Belfast Castle: III

AN ARTICLE FROM EDDIE'S BOOK EXTRACTS

THE VIEW from the gardens and the castle was, perhaps, unsurpassed for the beauty of its quiet landscape.

The fertile valley through which the Lagan wended its seaward course had as a background the hills of Castlereagh (Grey Castle) with the old residence of Con O'Neill occupying a prominent position on the summit; while the slopes of the Holywood hills were visible across the twenty-one arches of the Long Bridge.

The Cromac wood, at that time the undergrowth of the primeval forest, lay to the south, skirting the west bank of the Lagan and extending westward as far as the present Shaftesbury Square.

The River Blackstaff meandered in its zig-zag course from the Great Bridge of Belfast, alias Brickhill Bridge, alias Saltwater Bridge, to its outlet at the south of the Long Bridge and, in its course, supplying fresh water to the Castle fish pond, situated at the present Arthur Square.

To the west rose the Black Mountain, a basaltic range of hills, one of which is still known as the Squire's Hill, converted into a deer park by the Lord Deputy, a district now known as Old Park, with the grazing ground covered with sites for residential dwellings.

To the north arose the clear outline of Ben Madigan, with its streaks of limestone glistening in the sunshine, and the contour of its summit bearing a striking resemblance to the profile of Napoleon Bonaparte.

The trees of the new deer park, so-called to distinguish it from the Old Park, sloped in an easterly direction from the Cave Hill to the shores of the Belfast Lough, terminating at Parkmount.

Early on Sunday morning, 25th April, 1708, the Castle was reduced to a mass of smouldering ruins and there perished in the flames the three youngest daughters, Lady Jane, Lady Frances, and Lady Henrietta Chichester.

The daughter of the Vicar, the Rev Mr Barklie, and a servant maid, Catherine Douglas, and a maid, Mary Teggart, escaped from the devouring flames.

The cause of the fire is said to have been due to the carelessness of a servant who lit a wood fire in a room recently washed, and took no precautions to watch for sparks.

All the goods were also destroyed before the men of the town could get in within the walls to help; and these walls were twelve feet high.

Such is the account, written by a prominent Belfast resident at the time of the occurrence.

A considerable quantity of silver plate and objets d'art were apparently rescued from the Castle.

First published in July, 2012.

1st Earl of Belmore

Lineage of Corry

JOHN CORRY, former provost of Dumfries in Scotland, settled, in 1639, at Tullynagardy, in the Ards, County Down.

The Corrys were probably well-known in Newtownards during the 17th and 18th centuries: Another John Corry (1771-1851), a farmer, married Susan White. They farmed at Concord Farm, Tullynagardy, built about 1800, but beside ruins ca 300 years old.

Later in life he established a timber business in Belfast called Corry & Montgomery, in 1814, and it was the foundation of the James P Corry & Company in 1814. John moved to Ballyalton House, beneath Scrabo Hill, after he gave the Tullynagardy farm to his daughter Mary, born in 1794. They called it Concord Farm. John Corry and his wife Susan had eight children.

Yet another branch established the Corry's Star Shipping line. They owned Scrabo Quarries and helped to build early Belfast. One of their ships was named the Jane Porter. Robert Corry is remembered as having introduced Scrabo Stone to Ireland as a building material.

He started the firm originally as building contractors and became a great timber merchant; and he founded a major shipping line. 

The original John Corry was appointed a freeman of Belfast in 1654.

Corry spent only a brief period in Belfast and Lisburn before purchasing lands in County Fermanagh.

Corry thrived and, in 1646, bought the Coole estate from Roger Atkinson for £860.

Its extent was about 4,576 acres.

He married Blanch Johnston and had a son,

COLONEL JAMES CORRY (1634-1718), of Castle Coole, MP for Fermanagh, 1692-1718, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1671, and County Monaghan, 1677, who married firstly, in 1663, Sarah, daughter of Oliver Anketell, of Anketell Grove, County Monaghan, and had, with other issue,

JOHN, of whom presently.

He wedded secondly, 1683, Lucy, daughter of Henry Mervyn, of Trillick, without further issue.

Colonel Corry was succeeded by his only son,

COLONEL JOHN CORRY (1667-1726), of Castle Coole, MP for Enniskillen, 1711-13, County Fermanagh, 1719-26, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1711, who espoused, in 1701-2, Sarah, third daughter and co-heir of William Leslie, of Prospect, County Antrim, and had issue,

LESLIE, of Castle Coole;

Martha, m Captain Edmund Leslie;

SARAH, m Galbraith Lowry; mother of Armar, 1st Earl of Belmore;

Mary; Elizabeth.

