred at ROSSLEA MANOR, the seat of John Madden, Esq., the result being that the entire building was destroyed, notwithstanding the efforts of many who had assembled from the surrounding districts to assist in extinguishing the flames.

At three o’clock p.m. one of the chimneys from a servant’s bedroom was observed to be on fire, but after some delay it was put out, or supposed to have been put out.

It would appear, however, from the sequel that the flue was in some way connected with the woodwork of the roof, for about eight o’clock this part of the edifice was observed to be in flames.

Messengers were dispatched to Clones and Rosslea for assistance, and in a short time the police at these stations turned out with many others anxious to render effective help.

Fortunately there were a number of guests in the house at the time who had been invited to a dinner party that evening, and after it was seen that there was little hope of saving the building, they with others proceeded to empty the house before the flames reached the lower rooms.

In this way the valuable contents were saved. All the furniture, pictures, plate, &c., were got out, and of these the police took charge.

At ten o’clock the roof and floors of the several rooms had fallen in, and not a vestige of the contents remained with the exception of the billiards-room, and this was secured mainly through the exertions of Messrs. Clarke and Fitzgerald, who were early on the scene of the catastrophe.

In the meantime messengers were dispatched for the Monaghan fire-engine, but it does not appear that it has yet arrived there.

At about 9.30 one of Mr. Madden’s daughters who had been ill was removed to Rev Haire-Forster’s, and the other ladies to Rev Canon Finlay’s, where they remain.

We understand that the premises were not fully insured so that the loss will be very considerable indeed.

Much sympathy is felt for Mr Madden and family, but it is a source of congratulation that the report circulated during the early part of the night, namely, that the fire was the result of a malicious outrage, had no foundation whatever.

The night was very stormy, and it was with great difficulty that the stable and a large range of office-houses were saved.

Men were told off [sic] early in the evening to see after this part of the work, and it was directly owing to their energetic action during the progress of the fire that the flames did not extend to all the outside buildings.

After all was over Mr. Madden could not be induced to leave the premises, but slept a few hours in the harness-room, yesterday morning, before overseeing the disposal of valuables saved from the conflagration.

The occurrence will be particularly inconvenient and annoying just now, as we understand Mr. Madden expected one of his sons home in a few days on a visit.

First published in May, 2014.

Magan of Killyon

THE MAGANS OWNED 5,604 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY WESTMEATH

The family of MAGAN claims descent from the ancient Irish sept of MacCEAN or MacGEAN, latterly written MacGAN and MAGAN, a collateral branch of the sept of MacDermot Roe. Six successive generations of the MAGANS resided in the townland of Umma More or Emoe, about two and a half miles in distance from Ballymore, County Westmeath.

MORGAN MAGAN, of Clonearl, County Westmeath, brother of Richard Magan, of Emoe, had issue,

THOMAS, his heir;
MORGAN, successor to his brother;
Susannah.

The elder son,

THOMAS MAGAN, of Togherstown, County Westmeath, a commissioner in the years 1695, 1697 and 1698 for raising a supply in County Westmeath for WILLIAM III, married Sarah Morgan, and dsp 1710, when he was succeeded by his brother,

MORGAN MAGAN, of Togherstown, who wedded Elizabeth ________, and had issue,

Thomas, dsp;
Hubert, dsp;
William, dsp;
Edward, dsp;
Morgan, dsp;
ARTHUR, his heir;
Eliza; Sarah; Ann; Frances.

The sixth son,

ARTHUR MAGAN (1721-77), of Clonearl, Philipstown, King's County (Offaly), High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1759, MP for Newtown Limavady, 1765, espoused, in 1754, Anne, daughter of Hugh Henry, of Straffan, County Kildare, and had issue,

Edward, dsp 1779;
Hugh Henry;
ARTHUR, who carried on the line;
Anne; Harriet.

The youngest son,

ARTHUR MAGAN (1756-1808), of Clonearl and Togherstown, married Hannah Georgina, daughter and co-heir (with her sister, Elizabeth Anne, wife of Charles, 2nd Baron Castle Coote) of the Rev Dr Henry Tilson, of Eagle Hill, County Kildare, and had issue,

Edward, died young;
WILLIAM HENRY, his heir;
Arthur, Captain RN;
Thomas Tilson, Captain in the army;
GEORGE PERCY, ancestor of GEORGE, cr BARON MAGAN OF CASTLETOWN;
Henry (Rev), dsp;
Charlotte; Eliza; Harriett; Louisa; Emily; Henrietta.

Mr Magan was succeeded by his eldest surviving son,

WILLIAM HENRY MAGAN (1790-1840), of Clonearl, High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1827, who wedded, in 1817, Elizabeth Georgina, widow of Colonel Thomas Lowther Allen, and second daughter and co-heir of Dudley Loftus, of Killyon, head of the ancient and distinguished house of LOFTUS, and had issue,

WILLIAM HENRY, his heir;
Dudley, died unmarried;
AUGUSTA ELIZABETH, of whom hereafter.

The elder son,

WILLIAM HENRY MAGAN (1819-60), of Clonearl, Captain, 4th Light Dragoons, MP for Westmeath, 1847-57, espoused, in 1849, the Lady Georgiana Charlotte Keppel, youngest daughter of WILLIAM CHARLES, 4TH EARL OF ALBEMARLE; though dsp 1860, and was succeeded eventually by his sister,

MISS AUGUSTA ELIZABETH MAGAN (1825-1905), of Clonearl, King's County, and Killyon, County Meath, who died unmarried.

Her estates included 5,604 acres in County Westmeath, 4,418 acres in County Meath, 2,374 in County Kildare, 1,023 in the King's County, and 165 acres of land in County Dublin.

