Tuesday 31 December 2019

Freemen of Belfast: 1920-29

HONORARY BURGESSES OF THE CITY OF BELFAST
ELECTED AND ADMITTED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE CITY OF BELFAST UNDER THE MUNICIPAL PRIVILEGE (IRELAND) ACT, 1875


29  The Most Hon Hariot Georgina Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava, VA CI DBE ~ 1920

30  The Right Hon Sir James Johnston JP ~ 1922

31  HRH The Prince Albert Frederick Arthur George, Duke of York, ~ 1924

32  Sir Robert Meyer CH KCVO ~ 1924

33  The Right Hon Sir William George Turner JP ~ 1926

34  Lady Turner JP ~ 1926

35  Sir Frederick William Moneypenny CVO CBE JP ~ 1926

36  The Most Noble James Albert Edward Duke of Abercorn, KG KP PC ~ 1927

First published in August, 2012.

Monday 30 December 2019

Lighthouse Island

Click on Image to Enlarge

LIGHTHOUSE ISLAND, the second of the three Copeland Islands, is located three miles off the mouth of Belfast Lough, and is an Area of Special Scientific Interest.

The island covers an area of 24 acres.

The common name of the islands came from the family of Copeland who settled here in the 12th century in the time of John de Courcy, but the island had earlier connections with the monks of Bangor Abbey till 1612, when it became the property of Sir James Hamilton.

When it was occupied by Bangor Abbey, it was known for a time as John's Island, after a miscreant monk who refused to leave when the monastery closed its island retreat some four centuries or more ago.

He spent the remainder of his existance there as a hermit.

In 1770, DAVID KER, OF PORTAVO, purchased the Copeland Islands.

Little is known of what happened on the island between 1884 and 1941.

It has been said that a woman lived there on her own, or in the early 20th century, surviving on rabbits which she shot.

Lighthouse Island, with Mew Island in Background. Photo Credit: PSNI Air Support

It is most likely that rabbits were only introduced after 1884, because the lighthouse keepers were always keen gardeners.

The walled garden, built between 1812-16 by two stone-masons, who carved their names on the wall of the cave on the east cliff.

It has also been claimed that, during the 19th century, the walled garden contained a very fine, canker-free orchard of apple and pear trees. 

The original lighthouse and dwelling were built from stones quarried on the island by convicts.

When the tower was built, an iron chafer was erected on top of the three-storied building and the beacon fire came into operation around 1711.


The lighthouse was 44 feet high, standing on an elevation of almost 70 feet. A new light came into operation in 1796.

In 1815 a new 52-foot lighthouse was built, close to the original one.

The work was commenced in 1813 and the new light, equipped with 27 oil burning lamps set in silvered reflectors, 131 feet above high water and visible for sixteen miles, was first exhibited on the 24th January, 1815.

At sunrise on the morning of the 1st November, 1884, the ancient wick lamps of the fixed light on Lighthouse Island were extinguished for the last time; and the same evening Mew Island light and fog signal were brought into operation.


LIGHTHOUSE ISLAND was inhabited in 1742 when a family lived there.

In 1811 there were two families, comprising about fifteen islanders, some employed in looking after the light.

There was a single family on the island in 1875.

They looked after the light and there was a small boat harbour which was probably in the area of the present landing place.

The lighthouse station had two keepers with their wives and families in residence. New houses were built to accommodate them.

For island lighthouses of the time, life on Lighthouse Island was most tolerable: the island was large enough to support goats, sheep and pigs, as well as a donkey.

The two families were virtually self-sufficient in milk, mutton, pork and bacon.

Their walled garden provided ample vegetables; and their poultry gave them chicken for Sunday lunch, and eggs to complement their bacon for breakfast.

A weekly boat from Donaghadee brought provisions and mail.

For many years the island was leased to Robert McConkey for shooting rabbits and sea-birds.

Before the sporting season started, stores were ferried out to the island in readiness for the sportsmen who came out weekly.

In the season there was the harvesting of the eggs by the commercial egg collectors for market on the mainland, and within memory these have been on sale in the relevant season of the year. 


The first recorded ornithological visit was made in 1939 by Douglas Deane.

He dug out a breeding burrow, complete with egg (now in the Ulster Museum), in order to prove that Manx Shearwaters bred on the island.

Another leading ornithologist, Arnold Bennington, brought out parties of enthusiasts after the 2nd World War, between 1947-53, to evaluate the island as a suitable site for an observatory.

His last group, in 1953, was a class of Workers Educational Association adult students. They decided to establish an observatory.

Thus began Copeland Bird Observatory, with a singular lack of formality.

The proprietor of Lighthouse Island, Captain Ker of Portavo, had agreed to let the island for a peppercorn rent of one shilling.

In 1967, he leased the island to the National Trust for 999 years, on the understanding that the observatory could continue as tenants as long as the organization existed.

The observatory's structure was set up swiftly: Three Heligoland traps were erected; accommodation was secured within the derelict lighthouse buildings; and the British Trust for Ornithology sanctioned accreditation in 1956.

The lighthouse keepers' former premises and storehouse now accommodate the Copeland Bird Observatory (CBO) volunteers; and there is a laboratory where migratory birds are captured for examination, ringing, weighing, recorded and then released all within a few minutes from capture to minimise distress.

This island is an important breeding site for Manx Shearwater and Eider.

The rabbits on the island are important to the breeding of the Manx Shearwater, as their grazing keeps a short sward that is desirable for the fledglings and their burrows provide nesting sites.

The island vegetation includes large areas of rank bracken, sea Campions, elder scrub and many more.

Lighthouse Island is now owned by the National Trust, though administered by volunteer wardens of the Copeland Bird Observatory, one of sixteen observatories throughout the British Isles, monitoring bird migration and sea-bird populations.

There is self-catering accommodation at very reasonable rates, in the form of male and female dormitories, with a few family rooms.

Bear in mind, though, that the observatory is not a guest-house, nor a bed & breakfast establishment!

Its prime role is as a bird observatory.

