The Lady Anne Temple

Dawson Mausoleum (Image: Irish Arts Review)

On the 15th August, 2020, five of us visited Dartrey Estate, County Monaghan.

Having seen the New and Old stable blocks, the Iron Bridge, and the site of Dartrey House, we made our way through dense forest and woodland.

It was a warm and sunny day, perhaps the warmest of the year.

Eventually we emerged at a clearing and a little hill, which we drove up in the car.

A square red-brick building appeared at the top of the hill.

The immediate area round the building has been cleared of foliage, though it is surrounded by forestry commission land densely planted with fir trees.

The Temple directly faces the site of Dartrey House, though today the view is obscured by forest.

We had arrived at the Dartrey Mausoleum, a Georgian temple dedicated to the Lady Anne Dawson (1733-69), wife of Mr Thomas Dawson (1725-1813), later Baron Dartrey, Baron Cremorne and 1st Viscount Cremorne.

Lady Anne Dawson as Diana, by Sir Joshua Reynolds (Image: Sotheby's)

Lady Anne was the youngest daughter of Thomas Fermor, 1st Earl of Pomfret.

A great deal has already been written about the Temple, Lady Anne, and Thomas Dawson, so I shan't (or can't) add to it.

Given its description as a mausoleum, I suppose it's possible that Dawson had considered interring his young wife there, though she was buried at Dartrey Church in the estate, and later her remains were removed to Stoke Poges Church, Buckinghamshire.

John Redmill has written a fine article for the Irish Georgian Society about Lady Anne's Temple.

Noel Carney, a member of Dartrey Heritage Association, led us in to the mausoleum, through the large doors, and a cavernous chamber with a great domed ceiling.

(Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

At the centre of this ceiling there is an oculus, from where light shines through to different parts of the temple at certain times of the day.

The dominant feature inside the Temple is the exquisite sculpture, on a plinth or base, with a large, elaborate funerary urn.

(Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

This urn is adorned with the Dawson coat-of-arms.

In 1774 the Hibernian Journal wrote:-

"A few days ago was landed in Dublin a beautiful marble monument, done by Joseph Wilton Esq, of Portland Street, London, which Lord Dartrey is to erect in a temple at his seat in Co Monaghan to the memory of his late wife, Lady Anne Dawson, daughter of the late Earl of Pomfret."

(Image: Henry Skeath, 2002)

In VOLUME X of the Association for the Preservation of the Memorials of the Dead, Ireland, there is an account of the monument to Lady Anne, written in 1917, describing it thus:-

"On a wooded island [Black Island] in a lake in Lord Dartrey's demesne is a square building, with a single window in the roof, known as the Temple." 

"The monument is placed in an alcove of the wall, and consists of an altar of white marble, with grey background, approached by two steps of alabaster, and surmounted by a carved classic urn of white marble." 

"Resting on a cloud beside the urn is a life-sized figure of an angel, pointing on one hand on high, and with the other to a life-sized draped figure of Mr Dawson, who stands before the altar looking towards her, with an arm uplifted in a supplicating attitude, while his infant son stands clutching him as if in alarm."

The lengthy inscription below the sculpture states that the monument commemorates "Lady Anne Dawson, sixth daughter of Thomas Fermor, Earl of Pomfret ... in a grateful and affectionate sense of the Blessing he enjoyed in such a wife ..."

Lady Anne died in 1769, aged 36, though the monument couldn't have been erected until after 1770, the year Thomas Dawson was created Baron Dartrey.

In 1785, Lord Dartrey was advanced to a viscountcy, as Viscount Cremorne.

The monument to Lady Anne is generally acknowledged to be one of the greatest Georgian memorials in Ireland.

It once stood neglected. The roof had fallen in, and if the sculpture had not been in a niche it would have suffered even more damage from the elements.

Vandals had broken off fingers and toes, and the angel's arm had gone.

This superb sculpture and temple have been largely restored by the Dartrey Heritage Association, with the support of Monaghan County Council, the Irish Heritage Council and the Irish Georgian Society.

(Image: Henry Skeath, 2002)

This wonderful restoration has transformed a ruinous building into an architectural treasure; a phœnix that has risen from the ashes.

