Archdale of Castle Archdale

THE ARCHDALES WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY FERMANAGH, WITH 27,410 ACRES OF LAND

The earliest reference to the Archdale family relates to Sir Edward Archdale of Norsom, Norfolk, and Macclesfield, Cheshire, who lived during the reigns of HENRY IV and HENRY V, and fought at the battle of Agincourt in 1415.

The first of the family to settle in Ulster, during the reign of ELIZABETH I, was 

JOHN ARCHDALE (1578-1621), of Darsham, Suffolk, who married Katherine, eldest daughter of Sir William Temple, provost of Trinity College, Dublin.

In 1612, this John was granted 1,000 acres of land in County Fermanagh as part of the plantation of Ulster.

This gentleman, by the inscription over the gateway in the ruinous castle, appears to have erected the old mansion-house of Archdale.

By his wife he had, among other issue, two sons,

EDWARD, his heir;
John (Rev), Vicar of Lusk, County Dublin.

Mr Archdale was succeeded by his eldest son,

EDWARD ARCHDALE, who espoused Angel, daughter of Sir Paul Gore Bt (ancestor of the Earls of Ross etc) and had issue.

During his time, the castle which his father had erected was taken and burned by the rebels under Sir Phelim O'Neill, in 1641, and only two children of a numerous family survived.

One, a daughter, who was absent and married; the other, an infant son, WILLIAM, preserved by the fidelity of his nurse, an Irish Roman Catholic, which

WILLIAM ARCHDALE JP, of old Castle Archdale, after succeeding to the estates, married, in 1677, Elizabeth, daughter of Henry Mervyn, of Omagh Castle and Trillick, both in County Tyrone, and had two sons and a daughter, namely,

MERVYN, his heir;
EDWARD, heir to his brother;
ANGEL, heiress to her brother.

He was succeeded by his elder son,

MERVYN ARCHDALE, of Castle Archdale, County Fermanagh, who died unmarried in 1726, and was succeeded by his brother,

EDWARD ARCHDALE (1694-1728), of Castle Archdale, a captain in Sir Gustavus Hume's Regiment of Dragoons, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1722, who married firstly, in 1728, Frances, daughter of Sir John Caldwell Bt; and secondly, Elizabeth, eldest daughter of John Cole, of Florence Court.

Dying without issue, however, before 1730, the estates devolved upon his only sister,

ANGEL ARCHDALE (c1688-1745), of Castle Archdale, who thus became heiress and representative of the family, when the spelling of her surname changed to ARCHDALL.

She espoused NICHOLAS MONTGOMERY, of Derrygonnelly, County Fermanagh, MP for County Fermanagh, 1761-1802, who assumed the surname and arms of ARCHDALL, and left, at her decease, an only son,

COLONEL MERVYN ARCHDALL JP MP (1725-1813), of Castle Archdale, and of Trillick, County Tyrone, MP for County Fermanagh, 1761-1802, who married, in 1762, Mary, daughter of William, 1st Viscount Carlow, and sister of John, 1st Earl of Portarlington, and had issue,

MERVYN, his heir;
WILLIAM, succeeded his brother;
EDWARD, succeeded his brother;
Henry;
Mary; Angel; Martha Caroline; Anna; Catherine; Elizabeth; Sidney; Wilhelmina Henrietta.

Colonel Archdale was succeeded by his eldest son,

GENERAL MERVYN ARCHDALL (1763-1839), of Castle Archdale, and of Trillick, County Tyrone, who wedded, in 1805, Jane, daughter of Gustavus Rochfort MP, of Rochfort, County Westmeath.

General Archdall was returned for the tenth time for Fermanagh at the general election of 1832.

He resigned on account of ill-health in 1834; and died of a stroke in 1839, when he was remembered as ‘a gallant soldier, a good landlord, a kind friend and a staunch Conservative’.

By his will, dated 28 Sept. 1829, he made provision for his relations, including his ‘reputed’ children Henry and Jane Grey, but left his residual estate to his brother,

WILLIAM ARCHDALL (1768-1857), of Castle Archdale and Trillick, Lieutenant-Colonel, 4th King's Own Regiment, wedded Mary, daughter of James Clarke, in an issueless marriage, and was succeeded by his brother,

EDWARD ARCHDALL JP DL (1775-1864), of Riversdale, County Fermanagh, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1813, who espoused, in 1809, Matilda, daughter of William Humphrys, and had issue,

MERVYN EDWARD, his heir;
WILLIAM HUMPHRYS, succeeded his brother;
Edward;
HENRY MONTGOMERY (Rev), succeeded his brother;
Nicholas Montgomery, of Riversdale and Crocknacrieve; father of 1st Baronet;
Ensign John;
Hugh Montgomery;
Audley Mervyn;
James Mervyn;
Richmal Magnall;
Mary; Letitia; Matilda.

Mr Archdale was succeeded by his eldest son,

MERVYN EDWARD ARCHDALE JP DL (1812-95), of Castle Archdale and Trillick, MP for Fermanagh, 1834-74, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1879, who married, Emma Inez, daughter of Jacob Goulding, and had issue,

Mervyn Henry, m Mary de Bathe and had issue;
Hugh James (brigadier-general), 1854-1921;
Georgina Emma Matilda; Blanche Mary Mervyn; Evelyn Jane.

The spelling of the surname of this branch reverted to ARCHDALE.

Mr Archdale's younger brother,

WILLIAM HUMPHRYS ARCHDALE JP (1813-99), of Castle Archdale, Riversdale, and Trillick, MP for Fermanagh, 1874-85, wedded firstly, in 1845, Emily Mary Rebecca, daughter of the Rev and Hon John Charles Maude, in a childless marriage; and secondly, in 1894, Matilda Mary, daughter of William Alley, though the marriage was without issue.