Lineage of Lowry

JAMES LOWRY or LAURIE (who is said to have been of the family of Laurie of Maxwelton), moved from Scotland to Ulster during the 17th century, settled at Ballymagorry, County Tyrone, before 1641, and died intestate 1665.

He was succeeded by his son,

JOHN LOWRY (1609-89), of Aghenis, County Tyrone, who married firstly, Mary, daughter of James Buchanan, and by her had, with other issue,

ROBERT, of whom presently.

He wedded secondly, Jane, daughter of William Hamilton, of Ballyfatten, and by her had further issue.

He was present with his second wife at the siege of Derry, where he died in 1689.

His eldest son,

ROBERT LOWRY, of Aghenis, one of the Commissioners for the counties of Armagh and Tyrone, 1698, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1707-8 and 1719, espoused Anna, daughter of the Rev John Sinclair, of Holyhill, County Tyrone, by Anna Galbraith, and died in 1729, having had issue,

Robert, dsp;
GALBRAITH;
James (Rev), founded the branch seated at Pomeroy House.

Robert Lowry (Image: National Trust, Castle Coole)

The second son and eventual heir,


GALBRAITH LOWRY-CORRY (1706-69), of Aghenis, MP for County Tyrone, 1748-68, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1733, and County Monaghan, 1743.

He assumed, 1764, on the death of his sister-in-law Martha, wife of Edmund Leslie-Corry MP, the additional surname and arms of CORRY.

Galbraith Lowry-Corry MP (Image: The National Trust)

He wedded, in 1733, Sarah, second daughter and eventual co-heir of Colonel John Corry MP, of Castle Coole, and had issue,

ARMAR, his successor;
Anne, m William, 1st Earl of Enniskillen.

Mr Lowry-Corry was succeeded by his son,

ARMAR LOWRY-CORRY (1740-1802), MP for County Tyrone, 1768-81, who assumed the additional surname and arms of CORRY.

Mr Lowry-Corry was elevated to the peerage, in 1781, in the dignity of Baron Belmore, of Castle Coole, County Fermanagh.

1st Earl of Belmore (Image: the National Trust)

His lordship was advanced to a viscountcy, in 1789, as Viscount Belmore; and further advanced, in 1797, to the dignity of an earldom, as EARL OF BELMORE.

He espoused, in 1772, the Lady Margaret Butler, eldest daughter of Somerset, 1st Earl of Carrick, by whom he had an only surviving child,

SOMERSET, styled Viscount Corry.

His lordship married secondly, in 1780, Harriet, eldest daughter and co-heir of John, 2nd Earl of Buckinghamshire, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, by whom he had an only daughter, Louisa Mary Anne, who wedded, in 1804, George, 6th Earl of Sandwich.

He married thirdly, in 1794, Mary Anne, daughter of Sir John Caldwell Bt, but by her had no issue.

His lordship was succeeded by his son and heir,

SOMERSET, 2nd Earl (1774-1841), MP for County Tyrone, 1797-1800, Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief of Jamaica, 1828-32, who wedded, in 1800, the Lady Juliana Butler, daughter of Henry, 2nd Earl of Carrick, and had issue,

ARMAR, his successor;
Henry Thomas;
Sarah.

2nd Earl of Belmore (Image: the National Trust)

His lordship was succeeded by his elder son,

ARMAR, 3rd Earl (1801-45), High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1832, who espoused, in 1834, Emily Louise, daughter of William Shepherd, and had issue,

SOMERSET RICHARD, his successor;
Armar, grandfather of 7th Earl;
Frederick Cecil George;
Henry William.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

SOMERSET RICHARD, 4th Earl (1835-1913), GCMG PC JP, Governor of New South Wales, 1868-72, who married, in 1861, Anne Elizabeth Honoria, daughter of Captain John Neilson Gladstone, and had issue,

ARMAR, his successor;
CECIL, 6th Earl;
Ernest;
Theresa; Florence; Madeline; Mary; Winifred; Edith; Violet; Margaret; Dorothy; Kathleen.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

ARMAR, 5th Earl (1870-1948), JP DL, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1901, Captain, Inniskilling Fusiliers, who died unmarried, and was succeeded by his brother,

CECIL, 6th Earl (1873-1949), JP DL, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1916, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1922, who died unmarried, and was succeeded by his cousin,

GALBRAITH ARMAR, 7th Earl (1913-60), JP DL, Major, Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, who married, in 1939, Gloria Anthea, daughter of Herbert Bryant Harker, and had issue,

JOHN ARMAR, his successor;
Anthea Geraldine (the Lady Anthea Forde);
Sarah Lilian.

