Stranmillis House

In 1603, Sir Arthur Chichester was granted expansive lands in Ulster, including all of the County Antrim side of the River Lagan from Carrickfergus to Dunmurry and the site of the future city of Belfast.

The date of the grant marks the date of the foundation of the town.

Sir Arthur leased his Stranmillis lands in 1606 for 61 years to his associate Sir Moyses Hill (ancestor of the Marquesses of Downshire), who built a plantation castle.

This castle was the predecessor of Stranmillis House and was probably built to control a Lagan crossing.

The ford as indicated on the Donegall estate map of 1770 was situated just below the tidal limit and provided a crossing point for carts.

The Hills moved before their lease expired, and the property reverted to the Donegall family (to become Lady Donegall's deer-park). 

Richard Dobbs, writing in 1683, described the deer-park thus:

"From Lambeg the way leads direct to Belfast, which is all along for the most part furnished with houses, little orchards and gardens and on the right hand the Countess of Donegall hath a very fine Park well stored with venison and in it a Horse Course of Two Miles, and may be called an English Road."

A Donegall family document of 1692 more precisely defines the deer park, ..."100 acres were then enclosed in a Deer Park, and called Stranmellis Park."

It is probable that this estate included all of the area now enclosed by the Stranmillis and Malone Roads and that the horse course followed its perimeter, possibly formed by the roads themselves.

On the Donegall estate map of 1770 the area is referred to as the course lands, almost exactly 100 acres enclosed by about two miles of road.

From 1770 most of the demesne was put up for lease after being divided into small parcels of land, the size and shape of the farms perhaps relating to the hilly topography of the area. 

An area of 40 acres in the southern part of the former deer-park was leased by prominent merchants, the Black family, who built a summer residence, the predecessor of the present Victorian Stranmillis House.

They later acquired the freehold and, in 1857, sold the property to Thomas Batt, a director of the Ulster Bank who, within a year, rebuilt Stranmillis House in the Gothic-Revival style. 

Batt had a town-house at 4 Donegall Place in Belfast.

He was from one of Belfast’s most prominent business families, founders of the Belfast bank and owners of Purdysburn House (later a hospital).

They also gave their name to Batt’s Mountain in the Mournes.

South Belfast, including Stranmillis, developed rapidly in the latter half of the 19th Century and especially during the 1870s.

However, building on the eastern slopes of the Malone Ridge was restricted by land ownership and hampered by stream erosion so that the Stranmillis Road itself remained little more than a country lane.

Cart traffic moving south took the Malone Road to avoid Stranmillis hill and it was not until 1882 that the city's tram line was extended to Stranmillis.

Some development of note did take place, however, with the construction in 1863 of the fine terrace at Mount Pleasant adjoining Summer Hill, itself built a few years earlier around 1854-56. 

The arrival of the tram line also saw the construction of the impressive Chilworth terrace in 1893-4 and the Kinahan Mansions followed around 1901.

The Victorian Stranmillis House was built for Thomas Batt by Lanyon, Lynn & Lanyon.

Originally it had an open belfry and ogee pyramidal roof on the corner tower, but these features were removed.

The original entrance porch and low wing to the north have been replaced by a large extension in simplified Elizabethan style in 1924 after the house became part of Stranmillis (University) College.

About 46 acres of undulating grounds are walled in.

The demesne originated in the early 17th century, though the present house dates from ca 1855.

It replaced an earlier house of ca 1801 and much of the present planting is associated with these two buildings.

The site became a college in 1922 and was subsequently adapted.

The well developed and attractively planted ornamental grounds enhance the many buildings that now occupy the site, many of which are listed - the main building of 1928-30; two gate lodges of 1933 and 1940s. 

There is some interesting plant material amongst the maintained landscape.

There are fine mature shelter belt and woodland trees, including an impressive turkey oak and a sycamore avenue now hidden in woodland.

First published in January, 2011.

Dunbrody Park

THE BARONS TEMPLEMORE WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY WEXFORD, WITH 11,327 ACRES

LORD SPENCER STANLEY CHICHESTER (1775-1819), of Dunbrody Park, County Wexford, MP for Carrickfergus, 1802-7, second surviving son of Arthur, 1st Marquess of Donegall, wedded, in 1795, the Lady Harriet Stewart, a younger daughter of John, 7th Earl of Galloway KT, and had issue,

ARTHUR, of whom hereafter;
George, d 1829;
Anne;
Elizabeth, m William, 1st Baron Bateman.