Miss Magan's paternal uncle,

GEORGE PERCY MAGAN (1799-1857), of County Carlow,  married, in 1824, Ellen, daughter of Valentine O'Connor, and had issue,

PERCY TILSON, his heir;
Thomas Tilson;
Henry;
Henry Augusta;
Edward William;
Hugh Tilson;
Albert Edward;
Valentine John;
Arthur;
Georgina; Mary Monica; Ellen; Charlotte Elizabeth;
Henrietta; Flora Emily; Harriet Honoria.

Mr Magan was succeeded by his eldest son,

PERCY TILSON MAGAN JP (1828-1903), of Correal, County Roscommon, Marlfield House, County Wexford, and Kilcleagh Park, County Meath, who wedded, in 1865, Anne Catherine, daughter of the Rev Edward Richards, and had issue,

Percy Tilson (1867-1947);
ARTHUR TILSON SHAEN, of whom we treat;
Emily Georgina; Muriel Rozel; Rachel Evelyn; Violet Augusta.

The younger son,

ARTHUR TILSON SHAEN MAGAN CMG (1880-1965), of Killyon Manor, Hill of Down, County Meath, Lieutenant-Colonel, Royal Army Service Corps, married, in 1906, Kathleen Jane, daughter of Assheton Biddulph, and had issue,

WILLIAM MORGAN TILSON, his heir;
Francis Shaen;
Annie Sheelagh; Violet Mary; Maureen.

Colonel Magan was succeeded by his eldest son,

BRIGADIER WILLIAM MORGAN TILSON MAGAN CBE (1908-2010), of Killyon Manor, and St Michael's House, Tonbridge, Kent, who wedded, in 1940, Maxine, daughter of  Sir Kenneth Grant Mitchell KCIE, and had issue,

Thomas Kenneth Shaen Biddulph (1941-3);
GEORGE MORGAN, of whom hereafter;
Hugh William;
James Henry.

The eldest surviving son,

GEORGE MORGAN MAGAN (1945-), married, in 1972, Wendy Anne, daughter of Major Chilton, and has issue,

Patrick G B;
Edward William Morgan.

Mr Magan, formerly of CASTLETOWN COX, County Kilkenny, was created a life peer, in 2011, as BARON MAGAN OF CASTLETOWN, of Kensington in the Royal Borough of Chelsea.

In 1876, Mrs Elizabeth Georgina Loftus Magan, of Killyon Manor (above), owned 4,418 acres in County Meath, 5,604 acres in County Westmeath, 2,374 acres in County Kildare, 1,023 acres in County Offaly, and 165 acres in County Dublin, totalling 13,584 acres.

Mrs Magan managed the estates until she died, in 1880, designating her only surviving child Elizabeth Augusta Magan as her heir.

When the Magan family's main residence, Clonearl, was destroyed by fire in 1846, Killyon Manor became their seat.

Killyon was sold about 1970 to Sir Rivers Verain Carew Bt, who lived there for a time until it was purchased by the Purcell family, who have restored the house and gardens.

First published in April, 2018.

Rose-Cleland of Rathgael

THE ROSE-CLELANDS OWNED 599 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY DOWN

The family of CLELAND (formerly spelt Kneland) was of great antiquity in Scotland. Their coat-of-arms, tradition states, was acquired by their being hereditary foresters to the ancient Earls of Douglas.

JAMES CLELAND, of that Ilk, in Lanarkshire, ancestor of the Clelands of that Ilk and of several other families of the same surname, joined his cousin Sir William Wallace in 1296 for the relief of his country against the English, along with a considerable number of noblemen and gentlemen.

He was present at, and assisted Sir William Wallace in most of his exploits, particularly in capturing Thomas of Longueville, commonly called The Red Rover.

After the death of Sir William Wallace he firmly supported the cause of ROBERT THE BRUCE, and for his loyalty and good services that king gave him several lands in the barony of Calder, West Lothian.

WILLIAM CLELAND, of that Ilk, fifth in descent from the above James Cleland, and in the reign of JAMES III, King of Scotland, about 1462, married Jean Somerville.

His son and successor,

ALEXANDER CLELAND, of that ilk, was killed in 1513 at the battle of Flodden, along with his cousin, William Cleland, of Faskine, fighting valiantly in defence of their Scottish King, JAMES IV.

To a charter of 1498, there was appended a seal of this Alexander, upon which was a hare, leaping, with a hunting horn about his neck.

The lineal descendant of this gentleman,

JOHN CLELAND, of Whithorn, Wigtownshire, was appointed factor to James, 5th Earl of Galloway, and in 1731, wedded Margaret Murdoch, only child of the Provost of Whithorn.

He died in 1747, having had issue,

William, died in infancy;
JAMES, of whom hereafter;
John;
Katharine; AGNES; Margaret.

The second daughter,

AGNES CLELAND (1740-75), espoused firstly, in 1766, Lieutenant Richard Rose, of the East India Company's European Regiment, by whom she had an only child, JAMES DOWSETT ROSE, who afterwards assumed the additional surname of CLELAND.

She married secondly, in 1774, William Nicholson, of Balloo House, though the marriage was without issue.

John Cleland's son and successor,

JAMES CLELAND, of Newtownards, County Down, wedded, in 1770, Sarah, only child of Captain Patrick Baird, though the marriage was without issue.

He died in 1777, when the his estate reverted to his nephew,

JAMES DOWSETT ROSE-CLELAND JP DL (1767-1852), of Rathgill, County Down, High Sheriff of County Down, 1805, who succeeded to his father's property in 1768, and to that of his paternal grandfather, Richard Rose, of Abingdon, Berkshire, in 1784.

