Dunmurry

EDITED EXTRACTS FROM THE TOPOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY OF IRELAND, 1837

DUNMURRY, parish of Drumbeg, barony of Upper Belfast, County Antrim, on the river Glenwater, and road from Belfast to Lisburn, nearly midway between these two towns.

Dunmurry ca 1830 (Image: historic OS map)

This place, which takes its name from two Danish forts, or raths, in its immediate vicinity, was formerly the parish of Ballygosh, which soon after the Reformation was annexed to that of Drumbeg.

Its ancient name has been superseded by that of the village which has been erected, and which is beautifully situated in a sequestered and fertile vale, and remarkably neat.

Dunmurry (Image: W A Green/NMNI)

On the Glenwater are two bridges, one at the village, an ancient structure, and the other, over which the Dublin road passes, a noble pile of two arches of freestone, quarried on the spot.

The surrounding hills being richly planted add greatly to the beauty of the scenery, which is also embellished with several handsome seats, of which the principal are SEYMOUR HILL;

Woodbourne (Image: eBay)

 WOODBOURNE; Dunmurry House [demolished]; Suffolk [demolished]; Glenville; and Collin House [demolished].

Dunmurry (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

In the village are some extensive flour mills, worked partly by water and partly by steam, and ttached to them are large stores for grain and malt kilns.

THE church of Ballygosh has long since disappeared, and the rectorial tithes of the two townlands which constituted the parish were granted by JAMES I to Sir Arthur Chichester, and the vicarial tithes to the incumbent of Drumbeg.

There is a place of worship for Presbyterians, formerly in connection with the General, but now with the Remonstrant, Synod of Ulster.

On Collin mountain, to the north-west of the village, is a very conspicuous cairn of considerable extent; it consists of small stones piled together in a conical form, and is now almost covered with green sward.

First Dunmurry Presbyterian Church (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

FIRST DUNMURRY PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH,  (described as "Meeting-house" on the historic map above) is almost certainly the oldest building in Dunmurry.

Circa 1906 (Image: Ebay)

The congregation of Dunmurry's first Presbyterian church was established in 1676, and a meeting-house was erected on a nearby site, of which no trace remains.

A second place of worship was built in 1714, and a date stone at the back of the building, inscribed with “Anno Christi, 1714, R Georgy RJ,” could be from the original meeting house.

The mural plaque over the left entrance door declares that it was built in 1719, presumed to be a painter's error, given that the present building was erected in 1779.

The architect of the present church is uncertain, though it's thought to have been Roger Mulholland, architect of First Presbyterian Church, Rosemary Street, Belfast, in 1783.

Rev James Stouppe, Minister from 1772-80 (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

A stained-glass window in the front elevation, in memory of John McCance JP (1816-63) and his brother Henry McCance JP DL (1829-1900), was erected in 1900.

McCance memorial window

First published in July, 2022.

Scarvagh House

THE REILLYS OWNED 920 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY DOWN

This branch of the ancient Milesian house of REILLY, PRINCES OF EAST BREFFNY, discontinued the prefix 'O'.

TURLOGH O'REILLY, youngest son of Edmund O'Reilly, of Kilnacroft, Prince of East Breffny, had two children,

BRIAN;
John.

The elder son,

BRIAN O'REILLY, had two sons, viz.

JOHN, of Belfast;
Miles, an army captain.

The former was father of

MILES O'REILLY (1661-1735), of Lurgan, County Armagh, who wedded Jane Ackens, and had issue,

John, dsp;
James, dsp;
Charles;
Marlow;
JOHN, of whom hereafter.

Mr Reilly was succeeded by his youngest son,

JOHN REILLY, of Scarvagh, County Down, who espoused, in 1738, Lucy, daughter of Francis Savage, of Ardkeen, County Down, and was father of

JOHN REILLY (1745-1804), of Scarvagh, Chief Commissioner of Public Accounts, MP for Blessington, 1779-1800, High Sheriff of County Down, 1776, County Armagh, 1786, who married, in 1773, Jane, daughter and co-heir of Colonel William Lushington, of Sittingbourne, Kent, and had issue,

JOHN LUSHINGTON, his heir;
William Edmond;
James miles;
Jane Hester; Amelia; Elizabeth.