First published in August, 2020.

Clarence Street West

Clarence Street West, Belfast, runs from 17 Bedford Street to McClintock Street.

It was formerly a cul-de-sac, dating from about 1880.

During the mid-20th century, 4 Clarence Street West served as the premises of Stanley Harvey & Co, automobile engineers and Rolls-Royce dealers.

Later, it became a ten-pin bowling alley called the Belfast Superbowl.

In 2008, this garage was demolished and replaced by Radisson Hotels' Park Inn.

The hotel reopened in 2025 as a Moxy Hotel.

First published in September, 2012.

Portstewart Strand Acquisition

SELECTIVE ACQUISITIONS IN NORTHERN IRELAND

PROPERTY: Portstewart Strand, County Londonderry

DATE: 1981

EXTENT: 225.82 acres

DONOR: Philip McIntyre

First published in January, 2015.

Charlemont Beneficence

A reader has sent me an interesting account of his grandmother's time in the service of the 7th Viscount Charlemont:-

"My maternal grandmother Laura Foxford worked on the domestic staff of the 7th Viscount at Drumcairne, Stewartstown, County Tyrone.”

"When he died [in 1913] he left enough money to each of his staff to emigrate if that was their wish.”

"My grandmother, who had been born in Plymouth and whose father an ex-Royal Navy Chief Petty Officer (who, on retirement, worked in the pre-partition Irish Coastguard service), opted to move to New York.”

"My grandfather Robert Russell, whose family farm abutted Drumcairne, followed her.”

"They were married in America and my mother, who celebrated her 100th birthday in February of this year, was born there in 1916.”

"They returned to Ireland around 1920.”

"I have a delightful little lady's fob watch in silver which Lord Charlemont gave my grandmother in 1911, according to the engraved inscription."

First published in May, 2016.

The Hamilton Baronets (1660)

CLAUD HAMILTON (1546-1621), youngest son of James, 2nd Earl of Arran and Duke of Châtellerault, by his wife, the Lady Margaret Douglas (eldest daughter of James, 3rd Earl of Moreton), one of the most zealous partisans of MARY, Queen of Scots, whose loyalty JAMES VI of Scotland rewarded, in 1587, with a grant of the whole barony of Paisley, and the dignity of BARON PAISLEY.

His lordship married Margaret, only daughter of George, 5th Lord Seton, and had issue,

JAMES, his successor;
John;
Claud;
George;
Frederick;
Henry;
Alexander;
Margaret; Margaret.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

JAMES (1575-1618), 2nd Lord Paisley, who espoused Marion, daughter of Thomas, 6th Lord Boyd, and had issue,

James, his successor;

Claud, 2nd Baron Hamilton of Strabane;
William, 1st Baronet, of West Port, Linlithgow (c1605-80);
GEORGE, of whom we treat;
Alexander;
Anne; Margaret; Isobel; Lucy.

His lordship was created, in 1603, Baron Abercorn, with remainder to his heirs male, and assigns whatever; and advanced, in 1606, to the dignities of Baron Hamilton, Mountcastle and Kilpatrick, and EARL OF ABERCORN.

He was subsequently called by summons to the house of peers in Ireland, by the same title; and having obtained a large grant of land in the barony of Strabane, erected a strong castle, and a schoolhouse, and church, with a town of about eighty houses there.

The fourth son,

THE HON GEORGE HAMILTON (c1607-79), of Donalong (Dunalong), County Tyrone, and Nenagh, County Tipperary, a faithful adherent of THE CHARLESES, was rewarded with a baronetcy in 1660, designated of Donalong [Dunalong], County Tyrone, and Nenagh, County Tipperary.

Sir George married, in 1629, Mary, third daughter of Thomas, Viscount Thurles, and sister of James, 1st Duke of Ormonde, and had issue,

JAMES, his successor;
George, Comte de Hamilton;
Anthony, Lieutenant-General;
Thomas, Captain;
Richard, Lieutenant-General;
John, Major-General;
Elizabeth, m Philibert, Count de Gramont;
Lucia; Margaret.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR JAMES HAMILTON, 2nd Baronet (c1620-73), MP for Strabane, 1666, who wedded, in 1661, Elizabeth, daughter of John, 1st Baron Colepeper, and had issue,

JAMES, his successor;
George, Colonel;
William.