His lordship was succeeded by his only son,

JOHN, 8th and present Earl (1951-), of the Garden House, Castle Coole, who married, in 1984, the Lady Mary Jane Meade, daughter of John, 6th Earl of Clanwilliam, and has issue,

JOHN ARMAR GALBRAITH, Viscount Corry;
Montagu Gilford George;
Martha Catherine.

I have written an article about the Lowrys of Pomeroy here.

As 1st Earl of Belmore, Armar Lowry-Corry's three names represented the three components of his future inheritance: Armar, the valuable church-lands in Fermanagh; Lowry, his paternal estate in Tyrone; and Corry, the remainder of his Fermanagh estate and his country seat.

Belmore Mountain - or Mount Belmore - is a hill in west County Fermanagh.

 I've written about the 8th and present Earl.

In 1852 the Fermanagh estate amounted to 7,140 acres in addition to the 14,900 acres of church-land leased from the Lord Bishop of Clogher; while the Tyrone lands comprised 41,448 acres.

The Belmore estates also encompassed counties Monaghan, Longford, Armagh and Dublin. This amounted, in all, to 72,715 acres.

In 1789 the gross rentals were as follows: Fermanagh church-lands £2,700; Fermanagh estate £1,400; Longford estate plus miscellaneous small properties £1,565; and Tyrone estate £7,130: giving a total rental of £12,795. By 1800 this had increased to £16,645.

The income generated by the estates allowed Castle Coole to be constructed at a cost of £57,000 in 1798, equivalent to approximately £20 million today.

The Belmores were one of the most powerful and influential landed families of their time.

Apart from their County Fermanagh seat, the palatial Castle Coole, the Belmores had a London house at 56 Eaton Place.

The family today live at the Garden House in the grounds of Castle Coole.

Belmore arms courtesy of European Heraldry.   First published in December, 2009.

Lighthouse Island: I

Lighthouse Island: East Jetty

IN SEPTEMBER, 2012, I SPENT A WEEKEND ON LIGHTHOUSE ISLAND, ONE OF THE COPELAND ISLANDS

THE COPELAND ISLANDS lie off the south side of the entrance of Belfast Lough, County Down.

They were the property of KER OF PORTAVO.

The Copelands take their name, however, from a family who settled in Ards, in the 12th century, during the time of John de Courcy.

Lighthouse Island lies less than a mile north-northeast of Big Island, and comprises about 40 acres of arable land, with a coastline of about a mile in circumference.

A lighthouse upon it had a square tower with walls seven feet in thickness, and seventy feet in height to the lantern.

Its light could distinctly be seen at Portpatrick and the Mull of Galloway in Scotland.

Timothy Belmont has been incommunicado for forty-eight hours, mainly due to the fact that I have spent that time at Lighthouse Island, one of the Copeland Islands, opposite Donaghadee, County Down.

I arrived at Donaghadee on Friday afternoon at about four-thirty, parked the car, and swiftly made a bee-line for Pier 36, a well-frequented establishment on the sea-front near the harbour.

At Pier 36, I seated myself up at the bar and ordered a G&T.

Rosie and Nick, two fellow National Trust volunteers, arrived soon afterwards.

We had another drink, then ordered a meal.

 I had the halibut with buttery mash and asparagus tips, which was simply delicious.

Craig and his party then arrived, and we proceeded to make for our ferry, MV Mermaid, which took about fifteen of us, including eight NT personnel, to Lighthouse Island.

This compact little island lies behind the main Copeland Island itself.

The journey took about forty-five minutes.

When we arrived at the small jetty, we disembarked and unloaded various provisions and tools for the weekend's task.

Wheelbarrows are used to take bulky items up the hill to the cottage, also known as Copeland Bird Observatory.

Having set up camp and having been told the basic house rules and regulations, I chose my bunk in the male dormitory, which sleeps nine.

Later that evening, we were all invited to join Davy, the duty officer, catching and ringing juvenile Manx Shearwaters, quite remarkable sea-birds which live in burrows and are not great on the feet.