John Reilly MP (Image: Ulster Museum)

Mr Reilly was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN LUSHINGTON REILLY (1775-1840), of Scarvagh, High Sheriff of County Down, 1810, who wedded, in 1807, Louisa, second daughter of Gustavus Handcock Temple, of Watertown, County Westmeath, and had issue,

JOHN TEMPLE, his heir;
Gustavus Handcock, an army officer, 1813-41;
Robert Lushington, captain, East India Company;
William Charles, 1819-45;
Charles Myles Townsend;
Isabella Elizabeth; Jane Lushington; Louisa Mary; Gertrude Harriet;
Mary Amelia; Frances Lucy; Charlotte Moore.

Mr Reilly was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN TEMPLE REILLY JP DL (1812-1903), of Scarvagh, High Sheriff of County Down, 1845, who wedded, in 1865, Elizabeth, daughter of James O'Hara, of Lenaboy, County Galway, by his wife Anne, daughter of the Most Rev and Hon Power le Poer Trench, Lord Archbishop of Tuam, and had issue,

John Temple Miles, 1867-68;
GUSTAVUS MILES O'HARA;
John Temple James, died in infancy;
Anne Elizabeth.

GUSTAVUS MILES O'HARA REILLY, of Scarvagh House, 1869-1909.

SCARVAGH HOUSE, Scarva, County Down, was built in the early to mid-18th century and has undergone several phases of addition and renovation since that time.

The House is associated with the Reilly family, founders of Scarva village and original hosts of the annual Scarva "Sham Fight", commemorating the battle of the Boyne.

It comprises two storeys with two-storey wings extending forwards, thus forming a three-sided entrance court.

The present house is thought to have been built ca 1717 by Myles Reilly, originally intended as offices (a house was to be erected in front).

The house was altered in the mid-19th century by John Temple Reilly.

The elevations are plain, excepting a two-storey Jacobean-style porch with a curvilinear gable in the centre range, flanked by two oriels and dormer gables.

The wings terminate with square, battlemented towers.

The porch is of golden stone; the remainder of the house rendered.

The entrance gates and gate lodge at the Scarva end of the property were added between 1834-60, together with a long entrance driveway leading to the house.

*****

A local legend states that, in recognition of his services to the Williamite army in the 1690s, Reilly was given as much land as he could walk and plant with acorns in a day.

Harris wrote in 1744,

North-west of Loughbrickland about two miles is a house and good improvements of Mr John Reilly, standing pleasantly on a rising ground near the new canal and Scarvagh Bridge...Mr Reilly has a view of forming a village near this bridge where coal-yards and store houses are preparing and for this end has obtained a patent for fairs and markets.

There is a salt-works carried on in partnership between Mr Reilly, Mr Cherry and Mr Steers of Liverpool, the latter of whom has the salt rock on his own land and sends the same by water carriage to Scarvagh.

Scarva village had been established by the Reillys by 1746.

John Lushington Reilly is thought to have been responsible for much of the present appearance of Scarvagh House.

The Archaeological Survey of County Down, which carries a plan of additions and alterations to Scarvagh House, suggests that Lushington Reilly built two double-height wings onto the original main block in the early nineteenth century forming a forecourt to the original house.

Interior alterations in a Gothic-Revival style were carried out within the main block and an extension was added to the north west. Between 1834-60, the south facade of the main block was remodelled in a Jacobean style and internal decoration in contemporary style took place.

Dimensions are given for the house, including the new porch, four two-storey outbuildings, one single-storey outbuilding and gate houses.

The 1901 census lists the occupant as

John Temple Reilly JP, DL, who lives with his Galway wife, his daughter, sister, niece and three servants, a cook, a housemaid and a kitchen maid. The house has sixteen rooms, twenty outbuildings and is of the first class.

Subsequent occupiers were Sir John Tuthing [sic], 1905; and Henry Thomson MP, 1906.

In 1911, Mr Thomson was living in the house with his wife, a nurse and three servants.

Henry Thomson died in 1916 while still resident at Scarvagh House, and the house was taken over by a relative, possibly a son, Henry B Thomson, in 1926.

