Tuesday, 14 July 2026

Desmond Castle

THE EARLS OF DEVON WERE THE LARGEST LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY LIMERICK, WITH 33,026 ACRES
 

The COURTENAYS, one of the most illustrious races amongst the English nobility, deduce their paternal descent from ATHON DE COURTENAY, who sprang himself from PHARAMOND, founder of the French monarchy in 1420, and common patriarch of all the Kings of France. This ATHON having fortified, during the reign of ROBERT the Wise, the town of COURTENAY, in the Île-de-France, thence assumed his surname. 

WILLIAM COURTENAY, de jure 3rd Earl of Devon (1553-1630), High Sheriff of Devon, 1581; who, in 1585, was one of the undertakers to send over settlers for the better planting of Ireland, and thus laid the foundation of the prodigious estate in that kingdom enjoyed by his posterity.


Sir William married Elizabeth, daughter of Henry, 2nd Earl of Rutland, and was succeeded by his eldest surviving son,

FRANCIS, de jure 4th Earl ((1576-1638), of Powderham Castle, Devon, who was succeeded by his eldest son,

WILLIAM, de jure 5th Earl (1628-1702).


IN THE late 16th century, the vast estates of the Earl of Desmond were forfeited by the Crown.

The Castle, Newcastle West, County Limerick, and a large amount of surrounding land, was granted to Sir William Courtenay, de jure 3rd Earl of Devon, of Powderham, Devon, in 1591.
The Courtenays, Earls of Devon, still live at Powderham Castle in Kent.
Sir William was a staunch Roman Catholic and suffered persecution for his beliefs.

His son George might even have practised his faith in secret.

Their home was reputed to have had a room in which priests were hidden.

Courtenay was denounced in the House of Commons as a "papist recusant" in 1624.

In December, 1641, disturbances broke out in Newcastle West and the castle was burned down.

It is unlikely that anybody lived in the castle after that time.


The old castle house, which was adjacent to the castle and where the agents for the Courtenays lived, was probably built around 1700.

This house was burnt during the Irish civil war in 1922.
In time the Courtenays were to become the largest landlords in County Limerick, owning up to 85,000 acres in the south-west of the county; the remaining lands of Newcastle West and the surrounding countryside were known as the Devon Estate until the first years of the 20th century.
In 1908, under the 1903 Land Act, practically all the lands of the Devon Estate were sold.

The town of Newcastle West itself was sold in 1910.

The last agents on the Courtenays in Newcastle West were the Curling family.

They were agents from 1848 until the decimation and sale of the Estate.

After the break up of the estate, they bought the castle building and some of the surrounding land from Lord Devon.

The last Curling, Richard, died in 1943.

In 1944 his house house and the castle grounds were sold.

It is believed that the Castle, known as the Desmond Banqueting Hall and Castle, is now state-owned.

First published in May, 2011.

1st Viscount Strangford

The family of SMYTHE is descended from an ancient family which was long seated at Corsham, in Wiltshire, whose arms were azure, an escutcheon argent, surrounded by six lions rampant or, as appeared by a seal then 200 years old, exhibited to the heralds at the visitation of Wiltshire, 1620, which coat was allowed to the younger branches.


JOHN SMYTHE, of Corsham, Wiltshire, living during the reign of HENRY VIII, married Joan, daughter of Robert Brouncker, of Melksham.

He died in 1538, leaving issue,
JOHN;
THOMAS, of whom presently;
Henry;
Robert;
Richard;
Ann; Jane; Elizabeth.
The second son,

THOMAS SMYTHE (1522-91), left Corsham and seated himself at Osterhanger, Kent.

This gentleman was farmer of the customs, or customer, in the reign of ELIZABETH I, by which he amassed considerable wealth.

He wedded Alice, daughter and heiress of Sir Andrew Judde, by whom he acquired the manor of Ashford; and left, with other issue,
JOHN, his heir;
Thomas (Sir), Ambassador to Russia, 1604.
The eldest son,

SIR JOHN SMYTHE (1557-1608), Knight, of Osterhanger and Ashford, espoused, in 1578, Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of John Fineux, of Hawhouse, Kent (son of Sir John Fineux), and had issue,
THOMAS, his heir;
Katherine; Elizabeth.
His only son,

SIR THOMAS SMYTHE KB (1599-1635), of Ostenhanger, and of Ashford, Kent, having inherited a considerable fortune from his father, "being a person of distinguished merit and opulent fortune", was appointed a Knight of the Bath at the coronation of CHARLES I, in 1625-6.