Indeed, they are relatively easy to catch at night.

We also caught and ringed a fair number of swallows.

We were all given the opportunity to release them outside the ringing office.

When darkness fell, these wonderful little birds sat on the palm of my hand for a few minutes, before flying away.

Next episode ... ablutions and eating arrangements

Dalway of Carrickfergus

THE DALWAYS OWNED 2,477 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ANTRIM

JOHN DALLWAYE (1550-1618) went over to Ulster from Devon in 1573, a cornet in the army of ELIZABETH I under Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex.

John Dallwaye was Mayor of Carrickfergus, 1592 and 1600, and in 1613 was MP for Bangor in the Parliament of Ireland.

The Common Seal of Carrickfergus

He married Jane, granddaughter of Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone, and related by the mother to Shane MacBrian O'Neill, of Lower Clandeboye.

John Dallwaye obtained from Shane MacBrian O'Neill a grant of the greater part of the Tough of Bradenisland, or Broad Island (Ballycarry), and the lands of Kilroot.

On O'Neill's death, his lands became forfeited to the Crown; but in 1603, John Dallwaye, being then Constable of Carrickfergus Castle, obtained from JAMES I for ever "the Barony of Bradiland, at the rent of xiii Engl., to hold in free and common socage, as of the Castle of Carrickfergus." 

These lands, together with those purchased from James Hamilton, Lord Claneboye, were, in 1608, erected by letters patent, into the Manor of Dallwaye.

By his marriage with Jane he had an only child, Margaret (who wedded, ca 1603, John Dobbs, of Castle Dobbs).

Dallwaye made a freehold lease to Dobbs of the lands now called Castle Dobbs.

John Dallwaye was succeeded by his nephew,

JOHN DALLWAY, the elder son of his brother Giles (he had a younger brother also named John, who was captain in the army, and High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1636).

He married a daughter of William Edmonstone, of Red Hall, and had issue,

ALEXANDER, his heir;

Robert;

John;

Archibald;

Henry;

Helen.

John Dallway was Mayor of Carrickfergus, 1660 and 1661.

He died in 1665, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

ALEXANDER DALWAY, High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1662, who espoused Anne, daughter of John Parkes, of Carrickfergus, and had issue,

JOHN, his heir;

Robert;

Elinor; Mary; Jane.

He died in 1668, and was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN DALWAY, who dsp 1687, and left his estates to his uncle,

COLONEL ROBERT DALWAY (1645-99), MP for Antrim Borough, 1696-9, who married, in 1695, Mary, daughter and heir of Sir John Williams, 2nd Baronet, of Minster, in Thanet, Kent, and widow of Charles, 1st Baron Shelburne, by whom he had issue,

ALEXANDER, his heir;

Henry;

John;

Anne; Elinor.

His eldest son,

ALEXANDER DALWAY (1669-1718), MP for Carrickfergus, 1715-18, wedded, in 1695, Anna Helena, daughter of Archibald Edmonstone, of Red Hall, and had issue,

ROBERT, his heir;

Archibald;

Alexander;

Elizabeth; Anne; Helena; Emily; Lettice.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

ROBERT DALWAY, who married, in 1718, Mary, daughter of Joseph Marriott, a brewer, of Francis Street, Dublin, and secondly, Jane Steele, of Craig's Castle, Ballymena.

By his first wife he had issue,

Robert, died in infancy;

MARRIOTT, his heir;

Mehetabella, m Noah Webb, and had issue, NOAH, of whom presently;

Anne; Eleanor; Mary.

Robert Dalway, High Sheriff of County Dublin, 1740, and a burgess in Parliament for the borough of Newry, 1721, died in 1761, and was succeeded by his son,

MARRIOTT DALWAY (c1725-95), MP for Carrickfergus, 1761-8, colonel of a volunteer battalion raised by himself, 1784; who dsp 1795, leaving his estates to his nephew, NOAH WEBB (see above), who in accordance with the will of his uncle assumed the name and arms of DALWAY.

This NOAH DALWAY (c1746-1820), of Bella Hill, Kilroot, County Antrim, espoused, in 1795, Ellen, daughter of the Ven. Conway Benning, Archdeacon of Dromore, and had issue,

MARRIOTT, his heir;

Noah, Lieutenant RN;

John Benning;

Henry;

George Montague;

Anne; Mary Margaret; Ellen; Millicent Jane; Jane; Lucy; Mehetabella.