Scarvagh House was acquired by Alfred Buller before the 2nd World War, and Mr Buller was happy to continue opening the grounds each year for the Sham Fight.

William Buller, of Scarva, has been a well-known racing driver.

The most recent historic map dating from 1960s/70s shows that numerous outbuildings have been added to the site in the vicinity of the main house.

Other recent work has included the refurbishment of the east and west wings for rental purposes.

A strong tradition exists that WILLIAM III camped under a tree that later became enclosed by Scarva demesne, on his way to the Boyne in 1659; and due, in part, to this association, Scarva demesne has become the scene of the annual Sham Fight, a mock reconstruction of the battle of the Boyne that takes place on the 13th July every year.

The Sham Fight forms the centrepiece of a Royal Black Preceptory parade, when the villagers of Scarva are joined by tens of thousands of visitors from Ulster and elsewhere.

The mock battle, played out over 30 minutes, ends when the green standard of JAMES II is cornered and lowered by the red-shirted Williamite soldiers.

*****

THE HOUSE lies on a south-facing ridge, with excellent views to Lough Shark and distant hills beyond.

The demesne contains mature avenue, parkland and woodland trees.

There are well-maintained ornamental gardens at the house.

The walled garden was latterly an orchard but is no longer cultivated.

There are grand gate pillars at the village entrance, and a lodge built ca 1870 at the North Gate.

First published in July, 2014.

General Howe

HENRY HOWE, living during the reign of HENRY VIII, left a son,

JOHN HOWE, of Huntspill, Somerset, who died in 1574, and was succeeded by his son,

JOHN HOWE (1556-91), MP for Yarmouth, 1589, who married Jane, daughter of Nicholas Grubham, of Bishop's Lydeard, Somerset, and sister of Sir Richard Grubham, of Great Wishford, in Wiltshire, and with other issue, had

JOHN, of whom presently;
George, ancestor of the Howe Baronets, of Cold Barwick.

The eldest son,

SIR JOHN HOWE, obtained the manor of Compton, Gloucestershire, and other estates, by gift of his uncle, Sir Richard Grobham, and was created a Baronet, in 1660, designated of Cold Barwick, Wiltshire.

Sir John wedded Bridget, daughter of Thomas Rich, of North Cerney, Gloucestershire, one of the Masters in Chancery, and had issue,

Richard Grobham, who succeeded to his father's title and estates;
JOHN GROBHAM, of whom we treat;
Thomas.

The younger son,

JOHN GROBHAM HOWE (1625-79), of Langar Hall, Nottinghamshire, MP for Gloucestershire, 1659-79, obtained the manor of Langar by marrying the Lady Annabella Scrope, daughter and co-heir of Emmanuel, 1st Earl of Sunderland, and had issue,

SCROPE, his heir;
John Grobham;
Charles;
Emanuel Scrope;
Elizabeth; Bridget; another son and two other daughters.

The eldest son,

SIR SCROPE HOWE (1648-1713), Knight, MP for Nottinghamshire, 1673-81 and 1689-91, espoused firstly, in 1672, the Lady Anne Manners, sixth daughter of John, 8th Earl of Rutland, and had issue,

John Scrope, died young;
Annabella; Margaret.

He married secondly, in 1698, Juliana, daughter of William, 3rd Baron Alington, by which lady he had further issue,

EMANUEL SCROPE, his successor;
Mary; Judith; Anne.

Sir Scrope was elevated to the peerage, in 1701, in the dignity of Baron Glenawly, County Fermanagh, and VISCOUNT HOWE.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

EMANUEL SCROPE, 2nd Viscount (1700-35); who inherited subsequently as 4th Baronet in 1730, on the demise of Sir Richard Grobham Howe, the ancient baronetcy of the family.

his lordship wedded, in 1719, Mary Sophia charlotte, eldest daughter of the Hanoverian Baron Kielmansegg, Master of the horse to GEORGE I, as Elector of Hanover, and had issue,

GEORGE AUGUSTUS, his successor;
RICHARD, successor to his brother;
John, died in 1769;
WILLIAM, 5th Viscount;
Caroline; Charlotte; Juliana; Mary.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

GEORGE AUGUSTUS, 3rd Viscount (c1724-58), who served as Brigadier-General in the Seven Years' War, and fell at Fort Ticonderoga, in 1758, when the title devolved upon his brother,

RICHARD, 4th Viscount (1726-99), KG,

The celebrated Admiral Howe; who, for his gallant professional services, was created a peer of Great Britain, in 1782, by the title of Viscount Howe; and advanced, in 1788, to an earldom, in the dignity of EARL HOWE, being, at the same time, created Baron Howe of Langar, with reversion of the latter dignity, in default of male, to his female issue.