Sir Thomas was elevated to the peerage, in 1628, in the dignity of VISCOUNT STRANGFORD, of Strangford, County Down.

He married, about 1621, the Lady Barbara Sydney, daughter of Robert, 1st Earl of Leicester KG, and niece of the ever-memorable Sir Philip Sydney, and had issue,
PHILIP, his successor;
Barbara; Elizabeth; Philippa; Dorothy.
His lordship was succeeded by his only son,

PHILIP, 2nd Viscount, (1634-1708), who wedded firstly, in 1650, his cousin, the Lady Isabella Sydney, daughter of Robert, 2nd Earl of Leicester, by which lady he had issue, a daughter, Diana; and secondly, Mary, daughter of George Porter, groom of the bedchamber to CHARLES I, by whom he had issue,
ENDYMION, his successor;
Elizabeth; Olivia; Katherine Clare.
His lordship was succeeded by his only son,

ENDYMION, 3rd Viscount, who married, ca 1710, Anne Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Monsieur Jean Largot ca 1710.

He died in 1724, and was succeeded by his only son,

THE VERY REV PHILIP, 4th Viscount (1715-87), Dean of Derry, who espoused, in 1741, Mary, daughter of Anthony Jephson MP, of Mallow, County Cork; and was succeeded by his only son,

LIONEL, 5th Viscount (1753-1801), who entered early in life into the Army, and distinguished himself in North America.

He subsequently took holy orders and became a clergyman of the established church: Rector of Kilbrew, County Meath, 1788-1801; Prebendary of St Patrick's, Dublin, 1790-1801.

His lordship married, in 1779, Maria Eliza, eldest daughter of Frederick Philips, of Philipsburg, New York, and had issue,
PERCY CLINTON SYDNEY, his successor;
Eliza Maria Sydney.
His lordship was succeeded by his only son, 

PERCY CLINTON SYDNEY, 6th Viscount (1780-1855), GCB GCH PC, and Baron Penshurst, of Penshurst, Kent, who wedded, in 1817, Ellen, youngest daughter of Sir Thomas Burke Bt, of Marble Hill, and had issue,
GEORGE AUGUSTUS FREDERICK PERCY SYDNEY, his successor;
PERCY ELLEN ALGERNON FREDERICK WILLIAM SYDNEY, 8th Viscount;
Ellen Sydney; Philippa Eliza Sydney.
His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

GEORGE AUGUSTUS FREDERICK PERCY SYDNEY, 7th Viscount (1818-57), MP for Canterbury, 1841-52, who wedded, in 1857, Margaret Cunningham, daughter of John Lennox Kincaid Lennox, though the marriage was without issue.

7th Viscount Strangford. Photo Credit: The National Trust

His lordship was succeeded in the family honours by his brother,

PERCY ELLEN ALGERNON FREDERICK WILLIAM SYDNEY, 8th Viscount (1825-69), who espoused, in 1862, Emily Anne, daughter of Rear-Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort KCB.

8th Viscount Strangford (Image: Merton College, Oxford)

The 8th Viscount died without issue, in 1869, when the title expired.
*****
A Selection from the Writings of Viscount Strangford on Political, Geographical and Social Subjects was edited by his widow and published in 1869. His Original Letters and Papers upon Philology and Kindred Subjects were also edited by Lady Strangford (1878).

*****

Before moving to Ashford, John Smythe had made a fortune importing wine from Spain into the port of Bristol.

John’s son, Customer Thomas Smythe, was a major financial player in England.

Customer Smythe developed the very first stock company to spread risk and advance exploration with the Moscovy Company to find a northern route to East Asia above Russia.

He became Lord of the Manor of Ashford, Kent.

When Customer Smythe died, his eldest son, John, managed their vast holdings and investments in the various exploration companies.