His lordship was succeeded by his elder son,

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL ARTHUR CHICHESTER MP (1797-1837), of Dunbrody Park, and of 38 Portman Square, London, MP for Milborne Port, 1826-30, County Wexford, 1830-1.

Colonel Chichester was raised to the peerage, in 1831, in the dignity of BARON TEMPLEMORE, of Templemore, County Donegal.

He wedded, in 1820, the Lady Augusta Paget, fourth daughter of Henry, 1st Marquess of Anglesey, KG, and had issue,

HENRY SPENCER, his heir;
Augustus George Charles;
Frederick Arthur Henry;
Adolphus William;
Francis Algernon James;
another son, b 1833;
Caroline Georgiana; Augusta.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

HENRY SPENCER, 2nd Baron,

• Harry Spencer Chichester, 2nd Baron (1821–1906)
• Arthur Henry Chichester, 3rd Baron (1854–1924)
• Arthur Claud Spencer Chichester, 4th Baron (1880–1953)
• Dermot Richard Claud Chichester, 5th Baron (1916–2007) (succeeded as 7th Marquess of Donegall in 1975).

(ARTHUR) PATRICK, is the 8th and present Marquess of Donegall and 6th Baron Templemore.

Lord Donegall lives with his family within the grounds of Dunbrody Park.

DUNBRODY HOUSE, near Arthurstown, County Wexford, is described by Mark Bence-Jones as

a pleasant, comfortable, unassuming house of ca 1860 which from its appearance might be a 20th century house of vaguely Queen Anne flavour.

Dunbrody Park was acquired by the Chichester family through marriage of the 2nd Earl of Donegall to Jane, daughter and heiress of John Itchingham, of Dunbrody Park, ca 1660.

The Victorian mansion house comprises two storeys, with a five-bay centre.

The middle bay breaks forward.

There is a three-sided, single storey central bow, and two-bay projecting ends.

Dunbrody House has been a country house hotel since 2001.

Former town residence  ~ 11 Upper Grosvenor Street, London.

First published in November, 2012; revised in 2014. Templemore arms courtesy of European Heraldry.

Duke's Coronet

The coronet of a duke is a golden circlet with eight gold strawberry leaves around it (pointing upwards).

The coronet itself is chased as if in the form of jewels (like a royal crown) but is not actually jewelled.

It has a crimson cap (lined ermine) in real life and a purple one in heraldic representation.

There is a gold-threaded tassel on top.

The number of strawberry leaves and absence of pearls is what distinguishes a ducal coronet from those of other degrees of the peerage.

The ducal coronet has undergone several modifications in form since it was first introduced in 1337.

As now worn, it has eight golden leaves of a conventional type - the "strawberry leaves" so called - set erect upon a circlet of gold, and having their stalks so connected as to form a wreath.

Of late years this coronet has enclosed a cap of rich crimson velvet surmounted by a golden tassel and lined and "guarded" with ermine.

 

A smaller version, above, was worn by duchesses.

Peeresses' coronets sit on top of the head, rather than around it.

Non-royal dukes represent the highest degree in the hereditary peerage.

First published in April, 2010.

Ballinahown Court

THE ENNIS BARONETS WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY WESTMEATH, WITH 8,774 ACRES

The family of ENNIS, originally from County Down, became established in County Meath a considerable time since.

ANDREW ENNIS, of Roebuck, County Dublin, was engaged extensively in commercial pursuits and realized a very large fortune.

Mr Ennis purchased, in 1800, the Griffinstown estate, County Westmeath, and subsequently made considerable additions to his landed property by the acquisition of portions of the Rochfort and Malone estates, including Ballinahown, the property of the Malones.

Ballinahown Court was purchased in 1829 for £26,000 (about £2.3 million in 2023).

He married Mary, daughter of Matthew McManus, and had issue,

JOHN, his heir;
Ellen; Marianne; Jane; Alicia.

Mr Ennis died in 1834, and was succeeded by his son,

JOHN ENNIS DL (1809-78), of Ballinahown Court, High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1837, Dublin, 1839, Director, Bank of Ireland, MP for Athlone, 1857-65, who married, in 1833, Anna Maria, eldest daughter of David Henry, of the city of Dublin (and sister of Sir Thomas Henry, of London), and had issue,

JOHN JAMES, his heir;
Mary; Josephine; Elizabeth.

Mr Ennis was created a baronet in 1866, designated of Ballinahown Court, County Westmeath.

He was succeeded by his only son,

SIR JOHN JAMES ENNIS JP DL, 2nd Baronet (1842-84), of Ballinahown Court, High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1866, MP for Athlone, 1868-80.