Noah Dalway, a Commander in the Royal Navy, was MP for Carrickfergus, 1799-1800, Mayor of Carrickfergus, 1806, 1809, 1811, and 1816; and was the first MP for Carrickfergus in the UK Parliament, 1801.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

MARRIOTT DALWAY (1798-), of Bella Hill, who married, in 1827, Euphemia, daughter of Thomas Henry, of Castle Dawson, County Londonderry, and had issue,

MARRIOTT ROBERT, his heir;

Euphemia.

Mr Dalway was four times High Sheriff for the county of the town of Carrickfergus, and Mayor of Carrickfergus, 1838-42.

He was succeeded by his son,

MARRIOTT ROBERT DALWAY DL (1832-1914), MP for Carrickfergus, 1868-80, High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1859, who married, in 1859, Elizabeth, daughter of Andrew Armstrong Barnes, and had issue,

MARRIOTT WILLIAM;

Robert;

John;

Elizabeth.

Marriott Robert Dalway and his family emigrated to Australia in 1886, where he died at Lorne, Victoria.

Dalway's Bawn and Bellahill (historic OS map)

BELLA HILL, according to the Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland in 1844, was a demesne in the parish of Kilroot, barony of Lower Belfast, County Antrim.

Bellahill House (Green Collection/NMNI)

It was situated 4½ miles north-east by north of Carrickfergus, close to the road thence to Larne.

"The modern mansion occupies a commanding site a little west of the road; and the old castellated mansion, consisting of two large towers, connected by a curtain wall, which is perforated with the entrance gateway, stands on the roadside, and is now used as stables."

The original dwelling is today known as "Dalway's Bawn."

Dalway's Bawn (Green Collection/NMNI)

The Northern Ireland Department of Communities website describes it thus:

"A well-preserved example of an early 17th century planter’s fortified enclosure, built in about 1609 by John Dalway, constable of Carrickfergus Castle, to secure his royal grant of land in the area." 

"Now enmeshed with a working farm, only part of the bawn is in State Care – the roadside wall and three flanker towers, viewable only from the road. A dwelling house formerly stood inside the bawn, but it was demolished in the 19th century."

Killymoon Castle

Stewart of Ballymenagh

Early in the reign of JAMES VI and I,

JAMES STEWART (1595-1679) moved from Scotland, and purchasing Cookstown, County Tyrone, and the adjacent lands from Dr Allen Cooke, settled himself at Ballymenagh; while his brother, Andrew Stewart (ancestor of SIR JOHN STEWART, of Athenree, created a baronet, 1803), settled at Gortigal in the same county.

He married Barbara Lindsey, of Leith, and dying at Derryloran, County Tyrone, left a son,

WILLIAM STEWART (1625-1706), who moved to Killymoon, County Tyrone, which his father had purchased in 1634, and wedded Margaret, eldest daughter of John Shaw, of BALLYGALLY, County Antrim, by whom he had issue,

JAMES;
Alexander;
Henry, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1711;
John, drowned in the river Killymoon whilst yet a boy;
Margaret; Mary.

The eldest son,

JAMES STEWART (1665-1726), of Killymoon, married, in 1709, Helen, daughter of Patrick Agnew, of KILWAUGHTER, County Antrim, and had issue,

WILLIAM, his heir;
Patrick;
Margaret, m William Agnew, of Kilwaughter.

The eldest son,

WILLIAM STEWART (1710-97), of Killymoon and Ballymenagh, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1738, MP for County Tyrone, 1747-68, espoused, in 1740, Eleanor, eldest daughter of Sir Henry King Bt, of Rockingham, and had issue,

JAMES, of Killymoon, MP;
HENRY, of whom presently;
Edward, of London;
Isabella; Frances.

William Stewart (Image: the National Trust)

The eldest son,

JAMES STEWART (1742-1821), of Killymoon, MP for County Tyrone, 1768, married, in 1774, Elizabeth, daughter and eventually co-heir (with Lady Ponsonby, wife of 1st Lord Ponsonby, and Mrs Staples, wife of the Rt Hon John Staples, of Lissan) of Richard, 3rd Viscount Molesworth, had, with other issue,

WILLIAM (1780-1850), at whose death Killymoon was sold;
Louisa, m H J Clements MP, of Ashfield Lodge.

James Stewart (Image: Ulster Museum)

James Stewart was Colonel of the Strabane Volunteers, 1780, Captain, Cookstown Cavalry, 1796, and served in the Newmills Yeomanry, 1802.