In compliance of the testamentary injunction of his cousin, Patrick Cleland, of Ballymagee, he assumed the additional surname and arms of CLELAND (his mother's name).

He espoused firstly, in 1790, Sarah, only child of William Eaton Andrews, of London, and had issue,

William Nicholson, died in infancy;
Elizabeth Hawkins.

Mr Rose-Cleland married secondly, in 1832, Elizabeth, eldest daughter of William Nicholson Steele-Nicholson, of Balloo House, and had issue,

JAMES BLACKWOOD, heir to his father;
RICHARD, successor to his brother;
Edward Allen, b 1840;
Henry Somerville, b 1843;
Agnes Elizabeth; Isabel Hamilton;
Margaret Sabina, m Arthur Wellington Garner, of Garnerville.

Mr Rose-Cleland commanded the Newtownards Yeomen Infantry at the battle of Saintfield, 1798; and three months' later raised the Rathgael Yeomen Infantry, and received repeated thanks from the Government for his services.

He presided at the contested election for County Down between Robert, Viscount Castlereagh (later 2nd Marquess of Londonderry), and Colonel the Hon John Meade, which lasted 21 days.

Mr Rose-Cleland was succeeded by his eldest son,

JAMES BLACKWOOD ROSE-CLELAND (1835-56), of Rathgael House, who died at Constantinople, and was succeeded by his brother,

RICHARD ROSE-CLELAND (1836-92), of Rathgael House, who married, in 1861, Elizabeth Wilhelmina, daughter of Robert Kennedy, of Lisburn, County Antrim, and had issue,

James Dowsett, b 1862;
Robert Kennedy, b 1863;
Richard, died in infancy;
Charles Arthur, b 1876;
Elizabeth Helen Louisa; Mary Isabella Eveline; Edith Adelaide;
Maude Ethel; Florence May; Alice Gertrude; Catherine Mabel; Harriet Ella.

Rathgael was inherited by the youngest son and the seven youngest daughters.

Rathgael House

Rathgill, or Rathgael House, dating from the 18th century, was originally the nucleus of a farm comprising 88 acres on the northern part of Clandeboye estate.

A reader has kindly sent me a collection of photographs relating to RATHGAEL.

The house was demolished in the 1960s to make way for the Rathgael Training School.

A lake was created by the Cleland family in the late 1800s for fishing, and some of the planting surrounding it dates from that period.

A new housing development, known as Helen's Wood, has been created on land close to the location of Rathgael House.

First published in April, 2016.

O'Neill Burial Chamber

Burial Chamber at Shane's Castle ca 1900 (Image: T H Mason/NLI)

The burial chamber at SHANE'S CASTLE was built in 1722 by "French John" Shane O'Neill (1665-1739) in the corner of a private graveyard (closed in 1802; probably the location of Edenduffcarrick village church).

French John erected the vault as "a burial place to himself and family of Clanneboy."

Directly above the wooden door of the vault there bears the inscription:-

"This vault was built by Shane McBrien McPhelim McShane McBrian McPhelim O'Neill Esq. in the year 1722 for a burial place to himself and family of Clanaboy."

Mature conifers, yew, and ash trees adorn the graveyard.

The graveyard gates are said to have been made in 1684.

The coffins were removed to the O'Neill family vault at Drummaul parish church, Randalstown, County Antrim, in the second half of the 19th century.

Arms of the 1st Baron O’Neill (present creation)

THE O'Neill vault at Drummaul parish church was built ca 1838 (presumably by John, 3rd and last Viscount O'Neill) at a cost of £500 (about £60,000 in 2021) as a family burial place containing niches for eighteen coffins.

(Timothy Ferres, 2022)

A most beautiful statue in memory of the Hon Arthur O'Neill (1876-1914)  stands in the graveyard within several yards of the burial chamber at Shane’s Castle.

This statue depicts the blind  Erin (Ireland) playing her harp, mourning the loss of her sons of Ireland during battle.

Click to Enlarge (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

This memorial was placed in its present location during the 1980s.

First published in May, 2022.

Lower Crescent, Belfast

Lower Crescent in 2014:  looking towards Botanic Avenue and Cameron Street

Lower Crescent and Upper Crescent, both in the University quarter of south Belfast, have always inspired me, even since childhood.

Lower Crescent, which runs from 4, University Road to Botanic Avenue, is to the north of Upper Crescent.

Upper Crescent runs from 28, University Road to Crescent Gardens.

Number 5 for sale in 2014

The sale of much of Lord Donegall's Belfast estate in the early to mid-19th century freed large areas of land around the town for development.

The lands to the south, along the Malone Ridge, were particularly attractive to developers and fostered the construction of many fine late Georgian-style terraces from the mid 1830s onwards, a trend accelerated by the establishment of Queen's College (now Queen's University) in the area, in the later 1840s.

These grand, new terraces were occupied by the city's professional and business classes, vacating their former residences in the town centre, which, in turn, were gradually turned into shops and offices.

Upper Crescent was perhaps regarded as the grandest terrace development undertaken to the south of Belfast, an elegantly curving row of three-storey town-houses in a late Regency style, built in 1846 by the timber merchant Robert Corry.

Dr Paul Larmour has suggested that Sir Charles Lanyon may have been consulted about the design.

Corry himself undertook the building work and took up residence at 16 Upper Crescent.

For the first few years of its existence, this row was known as Corry's Crescent.

To the immediate north of Upper Crescent, where Crescent Church now stands, there was a large lawn which Corry used as a garden.

Shortly after this garden was laid out, however, Corry had it ploughed up and used for the cultivation of vegetables for relief of local workers suffering as a result of the famine.