The baronetcy expired in 1884 following the 2nd Baronet's decease.

BALLINAHOWN COURT, near Athlone, County Westmeath, was built in 1746 for Edmond Malone MP.

It has three storeys over a basement; a three-bay front; and tripartite doorway with pediment and fanlight.

The pediment extends over the door and side-lights and is carried on pilasters.

There is a parapet roof.

A single-storey wing is at one side.

Ballinahown was sold about 1830 to Andrew Ennis.

It was subsequently inherited by the family of The O'Donoghue of the Glens, by whom it was sold ca 1965 to Mr Basil Crofts-Greene, who re-sold the house ca 1976.

An accomplished and very well-proportioned mid-18th century country house, built in a sophisticated classical style, which retains it early form, fabric and character. 

This building is, perhaps, the most elegant example of a country house the south of County Westmeath, certainly of its date, and must have been designed by an architect of some note, perhaps even by Richard Castle (died 1751) as suggested by some sources. 

This grand house is unusual in that it is constructed of brick, a very rare building material in Westmeath at the time of construction. 

The proximity of this house to the River Shannon (transport) probably accounts for its use here at Ballinahown Court. 

The juxtaposition between the warm red brick and the extensive grey ashlar limestone detailing creates an interesting and visually appealing textural and visual contrast. 

The fine pedimented Tuscan door-case is a noteworthy feature of artistic merit and this door-case dominates the entrance façade. 

This fine house was originally built for Edmond Malone (lawyer and later MP for Granard) and his wife Ruth Malone. 

It later passed into the ownership of the Ennis Family (Andrew Ennis bought the house in 1828), who much improved the estate during the mid-to-late nineteenth-century and were probably responsible for the construction of the single-storey wing to the south-west side, which blends in seamlessly with the mid-eighteenth century fabric. 

It later passed into the ownership of John Ennis, who was elected MP for Athlone in 1857, and subsequently to his son, John James Ennis, who was elected MP for Athlone in 1868.

The present house is built on the site of an earlier castle, the home of a branch of the Malone Family since the middle ages, of which no extant remains are readily visible.

The house forms the centrepiece of an interesting group of related structures and is an important element of the architectural heritage of Westmeath and of the history of the Ballinahown local area. 

Former town residences ~ 36 Curzon Street, London; Merrion Square, Dublin.

First published in July, 2013.   Ennis arms courtesy of the NLI.

The Ward Baronetcy

WE FIND in the roll of Battle Abbey that the family of WARD attended WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR into England, where, after some centuries, it appeared in three respectable branches; of which the Wards of Capesthorne, Cheshire. For several centuries, having possessed many extensive lordships, descended the family of WARD, of Bangor, in the person of

BERNARD WARD, who married a daughter of the ancient family of Leigh, of High Leigh, in Cheshire, and settled in Ulster about 1570.

This Bernard acquired the lands known as Carrickshannagh from Gerald, 11th Earl of Kildare, and renamed it CASTLE WARD.

His son and heir,

NICHOLAS WARD, wedded, before 1584, Joan, daughter of Ralph Leycester, of Toft Hall, Cheshire, and had issue,

Bernard, ancestor of the VISCOUNT BANGOR;
ROBERT, of whom we treat;
Thomas, colonel in the army; died at the battle of Worcester;
Nicholas.

Mr Ward's second son,

ROBERT WARD (1610-91), High Sheriff of County Down, 1661 and 1667, espoused, before 1661, Mary, daughter of the Most Rev Dr Henry Leslie, Lord Bishop of Meath.

Mr Ward received the honour of knighthood, 1670, and was created a baronet, in 1682, designated of Killough, County Down, for his loyal service to CHARLES II.

Sir Robert survived his only son, CHARLES, who left no issue by his wife Catherine, a daughter of Sir John Temple.

The baronetcy expired in 1691.

Old Castle Ward

THE VILLAGE of Killough, County Down, was established by Michael Ward, of Castle Ward, father of the 1st Viscount Bangor and a Justice of the King's Bench.

From Norman times the Russell family, who were Roman Catholics, had held the Manor of Killough, but they had been deprived of it after the uprising of 1641. 

Sir Robert Ward was granted the manor of Killough in 1672.

At Ballysallagh, a townland 2½ miles south-east of Downpatrick, 401 acres of land owned by the Earl of Ardglass, in 1669, were leased to Sir Robert.