Sir James was succeeded by his eldest son,

JAMES (c1661-1734), MP for County Tyrone, 1692-9, who espoused, in 1684, Elizabeth, daughter of  Sir Robert Reading, 1st Baronet, and had issue,

JAMES, his successor;
George, MP;
Francis;
William;
Charles, MP;
Elizabeth; Mary; Jane; Philippa.

Captain Hamilton, who succeeded his cousin as 6th Earl of Abercorn, declined assuming the title of baronet upon the demise of his grandfather in 1679, and was known simply as "Captain Hamilton."

*****

THE PERIOD immediately after the Flight of The Earls in 1607 was marked largely by relative peace; however, instability was never far from the horizon.

The 1641 rising led by Sir Phelim O'Neill, of Caledon, was the next major event to beset the district.

After the capture of Dungannon, Charlemont and Mountjoy, Sir Phelim attacked Strabane and carried off Lady Strabane, daughter-in-law of Lord Abercorn.

Colonel Sir George Hamilton retook Strabane three days later with an expeditionary force of Scottish soldiers.

Derrywoon Castle is now within the grounds of Baronscourt, near Newtownstewart, seat of the Hamiltons, Dukes of Abercorn.

A report on the Plantation from 1622 noted that Sir George had 

"begun to build a fair stone house, 4 storeys high, which is almost finished, and a bawn of stone and lime, 90 foot long, 70 foot broad and 14 foot high".

When the compilers of the report arrived at the site they found ‘good store of workmen there upon it’ and were informed that when it was finished Sir George intended to live there himself.

The building was destroyed in the 1640s and by the time of the Civil Survey (1654-56) it was described as ‘a ruinous castle burned by the rebels [and] not yet re-edified’.

There is no evidence that it was rebuilt.

Hamilton was one of the proprietors of the silver mines of Knockaunderrig before the English Civil War.

Hamilton's early advancement was hindered by his Catholicism, but he was appointed a colonel of foot, 1649, and upheld the Royalist cause in Ireland.

He was the commander at Nenagh when Ireton arrived to besiege it for the Parliamentarians in October, 1650.

Initially defiant, Hamilton surrendered to Ireton when the latter threatened to breach the walls with artillery.

Hamilton's Irish lands were confiscated and he went into exile in Paris.

Upon the Restoration, he was high in favour with CHARLES II and was rewarded with a baronetcy in 1660.

Regarding Nenagh in County Tipperary, in 1648 Owen Roe O'Neill took Nenagh Castle.

Lord Inchiquin re-took it that same year and, when Cromwell arrived in Ireland, Nenagh was being held by Sir George Hamilton.

In October, 1650, Cromwell's son Ireton arrived at and demanded the surrender of the town.

Hamilton initially refused, but when field artillery was put in place in front of the town's walls he wisely yielded.

See Duke of Abercorn for further succession.

James, 5th and present Duke of Abercorn, KG, is the 15th Hamilton Baronet.

First published in April, 2011.  Hamilton arms courtesy of European Heraldry.

Cootehill: III

Dartrey House

The Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland tells us that County Monaghan is an inland county, in the centre of the south of the historic province of Ulster.

It is bounded, on the north, by Tyrone; on the east, by Armagh; and on the west, by Cavan and Fermanagh.

Dawson Grove, now Dartrey, County Monaghan,

"A noble and magnificent demesne, the property of the Viscount Cremorne [later Earl of Dartrey], on the southern margin of the barony of Dartrey, is situated on the gorgeous chain of the Cootehill lakes, 1½ miles from Cootehill; and is separated from the rival demesne of Bellamont Forest in County Cavan, only by the narrow belt of one of the main lakes called Dromore." 

"From the contiguity of Dawson Grove and Bellamont Forest, and the beautiful natural lakes which in many places form their line of demarcation, they may be said in various instances to reflect each other." 

"Separately they are splendid residences; conjointly they form a rich combination of many of the elements of landscape."