His younger brother,

THE REV HENRY MONTGOMERY ARCHDALE (1818-98), Rector of Trory, 1847-76, wedded, in 1848, Sarah Elizabeth, daughter of James Blackwood-Price, and had issue,

EDWARD, his heir;
Henry Dawson, died young;
James Blackwood;
Audley Mervyn;
Montgomery;
GEORGE, of Dromard, Kesh; father of MERVYN HENRY DAWSON;
Elizabeth; Richmal Magnall; Sarah Blackwood; Matilda Humphrys.

The Rev Henry Archdale was succeeded by his eldest son,

THE RT HON EDWARD ARCHDALE JP DL (1850-1916), of Castle Archdale and Trillick, Privy Counsellor, Lord-Lieutenant of County Tyrone, 1913, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1902, who espoused, in 1908, Elizabeth, daughter of Nicholas Harwood, though the marriage was without issue.

He was succeeded by his brother,

JAMES BLACKWOOD ARCHDALE JP DL (1853-1936), of Castle Archdale and Trillick, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1921, County Fermanagh, 1923, who married, in 1886, Elizabeth, daughter of George May, and had issue, a son,

HENRY BLACKWOOD ARCHDALE (1887-1939), of Castle Archdale and Trillick, who wedded, in 1921, Dorothy Audley, daughter of William Audley Mervyn, though the marriage was without issue.

He was succeeded by his cousin,

MERVYN HENRY DAWSON ARCHDALE JP DL (1904-68), of Ashburton, New Zealand, and of Castle Archdale, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1944, married Wilhelmina Rachael, daughter of John Castle, and had issue,

DESMOND, b 1932;
Patrick;
Michael;
Denis Theodore.

First published in March, 2012.

Blessingbourne House

THE MONTGOMERYS OWNED 7,996 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY FERMANAGH

AND 4,552 ACRES IN COUNTY TYRONE

HUGH MONTGOMERY was settled at Derrybrusk, County Fermanagh, by his kinsman, the Rt Rev Dr George Montgomery, Lord Bishop of Clogher, about 1618, and was father of

THE REV NICHOLAS MONTGOMERY (c1615-c1705), of Derrybrusk, Laureate of Glasgow University, 1634, Lieutenant in Sir James Montgomery's Regiment, and afterwards Rector of Carrickmacross, County Monaghan.

He left issue, with two younger sons (Robert, of Derrybrusk, Captain in the army, and Andrew, who succeeded his father as Rector of Carrickmacross), and a daughter, Catherine, who married Captain Alexander Acheson, an elder son,

HUGH MONTGOMERY JP (1651-1723), of Derrygonnelly, Captain of Horse under WILLIAM III, who married Katherine, daughter and heir of Richard Dunbar, of Derrygonnelly (by his wife, Anna Catherina, daughter of Lars Grubbe Stjernfelt, a cousin of King Gustavus Adolphus, of Sweden, and widow of Ludovic Hamilton, Baron of Dalserf, in Sweden), and great-granddaughter of Sir John Dunbar, Knight, of the same place, and had issue,

NICHOLAS;
HUGH, of whom we treat;
Richard, of Monea, Co Fermanagh;
Sarah; Anne; Jane; Margaret; Sidney.

Mr Montgomery's eldest son,

COLONEL NICHOLAS MONTGOMERY (1690-1763), of Derrygonnelly, married firstly, Angel, daughter and heir of William Archdall, of Castle Archdale, County Fermanagh, and assumed the surname of ARCHDALL.

By his first wife he had issue, an only son, Mervyn, MP, of Castle Archdale.

Colonel Montgomery wedded secondly, Sarah, daughter of ______ Spurling, of London, and had further issue,

Robert;
Richard;
Nicholas;
Edward;
Catherine; Sarah; Augusta; Elizabeth.

Hugh Montgomery's second son,

HUGH MONTGOMERY, of Derrygonnelly, wedded Elizabeth, daughter of the Ven William Armar, Archdeacon of Connor (by Martha his wife, daughter of Captain William Leslie, of Prospect), and sister of Colonel Margetson Armar (1700-73), of Castle Coole, County Fermanagh, and was father of Hugh Montgomery, of Castle Hume.

Mr Montgomery died before 1760, leaving a son,

HUGH MONTGOMERY (1739-97), of Castle Hume, who espoused, in 1778, Mary, daughter of Sir Archibald Acheson (afterwards 1st Viscount Gosford), and had issue,

HUGH, his heir;
Archibald Armar;
Mary Millicent.

Mr Montgomery was succeeded by his eldest son,

HUGH MONTGOMERY (1779-1838), of Blessingbourne, Captain, 18th Dragoons, Lieutenant-Colonel, Fermanagh Militia, who married, in 1821, Maria Dolores Plink, of Malaga, Spain, and had an only son,

HUGH RALPH SEVERIN MONTGOMERY (1821-44), of Blessingbourne, who wedded, in 1843, Maria, daughter of Philipp Emanuel von Fellenberg, of Hofwyl, Switzerland, sometime Landmann of the Republic of Bern, and had issue, a son and heir, 

THE RT HON HUGH DE FELLENBERG MONTGOMERY JP DL (1844-1924), of Blessingbourne, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1871, Tyrone, 1888, Captain, Fermanagh Militia, who espoused, in 1870, Mary Sophia Juliana, youngest daughter of the Hon and Rev John Charles Maude, Rector of Enniskillen, and had issue,

HUGH MAUDE DE FELLENBERG, his heir;

Archibald Armar (Sir), GCB etc, Field-Marshal;

Geoffrey Cornwallis;

Francis Trevilian;

(Charles) Hubert (Sir), KCMG etc;

Maurice William de Fellenberg;

Walter Ashley;

Ralph Noel Vernon;

Mary Millicent.