Admiral of the Fleet the Rt Hon the 1st Earl Howe

His lordship was installed a Knight of the Garter in 1797.

He married, in 1758, Mary, daughter of Chiverton Hartropp, and had three daughters,

SOPHIA CHARLOTTE, Baroness Howe of Langar;
Maria Juliana; Louisa Catherine.

Lord Howe died in 1799, when the viscountcy and earldom of Howe expired.

The barony devolved upon his eldest daughter; and the Irish honours of Viscount Howe and Baron Glenawly, with the baronetcy, reverted to his brother,

GENERAL THE RT HON SIR WILLIAM HOWE KB (1729-1814), 5th Viscount,  Commander-in-Chief, North America, 1775-78, Governor of Plymouth, 1808-14.

His lordship wedded, in 1765, Frances, daughter of the RT HON WILLIAM JAMES CONOLLY, of Castletown, County Kildare, though died without issue, when the titles expired.

General the Rt Hon the 5th Viscount Howe KB

This nobleman was one of the principal officers employed in America during the war for independence, and had the chief command from the return of General Gage, in 1775, to 1778.

The first and last Earl Howe's eldest daughter having, at the decease of her father, inherited the barony, became

(SOPHIA) CHARLOTTE, BARONESS HOWE OF LANGAR (1762-1835); who espoused firstly, in 1787, the Hon Penn Assheton Curzon, eldest son of Assheton, 1st Viscount Curzon, by whom she had issue,

George Augustus (1788-1805);
RICHARD WILLIAM;
Marianne.

Mr Curzon dying in 1797, the Baroness married secondly, in 1812, Sir Jonathan Wathen Waller Bt, by whom she had no child.

Her ladyship was succeeded by her son,

RICHARD WILLIAM, 1st EARL HOWE (1796-1870).

First published in March, 2020.

1st Earl of Erne

THE EARLS OF ERNE WERE THE SECOND LARGEST LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY FERMANAGH, WITH 31,389 ACRES

THURSTANUS DE CRICHTON, the first of the name appearing on record, was a witness to the foundation charter of the Abbacy of Holyrood House, in 1128.

WILLIAM DE CRICHTON, Lord of Crichton in 1240, had issue, a son,

THOMAS DE CRICHTON, one of the great Barons who swore fealty to EDWARD I of England, in 1296.

He died ca 1300, leaving issue by Eda his wife,

NICHOLAS, of whom presently;

William, ancestor of the Barons Crichton, and the Earls of Dumfries;

Thomas, Burgess of Berwick.

The eldest son,

NICHOLAS DE CRICHTON, living during the time of Robert Bruce, left issue, a son,

SIR JOHN DE CRICHTON, Lord of Crichton ca 1340; who died ca 1358, leaving issue,

WILLIAM, his heir;

John.

The elder son,

SIR WILLIAM DE CRICHTON, had a grant of the lands of West Brunston in Penicuik, confirmed in 1373.

Sir William had issue,

John, of Crichton, ancestor of the Viscounts Frendraught;

Stephen, of Carnis;

Thomas;

EDWARD, of whom we treat.

The youngest son,

EDWARD CRICHTON, of Brunston, and Gilbertoun, living in 1419 and 1425, died in 1447, leaving a son,

THOMAS CRICHTON, of Brunston, living in 1450, who died 1456, leaving issue,

George, of Brunston;

JOHN, of whom we treat.

The younger son,

JOHN CRICHTON, of Brunston and Daltonwick, succeeded his brother, and died in 1487, leaving issue,

EDWARD, his heir;

John.