On Saturday afternoon four of us met Noel Carney, of Dartrey Heritage Association, who took us to see Dartrey demesne, former seat of the extinct Earls of Dartrey.

This was my first visit to Dartrey, once a very large estate comprising almost 18,000 acres, with extensive boundary walls and picturesque gate lodges (there were eight in total) carrying on interminably.

We stopped off en route at the main entrance lodge of ca 1847, fully restored, extended, and inhabited, once incorporating the estate post office.

This lodge is made of ashlar stone, with a Tudor-style entrance surmounted by a blank shield.

The New Stable Block (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

Several hundred yards further along the main public road we turned into another driveway, which eventually led us to the "new" stable block, a large, impressive, grand affair comprising five sides in red brick.

This derelict stable block was constructed in the 1840s to replace an older block.

The standard of craftsmanship by masons was remarkable, as Noel pointed out to us.

The bricks were made in situ, and even straw marks could be seen on the ones that had dried on the ground.

The New Stable Block is not in a good state, although it's not beyond redemption for another purpose, such as apartments or business premises, or units.

It was practically ruinous several decades ago, and today at least it's in better condition than that.

The New Stable Block (Image: Henry Skeath, 2002)

There used to be a large clock encased in a circular stone feature in the middle of the block, though it has disappeared.

The original or "Old" Stable Block (Image: Henry Skeath, 2002)

A short distance further on we stopped off at the original, or "Old" stable block of, it is thought, the 1770s.

It, like its younger sibling, is privately owned and closed off.

The Island Bridge, Dartrey (Image: Timothy Ferres, 2020)

THEREAFTER we drove through overgrown estate tracks to the Island Bridge, also known as the Iron Bridge, which connects the estate to Black Island.

This is a single-arch bridge, erected in the 1840s, which leads to the glorious mausoleum or temple dedicated to the Lady Anne Dawson.

The skill of the blacksmiths and stonemasons  can be admired on this little bridge, with its superbly carved stone abutments and wrought-iron handrails.

When we crossed the bridge we caught a glimpse of the remains of the great mansion house of Dartrey. All that's left of it today is the basement and rubble.

Dartrey House (or Castle) was demolished in 1946, because the last member of the Dawsons to live there, Lady Edith, simply couldn't afford to maintain it, and couldn't find a buyer.

First published in August, 2020.

Milverton Hall

THE WOODS' WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY DUBLIN, WITH 4,141 ACRES.

JOHN WOODS (1628-1710), of Yorkshire ancestry, went to Ireland on military service at the time of the Revolution.

He married Isabella Bruce, a lady of Scottish origin, and was father of

THOMAS WOODS, of Kilmeage, County Kildare, who wedded Margaret O'Hara; and dying in 1745, left a daughter, Araminta, and a son,

GEORGE WOODS, of Dunshaughlin, County Meath, and of the city of Dublin, who espoused, in 1737, Mary, daughter and co-heiress of John Hogan, of County Dublin (by Isabella his wife, daughter of Cornelius Hamlin), and by her had issue,

JOHN, his successor;
Thomas;
George, RN;
Catherine; Maria Isabella; Hester; Elizabeth; Harriet.

Mr George Woods died in 1781, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN WOODS (1738-1826), of Winter Lodge, County Dublin, who wedded, in 1783, Hannah, eldest surviving daughter and co-heiress of Joshua Warren, of Galtrim, County Meath, and had issue,

GEORGE, his heir;
Maria; Hannah.

Mr Woods was succeeded by his only son,

GEORGE WOODS JP (1786-1876), of Milverton Hall, County Dublin, High Sheriff of County Dublin, 1822, who married, in 1812, Sarah, eldest daughter of Hans Hamilton, of Abbotstown, County Dublin ( MP for that county for thirty years), and had issue,

John (1813-19);
HANS HAMILTON, of whom hereafter;
George (1816-36);
Sarah Jane, m to G A Rochfort-Boyd, of Middleton Park;
Hannah Maria; Frances Sophia; Jane Law.