Customer Smythe also invested in the profitable Drake voyages with a kinsman, Admiral William Wynter, one of the first English admirals.

The Smythes previously purchased or built a very large mansion on Philpot Street, adjacent to Fenchurch Street, London, from where they managed their various investments, and were front and centre in the various investments that later followed such as the Levant Company, Bermuda Company, The Virginia Company of London, and The North West Company.

The Smythes were also involved as Undertakers during the Plantation of Ulster.

John Smythe, the eldest son of Customer Smythe, was managing the family fortune and he resided at Ashford Manor and/or their other estate at Westenhanger.

In 1603, Robert Sydney was Lord Chamberlain for the household of Queen Anne of Denmark, consort of JAMES I.

Robert Mansell of Mount Desert (E), who was knighted at Cadiz where a brother of Thomas Smythe was killed, married a Lady in Waiting to Queen Anne.

The bride was the daughter of John Roper of Kent. Captain William Roper of the Eastern Shore had married the sister of Captain William Eppes, and the Ropers held land at Ivychurch.

Robert Sydney’s daughter married the nephew of Robert Mansell, and another of Sydney’s daughters, Barbara, married the son of the elder son, John Smythe of Ashford.

His name was also Thomas, and he held the title Viscount Strangford.

First published in January, 2011. 

Monday, 13 July 2026

Franklin Maxims: VI

TELL ME MY FAULTS, AND MEND YOUR OWN.

First published in May, 2020.

Redhall

THE MACAULAYS OWNED 567 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY ANTRIM


The Macaulays of Antrim trace their descent from the MacAulays of Ardincaple, or Ardencaple, Dumbartonshire, a branch of that family having settled in County Antrim early in the 17th century, and occupied a position of considerable importance in the county.

The ancient clan of the MacAulays of Ardincaple has been traced to Awlay, a brother of Maldouen, Earl of Lennox, who died in the reign of ALEXANDER III, King of Scots.


JAMES MACAULAY JP, of Ben Neagh, Crumlin, County Antrim, married, in 1785, Jane, daughter of Thomas Hyndman, of Ballyronan, County Londonderry, and died in 1839, leaving a son,

ROBERT MACAULAY (1788-1864), of Glenoak, Crumlin, and of Larne, County Antrim, who wedded, in 1807, Helena, daughter of Jasper White, of Limerick, and had issue,
Jasper, of Leigh Hill House, Cobham, Surrey;
JOHN, of whom hereafter;
Helena; Robina; Emily.
Mr Macaulay’s younger son,

JOHN MACAULAY JP DL (1823-1912), of Red Hall, Ballycarry, County Antrim, High Sheriff of County Antrim, 1891, espoused, in 1853, Jane Callwell, daughter of Patrick Agnew, of KILWAUGHTER and Larne, County Antrim, and had issue,
ROBERT HELENUS;
Agnew McNeil;
Elizabeth Agnew; Helen Elizabeth White; Edith May Agnew.
Mr Macaulay was succeeded by his eldest son,

ROBERT HELENUS MACAULAY (1854-1943), who married, in 1883, Sarah, youngest daughter of William Richardson, of BROOKLANDS, Belfast, and had issue,
ROBERT KEITH AGNEW, 1884-1963, Lieutenant, Royal Engineers;
John Mortimer William, b 1885;
Irene Vera Muriel.
REDHALL, near Ballycarry, County Antrim, is essentially a 17th century tower-house, enlarged by the addition of two wings containing large reception rooms of ca 1790, and remodelled in the 19th century.

In the older part of the house there are ceilings of primitive though vigorous plasterwork.

John Dalway arrived at Carrickfergus in 1573 and, marrying Jane O’Neill, was given a large grant of land in this area.

It is presumed he built a house and that he coined the name Red Hall.

In 1609, William Edmonstone, of Duntreath, Stirlingshire, secured a lease from John Dalway.
What form the house took at that time is not known, though it would appear that Edmonstone repaired and modernised an existing castle or tower house which had been owned by the O'Neills and dated from at least the mid-16th century, if not earlier.
Dating from the 17th century remodelling are the oak staircase of the Jacobean period; the roof timbers; and a panelled room in late 17th century style.

Panelled ceilings in the first floor have been ascribed to ca 1730.