Mr Montgomery was succeeded by his eldest son,

MAJOR-GENERAL HUGH MAUDE DE FELLENBERG MONTGOMERY CB CMG (1870-1954), of Blessingbourne, who married, in 1894, Mary, second daughter of Edmund Langton, and Mrs Massingberd, of Gunby, Lincolnshire, and had issue,

Hugh Edmund Langton (1895-1971);
PETER STEPHEN, of whom hereafter;
Mary Langton; Elizabeth; Anne.

The younger son,

PETER STEPHEN MONTGOMERY JP DL (1909-88), of Blessingbourne, Vice Lord-Lieutenant of County Tyrone, died unmarried.

BLESSINGBOURNE HOUSE, near Fivemiletown, County Tyrone, is an Elizabethan-Revival style manor house built between 1870-74.

It comprises two storeys and an attic storey.

The windows are multi-gabled and mullioned, with carved, round chimney stacks. 

Located just north of Fivemiletown in County Tyrone, much of the estate was in the neighbouring county of Fermanagh.

Blessingbourne passed to the Montgomery family through marriage to the Armor family early in the 18th century.

Image: Irish Architectural Archive

This is a Regency period demesne, created for a modest dwelling of 1810, referred to as, ‘a romantic thatched cottage’ built as a bachelor pad for Hugh Montgomery. 

When the family left County Fermanagh their former seat was Derrygonnelly Castle, which was burnt in the late 18th century. 

Hugh Montgomery, known as ‘Colonel Eclipse’, married in 1821 and travelled abroad, needing the cottage only for very occasional visits.

The present house is considerably more substantial.

It is a large restrained Elizabethan style manor-house designed by F Pepys Cockerell and built between 1870-74 for Hugh de Fellenberg Montgomery, grandson of Hugh.

Its grey stone elevations overlook a natural lough, Lough Fadda and is surrounded by a present-day garden around former sunken lawns, Fastigate yews and a gravel terrace, vestiges of the garden made for the present house.

A planted area and lawns on the south east side, which leads to the lough, is now a grazing field.

Views were opened up in the 1960s.

There is also a late 19th century rhododendron walk.

There are fine mature woodland and parkland trees.

A walk through the woods goes round the lake; a lake walk, via a rockery. 

There is public access in the woods and the Ulster Wildlife Trust undertakes some management here. 

This wood dates from the time of the present house.

The boat house and summer house have gone.

The part-walled garden is partly cultivated and dates from the time of the first dwelling. 

The Gardener’s House was replaced by a bungalow in the 1970s.

There is a delightful little Tudor-style gate lodge, built ca 1845 by Hugh Ralph Severin Montgomery after he succeeded to the property in 1838.

Major-General Hugh Montgomery's brother was Field-Marshal Sir Archibald Montgomery-Massingberd.

Peter Montgomery, former president of the Arts Council of Northern Ireland, stylishly redecorated much of the interior at Blessingbourne.

In December, 2007, the Daily Telegraph published an obituary of Hugh (Montgomery) Massingberd: 

". . . He was born Hugh John Montgomery at Cookham Dean, in Berkshire, on December 30, 1946. His father was in the Colonial Service and later worked for the BBC; his mother was a "Leftward-leaning schoolmistress". 

His remoter background, however, was distinctly grand, even if it promised a great deal more than it delivered.The Montgomerys, seated at Blessingbourne in Co Tyrone, were a Protestant Ascendancy family, albeit exceptionally conscious of the need to right the wrongs suffered by Roman Catholics. 

In his youth Hugh stayed at the Montgomerys' pseudo-Elizabethan (actually 1870) pile in the full expectation that one day it would be his. There was a strong military tradition in the family. Hugh's paternal grandfather was Major-General Hugh Montgomery, while his great-uncle, the major-general's younger brother, ended his career as Field Marshal Sir Archibald Montgomery-Massingberd, Chief of the Imperial General Staff from 1933 to 1936  

. . As a teenager, Hugh seemed to add substance to his dreams when he went to stay with his Uncle Peter at Blessingbourne. Peter Montgomery was something of a figure in Ulster, to such a degree that his homosexuality, at that date unknown to Hugh, did not prevent him from becoming Vice-Lord Lieutenant of Tyrone

... It was, therefore, a shattering blow to be told in his mid-teens that a cousin who intended to be a farmer would inherit Blessingbourne. This youth, it was judged, would be better qualified than Hugh to return the estate to order after years of benign neglect under Peter Montgomery."

The estate was eventually inherited by Captain Robert Lowry, a great-great grandson of Colonel Hugh Montgomery. 

I recall Captain Lowry voluntarily "skippering" the Duke of Westminster's motor yacht, Trasna, on loan to the National Trust ca 1988 at Crom estate:

The Grosvenors, Dukes of Westminster,  had a beautiful, classic, wooden motor yacht which they used to keep at Ely Lodge. It was called Trasna; it was the finest vessel I'd ever seen on Lough Erne. It was about fifty feet in length and held sixteen persons in comfort. Trasna sported a magnificent kind of figurehead on her bow: a golden sheaf, or bundle, of wheat (or corn). The vessel was acquired by the National Trust for a short period before acquisition by the Duke of Abercorn for Belle Isle. 

Colleen and Nicholas Lowry today operate self-catering apartments on the estate.

First published in December, 2009.

Earldom of Ulster

Arms of Richard of York
(Image: European Heraldry)

Shortly after the death of Strongbow in 1176, HENRY II granted "Ulidia," the present counties of Antrim and Down, and afterwards called among the Anglo-Irish "Ulster," to

De Courcy arms

SIR JOHN DE COURCY (1150-1219),

Who having distinguished himself during the reign of HENRY II, in that monarch's wars in England and Gascony, was sent into Ireland, in 1177, as an assistant to William FitzAldelm, in the government of that kingdom. 