Mr Woods was succeeded by his only surviving son,

HANS HAMILTON WOODS JP DL (1814-79), of Whitestown House, and Milverton Hall, County Dublin, High Sheriff of County Dublin, 1854, who wedded, in 1840, Louisa Catherine, third daughter of the Hon and Rev Edward Taylor, of Ardgillan Castle, County Dublin, by his wife Marianne, eldest daughter of the Hon Richard St Leger, son of 1st Viscount Doneraile, and had issue,

George John (1842-85);
EDWARD HAMILTON, of whom hereafter;
Warren St Leger;
Hans Charles Maunsell;
Richard Taylor;
Marianne Sarah; Louisa Harriet.

Mr Woods was succeeded by his second son,

EDWARD HAMILTON WOODS JP DL (1847-1910), High Sheriff of County Dublin, 1883, Lieutenant, Royal Meath Militia, who espoused, in 1879, Katherine Margaret, fourth daughter of Captain Richard Everard, of Randlestown, County Meath, by his wife, Mathilde Arabella, daughter of Le Marquis d'Amboise, and had issue,

EDWARD GEORGE, his heir;
Arthur Hans Hamilton (1881-2);
Reginald Everard (1883-96);
Charles John;
Kathleen May Ethel; Violet Amy; Eileen Sylvia.

Mr Woods was succeeded by his eldest son,

EDWARD GEORGE WOODS (1880-1954), of Milverton Hall, Captain, 8th Hussars, who served in the South African War, 1900-02.

MILVERTON HALL, Skerries, County Dublin, was a 19th century house in the Italianate-French Château style, of two storeys over a basement and with a dormer attic in the mansard roof.

The entrance front had three centre bays recessed between one-bay projections; a deep, single-storey, balustraded Doric portico; five-bay side elevation.

Edward George Woods brought forward plans to rebuild the Hall and decided to knock the old house and build a new one on the site.

The new Italianate Milverton Hall was built in two years, to the designs of the architect, Rawson Carroll, and cost over £16,000.

Image: Joe Curtis/ Jim Bennett, Cricket Europe

A very impressive house was built and the Woods family continued to live there until the 1950s.

The Wentges family then came to Milverton through marriage, and they have managed the estate for the past 40 years.

The Wentges built a modern dwelling in the 1960s.

When Edward Woods died, death duties ensued with a tax bill.

Robert and Rosemary Wentges were faced with difficult times and decisions; and, in the interests of saving the estate, they knocked down the old house in 1961, building the present home on the same site.

From then on the family, including Michael Wentges, have expended considerable effort in maintaining the demesne, planting twelve acres of woodland and forming a new lake for a wildlife habitat.

The planting began in 1961 and has carried on in such idyllic locations as Shady lane Wood, Foxes Hole Wood, Sophie’s Wood, Grange, Rosemary’s Wood, Balcunnin, Hill of Ardla and Hannah’s Wood.

The present family attachment at Milverton spans three centuries, a quite remarkable feat when one considers the likes of the estates at Ardgillan and Newbridge House, as well as Malahide, which have long since been taken over by local councils.

The very nature of the people behind Milverton, however, suggests that their love of the place will never die and their hold on it will always remain in some form.

This estate has been maintained and managed very well by all the owners.

Over the years thousands of trees have been planted.

There are three small lakes on the land, wetlands, wildlife habitats and an equestrian centre.

Part of the farm at Ardla has been given over to the local council and a new graveyard developed there to supplement the ancient Holmpatrick cemetery.

The present demesne comprises some 437 acres, and there has been a planning proposal to develop two golf courses, a golf club house, tennis academy, putting and practice ranges, a hotel comprising 250 bedroom and suites; and 50 houses.

As of today, Milverton demesne retains many of the features of an old demesne landscape: gate lodges at entry points, mature trees as shelter belts, woodland belts within the demesne to act as cover and shelter, a historic core containing ornamental tree species which suggests the remains of ornamental gardens.

In addition, the site included the remains of an early church site and graveyard, which are listed as a recorded monument.

Together with the adjoining Ardgillan Demesne, Milverton and its woodland forms a substantial block of mature trees when viewed from Skerries and the coast.

First published in August, 2012.