In 1784, the estate was sold by Sir Archibald Edmonstone Bt to RICHARD GERVAS KER who, in 1793, added the wings to each side to create drawing and dining rooms, with a kitchen in the basement.

Mr Ker was also probably responsible for remodelling the main block, including building a parapet around it and adding a four-columned porch in front of a newly positioned central entrance.


Ker was succeeded by his nephew, David Stewart Ker, of MONTALTO, who, in 1822, is recorded as having built the nearby threshing mill to the west of the house in 1835.

In 1830, the house was described as,
Very plain in its architecture, stone finished on the outside without anything ornamental in its structure or appearance ... the garden is small but the demesne ornamental and pleasure grounds are very extensive, and the plantings of firs, larch and beech very tastefully varied and laid out.
In 1869, the estate was bought by John Macaulay, to whom may be attributed the present rendered finish to the exterior, incorporating quoins, rustications, string courses, and surrounds to windows; the small balcony on the east elevation; the canted bay added to the south wing, the square turret added at the north-east corner; the replacement of the small-paned windows by plate glass; and banks, terraces and stone steps around the house, all apparently between 1871-75.

The Macaulay surname is spelled MacAulay in the 1912 edition of Burke's Gentry of Ireland, and varies in several other publications.

The internal plasterwork ceilings in the entrance hall and morning room, and plasterwork details in the dining-room and drawing-room may also be attributed to Macaulay.

The present porch was in position by 1871, when it had a small pediment over it.

An addition by Macaulay, subsequently removed, was a large central chimney on the south parapet of the main block.

In 1902, the estate was bought by W J Porrit, who was responsible for the red-painted finish to the exterior, of which only traces now remain.

In 1918, George Reade became Redhall's new owner.

He inserted dormers into three of the attics; and was probably responsible for the removal of Macauley's south chimney.

In 1927, after lying empty for some years, it was bought by Vice-Admiral John William Leopold McClintock, son of Admiral Sir Francis L McClintock KCB, and grandfather of the present owner.

In 1939-45, it was requisitioned for military use.


IN the 1870s the grounds comprised 567 acres.

The wooded demesne at Redhall is laid out on an axial plan typical of sites dating from the 17th century.

The majority of such sites were subsequently altered during passing generations but the grounds at Redhall remain little altered in plan.

The house, enlarged from its 1627 origins, stands at the apex of straight avenues leading from north to south and from east to west.

There is an oak avenue, a lime avenue leading to the church of 1848 and a late 19th century Wellingtonia avenue (the latter is in addition to the axial plan mentioned above).

There has been continuous tree planting in the demesne including less formal areas around a glen and waterfall.

Atkinson, in Ireland Exhibited to England (1823), remarks on the beauty of the lawn and forest.

The Ordnance Survey Memoirs of 1839 state that,
About fifty acres are under ornamental plantings and shrubberies. Besides these are numerous judiciously disposed belts and clumps of plantings, which not only show to advantage beautifully diversified surfaces of the demesne, but exceedingly heighten the effect of the rich scenery of Larne Lough.
The demesne, on ground rising to the west from the lough, still enhances the area today.

Terraced lawns at the house are reminiscent of the Victorian era.

The walled garden is close to the house and is part cultivated with fruit trees.

There is a stone building, possibly built as a summer house.

The lodge on the Larne Road and a tower are both listed.

First published in December, 2010.

Sunday, 12 July 2026

Donard Lodge Colourized

Donard Lodge Colourized © History of Newcastle, County Down.  Click to Enlarge

On my seventeenth birthday, the 22nd December, 1976, I received a thoughtful present from my grandmother.


Historic Buildings in the Mourne Area of South Down was published by the Ulster Architectural Heritage Society in May, 1975.

It was prepared for the Society by P J Rankin.

One property that features in the book is DONARD LODGE, Newcastle, County Down, the former 'Marine Residence' of Lord and Lady Annesley, whose principal seat was CASTLEWELLAN CASTLE.

The Annesleys developed Newcastle as a resort in the early 19th century.

They owned a vast stretch of land from Slieve Donard to Slieve Croob, totalling almost 25,000 acres, which made them one of the largest landowners in County Down.