Sir John having prevailed upon some of the veteran soldiery to accompany him, invaded the province of Ulster with twenty-two knights, fifty esquires, and about three hundred foot soldiers; and after many hard-fought battles, succeeded in attaching that quarter of the kingdom to the crown. 

For which important service Sir John was created, in 1181 (being the first Englishman dignified with an Irish title of honour), EARL OF ULSTER.

His lordship remained in high favour during the remainder of the reign of his royal master, and performed prodigies of valour in Ireland; but upon the accession of KING JOHN, his splendour and rank having excited the envy of Hugh de Lacy, appointed Governor of Ireland by that monarch, Lord Ulster was treacherously seized while performing penance, unarmed and barefooted, in the churchyard of Downpatrick, on Good Friday, 1203, and sent over to England, where the King condemned him to perpetual imprisonment in the Tower, and granted to de Lacy all of Lord Ulster’s possessions in Ireland.

After the Earl of Ulster had been in confinement for about a year, a dispute happening to arise between KING JOHN and PHILIP II of FRANCE concerning the Duchy of Normandy, the decision of which being referred to single combat, KING JOHN, more hasty than advised, appointed the day, against which the King of France provided his champion; but the King of England, less fortunate, could find no one of his subjects willing to take up the gauntlet, until his captive in the Tower, the gallant Earl of Ulster, was prevailed upon to accept the challenge.

But when everything was prepared for the contest, and the champions had entered the lists, in presence of the monarchs of England, France, and Spain, the opponent of Lord Ulster, seized with a sudden panic, put spurs to his horse, and fled the arena; whereupon the victory was adjudged with acclamation to the champion of England.

The French king being informed, however, of Lord Ulster’s powerful strength, and wishing to witness some exhibition of it, Lord Ulster, at the desire of KING JOHN, cleft a massive helmet in two at a single blow.

The King was so well satisfied at this signal performance, that he not only restored Lord Ulster to his estates and effects, but desired him to ask anything within his gift and it should be granted.

To which Ulster replied, that having estates and titles enough, he desired that his successors might have the privilege to remain covered in the presence of His Majesty, and all future Kings of England; which request was immediately conceded.

He married Affreca, daughter of Godred Olafsson, King of Man and the Isles, and by Scandinavian and Irish help managed to maintain his possessions of Ulidia against all the power of the viceroy Hugh de Lacy, whom he defeated in a battle at Down in 1204; however, in May, 1205, KING JOHN bestowed the Earldom on

HUGH DE LACY (c1176-1242), who, according to Matthew Paris, a most famous soldier, obtained the earldom of Ulster from KING JOHN, by betraying and delivering into that monarch's power the celebrated John de Courcy, Earl of Ulster.

De Lacy arms

He subsequently, however, incurred the displeasure of the King, and was himself driven out of Ireland.

His wife was Emmeline, daughter and heir of Walter de Riddlesford, by whom he left at his decease an only daughter and heir, MAUD DE LACY, who wedded

WALTER DE BURGH (c1230-71), Lord of Connaught, and, became in consequence EARL OF ULSTER (second creation), in her right at her father's decease in 1242, and in his own right in 1264.

The issue of this marriage consisted of four sons, namely,

RICHARD, his successor;

Theobald, died at Carrickfergus;

William;

Thomas.

The eldest son,

RICHARD DE BURGH, 2nd Earl (1259-1326),

Usually called the Red Earl, the most powerful subject in Ireland, and general of all the Irish forces in Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and Gascony, was a great soldier and statesman. He founded the Carmelite monastery at Loughrea, built the castles of Ballymote, Corran, and Sligo, and eventually retired to the monastery of Athassel, where he died in 1326.

This nobleman married Margaret, daughter of John de Burgh.

De Burgh arms

The second son of the marriage,

JOHN DE BURGH, wedded Elizabeth, third daughter of Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, and died in 1313, having had one son,

WILLIAM DE BURGH, 3rd Earl (1312-33), who succeeded his grandfather in 1326, was knighted at London, 1328, and sat in the parliament in Dublin the following year. 

He was murdered on the 6th June, 1333, by Robert FitzRichard de Mandeville and his servants, near Shankill church, outside Belfast, in going to Carrickfergus. His wife and only daughter retired to England; and so barbarous an affair causing a prodigious outcry, the Lord Justice called a parliament, by whose advice he sailed to Carrickfergus; but, before his arrival, the country people had destroyed the murderers, with their abettors, killing, in one day, three hundred.

The wife of this nobleman was Maud, third daughter of Henry Plantagenet, 3rd Earl of Lancaster, grandson of HENRY III; and the only issue of this illustrious alliance,

THE LADY ELIZABETH DE BURGH (1332-63), de jure COUNTESS OF ULSTER, espoused, in 1352,

LIONEL, of Antwerp, KG, third son of EDWARD III, who became, in consequence, 4th Earl of Ulster, Lord of Connaught; and created, in 1362, DUKE OF CLARENCE.

This prince went over to Ireland, and was appointed Lord Lieutenant thereof in 1361.

By the great heiress of De Burgh he left, at his decease, one daughter,

PHILIPPA (1355-82), who was given in marriage, at the age of thirteen, by her grandfather, EDWARD III, to

EDMUND MORTIMER, 3rd Earl of March, and, in consequence of his marriage, 5th EARL OF ULSTER.

The issue of this marriage,

ROGER;

Edmund;

Elizabeth; Philippa.