First published in September, 2012.

Sunday 29 December 2019

Upper Crescent's Revival

University Square from Botanic Avenue, December, 2019

Dear readers, I have just returned from an inspiring walk at Belfast's University Quarter and, in particular, Upper Crescent, Botanic Avenue, Rugby Road, Botanic Gardens, and University Square.

I have to confess that Sir P G Wodehouse's fantastic and wonderful characters, Bertie Wooster and his valet, Jeeves, sometimes spring to mind; so be mindful of a twinkle in the eye as I tap away at the keyboard.

For those of you who have not been zealously following the Belmont narrative since its inception in 2007, I have always had a fondness, bordering on nostalgia, for the Botanic and Stranmillis areas of Belfast.

Much of it is still recognizable, though the Arts Theatre has been closed for decades.

When I was a schoolboy in short trousers we used to queue on Botanic Avenue for matinées and pantomimes there.

I invariably admire University Square, still one of Belfast's finest terraces.

Many pre-eminent physicians and surgeons had consulting-rooms here fifty years ago.

My mother took me to one of them for a sinus ailment in the 1960s.

Rugby Road is an interesting street which runs from University Avenue to Agincourt Avenue.

It comprises mainly terraced townhouses, though there are about half a dozen detached houses at one end, closely beside one another.

Interestingly I could see no basements, though they are quite lofty residences with three or four storeys.

Rugby Road terminates at Agincourt Avenue, though a small terrace known as 'Botanic Court' is tucked in at a side entrance to the park.

Botanic Primary School occupies almost an entire side of the terrace.

Map of ca 1850-60

MY fondness for Upper Crescent should not be underestimated.

I wrote a bit about it five years ago.

Numbers Eleven and Twelve are about to be restored as apartments, thank goodness.

As far as I am aware they have lain derelict and neglected for ages.

Incidentally, if you fancy a period pied-à-terre in town, look no further.

11-14 Upper Crescent, Belfast, December, 2019

Numbers Eleven and Twelve, Upper Crescent are being restored as apartments.

 87-91, Botanic Avenue, also be be restored as flats, was the Botanic Lodge guest house for many years.

87-91, Botanic Avenue, December, 2019

The handsome Victorian (Neo-Regency?) townhouses of Upper Crescent formed part of a three-storey residential terrace built in 1846 by Robert Corry.

Number Eleven was occupied by James Greene (First Clerk, Custom House), followed by Mrs Herdman; and, by 1860, William McNeill.

By the late 1870s, James Festu resided there and, in 1899, the house was home to William Yates; then, pre-1920, the Rev William Beatty; and then T Bell, who remained there from the mid 1920s to the 1960s.

By 1970 the property had been converted into office accommodation.

Number Twelve was originally occupied by Robert Boag (Mayor of Belfast, 1876-7), of Albion Clothing Company, possibly the same person, though likely a father and son.

By 1920 it had become the Crescent Private Nursing Home, though reverted to an conventional dwelling again by 1930, with Miss Mabel Simms in residence.

Miss Simms remained there until at least 1960, but by 1970 the building had been converted into office accommodation.

Numbers Fourteen to Sixteen, Upper Crescent, are also to be restored, by the way.

Freemen of Belfast: 1911-19

HONORARY BURGESSES OF THE CITY OF BELFAST
ELECTED AND ADMITTED BY THE COUNCIL OF THE CITY OF BELFAST UNDER THE MUNICIPAL PRIVILEGE (IRELAND) ACT, 1875


14  Gustav Wilhelm Wolff ~ 1911

15  Sir Joseph Larmor Kt ~ 1912

16  Sir Almroth Edward Wright KBE CB ~ 1912

17  Sir James Henderson DL ~ 1912

18  Whitelaw Reid ~ 1912

19  Robert James McMordie QC ~ 1914

20  Mrs Julia McMordie CBE ~ 1914

21  The Rt Hon Edward Henry Baron Carson, PC ~ 1914

22  The Rt Hon Sir Crawford McCullagh Bt ~ 1917

23  Lady McCullagh ~ 1917

24  Henry Musgrave DL ~ 1917

25  Sir William Quartus Ewart Bt JP DL ~ 1917

26  The Rt Hon John Denton Pinkstone Earl of Ypres KP GCB OM GCVO KCMG PC ~ 1918

27  Sir Henry Hughes Wilson Bt GCB DSO ~ 1919

28  The Most Hon Charles Stewart Henry Marquess of Londonderry KG MVO PC ~ 1919

First published in August, 2012. 

Thursday 26 December 2019

1st Marquess of Exeter

The first who derived dignity from the city of Exeter was JOHN HOLLAND, Earl of Huntingdon, third son of Thomas de Holland, Earl of Kent, by the great heiress, JOAN OF KENT, 'Fair Maid of Kent', who was advanced, in 1397, in open parliament, to the DUKEDOM OF EXETER; but joining in a conspiracy with the Earl of Kent, he was attainted and beheaded in 1400, when his honours expired.

The Duke had married Elizabeth of Lancaster, daughter of John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster, and left issue.

Sixteen years later, Thomas Beaufort, Earl of Dorset, youngest son of John of Gaunt, by Katherine Swynford, was created, for life only, DUKE OF EXETER.

His Grace died in 1426, without issue, when all his honours expired; and from that period the city of Exeter remained without a duke for seventeen years, when JOHN HOLLAND was created, in 1443, DUKE OF EXETER.

His Grace, who was a Knight of the Garter, Lord High Admiral of England, Ireland, and Aquitaine, and Constable of the Tower of London, died in 1447, and was succeeded by his son,

HENRY, 3rd Duke (1430-75), a staunch Lancastrian, who sharing the temporary triumphs and defeats of his party was eventually, in 1461, attainted, when the dukedom expired.

MORE than thirty years subsequently elapsed before the title of EXETER was again borne, when at length HENRY COURTENAY, the restored Earl of Devon, was created, 1525, MARQUESS OF EXETER.