To the north of this garden ran an old water course; to the east, some smaller gardens (belonging to other occupants of Upper Crescent); and further to the east and to the north-east ran Albion Lane.

In 1852, Robert Corry built another terrace to the north of his garden and just south of the old water course.

This new development, Lower Crescent, was much in the same vein as that to the south, and was occupied by the same mix of professionals and businessmen; though, by as early as 1860, the ground floors of some of the properties were used as offices.

In the late 1860s, a railway line was laid to the immediate north of Lower Crescent (along the line of the old water course).

In 1873, the large sandstone building, (originally Ladies Collegiate, later Victoria College), was added to the west end of the terrace, with two houses added to the east end by the end of the decade, the most easterly of which, Rivoli House, originally contained a dance academy run by a Frederick Brouneau.

The new railway line cut across Albion Lane and presaged the laying out of a new, broader thoroughfare, to be named Botanic Avenue.

Upper Crescent also witnessed further building in the 1860s and 70s, with two large William Hastings-designed properties erected to the west end in 1869, one of which, Crescent House (latterly a bank) also fronted on to University Road.

In 1878-79, two further houses were added to this end, on the ground between those of 1869.

In 1885-7, the large Presbyterian church (the present Crescent Church) was erected to plans by the Glasgow architect, John Bennie Wilson, on the west side of Robert Corry's former garden, with a two-storey terrace, the present Crescent Gardens, built on the site of smaller garden plots to the east end, in 1898.

During the first half of the 20th century, most of the properties of Upper and Lower Crescent, as well as Crescent Gardens, remained private dwellings.

However, by 1960 many were given over to business use; others divided into flats, with the former Rivoli House, (later called Dreenagh House), becoming a hotel.

This trend continued, and by the beginning of the 21st century none were occupied as private dwellings.

In the mid 1990s, three of the 1860-70 houses at the west end of Upper Crescent were demolished and a modern office block built in their place; whilst in 2000 the railway cutting to the south of Lower Crescent was built over, in preparation for a new development.

1 LOWER CRESCENT:

occupied by Frederick Gee, commission merchant. Gee appears to have remained there until at least 1882, though a Charles McDowell is listed by 1877. By 1899, it was in the hands of neighbouring Victoria College. When the Victoria College building changed hands to become the Crescent Arts Centre in 1978, this property remained associated with it, becoming The Octagon Gallery. It is largely used as a store by the Arts Centre.

2 LOWER CRESCENT:

One of the eleven houses which made up the original 1852 section of Lower Crescent. In 1858, it was occupied by John Savage, flax merchant. John Corry (a relative of the abovementioned Robert Corry) is listed as resident in 1862; Mrs Cuppage in 1877; and Mrs McDowell in the 1890-1900. The property came into possession of Victoria College at some time between 1910-20 and remained as such until that institution left Lower Crescent in the 1970s; however, for much of this period, it appears to have been leased to various businesses and private tenants. In the 1980s, it became a health centre (which appears to have been integrated with its neighbour, number 3); then a stationery shop; and later, offices.

3 LOWER CRESCENT:

In 1858, was listed as vacant, but was occupied by Henry Smith in 1860; the Rev John Moore in 1861; and William Moffat, 1877. In the 1890s and early 1900s, it was occupied by Mrs Margaret Byers, ounder of Victoria College. It was still in possession of Victoria College for some years after Mrs Byers' decease in 1912, but was either sold or leased out by the school by 1930, for by this date it had become a private dwelling once again. The property remained a dwelling house until the 1970s.

4 LOWER CRESCENT:

Thomas Hanlon, of Messrs George McTear & Company, Steam Packet Agents, Donegall Quay; Miss Jane Vance, by 1860. Miss Vance was followed a few years later by Dr Peter Redfern, who remained there until ca 1915. The property appears to remained a private dwelling until the 1950s, when it was divided into flats. It remained as such until the early 1980s, when the flats were converted to offices. The return is recorded as two storey in the valuation of 1860. The decoration to the second floor landing (which matches that to the first floor) suggests that it may have been raised a storey not long after this date.

5-6 LOWER CRESCENT:

Number 5 was occupied by Mrs Andrews; Henry Dickson resided at number 6. By 1860, number 5 was occupied by Aylward Connor, with its ground floor used as offices. Connor appears to have remained there until the late 1870s, when the property became home to Colonel Audain. Number 6 passed to Mrs Charnock in 1870, with both she and the Audain family occupying both houses until 1910 at least. Both buildings appear to have remained private dwellings until the 1970s, but by 1980 number 6 was an office. In the late 1980s, number 5 was coverted to a bar and night club, The Fly. In the late 1990s, this bar was greatly expanded, when its owners acquired number 6 and added a large extension to the rear of the newly-created single property.

7 LOWER CRESCENT:

Robert Cassidy, a solicitor, who, (by 1860 at least) used the ground floor as an office. In 1870,  James Campbell is listed as resident; Henry F Thomas in 1877; Samuel Alexander in 1882; and Mrs Orr in 1910. The property appears to have been divided into flats in the 1960s, but had become an office (once again) by 1980.

8 LOWER CRESCENT:

Tobias Porter, Belfast Flour Mills Manager, who appears to have remained there until at least 1882. In 1899, Mrs Lyons is recorded as resident; with Miss Lyons in occupation from about 1910-40s. From the mid 1950s until the late 1970s, this property and number 9 served as the canteen for Victoria College. No doubt much of the internal changes to both buildings date from this period. The building has housed various offices from the late 1970s onwards.