The elder son,

EDWARD CRICHTON, of Brunston, married Agnes Cockburn, daughter of the Laird of Ormiston, and died 1506, when he was succeeded by his eldest surviving son,

JOHN CRICHTON, of Brunston, who wedded Janet, daughter of Sir Alexander Hamilton, of Innerwick, East Lothian, and died in 1536, having had issue, a son,

ALEXANDER CRICHTON, of Brunston,

A zealous promoter of the reformed religion, at first the supporter, but afterwards the resolute opponent of Cardinal Beaton, was employed in many diplomatic and secret missions. He was a leading protector of Wishart. He was attainted in 1548, but the attainder was reversed 1558. 

He wedded, before 1530, Janet, daughter of John Pennycuke of that ilk, and died before 1558, having had issue, a son,

JOHN CRICHTON, of Brunston, and of Stany Hill, who sold his estates in 1597.

He espoused Margaret Adamson, daughter of the Laird of Graycrook, near Edinburgh, and died before 1604, having had issue, four sons, of whom,

James, settled at Aghalane Castle, Co Fermanagh, before 1616;

ABRAHAM, of whom we treat.

The youngest son,

ABRAHAM CREICHTON, of Drumboory, near Devenish Island, on Lough Erne, settled in Ulster before 1616, and died before 1631, leaving issue, by Nicholas [sic], his wife,

ABRAHAM, his heir;

Jane; Elizabeth.

The only son,

ABRAHAM CREIGHTOUN (ante 1631-1705), of Drumboory, and afterwards jure uxoris, of Crom Castle, High Sheriff of County Fermanagh, 1673, MP for County Fermanagh, 1692-3, Enniskillen, 1695-9,

Was celebrated for his successful defence of Crom Castle, against King James's army. The first siege took place in 1689; the second in July following. He was in command of his regiment at the battle of Aughrim, County Galway, in 1691. 

Colonel Creighton married, in 1655, Mary, daughter of the Rt Rev James Spottiswood, Lord Bishop of Clogher, and Elizabeth Staunton his second wife, and widow of Thomas Perkins, of Lifford.

With her he obtained Crom Castle on Lough Erne, which had been granted, in 1624, to Bishop Spottiswood.

Colonel Creighton died in 1705, having had, with other issue,

James;

Abraham;

DAVID, of whom we treat;

Jane; Marianna.

The youngest son,

DAVID CREIGHTON (c1670-1728), of Crom Castle, celebrated for his gallant defence, in 1689, of the family seat of Crom Castle, against a large body of the Royal Army (JAMES II's).

Having repulsed the assailants, young Creighton made a sally, at the instant that a corps of Enniskilleners was approaching to the relief of the castle, which movement placed the besiegers between two fires, and caused dreadful slaughter. The enemy attempting to accomplish his retreat across an arm of Lough Erne, near Crom Castle, that spot became the scene of such carnage, that it bore the name of the "Bloody Pass". 

This gentleman represented Enniskillen in parliament, and attaining the rank of major-general in the army, was appointed governor of the Royal Hospital of Kilmainham.

He wedded, ante 1695, Katherine, second daughter of Richard Southwell, of Castle Mattress, County Limerick, and sister of 1st Lord Southwell, and had issue,

ABRAHAM, his heir;

Meliora.

Major-General Creichton, MP for Augher, 1695-9, Lifford, 1703-28, was succeeded by his only surviving son,

ABRAHAM CREIGHTON (c1700-72), MP for Lifford, 1727-68, who was elevated to the peerage, in 1768, in the dignity of Baron Erne, of Crom Castle.

His lordship espoused Elizabeth, eldest daughter of  John Rogerson, Lord Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench in Ireland, and had issue,

David, died young;
JOHN, his successor;
Abraham;
Meliora; Charlotte; Mary.

He married secondly, in 1762, Jane, only daughter of John King, of Charlestown, County Roscommon, and widow of Arthur Acheson.

His lordship was succeeded by his elder surviving son,

JOHN, 2nd Baron (1731-1828), who was created, 1781, Viscount Erne; and advanced to the dignity of an earldom, in 1789, as EARL OF ERNE.

His lordship wedded firstly, in 1761, Catherine, 2nd daughter of the Rt Rev Robert Howard, Lord Bishop of Elphin, and sister of the Viscount Wicklow, and had issue,

ABRAHAM, his successor;
John;
Elizabeth; Catherine.