St John's Point, a townland on southern most tip in Lecale district, northern-most point of Dundrum Bay, 290 acres, site of an ancient holy well & ancient church & graveyard (St John's) which was attached to Inch Abbey, was acquired by Sir Robert in 1670 and subsequently sold to James Cummins. 

First published in February, 2011.

Old Shane's Castle

Etching & engraving of Shane's Castle ca 1780.  Click to enlarge (British Museum)

SHANE'S CASTLE, the beautifully wooded demesne of the Lord O'Neill, not only indicates an ancient castle, though also the magnificent estate of the O'Neills which stands on the north shore of Lough Neagh, in County Antrim.

The Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland, dated 1846, provides us with a flavour of the demesne in the early Victorian era:-

THE DEMESNE of the 1st Earl O'Neill, in the parish of Drummaul, barony of Upper Toome, 2¼ miles west of Antrim, County Antrim.

It extends two miles along the foot or north end of Lough Neagh, and two miles northward from lough Neagh to Randalstown; and it is bisected from north to south by the River Maine.

It is freely accessible to strangers; and, in its great extent of both old and young plantations, its views of the great monarch-lake of the three kingdoms, its rich and well-kept gardens, its noble esplanade and fine conservatory, the ruins of its picturesque castellated mansion, and its profuse historical associations with the name of O'Neill.

It presents an absolute museum of interest to at once the artist, the antiquary, and the lover of rural scenery.

The princely pile of Shane's Castle, which had been for centuries the residence of the noble house of O'Neill, rose proudly from the shore of Lough Neagh, and was in fine keeping with the demesne as one of the most magnificent in the kingdom, but was burnt in 1816 by an accidental fire.

A very large party were on a visit to Lord O'Neill at the time when the fire broke out; but all their exertions and all those of the stated guests and of the neighbouring tenantry were unavailing to arrest the progress of the flames.

A superb addition to the original building was in course of erection; and this, as well as the inhabited building, was irretrievably destroyed.

Old Shane's Castle: The Battery, Vaulted Terrace and Conservatory

A large fortified esplanade, furnished with cannon, and a grand conservatory of rare and foreign plants, alone escaped without injury.

An extensive library and many valuable paintings were wholly consumed.

"From the ruins which remain," remarked a writer at the time, "it is evident that the castle was a fine, spacious building. The vaults, which are still entire, and extend to the very edge of the lake, merit the particular notice of the curious traveller, both from their spaciousness and rather extraordinary construction."

"Several towers and turrets are still standing ... a number of cannons are still mounted on the fort, which is boldly situated."

"Some of the buildings which formed a part of the out-offices have been fitted up by the noble proprietor as a temporary residence."

"We have heard with pleasure that it is his lordship's intention to erect a castle, if not the ruins of the old one, on some spot in the immediate vicinity."

The original 17th century castle took its name from Shane McBrian O'Neill, who was permitted to retain 120,000 acres of his lands following the Plantation of Ulster.

In 1607, JAMES I granted the original castle at Edenduffcarrick to Shane, whose family had possessed it at various times previously.

The Castle is believed to be named after that gentleman.

The most ancient section of the present ruins was built at the time of the Plantation of Ulster and, alas, that part was mostly destroyed after the catastrophic fire of 1816.

The estate had decreased in extent, however, to 64,163 acres by about 1870, making Lord O'Neill the largest landowner in County Antrim at that time.

This ancient building grew into a magnificent castellated mansion comprising three storeys over a basement, with a battlemented parapet, curved bows and projecting end bays.

Its main elevation was at right-angles to the lough shore.

A village existed on the lough shore adjacent to the castle; it was removed, however, shortly before 1780.

A taste of the splendour and opulence at Shane's Castle was provided by the Rev Daniel Beaufort, who was a house guest in 1787:-

"Drawing-room adorned with magnificent mirrors, off breakfast-room is rotunda coffee-room, where in recesses are great quantities of china, a cistern with a cock and water, a boiler with another, all apparently for making breakfast; a letter box and round table with four sets of pen and ink let in for everybody to write." 

"Conservatory joins house, fine apartment along lough, at end alcove for meals, from it a way to h & c bathing apartments with painted windows." 

"On other side of house, pretty and large theatre and magnificent ballroom 60 x 30, all of wood and canvass painted, and so sent ready-made from London."

Charles, 1st (and last) Earl O'Neill, succeeded his father, the 1st Viscount O'Neill, in 1798, and about a decade later consulted the pre-eminent architect, John Nash, regarding further expansion of Shane's Castle in the Gothic castellated style.

The main purpose, however, was to give the building a southern aspect.