KILLYMOON CASTLE, Cookstown, County Tyrone, was built in 1802-3 for Colonel James Stewart MP, to the designs of John Nash.

Colonel Stewart's family had held the property since 1634.

He had obtained plans for a new house incorporating parts of the old one, which had been destroyed by fire ca 1800, from the Dublin architect, Robert Woodgate; however, in 1802 he was replaced by Nash.

Nash exhibited two drawings for his scheme at the Royal Academy in 1802.

Killymoon was Nash's first castle in Ireland, and reputedly cost £80,000 to build (about £7.4 million today).

It was described in the Irish Penny Journal of 1841 as "one of the most aristocratic residences in the province of Ulster", with state apartments consisting of "a breakfast-parlour, dining room, ante-room and drawing-room, all of which are of noble proportions and their woodwork of polished oak".

When sold in the 1880s the details of the sale referred to the demesne being almost entirely surrounded by a wall of 10 to 12 feet in height, the demesne being entered by four lodges and avenues, containing two stone quarries, a huge quarry and kiln, a gravel pit, labourers' cottages, and two ornamental cottages; a walled garden and kitchen gardens, with lawns and ornamental shrubberies; vineries, peach and fig houses; a conservatory, stove, mushroom and forcing houses, potting sheds, tool houses, two excellent gardeners' dwelling houses, and an ice house.

This park was clearly approved of by Sir Joseph Paxton, who wrote:

I have visited most of the celebrated country seats in the Kingdom and a very large number on the continent, and I have never seen one - for the extent of it - more compact, more perfect in itself, or where the highest natural beauties have been more aided by refined taste and judgment, than Killymoon.

This demesne was, in 1922, nevertheless, decimated and sold off in lots, mostly for its timber.

Part of it is now used as a golf course.

The gate lodges and the two gardeners' houses no longer stand; the conservatory is ruinous; though substantial 18th century outbuildings, for farm use, and an 18th century saw mill remain intact, close to the castle.

Colonel James Stewart was an absentee client for Nash and much of the supervision of the new castle fell to his wife.

She is known, through surviving correspondence, to have been discussing the design of two cottages with Nash as late as 1805.

For his part, Colonel Stewart is notorious for having 'lost' his new castle in a night's gambling, but the next day the winner, the Prince Regent (later GEORGE IV), told him he could keep his "little cabin" in Ireland.

In 1850 the property was sold, following the decease of William Stewart, who was a bachelor, and was bought by the Moutray family.

The present owner's family bought it at the break-up of the estate in 1922.

*****

TODAY'S CASTLE has a romantic silhouette in a splendid location above the Ballinderry River with a back-drop of sweeping woodland and parkland.

The principal front is dominated by an almost central battlemented, machicolated round tower and turret; at one end, an octagonal tower with similar features; and at the other end the profile of the square tower in the adjoining front, the base of which is arched to form a porte-cochére.

The latter tower has slender, octagonal corner turrets with cupolas.

The windows are pointed, grouped together under segmental hood mouldings, which Nash and his ilk regarded as being Saxon.

There is good interior planning with square, circular and octagonal rooms fitted together.

The hall has a double staircase and is lit by a Gothic lantern on a plaster, fan-vaulted ceiling.

The Library is in the form of a Gothic chapel, with stained-glass windows.

Extensive stables, out-houses and labourers cottages were built on the demesne, and on completion of the residential quarters Colonel Stewart had the 585 acres of the Killymoon demesne enclosed by a wall 10 to 12 feet high.

Entrance to the demesne was by way of four stone lodges and avenues at various points along the boundary wall.

The Killymoon estate remained the property of the Stewart family for six generations; however, their extravagant lifestyle caused the Stewart family to fall on hard times, especially during the years of the Irish famine.

The Killymoon estate was sold in 1852 for £100,000.

In 1857, the castle had again been sold to the Cooper family; and, in 1865, Colonel Bolton, an English gentleman, purchased the castle.

A mere ten years later, Mervyn Stuart Thomas Moutray JP,  became the owner of Killymoon Castle until 1916, when Gerald Macura bought the castle and town of Cookstown for almost £100,000.

By 1918, Macura was also in financial difficulties and was compelled to sell off his assets.

Hence, in 1922, John Coulter bought the castle and grounds for the merely £100.

Today the castle remains the home of the Coulter family.

In addition, situated on what was previously some of the castle’s estate lands, is an 18-hole golf course.