This nobleman, who was a distinguished courtier in the reign of HENRY VIII, sat in judgment on the trial of the unfortunate ANNE BOLEYN; but the year after, incurring the displeasure of the King, he was convicted of high treason, and beheaded in 1538, when the marquessate of Exeter became extinct.

His son and heir, the unhappy EDWARD COURTENAY (c1527-56) was imprisoned in the Tower during the remainder of the reign of HENRY VIII, but upon the accession of QUEEN MARY, he was released and created EARL OF DEVON.

About half a century afterwards the title of EXETER, as an earldom, was conferred upon the present family of CECIL, spelt at different times Seisyllt, Sicell, Seisyll, and Cycell, and founded by one of the most remarkable men in English history.

WILLIAM CECIL (1520-98), born at Bourne, Lincolnshire (son and heir of Sir Richard Cecil, an officer of the Court in attendance upon HENRY VIII), having attracted the attention and attained the subsequent favour of his Sovereign by a successful dispute with two intemperate chaplains of O'Neill, the Irish chieftain, on the power of the Pope, the King granted him a reversion of the office of Custos Brevium; and from that period he resolved to pursue a political, rather than a forensic course, which latter he had originally intended to adopt having entered himself at Gray's Inn in 1541.

In the reign of EDWARD VI, Mr Cecil was appointed Secretary of State, when he received the honour of knighthood and was sworn of the Privy Council.

Under the rule of QUEEN MARY, although a zealous reformist previously, Sir William, with the tact of the renowned Vicar of Bray, doffed his Protestant mantle, and conformed to the ancient faith.

This outward demonstration proved not to have been assumed in vain, for we find the wily politician enjoying again the sunshine of royal favour, and actually nominated, with Lord Paget and Sir Edward Hastings, to conduct Cardinal Pole, then invested with a Legatine Council, into England.

In this reign Cecil represented Lincolnshire in Parliament.

Immediately upon the accession of ELIZABETH I, however (when he became once more a staunch denouncer of of popish errors), the star of his fortune arose, and few statesmen have been guided through a more brilliant course.

His first official employment was his resumption as Secretary of State and, in that, so sensible was his royal mistress of his important services that Her Majesty elevated him to the peerage, 1571, as Baron Burghley, although at this period his private fortune does not appear to have been much advanced, for by a letter written by himself just after his elevation, he says that he is "the poorest lord in England."


A conspiracy was soon after discovered against his life, and the two assassins, Barney and Mather, declared, at their execution, that they were instigated by the Spanish ambassador; for which, with other offences, His Excellency was ordered to depart the Kingdom.

As a consolation for these perils, his lordship was honoured with the Order of the Garter in June, 1572; and in September following, at the decease of Lord Winchester, appointed Lord High Treasurer.

His lordship married firstly, Mary, sister of Sir John Cheke, tutor to EDWARD VI, by whom he had an only son,
THOMAS, his successor.
His first wife dying after a short period, he wedded secondly, Mildred, daughter of Sir Anthony Cooke, Knight, of Gidea Hall, Essex, by whom he had surviving issue,
ROBERT, created EARL OF SALISBURY;
Anne, Countess of Oxford;
Elizabeth.
The last memorable act of the Lord High Treasurer's life was an attempt to bring about a peace with Spain, in which he was vehemently opposed by the Earl of Essex, then in the fire of youth.

The young soldier becoming heated in the debate, the venerable minister was induced to pull out a prayer-book and point to the words, "men of blood shall not live out half their lives."

Burghley has been universally condemned for his participation in the destruction of the unhappy MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS - and justly.

Of the manner of living adopted by this eminent person, we are informed that, suitable to his rank and the custom of the times, he kept up an extraordinary degree of splendour in his houses and gardens, and everything belonging to him.

He had four residences:- his lodgings at Court; Cecil House in the Strand; his family seat of Burghley; and his own favourite seat at Theobalds House.

At his lordship's house in London he had dozens of of family members, exclusively of those that attended him at Court.

His expenses there, as we have it from a person who lived many years in his family, were £30 a week in his absence (about £9,000 in today's money), and between £40 and £50 when present.

At Theobalds House he had thirty persons in his family; and besides a constant allowance in charity, he directed £10 a week (about £3,000 today) to be laid out in keeping the poor at work in his gardens etc.

He kept a standing table for gentlemen and two other tables for persons of meaner condition, which were always served alike, whether he were in or out of town.

Twelve times he entertained the Queen at his house for several weeks together, at the expense of £2-3,000 each visit - a fabulous sum.

At his decease Lord Burghley left about £4,000 a year in land, £11,000 in money (£2.6 million today), and in valuable effects, about £14,000.

His lordship was succeeded by his elder son,

THOMAS, 2nd Baron (1542-1623); who was created EARL OF EXETER, 1605, and installed a Knight of the Garter.

His lordship espoused firstly, Dorothy, daughter and co-heir of John Neville, 4th Baron Latimer, and had issue,
WILLIAM, his successor;
Richard (Sir);
Edward, cr VISCOUNT WIMBLEDON;
Christopher, drowned in Germany;
Thomas;
Catherine; Lucy; Mildred; Mary; Dorothy; Elizabeth; Frances.
The 1st Earl married secondly, Frances, daughter of William Brydges, 4th Baron Chandos, and had an only daughter, ANNE.