9 LOWER CRESCENT:

Samuel Delacherois, gentleman. In 1860, it was occupied by a John K McCausland, who appears to have remained there until at least 1882. The next occupant was Miss Vance, who was followed by Mrs Jackson about 1915. In the 1940s, the property came into the possession of Victoria College; and in the following decade became, (along with neighbouring number 8), the college's canteen. After the departure of Victoria College from Lower Crescent in the late 1970s, the property was converted to offices.

10 LOWER CRESCENT:

And its neighbour to the east (11) were used as offices for the Ordnance Survey, but by 1860, number 10 was a private dwelling once again, occupied by Robert W Corry. Corry was followed in 1862 by John Arnold, who remained there until the mid 1880s at least. In 1899, Mrs McKnight is listed as resident; Miss Warner in 1910; Mr T Kernaghan, linen merchant, in 1920. By 1940, the property appears to have been divided into two flats. In 1960, three flats are recorded, with four in 1970. These fluctuating divisions of the property appear to have changed again in the later 1970s, when the first floor became amalgamated with the first floors of numbers 8 and 9 to form a large office suite.

11 LOWER CRESCENT:

Was, by 1860, occupied by Charles Gaussen, who was followed in 1861 by Henry Cuppage, who remained there until at least 1882. In 1899, William Pedlow, District Inspector, National Schools, Belfast South, is listed as resident; then David Wright, bottle merchant and representative of the Chilean Nitrate Committee; T  Kernaghan in 1920; and Mr S E Fitchie, wholesale stationer, in 1930. By 1940, the property became a nursing home; then a guest house in 1951; but reverted to a private residence from the late 1950s to the 1970s. By 1980, the property was converted to offices.

12 LOWER CRESCENT:

Built in 1877-78 to designs by architect William Hastings, who had also worked on the larger property to the east (13) two years earlier. The building was originally occupied by William J Morrison, with William Campbell in residence in 1899. Campbell remained there until some time between 1910-20. Miss Gardener occupyed the house in 1921. In 1930, a journalist named Alex Riddle and Professor Ivor Arnold are recorded as residents; with three occupants listed in 1940, two in 1951 and three in the 1960s and 1970s. Clearly the property must have been split into flats ca 1930. In the late 1980s, the building was converted to a restaurant, linked with the neighbouring hotel (13), with hotel rooms to the upper floors. In the late 1990s, the restaurant was converted to a public bar. 

Sources: Henderson's Belfast Directory; Belfast & Province of Ulster Directory; ST Carleton, The Growth of South Belfast (QUB MA thesis, 1967); John Caughey, Seize Then The Hour: A history of James P Corry & Compnay (Belfast, 1974), pp.28-29; David Evans, Historic buildings of Queen's University (revised edition, 1980); Alison Jordan: Margaret Byers, Pioneer of Women's Education (QUB Institute of Irish Studies).

First published in March, 2014.

Upper Crescent, Belfast

Upper Crescent in 2014

Lower Crescent and Upper Crescent, both in the University Quarter of south Belfast, have inspired me since childhood.

Lower Crescent, which runs from 4 University Road to Botanic Avenue, is to the north of the Upper Crescent; whereas Upper Crescent runs from 28 University Road to Crescent Gardens.

Most of the 2nd Marquess of Donegall's Belfast estate was sold in the early to mid-19th century, thereby freeing large areas of land around the town for development.

The lands to the south, along the Malone Ridge, were particularly attractive to developers, and fostered the construction of many fine late Georgian-style terraces from the mid 1830s onwards, a trend accelerated by the establishment of the prestigious Queen's College (Queen's University) in the area, in the later 1840s.

13-15 Upper Crescent in 2014

These new, grand terraces were occupied by the city's professional and business classes, who vacated their older residences in the centre of the town (like College Square North); which, in turn, eventually became shops and offices.

Upper Crescent was perhaps the grandest terrace development undertaken in south Belfast.

This was an elegantly curving row of three-storey dwellings in a late Regency style, built in 1846 by the timber merchant Robert Corry.

It has been suggested that the celebrated Belfast architect Sir Charles Lanyon may have been involved in the design of the crescents.

Corry himself undertook the building work and took up residence at 16 Upper Crescent.

For the first few years of its existence it was known as Corry's Crescent.

To the immediate north of Upper Crescent, where Crescent Church now stands, there was a large, grassed area which formed part of Mr Corry's gardens.

Shortly after this plot was laid out, however, Corry had it ploughed up and used for the cultivation of vegetables (for the relief of local workers suffering as a result of the famine).

To the north of this garden ran an old water course; to the east, some smaller gardens (belonging to other residents of Upper Crescent); and further to the east and to the north-east, Albion Lane.

In 1852, Robert Corry built another terrace to the north of his garden and just south of the old water course.

This new development, called Lower Crescent, was much in the same vein as that to the south and was occupied by the same mix of professional and business men; though, by as early as 1860, the ground floors of some of the properties were utilized as offices.

In the late 1860s, a railway line was laid to the immediate north of Lower Crescent (along the line of the old water course).

In 1873, the large sandstone building, (originally Ladies Collegiate, later Victoria College), was added to the west end of the terrace, with two houses added to the east end by the end of the decade, the most easterly of which, Rivoli House, originally contained a dance academy run by a Frederick Brouneau.

The railway line cut across Albion Lane and presaged the laying out of a new, broader thoroughfare, to be named Botanic Avenue.

Upper Crescent was further extended in the 1860s and 70s, with two large William Hastings-designed properties erected to the west end in 1869, one of which, Crescent House (latterly a bank) also fronted on to University Road.

In 1878-79, two further houses were added at this end.

In 1885-7, a large Presbyterian church (the present Crescent Church) was erected to plans by the Glasgow architect, John Bennie Wilson, on the west side of Robert Corry's former garden, with a two-storey terrace, the present Crescent Gardens, built on the site of smaller garden plots to the east end in 1898.