The old castle, close to the sea-shore, was taken down by Lord Annesley, and in its place he erected a
'Spacious and elegant' hotel, costing £3,000. This hotel commanded 'a most extensive prospect, embracing the Isle of Man in the foreground, and in the rear the lofty mountains of Mourne.'
William, 3rd Earl Annesley, built Donard Lodge, at the foot of Slieve Donard, about 1830.

Click to Enlarge

It was eighty-nine feet in length, with a large semi-circular conservatory attached to the south side.

The northern elevation, near the Glen River, contained the stable-yard and other outbuildings.

About 500 acres of land above the mansion were planted with trees, and a beautiful garden was created by the Rev John Moore (of Rowallane) and his sister Priscilla, 3rd Countess Annesley.

Eighty acres of the demesne, around and above the mansion, became the pleasure grounds, with winding paths, ornamental trees and shrubs, waterfalls, cascades, an aviary, a hermitage, shell house, spa house, spa well, visitors' dining house, ornamental dining house, and a variety of rustic stone seats and little bridges.

I've already written about it, though recently I came across a fascinating site on Facebook called History of Newcastle, County Down.

With the site's kind permission I have posted a colourized photograph of Donard Lodge as it looked in happier times.

Almost a week ago I visited the location of the old mansion though, sadly, nothing exists at all apart from some overgrowth and rubble.

When it was demolished in 1966, DONARD LODGE was derelict and probably roofless, having suffered a calamitous fire in 1941.

Donard Lodge, September, 1966, before Demolition. Photo Credit © History of Newcastle

The gate lodge at King Street of ca 1836 survives.

First published in June, 2020.  The colourized image of Donard Lodge is by kind permission of History of Newcastle.

Saturday, 11 July 2026

Belfast Castle: III

AN ARTICLE FROM EDDIE'S BOOK EXTRACTS

THE VIEW from the gardens and the castle was, perhaps, unsurpassed for the beauty of its quiet landscape.

The fertile valley through which the Lagan wended its seaward course had as a background the hills of Castlereagh (Grey Castle) with the old residence of Con O'Neill occupying a prominent position on the summit; while the slopes of the Holywood hills were visible across the twenty-one arches of the Long Bridge.

The Cromac wood, at that time the undergrowth of the primeval forest, lay to the south, skirting the west bank of the Lagan and extending westward as far as the present Shaftesbury Square.

The River Blackstaff meandered in its zig-zag course from the Great Bridge of Belfast, alias Brickhill Bridge, alias Saltwater Bridge, to its outlet at the south of the Long Bridge and, in its course, supplying fresh water to the Castle fish pond, situated at the present Arthur Square.

To the west rose the Black Mountain, a basaltic range of hills, one of which is still known as the Squire's Hill, converted into a deer park by the Lord Deputy, a district now known as Old Park, with the grazing ground covered with sites for residential dwellings.

To the north arose the clear outline of Ben Madigan, with its streaks of limestone glistening in the sunshine, and the contour of its summit bearing a striking resemblance to the profile of Napoleon Bonaparte.

The trees of the new deer park, so-called to distinguish it from the Old Park, sloped in an easterly direction from the Cave Hill to the shores of the Belfast Lough, terminating at Parkmount.

Early on Sunday morning, 25th April, 1708, the Castle was reduced to a mass of smouldering ruins and there perished in the flames the three youngest daughters, Lady Jane, Lady Frances, and Lady Henrietta Chichester.

The daughter of the Vicar, the Rev Mr Barklie, and a servant maid, Catherine Douglas, and a maid, Mary Teggart, escaped from the devouring flames.

The cause of the fire is said to have been due to the carelessness of a servant who lit a wood fire in a room recently washed, and took no precautions to watch for sparks.

All the goods were also destroyed before the men of the town could get in within the walls to help; and these walls were twelve feet high.

Such is the account, written by a prominent Belfast resident at the time of the occurrence.

A considerable quantity of silver plate and objets d'art were apparently rescued from the Castle.

First published in July, 2012.

Friday, 10 July 2026

Franklin Maxims: V


Wink at small faults; remember thou hast great ones.

First published in May, 2020.