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,

WILLIAM, 2nd Earl (1566-1640), KG, who married Elizabeth, only child and heir of Edward, 3rd Earl of Rutland, by which lady he had a son,
WILLIAM, who, in right of his mother, became 16th BARON DE ROS.
His lordship wedded secondly, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Drury, Knight, and had three daughters, his co-heirs,
Anne; Elizabeth; Diana.
The 2nd Earl was succeeded by his nephew,

DAVID, 3rd Earl (c1600-43), who was succeeded by his son,

JOHN, 4th Earl, who was succeeded, in 1678, by his only surviving son,

JOHN, 5th Earl (c1648-1700), who wedded Anne, only daughter of William, 3rd Earl of Devonshire, and was succeeded by his son,

JOHN, 6th Earl,
John Cecil, 6th Earl (1674–1721);
John Cecil, 7th Earl (c1700–22);
Brownlow Cecil, 8th Earl (1701–54);
Brownlow Cecil, 9th Earl (1725–93);
Henry Cecil, 10th Earl (1754–1804) (cr Marquess of Exeter in 1801). 
Marquesses of Exeter, second creation (1801):-
Henry Cecil, 1st Marquess (1754–1804);
Brownlow Cecil, 2nd Marquess (1795–1867);
William Alleyne Cecil, 3rd Marquess (1825–95);
Brownlow Henry George Cecil, 4th Marquess (1849–98);
William Thomas Brownlow Cecil, 5th Marquess (1876–1956);
David George Brownlow Cecil, 6th Marquess (1905–81);
William Martin Alleyne Cecil, 7th Marquess (1909–88);
(William) Michael Anthony Cecil, 8th Marquess (b 1935).
First published in October, 2017.  Exeter arms courtesy of European Heraldry. 

Wednesday 11 December 2019

Tynan Abbey


TYNAN ABBEY, County Armagh, was built in 1750 and enlarged in the Tudor-Gothic style around 1820-30.


It had an imposing two-storey entrance front, battlemented and pinnacled; a battlemented central tower and doorway too, with pointed Gothic windows.

Photo Credit: Stuart Blakely

The Rt Hon Sir Norman Stronge, 8th Baronet, MC JP, and his only son, James, were murdered by the IRA in the Abbey, which was burnt to the ground in 1981.

I have written about the Stronge Baronets elsewhere on this blog.

Photo Credit: Stuart Blakely

Originally the estate extended to some 8,000 acres. 

The late Douglas Deane OBE recalled the 8th Baronet's passion for wildlife at Tynan:
He went to live and farm at Tynan Abbey in 1928 and always his interest was in wild things; often he told me about the wildfowl which visited the lake in winter; the groups of Bewick swans; the flocks of white-fronted geese...

...he showed me an incubating woodcock, hidden in a pool of brown leaves by the edge of the main drive at Tynan and told me that his gamekeeper had seen a woodcock carry one of its young, held between its legs, from an open patch in the woods in to cover; and many times had watched a woodcock feed its young in the same fashion as pigeons.

Every year Sir Norman would invite me to Tynan to see the azaleas in colour and the seas of bluebells in the woods and always there was talk of butterflies, painted ladies, peacock and the rest. Sir Norman was the envy of his friends, being an excellent shot.

He would often finish a day's shooting with close to 200 pigeons...his cousin, Sir Basil Brooke [1st Viscount Brookeborough], had the edge on him and always seemed to finish the day with more.
First published in September, 2013. 

Sunday 1 December 2019

Shelter for Turnstones

When I was on holiday recently I spent the day on a little beach near the village of El Cotillo, on the island of Fuerteventura, Canary Islands.

Fuerteventura is renowned for its strong winds, though in my experience this can range from a gentle breeze to very strong, including what amounts to sand-storms on some of the island's beautiful beaches.

Many regular visitors to these beaches bring wind shelters with them.

I have one now myself, called the Quechua Arpenez 0.

This small wind-breaker measures almost three and a half feet in height, weighs two and a quarter pounds (about one kilogram in continental weight).

The bag containing it measures fifteen inches by three and a half inches (38cm x 9cm).

If you're taking hand luggage with you on the flight this bag shall fit easily into your baggage.


DAILY avian visitors to Cotillo Beach are the most captivating little birds, Turnstones, which forage along the beach and rocks for food.

Sometimes they are heard before they are seen because their call is quite distinctive.

I had some bread with me, which they seemed to appreciate, though apparently their preferred foods are insects and molluscs.

I have never seen turnstones literally turning stones over with their beaks in search of food.

Are there any in Northern Ireland?

Saturday 30 November 2019

The Musgrave Connection

  Norwood Tower © 2011 Lord Belmont in Northern Ireland

It was assumed in 1934 that Norwood Tower, Strandtown, Belfast, or its dower house, Clonaver, would pass to Oscar Henderson when Miss Florence Elizabeth Henderson, his aunt, died.

However, she bequeathed both, together with a majority holding in Belfast News Letter shares, to Sir Christopher Musgrave, Bart, OBE, a distant cousin.

This was a bitter blow to Oscar, a distinguished naval officer, and his family.


They could do nothing about the houses, though they did succeed in buying back the News-Letter shares.
Commander Oscar Henderson DSO CVO CBE RN (1891-1969) served in a destroyer during the 1st World War. He was second in command of HMS Iris at the famous Battle of Zeebrugge, in 1918, when a British force blocked the Mole by sinking a ship across the entrance.

Commander Henderson took command when the ship's captain was killed. He was awarded the DSO for his part in this epic.

He became Comptroller and Private Secretary to the 3rd Duke of Abercorn, 1st Governor of Northern Ireland; and was awarded a CVO and CBE for his services. 

Commander Henderson was the father of Bill and Brum Henderson.

Since the James Henderson (b 1797) was Maria Barker's (née Henderson) father; and the aforesaid James Henderson was Florence Elizabeth Henderson's grandfather; it seems reasonable to conclude that James Henderson was Sir Christopher Musgrave's great-grandfather.

Therefore, Sir Christopher Musgrave was Florence Elizabeth Henderson's first cousin twice removed.

Miss Henderson bequeathed Norwood Tower to Sir Christopher Musgrave, whose grandmother was Maria Henderson:
Henderson, Florence Elizabeth of Norwood Tower Strandtown Belfast spinster died 24 March 1934 Probate Belfast 22 February to sir Christopher Norman Musgrave baronet and John Johnson solicitor. Effects £11027 11s [£615,000 in today's money].

Maria Barker (née Henderson) was, therefore, Florence Elizabeth Henderson's aunt, since James Henderson (Maria's father) was Florence's grandfather.