He espoused secondly, in 1776, the Lady Mary Hervey, eldest daughter FREDERICK AUGUSTUS, EARL OF BRISTOL, LORD BISHOP OF DERRY, and had an only daughter, Elizabeth Caroline Mary, who wedded James Archibald, Lord Wharncliffe.

His lordship was succeeded by his son and heir,

ABRAHAM, 2nd Earl (1765-1842), MP for Lifford, 1790-97, who changed the spelling of the family name to CRICHTON.

He died unmarried, and was succeeded by his nephew,

JOHN, 3rd Earl (1802-85), KP, who wedded, in 1837, Selina Griselda, daughter of the Rev Charles Cobbe Beresford, and had issue,

JOHN HENRY, his successor;
Charles Frederick;
Henry George Louis (Sir), KCB;
Louisa Anne Catherine.

His lordship was installed a Knight of St Patrick in 1868.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN HENRY, 4th Earl (1839-1914), KP PC, who wedded, in 1870, the Lady Florence Mary Cole, daughter of William Willoughby, 3rd Earl of Enniskillen, and had issue,

Henry William, MVO, DSO, dvp;
George Arthur Charles (Sir), GCVO;
Arthur Owen;
James Archibald, DSO;
Evelyn Louisa Selina;
Mabel Florence Mary, MBE.

His lordship was appointed a Knight of St Patrick in 1889.

4th Earl of Erne KP

He was succeeded by his grandson,

JOHN HENRY GEORGE, 5th Earl (1907-40), DL, who espoused, in 1931, the Lady Davidema Katharine Cynthia Mary Millicent Bulwer-Lytton, daughter of Victor, 2nd Earl of Lytton, and had issue,

HENRY GEORGE VICTOR JOHN, his successor;
Rosanagh Mary; Antonia Pamela Mary.

His lordship, a Page of Honour to GEORGE V, 1921-24, and Lord-in-Waiting to GEORGE VI, was killed in action in France during the 2nd World War.

• John Henry George Crichton, 5th Earl (1907–40);

• Henry George Victor John Crichton, 6th Earl (1937–2015);

• John Henry Michael Ninian Crichton, 7th Earl (b 1971).

The heir presumptive is the 4th earl's great-grandson, Charles David Blayney Crichton (b 1953), and his son, Oliver Charles Martin Crichton (b 1995), heir apparent.

*****

Crom Castle is the ancestral seat of the Earls of Erne.

Crom Estate, however, has been a property of the National Trust since 1988.

The name Crom is correctly pronounced "Crum", as in bread-crumb.

The 6th Earl, who died on the 23rd December, 2015, is survived by wife Anna, Countess of Erne, and his son and four daughters: John, 7th Earl; Lady Cleone; Lady Davina; Lady Katherine; and Lady Tara.

6th Earl of Erne KCVO

The 6th Earl retired as HM Lord-Lieutenant for County Fermanagh on the 9th July, 2012, having served 25 years in office.

One of his final official engagements was to welcome Her Majesty The Queen and HRH The Duke of Edinburgh to the county during Her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee tour, on the 26th June, 2012.

CROM CASTLE, near Newtownbutler, County Fermanagh, is a large castellated mansion combining baronial and Tudor-Revival elements.

It was built in 1829 to the design of Edward Blore (who also completed the design of Buckingham Palace).

I visited the Castle about thirty years ago and remember the indoor swimming-pool, which was adjacent to the conservatory.

Although remote, Crom is one of my favourite places in Northern Ireland; I always relish revisiting it.

I stayed on the estate several times during the 1980s.

In those days, if my memory serves me correctly, the family had a golden retriever called Boomer which visited us at our cottage occasionally.

*****

The then housekeeper, Mrs Johnston, was a well-known tea-leaf reader in the vicinity.

One night there was a knock on the door. It was a man inquiring if we read "tea"in a local accent.

At first we were puzzled and uncomprehending as to what he meant; later, however, we discovered Mrs Johnston's talented gift! 

Former London residence ~ 19, Cavendish Avenue, St John's Wood, NW8.

First published December, 2009.