Shortly before embarking on his long parliamentary career, the young James Stewart did the Grand Tour in Europe. A splendid portrait of him (now in the Ulster Museum) was painted in Italy some time in 1767 by Pompeo Batoni.

Stewart succeeded his father as one of the MPs for County Tyrone in 1768, retaining the seat continuously and without a contest for the next thirty-two years in Dublin and a further twelve after 1800 at Westminster. 

The Stewart of Killymoon Papers are held at the Public Record Office of NI.

From Killymoon Castle there are views across the parkland, where few trees remain.

The grounds were possibly designed by W S Gilpin for the present house.

Grass terraces to the south of the house descend to the river and are enlivened by yew trees.

Rowan quotes Paxton,

"I have visited most of the celebrated country seats in the kingdom and a very large number on the continent, and I have never seen one – for the extent of it - more compact, more perfect in itself, or where the highest natural beauties have been more aided by refined taste and judgement, than Killymoon."

Unfortunately the demesne is not as it once was: Ornamental garden buildings are lost; the vistas are over bare farmland to distant woods.

Extensive walled gardens, with some glass, are partially kept up.

The gardener’s house is ruinous; 18th century offices that pre-date the present house are extensive; one of three gate lodges survives; the northern part of the estate is now a golf course.

First published in November, 2010. 

Lighthouse Island

Click on Image to Enlarge

LIGHTHOUSE ISLAND, the second of the three Copeland Islands, is located three miles off the mouth of Belfast Lough, and is an Area of Special Scientific Interest.

The island covers an area of 24 acres.

The common name of the islands came from the family of Copeland who settled here in the 12th century in the time of John de Courcy, but the island had earlier connections with the monks of Bangor Abbey till 1612, when it became the property of Sir James Hamilton.

When it was occupied by Bangor Abbey, it was known for a time as John's Island, after a miscreant monk who refused to leave when the monastery closed its island retreat some four centuries or more ago.

He spent the remainder of his existance there as a hermit.

In 1770, DAVID KER, OF PORTAVO, purchased the Copeland Islands.

Little is known of what happened on the island between 1884 and 1941.

It has been said that a woman lived there on her own, or in the early 20th century, surviving on rabbits which she shot.

Lighthouse Island, with Mew Island in Background. Photo Credit: PSNI Air Support

It is most likely that rabbits were only introduced after 1884, because the lighthouse keepers were doubtless diligent gardeners.

The walled garden, built between 1812-16 by two stone-masons, who carved their names on the wall of the cave on the east cliff.

It has also been claimed that, during the 19th century, the walled garden contained a very fine, canker-free orchard of apple and pear trees. 

The original lighthouse and dwelling were built from stones quarried on the island by convicts.

When the tower was built, an iron chafer was erected on top of the three-storied building and the beacon fire came into operation around 1711.

The lighthouse was 44 feet high, standing on an elevation of almost 70 feet. A new light came into operation in 1796.

In 1815 a new 52-foot lighthouse was built, close to the original one.

The work was commenced in 1813 and the new light, equipped with 27 oil burning lamps set in silvered reflectors, 131 feet above high water and visible for sixteen miles, was first exhibited on the 24th January, 1815.

At sunrise on the morning of the 1st November, 1884, the ancient wick lamps of the fixed light on Lighthouse Island were extinguished for the last time; and the same evening Mew Island light and fog signal were brought into operation.

LIGHTHOUSE ISLAND was inhabited in 1742 when a family lived there.

In 1811 there were two families, comprising about fifteen islanders, some employed in looking after the light.

There was a single family on the island in 1875.

They looked after the light and there was a small boat harbour which was probably in the area of the present landing place.

The lighthouse station had two keepers with their wives and families in residence. New houses were built to accommodate them.

For island lighthouses of the time, life on Lighthouse Island was most tolerable: the island was large enough to support goats, sheep and pigs, as well as a donkey.

The two families were virtually self-sufficient in milk, mutton, pork and bacon.

Their walled garden provided ample vegetables; and their poultry gave them chicken for Sunday lunch, and eggs to complement their bacon for breakfast.

A weekly boat from Donaghadee brought provisions and mail.

For many years the island was leased to Robert McConkey for shooting rabbits and sea-birds.

Before the sporting season started, stores were ferried out to the island in readiness for the sportsmen who came out weekly.

In the season there was the harvesting of the eggs by the commercial egg collectors for market on the mainland, and within memory these have been on sale in the relevant season of the year. 