Maria Henderson (1839-1905) was the tenth child of James Henderson (1797-1863) and Anne Peacock, and she was born on the 26th December, 1839.

Maria lived with her brother, James Alexander Henderson, at Norwood Tower and she taught his younger children (most likely including Florence, the youngest).

This was where she met her future husband, Frank Const Barker. 
Frank Barker was one of James Alexander Henderson's business friends. All the Barker family used the middle name Const after a Mr Const of Piccadilly, London. Mr Const was a wealthy business friend of Frank's father, Richard Barker, and when he died he left the family a large sum of money.

Maria Henderson and Frank Barker were married on the 15th September, 1862, and lived at Sorrento House, Dalkey, County Dublin.

They had eight children, of whom their third child was Kathleen Const Barker who married James Musgrave and had four children.

The first child was (Sir) Christopher Norman Musgrave, later 6th Baronet (1892-1956).

First published in May, 2011.

Monday 25 November 2019

7th Bishop of Down & Dromore

The House of Bishops of the Church of Ireland has approved the appointment of the Venerable David Alexander McClay, Archdeacon of Down, as Bishop-designate in succession to the Right Reverend Harold Miller, who announced his decision to retire on the 20th June, 2019.

David was educated at Trinity College, Dublin, and was ordained in 1988.

He was appointed to the curacy of Magheralin, and thereafter was incumbent of Kilkeel and Willowfield.

In December, 2016, David was appointed to the archdeaconry of Down.

His appointment as Bishop-designate of the United Dioceses of Down and Dromore was confirmed on the 4th November, 2019.

1st Earl of Mar and Kellie

THE EARLS OF MAR AND KELLIE WERE THE LARGEST LANDOWNERS IN CLACKMANNANSHIRE, WITH 6,143 ACRES


The family of Erskine probably took their name from the lands of Erskine, Renfrewshire.


THE RT HON SIR ALEXANDER ERSKINE OF GOGAR, Knight, third son of John, 5th Lord Erskine and 16th Earl of Mar de jure, by the Lady Margaret Campbell, daughter of Archibald, 2nd Earl of Argyll.

The house of Erskine, Earls and Countesses of Mar, is one of the most ancient families in the Scottish peerage; so old, indeed, that the date of the creation of its honours is lost in its antiquity.

This Alexander was sworn, in 1578, of His Majesty's privy council, nominated Governor of Edinburgh Castle, and constituted Vice-Chamberlain of Scotland.

He married Margaret, daughter of Lord Home, by whom he had three sons and three daughters.

The eldest son, Sir Alexander, fell at the surprise of Stirling Castle, in 1578, and the second,

SIR THOMAS ERSKINE, born in the same year with JAMES I, and educated with that monarch, having accompanied His Majesty to England, was created, in 1606, Baron Dirletoun and Viscount Fenton (the first viscountcy of Scotland).

His lordship was advanced to the dignity of an earldom, in 1619, as EARL OF KELLIE, installed a Knight of the Garter, and sworn of the privy councils of England and Scotland.

He married Anne, daughter of Sir Gilbert Ogilvie, of Powrie, by whom he had a daughter, and a son, Alexander, Viscount Fenton, who wedded the Lady Anne Seton, daughter of Alexander, 1st Earl of Dunfermline, by whom he left three sons:
ALEXANDER, 3rd Earl;
CHARLES;
THOMAS, the eldest.
THOMAS succeeded his grandfather in 1639, and dying unmarried in 1643, the family honours devolved upon his brother,

ALEXANDER, 3rd Earl, who was succeeded, in 1657, by his only son,

ALEXANDER, 4th Earl, who was also succeeded (in 1710) by an only son,

ALEXANDER, 5th Earl, who married twice and was succeeded, on his demise in 1756, by his eldest son,

THOMAS, 6th Earl, who died unmarried, in 1781, when the family honours devolved upon his brother,

ARCHIBALD, 7th Earl, who died, unmarried, in 1797, when the peerage reverted to his kinsman,

SIR CHARLES ERSKINE, Baronet, of Cambo, the direct descendant of Charles Erskine (who was created a baronet in 1666), youngest son of Alexander, Viscount Fenton, eldest son of Thomas, 1st Earl of Kellie.

His lordship dying unmarried in 1799, the family honours reverted to his uncle,

THOMAS, 9th Earl.
The heir presumptive is Lord Mar's brother, the Hon Alexander David Erskine, Master of Mar (b. 1952). It is known that the lineage survived in the Erskine-Kellies, with the current heir Andrew Erskine (b. 1998) estimated as the 17th Earl of Mar and 19th Earl of Kellie.
Cambo house (Image: Wikipedia/ Dr Richard Murray)


CAMBO HOUSE, near Kingsbarns, in Fife, was built between 1879-84, to designs by the architects Wardrop & Reid.
The estate of Cambo was granted to Robert de Newenham by a charter of King William the Lion. His descendents took the name "de Cambhou", and had settled in Fife by the early 14th century. In 1599, the estate was granted to Thomas Myretoun.
In 1668, Sir Charles Erskine Bt (d. 1677), the Lord Lyon King of Arms and brother of the 3rd Earl of Kellie, purchased the property from the creditors of Patrick Merton.

The estate passed through the Erskine family to the 5th Earl of Kellie, who forfeited his lands after supporting the Jacobite rising of 1745.

In 1759, Cambo was sold to the Charteris family, who bought it for their son who was studying at St Andrews University.

Thomas Erskine, 9th Earl of Kellie, bought the estate back in the 1790s.

A successful merchant in Sweden, he invested heavily in improving the estate, building the picturesque Georgian estate farms, and carrying out extensive land drainage.

The 9th Earl commissioned the architect Robert Balfour to remodel the house in 1795.

His descendents continued the improvement of the estate through the 19th century, laying out ornamental gardens, with a series of early cast iron bridges.
The old house comprised a tower house with numerous additions, including a first-floor conservatory. It was destroyed by fire in 1878, after a staff party when the Erskine family was away.
The present house was built on the same site between 1879-84, to designs by the architects Wardrop & Reid.