Franklin Maxims: II

• HE THAT WOULD LIVE IN PEACE AND AT EASE, MUST NOT SPEAK ALL HE KNOWS, NOR JUDGE ALL HE SEES.

First published in April, 2020.

Cairndhu House

CAIRNDHU HOUSE, near Larne, County Antrim, was built for Mr Stewart Clark at some stage after 1878.

Mr Clark was a wealthy Scottish textile industrialist. He married Annie (daughter of John Smiley and sister of SIR HUGH HOUSTON SMILEY Bt). Their daughter Edith married Sir Thomas Dixon in 1906. 

Cairndhu comprises two storeys and many gables; though it's style is vaguely Oriental, given that it boasts ornate, openwork bargeboards and an elaborate wooden veranda and balcony running for most of the frontage.

The house was later extended, in 1897-8, to the designs of Samuel P Close.

A collection of small buildings were on the site, presumably a farm, which in 1857 was called Seaview, the property of Robert Agnew.

Mr Clark bought Seaview in 1878, and would appear to have rebuilt it rather than remodelled or extended it, as there is now no trace of any earlier buildings.

The architect of the initial phase of Clark's building may have been Mr Close.

Cairndhu was extended by Mr Clark at various times, the last time reportedly being in 1906.

Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon purchased Cairndhu in 1918.

They added the servants' dining hall.

In 1947, the Dixons donated the house and 162 acres of land to the Northern Ireland Hospitals Authority. 

*****

SIR THOMAS DIXON, 2nd Baronet, married Edith, youngest daughter of Mr Stewart Clark, of Dundas Castle, South Queensferry, Scotland, and Cairndhu, in 1906, at Dalmeny Church, South Queensferry.

Edith Clark was the sister of Sir John Stewart-Clark, 1st Baronet.

After their marriage, the Dixons lived for varying periods at Graymount House, Hillsborough Castle, Drumadarragh, Luttrelstown, and Lucan, before purchasing Lady Dixon’s childhood summer residence, Cairndhu.

The estate increased in size to nearly 500 acres when the adjoining properties of Droagh (formerly Sir Edward Coey’s estate) and Carnfunnock (William Chaine’s property) were purchased.

The Dixon family held many house and garden parties and entertained public dignitaries with grouse shooting in the Antrim Hills. 

More improvements were made to the house including the servants' dining hall.

The house was beautiful and Cairndhu had a large workforce, with 20 indoors staff, kitchen staff, ladies maids and upstairs staff .

Sir Thomas occupied his time with livestock farming, including a herd of dairy cows.

The farm office, stables and cattle byres were based at Hillhead Farm, now the clubhouse of Cairndhu Golf Club. 

Mr. Frank Brownlow was responsible for looking after the extensive herds of cattle and sheep at Carnfunnock, Cairndhu and hill land at Ballyboley.

He travelled to auctions all over Ireland to purchase cattle for Sir Thomas and managed the farm at Cairndhu. 

The land at Cairndhu was used for grazing cattle, mainly Shorthorns and Galloway cattle, which were bred for beef.

Two or three mornings per week they would inspect the cattle together and if Mr Brownlow pointed out to Sir Thomas that neighbouring farms were for sale, such as Droagh Farm, Sir Thomas would buy them and knock down hedges to have his fields extended for grazing. 

Sir Thomas often had his chauffeur, Sandy Moreland, drive him round the fields in his yellow and black Rolls-Royce to see his cattle, land stewards and head gardeners.

There were twenty-two gardeners and estate workers. 

In 1937, when Carnfunnock was merged with Cairndhu, Mr Brownlow was responsible for the management of the whole estate, which consisted of 500 acres.

In September, 1939, at the outbreak of World War II, Sir Thomas, as Mayor of Larne (1939-41), handed over his Larne residence for use as a War Hospital Supply Depot and organised the YMCA canteen at the harbour. 

Lady Dixon was president of the Ulster Fund and War Hospital Supply Depot for Serving Forces (Larne Depot) with donations requested in October 1939 to purchase necessary materials.

Sir Thomas provided his land, though he and Lady Dixon were able to live independently in Cairndhu without being affected.

The Carnfunnock walled garden grew cabbage, cauliflower and other vegetables that were used in Cairndhu or taken to Lady Dixon’s friends and family. 