During the first half of the 20th century, most of the properties of Upper and Lower Crescent, as well as Crescent Gardens, remained private residences.

By 1960, however, many had become businesses; while others were divided into flats, and Rivoli House (later Dreenagh House) became a hotel.

This trend continued and by the beginning of the 21st century none of the properties were occupied as private dwellings.

In the mid 1990s, three of the 1860-70 houses at the west end of Upper Crescent were demolished and a modern office block was built in their place.

In 2000, the railway cutting to the south of Lower Crescent was built over in preparation for a new development.

1 UPPER CRESCENT:

Originally named Crescent House, was built in 1869 to designs by William Hastings. Its original resident was Dr Wilberforce Arnold, whose family remained there until the early 1900s. The next occupant was Dr John Campbell, who was followed by a Dr William Campbell (presumably his son). Both Campbells (and possibly Dr Arnold before them) appear have used the University Road section of the property as a surgery. In the 1970s, the building was acquired by Queen's University and served as the University's Institute of Professional Legal Studies. In 2001-02 the property was converted to a branch of the Bank of Ireland (and practically rebuilt in the process), with half of the first floor and all of the second floor converted to offices, linked to the large modern office block to the east.

7 UPPER CRESCENT:

Built in 1849, occupied by Robert Workman, who remained there until the mid-1850s, when he was followed by John Coates, secretary of the County Antrim Grand Jury. By 1860, the building was in the hands of a John P Corry, a relative of the builder of the Crescent, Robert Corry. At this stage (according to valuation records), the ground floor was used as offices. James P Corry remained in residence until 1877, when he was succeeded by MrWilliam Dobbin. John Morrow, of the Ayr Steamship Company, is listed as the householder in 1899 and 1910; with P T Crymble in 1920. In the later 1920s, the property was acquired by a Miss Wallace, who remained there until the 1970s; and for part of this time used the premises as a nursing home. Thereafter the property was converted to offices. The current occupant acquired the building in 1983.

8 UPPER CRESCENT:

Occupied, in 1849, by a merchant named Edward Tucker, who was followed by the Rev William Patterson (Professor of Mathematics, Queen's College) in the early 1850s; Peter Keegan, wine merchant, in the later 1850s; James Glass from ca 1860-77; and then Mrs Shillington. In the 1899 directory, Robert Workman, Junior, is listed as the occupant; William Harper in 1910; Joseph Walsh, 1915-40s; then H M Hamilton; and Herbert Kearney. In the 1970s the property was converted to offices.

9 UPPER CRESCENT:

Mrs Grueber; followed in the mid 1850s by Professor Charles McDowell, who remained there until the early 1880s. In the 1899 and 1910 directories, a W H Ward (of the Ulster Damask & Linen Company) is listed as the occupant; with a Robert Robinson in 1920-30. By 1951, the property had become converted to offices, occupied firstly by the Forestry Division of the NI Department of Agriculture, and then by a firm of quantity surveyors.

10 UPPER CRESCENT:

Mrs Murdock in 1849; followed in the 1850s by James Green and then James P Corry (a relative of the above mentioned Robert). Corry was succeeded by Jane Vance, who remained there until the later 1870s. The next resident was Alexander Taylor; with a solicitor, J S Mahon, listed in the 1899 and 1910 directories. About 1918, the property was acquired by a family named Matthews, who remained there until the 1950s, when the building was converted into offices (financiers, then a travel agent).

11 UPPER CRESCENT:

James Greene, (1st clerk, Custom House); followed by Mrs Herdman; and, by 1860, William McNeill; and, by the late 1870s, James Festu. By 1899, the building was home to William Yates; then, pre-1920, the Rev William Beatty; and then T Bell, who remained there from the mid 1920s to the 1960s. By 1970 the property had been converted to an office.

12 UPPER CRESCENT:

Between 1849-1910/20, the house was occupied by Robert Boag, of Albion Clothing Company, possibly the same person, though likely a father and son. By 1920, it had become The Crescent Private Nursing Home, but had reverted to an conventional dwelling again by 1930, with Miss Mabel Simms in residence. Miss Simms remained there until at least 1960, but by 1970 the building had been converted to an office.

13 UPPER CRESCENT:

William Brown, of Day, Bottomley & Company, who, in the 1850s, leased the house to Mrs Esther Orr, who remained there until about 1880. The next occupant was James Hyndman; followed in the early 1900s by Mrs Cron. Mr E Matthews and his family remained there from the 1920s until the 1960s. By 1970, the house was being used by a group of elocution teachers, but appears to have reverted to a private dwelling in the late 1970s. The property appears to have become offices from the mid 1980s.

14 UPPER CRESCENT:

Mrs Dickey; Henry Smith, linen manufacturer, by 1852; and Jane Millford by 1860. The Rev W S Darley became resident in the later 1870s; with Mrs Thompson listed in the 1899 directory; William Galloway (damask designer) in 1920; and the Rev R H White in 1930. In the 1950s, this building and its two neighbours to the east (nos.15 & 16) served as the Ulster Nature Cure Clinic. In the 1960s all three were acquired by Queen's University and converted to student residences. It was probably at this point that the major internal changes to the buildings were carried out; however, it's not improbable that the earlier presence of the Ulster Nature Cure Clinic probably entailed some alterations, perhaps the creation of doorways between the formerly separate properties.

15 UPPER CRESCENT:

Robert Cassidy, solicitor, who remained here until about 1853, when he moved to the newly-built Lower Crescent; followed by the Rev Robert Wilson, whose family in turn were followed by Mr John Downing. By 1899, Mrs Manley was in residence; and by 1920 a "druggist" named John Clarke; Mrs Rankin, by 1930. A decade later the property served as a nursing home. In the 1950s, this building and its two neighbours to each side (nos.14 and 16) were the Ulster Nature Cure Clinic.