The first recorded ornithological visit was made in 1939 by Douglas Deane.

He dug out a breeding burrow, complete with egg (now in the Ulster Museum), in order to prove that Manx Shearwaters bred on the island.

Another leading ornithologist, Arnold Bennington, brought out parties of enthusiasts after the 2nd World War, between 1947-53, to evaluate the island as a suitable site for an observatory.

His last group, in 1953, was a class of Workers Educational Association adult students. They decided to establish an observatory.

Thus began Copeland Bird Observatory, with a singular lack of formality.

The proprietor of Lighthouse Island, Captain Ker of Portavo, had agreed to let the island for a peppercorn rent of one shilling.

In 1967, he leased the island to the National Trust for 999 years, on the understanding that the observatory could continue as tenants as long as the organization existed.

The observatory's structure was set up swiftly: Three Heligoland traps were erected; accommodation was secured within the derelict lighthouse buildings; and the British Trust for Ornithology sanctioned accreditation in 1956.

The lighthouse keepers' former premises and storehouse now accommodate the Copeland Bird Observatory (CBO) volunteers; and there is a laboratory where migratory birds are captured for examination, ringing, weighing, recorded and then released all within a few minutes from capture to minimise distress.

This island is an important breeding site for Manx Shearwater and Eider.

The rabbits on the island are important to the breeding of the Manx Shearwater, as their grazing keeps a short sward that is desirable for the fledglings and their burrows provide nesting sites.

The island vegetation includes large areas of rank bracken, sea Campions, elder scrub and many more.

Lighthouse Island is now owned by the National Trust, though administered by volunteer wardens of the Copeland Bird Observatory, one of sixteen observatories throughout the British Isles, monitoring bird migration and sea-bird populations.

There is self-catering accommodation at very reasonable rates, in the form of male and female dormitories, with a few family rooms.

Bear in mind, though, that the observatory is not a guest-house, nor a bed & breakfast establishment!

Its prime role is as a bird observatory.

First published in September, 2012.

The Hamilton Baronetcy (1781)

JOHN HAMILTON, of Dullerton, County Tyrone, and jure uxoris of Manor Elieston (Donemana), married Sarah, daughter of Sir William Hamilton, of Manor Elieston, son of Sir Claud Hamilton, brother of James, 1st Earl of Abercorn, and son of Claud, 1st Lord Paisley, and was father of

JOHN HAMILTON, of Dunamanagh (Donemana), County Tyrone, had, with another daughter, wife of John Hamilton, of Hamilton's Grove, County Antrim, at least other three daughters and a son, viz.

WILLIAM HAMILTON (1708-62), of Dunamanagh, County Tyrone, High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1735, MP for Strabane, 1733-62, who married, in 1735, Catherine, daughter of the Rev Dr George Leslie, of Ballyconnell House, County Cavan, and had issue,

JOHN STUART HAMILTON (c1740-1802), High Sheriff of County Tyrone, 1764, MP for Strabane, 1763-97, who married Sarah, daughter of Frederick, 3rd Viscount Boyne.

Mr Hamilton was created a baronet in 1781, designated of Dunamanagh, County Tyrone.

Sir John was a member of the Dublin Society, 1769-76. His membership lapsed in 1777 but was renewed more than twenty years later in 1798. He was listed by the Society as a member in 1802-03, and deleted ca 1804.

It is thought that the following statement alludes to the 1st Baronet, Sir John Stuart Hamilton:

"When he was but nineteen he was unanimously elected one of the representatives in Parliament for Strabane, in which high and honourable station he behaved for upwards of thirty years with a conduct suitable to the great confidence reposed in him:"

"To his immortal honour he was one of those heroic patriots of Fabrician fortitude, who signalized themselves in so conspicuous a manner in the successful defence of the pass, which in 1753 was strenuously attempted to be forced, in order to overthrow the parliamentary constitution of this country; for which they were distinguished from their opponents by their wearing gold medals in memory of that glorious epoch:"

"And so sensible were his constituents of his singular merit and invariable principles in favour of his country, that at the late general election they unanimously re-elected him to represent them in parliament; the goodness and benevolence of his heart endeared him to all, and render his death universally lamented." 

"He is succeeded in his estate by John Hamilton, Esq., his eldest son and heir."

SIR JOHN CHARLES HAMILTON, 2nd Baronet, died in 1818, when the baronetcy expired. 

First published in January, 2011