In 1940 Lady Dixon gave one of their three Rolls-Royces to be converted into an ambulance for first-aid parties to the Larne A.R.P. Ambulance Service.

In May, 1947, Sir Thomas celebrated his 79th birthday, and the occasion was marked by announcing a generous gift: After forty years at Cairndhu, the Dixons donated their 60-room family home, with 100 acres of the estate, to the Ministry of Health and Local Government for use as a convalescent home and hospital. 

At the time, Lady Dixon said that she was very sorry to be going away from the house that her father built: “It’s too big for us now, though. It was different in the days when we could entertain.”

Sir Thomas died on holiday at the Majestic Hotel, Harrogate, on 10th May, 1950, aged 81.

His body was brought back on the Stranraer steam-boat en route to his last residence, Wilmont House in Dunmurry.

The funeral service was held at Belfast Cathedral before burial at Dundonald Cemetery.

His younger brother Herbert, who had already been elevated to the peerage as 1st Baron Glentoran, succeeded him in the baronetcy.

At the time of Sir Thomas’s death, his effects were valued at over £389,000.

Cairndhu was officially opened as a convalescent hospital in 1950, but funding difficulties meant that, in 1986, it was closed down by the Department of Health and Social Services. 

In 1995, the Lord Rana purchased Cairndhu House and the surrounding gardens from the council.

A public consultation was held in 2018 over plans to develop the site of the derelict mansion into 'retirement village' facilities and a care home.

*****

CAIRNDHU was originally built as a summer residence in 1875 on a beautiful site overlooking the sea, which hitherto had a small amount of planting around a former smaller house called Sea View.

The trees, forming an effective shelter-belt, date from the late 19th century.

The site benefited initially from the shelter-belts of the adjoining property, Carncastle Lodge (now Carnfunnock Country Park).

These adjacent sites are now both administered by Larne Borough Council.

Gardens developed round the house with steeply terraced lawns.

The grounds rise on a steep slope from sea level, east to west.

The productive gardens were to the west side of the house at the most elevated level.

Vestiges of these remain and some dilapidated glass-houses.

There are good specimens of mature trees, shrub planting and lawns.

The northern end is now a golf course.

First published in August, 2010.

Learmount Park

In June, 2026, I paid my first visit to Learmount Park, formerly the country estate of the Beresfords, scions of the Marquesses of Waterford.

The forest park is adjacent to the tiny village of Park in County Londonderry.

There is a small car park beside the former estate schoolhouse and adjoining teacher's residence.

This schoolhouse was built by (it is presumed) Henry Barré Beresford in 1824; and once had sixty-four pupils.

It closed as a school in the 1960s.

Learmount parish church (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

THE little parish church stands close to the schoolhouse. It was erected in 1831 and cost £747 (equivalent to almost £70,000 in 2026).

Memorial to Henry Barré and Eliza Beresford (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

This neo-Gothic church is surrounded by a graveyard and is in very good condition.

Memorial to Rev William Montgomery Beresford (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

I walked the short distance through woodland and forest to the derelict Learmount Castle.

Learmount Castle (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

Sadly the house has been unoccupied since 1983, when it operated as a youth hostel.

I couldn't see the roof; the fabric of the building is not, however, beyond redemption. It could potentially be restored.

Learmount Castle (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

A large wing, which was set back, was demolished by the Northern Ireland forest service in 1970. 

The Beresford arms are still above the main entrance, which is stepped.

Visitors were greeted by a pair of gruesome bearded mask dripstones (one remains) on the hood moulding around the main door.

Remaining sculpted mask (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

At the top of the stepped parapet there was a sculpted buck’s head (de la Poer crest); two dragons’ heads (Beresford crest) adorned the lower sections of the stepped parapet.

The Buck looked straight ahead; whereas the dragons looked to the left and right.

Were Learmount Castle (likely named "castle" after an earlier dwelling) ever to be restored, these sculpted heads could be replicated with advice from Lord Waterford or other members of the family.

Pond in the walled garden (Timothy Ferres, 2026)

The erstwhile coach-house behind the house is in good condition and is used as accommodation; while the former walled garden of about 1⅓ acres has been grassed over and contains a circular pond.