The 5th Earl's elder son,

ROGER DE MORTIMER, 6th Earl of Ulster (1374-98), wedded Allianore, eldest daughter of Thomas Holland, 2nd Earl of Kent, and had issue,

EDMUND, his successor;

Roger;

Anne; Eleanor.

The elder son,

EDMUND, 7th Earl (1391-1425), and 5th Earl of March, died without issue, and the heir to his estates was the son of his sister, the Lady Anne and the Earl of Cambridge,

RICHARD, 3RD DUKE OF YORK (1411-60), as 8th Earl of Ulster, who wedded Cecily Neville.

The eldest surviving son of this marriage,

EDWARD (1442-83), 4TH DUKE OF YORK, 9th Earl of Ulster, ascended the throne as EDWARD IV, when the Earldom of Ulster merged with the crown.

Ram's Island

Ram's Island is on the eastern side of Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the British Isles.

It lies across the entrance of Sandy Bay, the place where we departed on the 7th July, 2018, for our trip to the tiny island.

In fact Ram's Island used to be considerably tinier, because the water level of the lough has been lowered by about eight feet since 1847.

Prior to 1847, the island extended to a mere six acres; whereas today it comprises over forty acres, a cause of some debate between the owner of the island and the owner of the lake-bed.

Ram's Island ca 1830 (historic OS map)

This little islet was greatly beautified in the 18th century by a previous owner, James Whittle, who planted a profusion of shrubs and trees, laid out an orchard and a garden, and maintained it all most assiduously.

The short journey from Sandy Bay to the island takes less than ten minutes.

We embarked on the good boat Island Warrior and motored across the stretch of water (which occasionally froze over in the past) to a large jetty, where we all disembarked.

There is an old barge adjacent to the jetty, used as a kind of visitor centre for catering and so on.

Refreshed with a good beaker of tea and a bun, we were given a tour by our guide, Michael Savage, who showed us the ancient round tower and the ruins of Lord O'Neill's former cottage.

I should mention that the stump of the tower, about forty-three feet in height, thirty feet in circumference, stands among tall trees.

Its walls are almost three feet in thickness.

This charming islet is a haven today for doves, ducks, blackbirds, finches, even a few hens!

It had a herd of goats until twenty or thirty years ago.

Ram's Island had a monastery in the 11th century, which was seemingly destroyed or plundered by a local tribe in 1121.

Una Brankin wrote an interesting article in 2013 about life on Ram's Island and its resident caretakers.

Lord O'Neill's Cottage  (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2018)

Charles, 1st Earl O'Neill, purchased the island in 1804 for £1,000 (about £84,000 in 2024) and erected a singularly pretty and tasteful cottage.

The 1st (and last) Earl never married. He spent a great deal of time on Lough Neagh, and in a number of cottages which he built at various points in and around the lough. He kept several yachts, including one of the very first steam-powered vessels.

Lord O'Neill adopted it as his occasional residence, and converted the island into a most luxurious demesne.

The entire ground was laid out into walks, and covered with lush green flora.

Several hundred rose trees, exquisite plants and flowers all thrived luxuriantly.

Even those sides of the island which were almost perpendicular were adorned with all those creeping plants and hardy shrubs which were suitable for the location.

The 1st and last Earl also built a resident caretaker's residence.

Lord O'Neill's cottage stands almost directly below the round tower, the remains of which still dominate its roofless shell today.

It was maliciously burnt to the ground in 1944, some seven years after the last caretaker had left the island.

The O'Neill coat-of-arms proudly adorned the front of the cottage overlooking the lough, between two gothic windows, though I examined the walls myself and absolutely nothing remains today to indicate its existence.

There is still some plasterwork inside, though scorch-marks betray the ferocious fire which engulfed the cottage over seven decades ago.

Pebble-dashing (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2018)

It was pebble-dashed, with a very wide, overhanging thatched roof.

This history aroused my interest to the extent that I wrote a bit about the cottage some years ago.

In 2005, Lord O'Neill signed a thirty-year lease with the River Bann and Lough Neagh Association for the custodianship of the island.

During our tour I asked Michael if the O'Neills still had photographs of their times on the island, though he explained that in 1922 the Victorian Shane's Castle had been maliciously burnt, thus destroying all mementoes and Victorian photographs.

Lord O'Neill remarked that their first priority, naturally, had been to save valuable works of art, furniture and so on, and the likes of photographs perished.

So if any readers possess old images of Ram's Island in their attics or lofts, send them to me, please, for publication on the blog.

Our island trip concluded at about three-thirty in the afternoon, and we left a dozen or so campers outside their tents nestling in the woods.

First published in July, 2018.

Dromantine House

THE INNESES OWNED 2,822 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY DOWN 

This family claims descent from that of INNES of Leuchars, a younger branch of the ancient house of INNES, proprietors of the lands of that name in the year 1160; when by a crown charter of MALCOLM IV of Scotland, BEROWALD, styled of Flanders, became first feudal baron or lord of Innes.

His lineal descendant,  JAMES, 16th feudal Baron of Innes, held the appointment of Esquire to JAMES III, King of Scots; and among the family papers is still preserved a charter of some lands granted to him by that monarch, "for faithful service to us of our beloved Esquire, James Innes of that Ilk."

JAMES INNES, laird of Innes, who, in 1490, had the honour of entertaining JAMES IV of Scotland, and many distinguished personages of his court, at his mansion of Innes, married Lady Janet Gordon, daughter of Alexander, 1st Earl of Huntly, and had two sons,

Alexander, whose line subsequently failed;
ROBERT, of Cromy & Rathmackenzie, m daughter of W Meldrum, Baron of Fyvie.