Sources: Henderson's Belfast Directory; Belfast & Province of Ulster Directory; ST Carleton, The Growth of South Belfast (QUB MA thesis, 1967); John Caughey, Seize Then The Hour: A history of James P Corry & Compnay (Belfast, 1974), pp.28-29; David Evans, Historic buildings of Queen's University (revised edition, 1980); Alison Jordan: Margaret Byers, Pioneer of Women's Education (QUB Institute of Irish Studies).

First published in March, 2014.

Dundarave House

THE MACNAGHTEN BARONETS OWNED 7,134 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ANTRIM

The sept of Macnaghten, in Argyllshire, is acknowledged by the highlanders, according to Alexander Nisbet, to be one of the oldest in the west of Scotland, and its members were for centuries involved in the political transactions of that kingdom.

SHANE DHU, third son of JOHN MACNAUGHTANE, of that Ilk, and grandson of SIR ALEXANDER MACNAUGHTANE, who fell at Flodden, went over to Ulster as secretary to his kinsman, the 1st Earl of Antrim, and settled there.

His son and heir,

DANIEL MACNAUGHTEN, espoused Catherine, niece of the celebrated Lord Primate and Archbishop of Armagh, the Most Rev George Dowdall, and had, with two daughters, who married into the families of Willoughby and MacManus, of County Antrim, a son and successor,

JOHN MACNAUGHTEN, of BENVARDEN, County Antrim, who wedded Helen, sister of the Rt Hon Edmund Francis Stafford MP, and had issue,

Bartholomew, of Benvarden; father of John "half-hanged" Macnaghten;

EDMUND, of whom we treat.

The younger son,

EDMUND MACNAGHTEN (1679-1781), was conveyed by his mother, then a widow, when he was about ten years old, to the city of Londonderry.

They were there at Christmas, 1688, and were protected by the lady's brother, the Rt Hon Edmond Francis Stafford, then one of the gallant defenders of the place during the memorable siege.

This Edmund died at BEARDIVILLE, County Antrim.

Mr Macnaghten, High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1747, married firstly, Leonora, daughter of the Most Rev Dr John Vesey, Lord Archbishop of Tuam, by whom he had no issue; and secondly, in 1761, Hannah, daughter of John Johnstone, of Belfast, by whom he had two sons,

EDMOND ALEXANDER;
FRANCIS.

Mr Macnaghten died at the very advanced age of 102, and was succeeded by his son,

EDMUND ALEXANDER MACNAGHTEN (1762-1832), of Beardiville, and Duke Street, St James's, London, High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1793, MP for County Antrim, 1801-12, Orford, 1812-26, County Antrim, 1826-30, and a Lord of the Treasury.

The Macnaghtens of Scotland elected this gentleman and his heirs to the chieftainship of their clan, which, at his decease, in 1832, descended with the family estates to his brother,

SIR FRANCIS WORKMAN-MACNAGHTEN (1762-1843), a High Court Judge in India, High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1807, who was created a baronet in 1836, designated of Bushmills House, County Antrim.

Sir Francis (the Hon Mr Justice Macnaghten) had made a fortune in India c1800. He purchased ‘for a small price’ his brother-in-law's property; and at some stage proceeded to build a new, castellated house on the site (Bushmills House); though, after he returned from India in 1825, he seems to have lived mainly at Roe Park and Beardiville.

He espoused, in 1787, Letitia, eldest daughter of Sir William Dunkin, Judge of the Supreme Court of Judicature at Calcutta, and had issue,

EDMUND CHARLES, his successor;
William Hay, cr a baronet, 1840; Bengal civil service;
Francis, b 1798, at Calcutta; Bengal civil service;
Elliot, b 1807; Supreme Court, Calcutta;
John Duncan, b 1810; cavalry officer, East India Company;
Steuart, b 1815;
Anne; Eliza Serena; Marianne; Letitia; Matilda; Jane Russell;
Maria; Caroline; Alicia; Ellen, Hannah.

Sir Francis was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR EDMUND CHARLES WORKMAN-MACNAGHTEN, 2nd Baronet (1790-1876), High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1837, who succeeded to the property.

Like his father, he, too, made a fortune in India; and, having retired at the very young age of 24, decided to replace Bushmills House with a much grander mansion. He commissioned Charles Lanyon to construct the present, very fine Italianate mansion, DUNDARAVE, in 1846, based on Barry’s Reform Club.

The Rt Hon Sir Francis Edmund Workman-Macnaghten, 3rd Baronet (1828-1913), High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1877, was a Privy Counsellor.

The Right Honourable Sir Edward Macnaghten, 4th Baronet (1830–1913), GCB GCMG:

Became a Law Lord as the Baron Macnaghten in 1887. He was admitted to Lincoln's Inn in 1857 entitled to practice as a barrister; appointed QC in 1880; was MP for County Antrim, 1880-85; MP for North Antrim, 1885-87; a Privy Counsellor, 1887. He was a Lord of Appeal in Ordinary, 1887.

Sir Edward was elevated to the peerage, in 1887, in the dignity of BARON MACNAGHTEN, of Runkerry, County Antrim.

He was a Bencher of Lincoln's Inn in 1907.

Sir Edward Charles Macnaghten was 5th Baronet (1859–1914).

Sir Edward Harry Macnaghten, 6th Baronet (1896–1916), died in 1916 aged 20, reported missing in action, believed killed. He was a 2nd Lieutenant in the Royal Highlanders (The Black Watch), attached to the 12th Battalion, Royal Irish Rifles; fought in the 1st World War.