The house is operated as self-catering and bed & breakfast accommodation, while the walled garden and woodland gardens are open to the public year-round.

The estate woodlands have a significant collection of snowdrops, including over 300 varieties of Galanthus species.

The estate was awarded National Collection status by the National Council for the Conservation of Plants and Gardens.

Kingsbarns Golf Links was laid out in 2000 to designs by American golf course architects Kyle Phillips and Mark Parsinen.

The Alfred Dunhill Links Championship, an annual pro-am golf tournament, is played in October at Kingsbarns, St Andrews Old Course, and Carnoustie.


ERSKINE HOUSE, Glasgow,  was designed by Sir Robert Smirke, the architect of the British Museum.

During the 1st World War it became the Princess Louise Hospital for Limbless Sailors and Soldiers.

It is now the Mar Hall Hotel, its name recalling the estate’s former ownership by the Earl of Mar.
During the early 18th century, the Mar estate and old Erskine House came into the ownership of the Lords Blantyre. In 1828 Major General Robert W Stuart, the 11th Lord Blantyre and a distinguished veteran of the Wellington’s Peninsular campaigns during the Napoleonic Wars, commissioned the present house.
His architect, Sir Robert Smirke (1781-1867) was still engaged in designing the British Museum.

That, however, is a very classical design whereas Erskine House is more Gothic with touches of Tudor, in the small turrets and pointed arches in the principal windows and entrance porch.

The stone was quarried locally. Sir Charles Barry produced designs for the gardens.

The house was completed only in 1845.

The final cost was £50,000, about £2.5m today.

When the Blantyre line became extinct in 1900, the house was left derelict but in 1916 it re-opened as the Princess Louise Scottish Hospital of Limbless Sailors and Soldiers.

In recent years £15m has been invested in the refurbishment of the house and the restoration of its many original features as the Mar Hall Hotel.

First published in November, 2013.

Saturday 23 November 2019

Wooster Advice

From Right Ho, Jeeves, written in 1934 by Sir PG Wodehouse.

Bertie Wooster hailed the spiking of Gussie Fink-Nottle's orange-juice with gin:-

"...it just shows, what any member of Parliament will tell you, that if you want real oratory, the preliminary noggin is essential. Unless pie-eyed, you cannot hope to grip."

Friday 8 November 2019

Dumfries House Book

I was at home one day in March, 2014, when, somewhat unexpectedly, a postman arrived with a large parcel.

He handed me the package and I almost immediately recognized the hand-writing of an old school pal who works at the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland (RCAHMS).

He knows how keen I am about heritage and country houses.

To my delight, the parcel contained a hard-back copy of Dumfries House.

In this landmark book, the author, Simon Green, draws on previously unpublished documents from the extensive archives of the Bute family, who lived in the house from the early 19th century until the death of Lady Bute in 1993.

There is a wealth of photographs, plans and drawings from the National Trust for Scotland and the RCAHMS.

Exploring the people and the ideas behind a unique building, 'Dumfries House' is the story of the survival of a treasured eighteenth century family residence.

First published in March, 2014.

Wednesday 6 November 2019

6th Duke of Westminster, 1951-2016

GERALD, 6TH DUKE OF WESTMINSTER, WAS BORN AT OMAGH, COUNTY TYRONE, ON THE 22ND DECEMBER, 1951

The Most Noble Gerald Cavendish Duke of Westminster, KG CB CVO OBE TD DL, had strong, tangible and affectionate connections with Northern Ireland.

His Grace's father Robert, the 5th Duke, lived at Ely Lodge in County Fermanagh.


His mother Viola was Lord-Lieutenant of County Fermanagh.
In February, 2014, The Prince of Wales, through The Prince’s Countryside Fund, announced that £50,000 would be donated from its emergency fund to help farmers and rural communities in Somerset. The Duke of Westminster generously confirmed he would personally match the funding and donate an additional £50,000 taking the total available to £100,000.
Gerald Grosvenor was born at Omagh, County Tyrone, on the 22nd December, 1951.

He had the following honours:
  • Knight Companion of the Most Noble Order of the Garter
    Companion of the Military Division of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath
  • Commander of the Royal Victorian Order
  • Officer of the Military Division of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire 
His Grace was awarded the Territorial Decoration, having served as a major-general in the TA; and was a Deputy Lieutenant of Cheshire.

The Duke spent his childhood at Ely Lodge Estate, an idyllic demesne in County Fermanagh on the edge of Lower Lough Erne, surrounded by forest and woodland.

He was styled Gerald, Earl Grosvenor, between 1967-79.

The Westminster family had an absolutely beautiful, classic, wooden motor yacht which they kept at Ely Lodge, called Trasna.

It was the finest vessel I'd ever seen on Lough Erne, being about fifty feet in length and it held sixteen persons comfortably.


Trasna sported a splendid mascot on her bow: a golden sheaf of wheat (or corn).

When the present 6th Duke moved permanently to his family seat at Eaton Hall in Cheshire, Trasna was acquired by the National Trust briefly; whilst moored at the boat-house on Crom Estate. I've sailed on her several times.

Trasna now belongs to the Duke of Abercorn and is based at Belle Isle, County Fermanagh.

First published October, 2009.

Sunday 3 November 2019

Cave Bovem!

I was walking recently in a country estate, through woodland, and encountered an obstacle en route, viz. a company of archers practicing their sport.

One of the archers advised me to divert my course lest I had a suit of armour, to my amusement.

Accordingly I took a left turn into a large, open field

A little further on I encountered a herd of cattle in the distance.

Pausing and cogitating, I deemed it best to alert them to my presence so I clapped and whistled.

This only seemed to arouse their curiosity, and the leader of the pack came towards me.

The rest followed.

I decided to retreat, though they continued their pursuit.

As I quickened my pace, they matched my pace.

I darted into the woods, though a small gap where there was a holly bush, thinking they stop following me.

To my horror they chased me.

These cows must have thought instinctively that I was their feeder, though the experience was quite alarming.