This Robert was succeeded by his younger son,

ALEXANDER INNES, of Blackhills, ancestor of the family of INNES of Leuchars, Fife. His grandson,

ALEXANDER INNES, of Cotts, and afterwards on the death of his half-brother, in 1619, of Leuchars, and Baillie of the Regality and Constable of the Castle of Spynie, known in the family by the quaint sobriquet of Craig-in-Peril, married his cousin, Marjory, eldest daughter of William Gordon, Baron of Gight, great-great-grandson of George, 2nd Earl of Huntly, and his Countess, the Princess Annabella Stewart, youngest daughter of JAMES I of Scotland.

Mr Innes died in 1634, leaving with other issue, his eldest son,

JOHN INNES, of Leuchars, Baillie of the Regality and Constable of the Castle of Spynie (offices confirmed to him by Act of Parliament, 1641).

In 1625, he joined the Scots Guards in the service of the King of France.

Mr Innes married, in 1622, Elizabeth, only daughter of Archibald Douglas, of Pittendreich, and had issue,

JOHN, of Leuchars, imprisoned by the Covenanters; his estate sequestered till the Restoration;
Robert, killed by the Covenanters at Leuchars;
ALEXANDER.

He died in 1645, and was succeeded by his son,

ALEXANDER INNES, called by some the second, and by others the fifth son of John Innes.

He is said to have gone to Ulster at the Restoration, and from him is traced that branch of the family.

He married the daughter of the Rev Edward Brice, Minister of Ballycarry, County Antrim, and had issue,

Brice, of Drumalig;
John, of Dublin;
Robert, Captain in Lord Charlemont's Regiment;
WILLIAM.

The youngest son,

WILLIAM INNES, of Belfast and of Dublin, married his cousin Jane, daughter of Robert Brice, of Castle Chichester, County Antrim, and had, with two daughters, five sons,

Joseph, merchant and shipowner at Belfast;
John;
Alexander;
WILLIAM;
Robert.

The fourth son,

THE REV WILLIAM INNES, born in Dublin, 1691, wedded Isabella, daughter of Lieutenant-Colonel James Simpson, and died in 1735, having had, having had, with five daughters, three sons,

WILLIAM, of whom presently;
John;
James.

The eldest son,

WILLIAM INNES, of Glen Manor, now Dromantine, County Down, married, in 1744, Dorothea, daughter of Charles Brice, of Castle Chichester, County Antrim.

He died in 1785, having had issue,

CHARLES, his heir;
Edward;
ARTHUR, succeeded his brother;
Dorothea; Rose.

The eldest son,

CHARLES BRICE INNES, of Dromantine, High Sheriff of County Down, 1775, died unmarried in 1804 and was succeeded by his brother,

ARTHUR INNES (1755-1820), of Dromantine, Captain, Dragoon Guards, High Sheriff of County Down, 1814, who married, in 1796, Anne, daughter of Major Edward Crow, of Tullamore, King's County, and had issue,

Charles, died in infancy 1799;
ARTHUR, his heir;
William George;
Margaret; Dorothea Elizabeth.

The son and heir,

ARTHUR INNES JP DL (1805-35), of Dromantine, High Sheriff of County Down, 1832, Lieutenant, 3rd Dragoon Guards, married, in 1829, Mary Jervis, daughter and heir of William Wolseley, Admiral of the Red, and had issue,

ARTHUR CHARLES, his heir;
Mary Catherine; Anne Northesk.

The only son and heir,

ARTHUR CHARLES INNES-CROSS JP DL (1834-1902), of Dromantine, MP for Newry, 1865-68, espoused firstly, in 1858, Louisa Letitia Henrietta, second daughter of James Brabazon, of Mornington House, County Meath, and had issue, a daughter,

Edith Clara Brabazon, died young in 1866.

He wedded secondly, in 1887, Jane Beauchamp Cross, of Dartan, was daughter of Colonel Cross DL, of Dartan, County Armagh (whose name he assumed by Royal Licence), and had further issue,

ARTHUR CHARLES WOLSELEY INNES, his heir;
Sydney Maxwell;
Marian Dorothea.

His widow married secondly, in 1907, Herbert Martin Cooke, eldest son of Mason Cooke, of Ely, who assumed, in 1908, the name and arms of CROSS.

Mr Innes-Cross died in 1902, and was succeeded by his son,

ARTHUR CHARLES WOLSELEY INNES-CROSS MC (1888-1940), of Dromantine, Captain, 4th Battalion, Royal Irish Fusiliers, who married, in 1915, Etta, daughter of William Bradshaw, of Wilbraham Place, London.

DROMANTINE HOUSE, near Newry, County Down, was described as new in 1834, replacing a former dwelling of 1741; and was re-modelled from 1860-64, to the designs of McCurdy.

In the 1860s, Arthur Charles Innes-Cross extended the original house, making it even more stately and imposing.

In the early 20th century, the fortunes of the Innes family waned and they decided to sell Dromantine estate.

THE SOCIETY of African Missions (SMA), based in County Cork, was looking for a suitable property in which to prepare their students for missionary work in Africa.

They bought Dromantine House and the 320 acre estate in 1926.

Paying special attention to a harmonious blend with the original architecture, work on St Patrick's wing on the east side commenced in 1931.

St Brendan's wing on the west side was built in 1935 and a new Chapel, which was added to the end of this wing, was consecrated by Bishop Mulhern in 1937.

St Colman's wing, with 62 study-bedrooms for students, and a new assembly/lecture hall, was opened in 1959.

In 1996, major renovation work was completed.

In 2004, the original 19th century courtyard building was sensitively and completely renovated to provide additional conference rooms and facilities.

The 320 acre, part-walled demesne is in a beautiful situation, in undulating drumlin country, and is well maintained.

In 1806 Arthur Innes built the original part of the existing house in Neo-classical style.

When he died in 1820 he left a magnificent house within a beautifully landscaped demesne complete with a newly formed lake.