Sir Arthur Douglas Macnaghten, 7th Baronet (1897–1916), died in 1916 aged 19, killed in action. He was a 2nd Lieutenant in the 8th Battalion, Rifle Brigade.

Sir Francis Alexander Macnaghten became the 8th Baronet (1863–1951); succeeded by Sir Frederic Fergus Macnaghten, 9th Baronet (1867–1955) and Sir Antony Macnaghten, 10th Baronet (1899–1972).

Sir Patrick Alexander Macnaghten DL, 11th Baronet (1927-2007) was educated at Eton and Trinity College, Cambridge; worked as an engineer and manager with Cadbury's Chocolate.

He succeeded to the baronetcy and as chief of the Name and Arms of the Clan Macnaghten in 1972.

On his retirement he lived at Dundrave until 2005.

He was a Deputy Lieutenant and Vice-President of the Northern Ireland Ploughing Association; and a member of the Fisheries Conservancy Board.

Sir Malcolm Macnaghten is the present 12th Baronet (b 1956).

DUNDARAVE HOUSE, near Bushmills, County Antrim, is described by the Sir Charles Brett as ‘by far the grandest 19th century house in north Antrim’.

Not surprisingly, the parkland created as a setting for this house is of some importance in its own right.

In fact, the park pre-dates the present house, for its bones were laid down for an 18th century house on the site known as Bushmills House.

Described as "a very fine Italianate palazzo", both inside and out, Dundarave has all the dignity and splendour of a London club.

It consists of two storeys in plan, with a lower service wing at one side. 

The three fronts are all different and ornamented in a pinkish sandstone.

Some fenestration is surrounded by Corinthian aedicules and surmounted by latticed balustrades.

The roof sits on a deep, bracket cornice.

The entrance porch is an Italianate loggia with Corinthian pilasters and columns; whilst the adjoining front boasts a a central feature of a single-storey, curved bow, also with columns.

The porch leads to a narrow entrance hall with barrel ceiling and Classical reliefs on the walls.

However, the central hall is magnificent and vast, very tall, surrounded by a broad gallery at first floor level, with Corinthian columns carrying a lantern storey.

The grandest reception room is the ballroom, with its elaborate plasterwork ceiling.

The Dundarave estate is centred on the house and its surrounding designed landscape. Extending to about 550 acres, there are six estate dwellings; three entrances; five principal rooms located on the ground floor, mostly off the Great Hall, which was designed from the hall of the Reform Club in London, and rises to the full height of the building with a galleried landing at first floor level and lit by a finely plastered cupola.

At ground floor level the Great Hall features carved timber pillars with a painted marble design which are flanked by green painted marble arches. There is a central open fireplace with decorative mantelpiece sitting on Corinthian pillars. This is overlooked by the first floor picture gallery with carved timber bannisters which support twenty Doric columns, which in turn support the elaborate cupola.

The cupola features twelve semi-circular windows and ornate ceiling with eight recessed square panels arranged around an octagon panel, all with decorative plaster work. There are nineteen bedrooms.

In the 1780s this property belonged to Sir William Dunkin of Clogher, sometime judge in Calcutta, whose daughter in 1787 married Francis Workman Macnaghten (1762-1843), a younger son of Edmund of Beardiville.

Francis, who was knighted in 1836, had made a fortune in India and was the acknowledged chief of the ancient clan of Macnaghten.

About 1800, he purchased ‘for a small price’ the property from his brother-in-law; and at some stage proceeded to build a new, castellated house on the site (Bushmills House); though, after he returned from India in 1825, he seems to have lived mainly at Roe Park and Beardiville.

This house and its surrounding parkland were protected on the north and west sides by shelter belts of trees, while a lozenge-shaped walled garden lay to the south east of the house.

In 1843, his son Sir Edward Charles Workman Macnaghten, 2nd Baronet, MP (1790-1876) succeeded to the property.

Like his father he, too, made a fortune in India; and, having retired at the very young age of 24, decided to replace Bushmills House with a much grander mansion.

He commissioned Charles Lanyon (later Sir Charles) to build the present, very fine Italianate mansion-house, built in 1846, based on Barry’s Reform Club.

The site is on exposed high ground, with good views out over lawns and a sweeping drive.

The old shelter belts were extended for the new house; and a second walled garden was added in the mid-19th century to the north of the house; and remains of glasshouses can be seen.

Neither walled garden is cultivated.

There were formal gardens at the south east of the house, which are now grassed and merge into Terrace Wood.

The woodland remains extensive and walks are maintained.

The main entrance gate is in a mini-palazzo style of ca 1848, with cruciform plan of a type favoured elsewhere by Lanyon.

The rear entrance lodge is much simpler in style, though also roughly ca 1850.

There were two plain gate lodges related to the demolished Bushmills House.

DUNDARAVE ESTATE was sold in 2014 by Sir Malcolm, 12th Baronet, to Dr Peter FitzGerald CBE DL.

RUNKERRY HOUSE, at the coast near Bushmills, was once part of the Macnaghten estates. 

It was built in the early 1860s by Sir Edward Macnaghten, 4th Baronet, who became Lord of Appeal for the United Kingdom in 1887 with a life peerage as BARON MACNAGHTEN, of Runkerry, County Antrim.

In 1951, Runkerry House was donated by the Macnaghtens to the Northern Ireland Government for public use.

It was used for many years as a retirement home; later as a residential activity centre; and finally a rehabilitation unit.

It was eventually closed down and, in 1996, placed on the open market and sold at Public Auction to Seaport Investments for conversion to apartments.

First published in March, 2010.