The terrace and conservatory had been completed by 1816, when the main block of the house was completely gutted by fire (caused by a jackdaw's nest catching light in an unused chimney).

Following the fire, the 1st Earl was so dispirited that he abandoned his plans for the castle and built a small residence adjoining the stables.

First published in July, 2018.

D'Arcy of Dunmoe

THE D'ARCY-IRVINES OWNED 6,187 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY FERMANAGH

NORMAN DE ARECI, who held thirty-three Lordships in Lincolnshire at the date of the Domesday Book, was a benefactor of St Mary's Abbey, York. His son, ROBERT D'ARCY, of Nocton, Lincolnshire, was founder of the Priory there.

JOHN D'ARCY, 1ST BARON D'ARCY DE KNAYTH (c1290-1347), governed Ireland as Judiciar, 1323-7, 1328-31, and 1332-37.

He fought against Scotland on many occasions, with distinction especially at the battle of Halidon Hill (1333).

He was Constable of the Tower of London during the preparations for the war with France (1346), and was one of the principal bannerets at Crećy, flying the banner of the D'Arcys of Nocton.

He left the siege of Calais to take charge of David Bruce, King of Scots.

John D'Arcy married firstly, Emmeline, daughter and heir of Walter Heron, and by her had issue,

JOHN, whose heirs have been Barons D'Arcy de Knayth.

He wedded secondly, in 1329, Joan, widow of Thomas FitzGerald, Earl of Kildare, daughter of Richard de Burgh, Earl of Ulster, by whom he had further issue (with three sons, who all dsp),

WILLIAM, of whom we treat;

Elizabeth, m James Butler, Earl of Ormonde.

Lord D'Arcy's son,

SIR WILLIAM D'ARCY, was present at Crećy, and was the founder of the house of D'ARCY OF PLATTEN, County Meath.

He inherited lands granted by EDWARD III to his father and mother and to their heirs male for the good services rendered by his father to EDWARD II.

Hyde Park, County Westmeath, is a part of the land comprised in the grant.

He was born at Maynooth, 1330; espoused Catherine, daughter of Robert FitzGerald, of Allen, County Kildare, and had issue,

SIR JOHN D'ARCY, of Platten, a minor and heir to his grandmother in the Manor of Martyr, County Kildare, 1362.

He was Sheriff of Meath, 1404 and 1415, and married Jane Pettit, by whom he had issue,

WILLIAM D'ARCY, of Platten, who wedded Anne Barnewall, of Crickstown, County Westmeath, and by her had issue,

JOHN D'ARCY, of Platten, who espoused Margaret Fleming, daughter of Lord Slane, by whom he had issue,

WILLIAM, of whom presently;

Nicholas.

The elder son,

SIR WILLIAM D'ARCY, of Platten, who was living in 1477, married Isabel (or Elizabeth), daughter of Christopher Plunkett, of Killeen, and had issue,

SIR WILLIAM D'ARCY, of Platten, Vice-Treasurer of Ireland, seized of the manors of Rathwire and Lynn, County Westmeath; who wedded Margaret, daughter of Nicholas St Lawrence, Baron Howth, and died in 1540, having had issue,

GEORGE D'ARCY, of Platten, who married Jane, daughter and heir of Tuite McRiccard , of Sonna, and had issue,

William, of Platten;

THOMAS, of whom we treat.

The younger son,

THOMAS D'ARCY, of Dunmoe, Navan, County Meath, wedded Margaret, daughter of Richard Kiltole, and was father of JOHN D'ARCY, of Dunmoe, whose son and heir, WILLIAM D'ARCY, of Dunmoe, espoused Margaret Brandon, niece of Thomas Brandon, of Dundalk, THOMAS D'ARCY, of Dunmoe, aged 28 in 1630.

This Thomas D'Arcy's lineal descendant,

JOHN D'ARCY, of Dunmoe, married, in 1727, Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Thomas Judge, of Grange Beg, County Westmeath, and had issue,

JUDGE, of whom we treat;

James, of Hyde Park; great-grandfather of Most Rev C D'Arcy;

The elder son,

JUDGE D'ARCY, of Dunmoe and Grange Beg, died in 1766, leaving by Elizabeth Nugent his wife, an only daughter and heiress,

D'Arcy arms at Necarne Castle, Irvinestown, Co Fermanagh

ELIZA or ELIZABETH, who married, in 1788, Major Gorges Marcus Irvine, of Castle Irvine, County Fermanagh, by whom she had issue, five sons and five daughters.