Eventually the leader simply passed me by, and the rest followed.

An acquaintance related his worst experience with a bull.

He was shooting with a friend  at a marsh in County Down and, as they walked down a field the bull ran up and down the hedge trumpeting.

They quickened their pace,  but to their horror saw it break through the hedge above them.

My acquaintance used to be pretty nifty and took off for the river, running into the marsh, intending to run into it.

As he did so, he was stunned to see his companion - a quite unathletic chap, fly past him.

He threw a brand new £4,000 gun (now about £15,000) over the river and made a fantastic leap of over 14 feet over it.

The steer thankfully skidded to a halt at the river's edge.

The companion tried to replicate the jump on dry land, and the best he could leap in his shooting gear was 8-9 feet. 

Fear had obviously lent him wings.

The gun fortunately just fell in the mud.

Wednesday 30 October 2019

No Smoking, Bertie!

Here’s another sublime extract from that master of prose, Sir P G Wodehouse, in his novel, Very Good, Jeeves!:-

“These are deep waters, Jeeves.”

“Precisely, sir.”

“And the ghastly part of it all is that he seems to consider it necessary, in order to keep his job, to treat me like a long-lost leper. Thus killing my only chance of having anything approaching a decent time in this abode of desolation. For do you realize, Jeeves, that my aunt says I mustn’t smoke while I’m here?”

“Indeed, sir?”

“Nor drink.”

“Why is this, sir ?”

“Because she wants me - for some dark and furtive reason which she will not explain - to impress a fellow named [the Right Hon A B] Filmer [MP].”

“Too bad, sir. However, many doctors, I understand, advocate such abstinence as the secret of health. They say it promotes a freer circulation of the blood and insures the arteries against premature hardening.”

“Oh, do they? Well, you can tell them next time you see them that they are silly asses.”

“Very good, sir.”

Monday 28 October 2019

The Ross Memoirs: II

SIR JOHN ROSS (1853-1935), THE LAST LORD CHANCELLOR OF IRELAND, WROTE 
RANDOM REMINISCENCES IN 1924, IN A BOOK ENTITLED THE YEARS OF MY PILGRIMGE



NORTH IRISH HORSE

The first mobilized squadron of the North Irish Horse sailed in the transport Architect to Havre on the 17th August, 1914.

Among the officer were Major Lord Cole, afterwards Earl of Enniskillen, Captain Sir Emerson Herdman, Lord Jocelyn, later Earl of Roden, Lieutenants David Kerr, T Hughes, and Ronald Ross.

Lieutenant-Colonel Ronald Ross MC

Another squadron followed shortly afterwards commanded by Major Lord Massereene, and included R A West, who obtained a VC, but was killed subsequently.

Several ex-service officers managed to get out with them, such as Major Barry, RHA (son of my old friend Lord Justice Barry), who did great service.

A heroic youth, Kenneth Greer, son of T M Greer DL, County Antrim, also contrived to embark with them, who was destined to fall while serving in the Irish Guards, after he had done deeds of reckless courage in France.

I do not propose to narrate the history of this contingent, although afterwards, with Ronald [2nd Baronet] I visited the line of the great retreat of the Old Contemptibles from Mons, and nearly all the battlefields on which he had been engaged.

Sir Ronald Ross Bt MC

He went through the whole war to the end; was awarded the Military Cross and the Croix de Guerre, and was an infantry brigade major, serving with the 36th (Ulster) Division at the time of the Armistice.

Friday 25 October 2019

The Ross Memoirs: I

SIR JOHN ROSS (1853-1935), THE LAST LORD CHANCELLOR OF IRELAND, WROTE RANDOM REMINISCENCES IN 1924, IN A BOOK ENTITLED THE YEARS OF MY PILGRIMAGE


THE AMERICAN ENCOUNTER

ON one occasion, we met an American gentleman, who had formerly been a Foreign Secretary to the United States Government.

In those days, Americans were much more aggressive than they are now; he deprecated all our institutions and exalted those of his own country.

I enjoyed myself very much in contradicting and arguing with him.

After dinner one evening he said: "Are you connected with the miscreant General Ross-of-Bladensburg, who burnt down our capital, Washington, in 1814?"

Out of mischief, I resolved to borrow the rights of my friend, Sir John Ross-of-Bladensburg KCB, for the occasion.

Admitting that I was, I added:

"If you go on as you are doing, we are determined to go over and do it again."

Tuesday 22 October 2019

The Capper Series: III

Drum Manor,  Photo Credit: Ashley McLean


Wilfrid Merydith Capper MBE (1905-98) was a former Northern Ireland civil servant whose true passion was for the preservation and conservation of the countryside.

He conceived and created The Ulster Way.

The following article is a selective extract from Caring for the Countryside: A History of 50 Years of the Ulster Society for the Preservation of the Countryside, published in 1987.



BUILDINGS ON FORESTRY LAND

I AM afraid the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry Division, had not a very good record when it came to preserving old mansions.

Those at Tollymore, Clonelly, and of course Belvoir (where the young Duke of Wellington spent his school holidays) were all demolished.

No doubt they had all varying degrees of dry rot, woodworm or general decay, but were they really so bad that with a little money spent on them and treated by modern methods they could not have been saved?

I suppose it was largely a question of money.

Whether the Department had any practical use for the buildings or not must have been a factor.

The job of the Department was to produce timber, not preserve historic buildings.

A number of smaller buildings like the shooting lodge at Ballypatrick Forest which was not in bad condition, were similarly pulled down.

Drum Manor, near Cookstown, was perhaps too far gone when acquired but if the Department had been able to purchase it a year or two sooner it is probable it could, and probably would, have been preserved.

Now only the tower and some walls are left.

Apart from this matter of old buildings the Forestry Service has always been of the greatest help to us.

Wednesday 16 October 2019

The Capper Series: II

Carrickblacker House

Wilfrid Merydith Capper MBE (1905-98) was a former Northern Ireland civil servant whose true passion was for the preservation and conservation of the countryside.