Parkland and stands of trees occupy most of the ground, which is laid out in the style of a landscape park, possibly designed for the present house.

There is a good deal of woodland. One area, known as Racecourse Wood, possibly used as such, has now gone.

Terracing at the house is now in lawns but a decorative fountain remains.

There is a modest, late 19th century arboretum to the northeast of the house.

The gardens are mentioned in the Garden Annual & Almanac of 1908.

The walled garden is some distance from the house, to the southwest.

It is no longer cultivated and ruinous glasshouse can be seen.

The head gardener’s house has been modernised.

The site has been a missionary college since 1928.

There were two gate lodges, of which one remains. One was built pre-1834; the other, late Victorian.

First published in October, 2012.  Innes-Cross arms courtesy of the NLI.

The Williams-Bulkeley Baronets

THE WILLIAMS-BULKELEY BARONETS OWNED 16,516 ACRES IN THE COUNTY OF ANGLESEY

This eminent family, in common with the Royal House of TUDOR and other distinguished lines derives from EDNYFED FYCHAN (c1170-1246), Chief Minister of Llewelyn the Great. William ap Griffith, of Cochwillan, Caernarvonshire, tenth in descent, assisted HENRY VII at Bosworth. His son, William Williams, of Cochwillan, was the first of the family who assumed the name of WILLIAMS.

William Williams' great-great-grandson,

SIR GRIFFITH WILLIAMS, of Penrhyn, Carnarvonshire (who succeeded to the estates of his uncle, the Rt Hon and Most Rev Dr John Williams, Lord Archbishop of York, 1641-6), was created a baronet in 1661, designated of Penrhyn, Caernarvonshire.

Sir Griffith's great-great-grandson,

SIR ROBERT WILLIAMS, 9th Baronet (1764-1830), married, in 1799, Anne, daughter of the Rev Edward Hughes, and had issue,

RICHARD, his successor;

Robert Griffith;

Arthur Wellesley;

Harriet Georgina; Emma; Anne Susanna; Charlotte Jemima; Eliza Martha; Selina Mary; Amelia Jane.

Sir Robert was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR RICHARD WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 10th Baronet (1801-75), who assumed, in 1827, the additional surname of BULKELEY; having inherited, in 1822, the property of Thomas James, 7th Viscount Bulkeley.

He married firstly, in 1828, Charlotte Mary, daughter of William Lewis Hughes, 1st Baron Dinorben, but had no issue; and secondly, in 1832, Maria Frances, daughter of Sir Thomas Stanley-Massey-Stanley Bt, and had issue,

RICHARD LEWIS MOSTYN, his successor;

Robert Stanley;

Thomas James;

Charles William.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR RICHARD LEWIS MOSTYN WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 11th Baronet (1833-84), who wedded firstly, in 1857, Mary Emily, daughter of Major Henry Bingham Baring, and had issue,

RICHARD HENRY, his successor.

He espoused secondly, in 1866, Margaret Elizabeth Peers, daughter of Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas Peers Williams, and had further issue,

Bridget Henrietta Frances.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his only son,

SIR RICHARD HENRY WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 12th Baronet (1862-1942), KCB VD JP, High Sheriff of Anglesey, 1887, Lord-Lieutenant of Anglesey, 1896, who wedded, in 1885, the Lady Magdalen Yorke, daughter of Charles, 5th Earl of Hardwicke, and had issue,

RICHARD GERARD WELLESLEY, his successor;

Generis Alma Windham; Æira Helen; Siriol Penelope Diana Katherine.

Sir Richard's only son,

RICHARD GERARD WELLESLEY WILLIAMS-BULKELEY MC (1887-1918), Major, Welsh Guards, married, in 1909, Victoria Alexandrina Stella, daughter of the Hon Sir Henry Charles Legge, and had issue,

RICHARD HARRY DAVID, his successor;

David;

Victoria Sylvia Jane.

Major Williams-Bulkeley was killed in action, 1918, when the baronetcy devolved upon his elder son,

SIR RICHARD HARRY DAVID WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 13th Baronet (1911-92), TD JP, Lord-Lieutenant of Anglesey, 1947-73, Gwynedd, 1974-92, who wedded, in 1938, Renée Arundel, daughter of Sir Thomas Lewis Hughes Neave Bt, and had issue,

RICHARD THOMAS, his successor;

Michael.

Sir Richard was succeeded by his elder son,

SIR RICHARD THOMAS WILLIAMS-BULKELEY, 14th Baronet (1939-), DL, High Sheriff of Gwynedd, 1993, who married, in 1964, Sarah Susan, daughter of Sir Henry Josceline Phillimore, and has issue,

RICHARD HUGH (Major, Welsh Guards), born in 1968;

Harry David, born in 1968;

Victoria Mary, born in 1973.

(Image: 28 Days Later)

BARON HILL, Beaumaris, Anglesey, is mainly a two-storey Georgian mansion.

Its south front rendered with stucco.

The five-bay eastern elevation comprises a central projection with a segmental bowed front, a recessed bay either side of this, and semi-octagonal projections at the corners.

The western front has a central porch with four Tuscan columns, with flanking bays projecting slightly, and two further projecting bays at the ends.

There is a balustraded parapet in the central sections of the eastern and western elevations, and also below some of the first floor windows.

The estate, named after the hill on which it stands, was established in 1618 by Sir Richard Bulkeley, as the seat of the influential Bulkeley family, who were originally from Cheshire, until William Bulkeley was appointed Deputy Constable of Beaumaris Castle.

This William Bulkeley married one of the daughters of Gwilym ap Gruffydd ap Gwylim, and began to accumulate land and public offices, which eventually lead to the Bulkeley family becoming the biggest landowners in Anglesey.