He conceived and created The Ulster Way.

The following article is a selective extract from Caring for the Countryside: A History of 50 Years of the Ulster Society for the Preservation of the Countryside, published in 1987.


CARRICKBLACKER

PERHAPS an even greater failure was our effort to save Carrickblacker House, near Portadown.

This was probably the last Jacobean manor house in Ulster.

The owners would have liked to preserve it but the cost of repair and maintenance was fairly heavy.

The architectural "experts" of the day were of no help at all, pronouncing it of no special interest!

It was tragic to see this beautiful old building being battered down by the demolishers.

The lintel over the door with the date 1692 was smashed in two but I was able to pick up two parts and have preserved them.

At the time, in 1956, there was no listing of buildings and the Ulster Architectural Heritage Society had not been born.

If it had been, the building might well have been saved.

Our own overworked and under-funded Society could only do so much.

Wednesday 9 October 2019

Prince Edward in NI

The Earl of Wessex has begun a two-day visit to Northern Ireland.

His Royal Highness arrived at Florence Court, County Fermanagh, where he met primary school children from County Cavan in the Republic of Ireland.

Prince Edward, who last visited Northern Ireland in 2015, toured the mansion house before touring the kitchen garden, which is undergoing restoration.

His Royal Highness also met staff and volunteers from the National Trust, which owns Florence Court estate.

HRH's next engagement was officially to open a new £400,000 extension and refurbishment at a scout hut in Cladagh Glen.

He was then entertained with songs around a campfire, before moving on to the Lakeland Community Centre in Belcoo, County Fermanagh.

Image

Friday 4 October 2019

New Fermanagh Vice Lord-Lieutenant

The Viscount Brookeborough, KG, Lord-Lieutenant of County Fermanagh, with the approval of Her Majesty The Queen, has been pleased to appoint
Mr Charles Patrick Benjamin PLUNKET MBE UD DL
Lisbellaw
County Fermanagh
Vice Lord-Lieutenant for the said County, his Commission bearing date the 22nd day of August 2019.

Signed:

Brookeborough,
Lord-Lieutenant of the County

Sunday 22 September 2019

Portballintrae Visit

Seaport Lodge, September, 2019

Earlier in the week I spent several days in the seaside resort of Portballintrae, County Antrim.

This coastal village, near Bushmills, has always been popular, with its delightful sandy bays, Bushfoot Strand, the little harbour, and its general location on the Causeway Coast.

We used to spend weekends here at the Beach Hotel with friends.

Alas, that hotel was demolished many years ago and has been replaced with modern apartments.

The Bayview Hotel, however, remains; not the original building, which was also demolished ages ago.

I spent two agreeable evenings in the lounge bar of the Bayview, contented with my iPad and headphones.

Catch of the Day at the Bayview Hotel

On the first evening I had a bar meal comprising a blue cheese and beetroot salad, followed by the "Catch of the Day": smoked cod, mashed potato, spinach, surrounded by a creamy sauce.

This food was delicious.

Thereafter I removed to a banquette-style seat near the front door and Reception.

I have acquired a pair of state-of-the-art noise-cancelling headphones, Bluetooth (wireless), which cut out virtually all outside noise except whatever you're listening to on the iPad or other device.

Quite remarkable technology.

The next morning I paid a brief visit to Coleraine, one of my favourite towns.

On the way home, I made a small detour to Bushmills Garden Centre, a few miles outside the village itself.

For some inexplicable reason I've developed an interest in gardening, albeit on a modest scale.

I was on the look-out for a plant that likes dry conditions and the garden centre was promoting Sedums.


I'm apprised that this variety thrives in sunshine and doesn't mind dry conditions, so a spot between two thirsty trees in the border ought to satiate it.

I chose a lovely Sedum Spectabile "Brilliant".

When I purchased it there was a bee eating the nectar, adhering to it like a magnet.

It refused to budge (lest it had discovered the irresistible Belmont bouquet), so some gentle persuasion was required, viz. some of the Belmont blowing.

*

After breakfast one morning I strolled the short distance to Seaport Lodge, once the maritime residence of the Leslies.

Seaport Lodge commands one of the finest prospects in Portballintrae, with its little private harbour.

Unfortunately it has lain derelict for many years, though the owner is finally restoring it as I write.

Seafood Thermidor

The next evening I motored into Portrush, past the celebrated Royal Portrush Golf Club, to the harbour, where I had the Seafood Thermidor at Ramore Wine Bar.

I rather like the Ramore complex, which has several different bars and restaurants.

Just do not expect the conventional type of restaurant where you can reserve a table in advance, order at the table, and await service.

At Ramore wine bar you are shown to a clearly numbered table, peruse the menu, and walk up to the bar counter where they ask for your number, take your order, and you settle the account there and then.

This unconventional system works very well for Ramore and I find it perfectly acceptable.

During my break in Portballintrae the weather was mostly sunny, dry and quite warm, something I took full advantage of.

Perma-tan Belmont.

*

THE French Rooms is a charming restaurant in the centre of Bushmills, just along the street from the Inn.

Their opening hours vary, and at the time of writing dinner is only served on Friday and Saturday evenings; so I was fortunate to get my favourite (and lucky) Table Eight.

The last time I was seated at Table Eight an unknown American couple paid for my meal (unknown to me, because they had paid for it and departed some time before I'd finished my meal).

For this happy reason Mrs Bolton recognized me instantly and greeted my like an old pal.

Perhaps they ought to re-name Table Eight "Lord Belmont's Table".


For dinner I had the goat's cheese, served in a little, tied paper parcel on a wooden platter, with home-made chutney, lemongrass-infused olive oil, and rustic bread.

The main course consisted of sea-bass, garlic cubed fries, and beetroot gratin.

Needless to say, it was all delicious and superb; beautifully presented, too.


After dinner I repaired to the Bushmills Inn, ordered a beverage, and settled down at a small table with the iPad and headphones.

The next morning it was time to pack up, tidy up, and motor back home to the Belmont GHQ.