The mansion house was begun in 1618 during the reign of JAMES I, and was re-modelled in the Neo-Palladian style in 1776.

EDWARD VII visited Baron Hill and had tea on the terrace in 1907.

Shortly thereafter, during the 1st World War, death duties caused the family fortune to collapse, and made it practically impossible for the family to continue to maintain the house.

They were subsequently obliged to move into more modest accommodation (Red Hill) nearby.

Baron Hill was consequently used for storage until the beginning of the 2nd World War, when it was converted into a billet for Polish soldiers.

It is said that Baron Hill was so cold at night that the Poles burnt down part of the building in the hope that they would be transferred to warmer accommodation.

The estate today contains a golf course, and there have been plans to convert Baron Hill into de luxe apartments.

First published in March, 2021.

Drumlease House

THE WYNNES WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY LEITRIM, WITH 15,436 ACRES

This family claims descent from a distinguished chieftain of the 12th century, Rhirid Flaidd, Lord of Penrhyn, Merionethshire, within the ancient kingdom of Powys, who took the surname of Blaidd, or the wolf, from his maternal ancestor, Blaidd Rhudd, or the Bloody Wolf, Lord of Gest, near Penmorfa, Gwynedd, whose standard bore a wolf passant on an azure ground.

LEWIS GWYNNE AP CADWALLADER AP RYDDERCA AP DAVID, of Bala, wedded Sidney, daughter of Robert Wynne, of Maesmochnant, Denbighshire (of the Gwydir family), and had issue,

OWEN;
Cadwallader;
Catherine; Margaret.

The elder son,

OWEN WYNNE (c1620-70), the first who settled in Ireland, High Sheriff of counties Leitrim and Roscommon, 1659, married Catherine, widow of James Hamilton, son of Sir Frederick Hamilton, and daughter of Claud, 2nd Baron Hamilton of Strabane, by the Lady Jane Gordon his wife, fourth daughter of George, Marquess of Huntly, and the Lady Henrietta Stewart, daughter of Esmé, Duke of Lennox (which lady married thirdly, John Bingham, of Castlebar), and had issue,

James, killed at Malplaquet;
LEWIS, of whom hereafter;
Owen (1665-1737), MP, Lieutenant-General in the army;
John;
Catherine; Lucy; Dorothy.

The second son,

LEWIS WYNNE, married Rebecca, daughter of John Bingham, and was father of

OWEN WYNNE MP (1686-1755), of Hazelwood, High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1723, Leitrim, 1724, who wedded Catherine, daughter of John ffoliot, and had issue,

James, m Susanna, daughter of Sir A Shaen Bt;
OWEN, of whom we treat;
John, died unmarried 1778.

The second son,

THE RT HON OWEN WYNNE MP (1723-89), of Hazelwood, High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1745 and 1758, espoused, in 1754, Anne, sister of Robert, Earl of Farnham, and had issue,

OWEN, his heir;
John;
Henry (Rev); ancestor of WYNNE OF AVOCA;
Robert, of Rathmines Castle;
Richard (Rev);
William, barrister, MP;
Catherine.

Mr Wynne was succeeded by his eldest son,

OWEN WYNNE MP (1755-1841), High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1819 and 1833, who married, in 1790, the Lady Sarah Elizabeth Cole, eldest daughter of William, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, and had issue,

JOHN ARTHUR;
William Willoughby (Rev);
Anne; Sarah Frances; Elizabeth; Florence.

The eldest son,

THE RT HON JOHN ARTHUR WYNNE JP (1801-65), MP for Sligo, Privy Counsellor, Under-Secretary to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, High Sheriff for counties of Sligo and Leitrim, married, in 1838, the Lady Anne Wandesforde Butler, daughter of James, 1st Marquess of Ormonde KP, and had issue,

OWEN;
James;
Sarah; Grace Florence.

The elder son,

OWEN WYNNE JP DL (1843-1910), of Hazelwood, High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1875, Leitrim, 1880, married, in 1870, Stella Fanny, youngest daughter of Sir Robert Gore-Booth Bt, and had issue,

MURIEL CAROLINE LOUISA;
Evelyn Mary; Madeline Mary; Dorothy Adelaide.

Mr Wynne, the last of his family in the direct male line at Hazelwood, succeeded his father in 1865.

His eldest daughter,

MURIEL CAROLINE LOUISA, MRS PERCEVAL, of Hazelwood, wedded, in 1892, Philip Dudley Perceval, second son of Alexander Perceval, of Temple House, County Sligo, and had issue,

DOROTHY SOPHIE PERCEVAL, born in 1903.

I have written about the family's other seat in County Sligo here.

DRUMLEASE HOUSE (also known as Lurganboy), Manorhamilton, County Leitrim, is a three-bay, two-storey over basement former glebe house, built in 1834, with a two-bay extension to the north and entrance porch.

The house was built by the original Owen Wynne who acquired land in the area, probably in the later 17th century.

It was noted as a lodge belonging to Owen Wynne in 1786.

The Rev Wilby Wynne was occupying Drumlease Glebe, barony of Dromahaire, at the time of the Griffith's Valuation.

The house, sometimes known as Lurganboy Lodge, was damaged by fire in 2002.

Former M-profile roof destroyed with ashlar chimneystacks; Snecked sandstone walls with limestone quoins and limestone string course to basement; tooled limestone block-and-start window surrounds and tooled sills set into segmental-headed blind arches to rear and side elevations; courtyard to north with renovated coach house and outbuilding.

The modest design and regular form of the former glebe is enhanced by the detailing in the stonework and the retention of many original features.

The house is located down a long private driveway and is nestled in a wooded area by the banks of the River Bonet.

Unfortunately the house was extensively damaged in a fire in 2002, although some interior joinery and fireplaces still survive.

First published in August, 2013.