Rathlin Journey

Flora at Craigmacagan (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

Something keeps drawing me back to Rathlin, Northern Ireland's only inhabited off-shore island.

The slow ferry - the larger one which can take vehicles and passengers - left at 10am on Monday morning, so I parked my car at the ferry terminus in Ballycastle, County Antrim, and made my way the hundred yards or so down to the pier.

The trip to the island takes about 45 minutes, twice as long as the fast, non-vehicle ferry.

I stayed at the Manor House for the duration of my three days on the island.

The manor house hotel is a mere hop, skip, and jump from the harbour, which is literally opposite it.

Having checked in, I immediately had a stroll around Church Bay, from St Thomas's parish church to the old Kelp Store.

I had a drink in the legendary McCuaig's Bar, where a lady from Scotland with her two little terriers was staying at the nearby glamping pods; and one of the staff, Rauri Morgan, recounted the time at his cottage where he encountered a film crew with none other than Ben Fogle for New Lives in the Wild.

Kelp Store (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

There used to be resident parish priests and rectors on the island, though this has not been the case for many years.

Kelp Store ca 1890 (Image: Rathlin Community)

The Gages, former landlords, now live at the Glebe House (former rectory) when they are on Rathlin.

Having enjoyed a good cooked breakfast at the Manor House on Tuesday morning, I donned the hiking gear and made my way to Rue Lighthouse, which is located at the southernmost point on the island.

En route there are several points of interest, including one ruinous cottage in a field near Ushet Lough, reputedly the home of William McKinley's ancestors.

Ruinous Cottage near Ushet Lough (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

McKinley, of Ulster-Scots heritage, was the 25th President of the United States.

Moving on, passing Ushet Lough, up and over undulating hilly countryside, I arrived at Ushet Port, which today comprises two derelict, roofless buildings adjacent to a small natural harbour.

Seals at Ushet Port (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

These buildings were once used as stores for imports and exports of grain, spirits, rope; and most certainly contraband!

Old steel tying post at Ushet Port)

I've read that the coastguards on the island at that time were more concerned about smuggling than saving lives.

The Rue Lighthouse is the most recent of the three lighthouses on Rathlin, having been completed about 1920.

ON Tuesday afternoon I ambled the short distance from the manor house to Craigmacagan Walking Trail, a brand new track created by the RSPB in 2022.

Undeterred by a dog warning notice and small herd of young, docile cattle, I trekked over gentle slopes, along a narrow path surrounded by heather, and was rewarded by a splendid view of the Mull of Kintyre and Scottish mainland. 

I'm glad I found this really beautiful trail.

HAVING donned the old nose-bag at eight-thirty on Wednesday morning for another big breakfast, it was time to travel westwards.

Bert's Puffin Bus was waiting at the harbour, so I paid the fare and jumped aboard for the four-mile journey to West Lighthouse and RSPB's bird centre.

Inside the centre I chatted to the wardens and enjoyed a cup of hot chocolate.

Having already been to the West Lighthouse a few years ago, on this occasion I decided to start walking towards the Kinramer Permissive Path, a short trek of about one and a half miles.

Despite abiding by the directions, unfortunately I couldn't find the signposts!

Seemingly wooden signposts can be vulnerable to passing cattle.

Still, I traversed the route which I judged it to be, towards the cliff, though ended up somewhere in the middle of rough terrain, beside a gully of some sort.

Peacock Butterfly at Kinramer (Timothy Ferres, 2022)

Whilst making my way through long, thick, and very wet vegetation I was looking down at the ground and something strikingly colourful caught my eye: a Peacock Butterfly.

I'd never seen one of these before, so it was quite a surprise for me.

It had started to rain quite steadily since my walk back to Church Bay, so I was glad that I had the hiking gear, fairly new Goretex hiking boots, and so on.

Back at the manor house I peeled off the gear to let it all dry off, and had a good old beaker of "Rosie Lea."

That afternoon, suitably replenished and refreshed, it was time to revisit the East Lighthouse, the oldest of the lighthouse trio.

This building dates from about 1850; and, as I was standing outside the lengthy wall surrounding it I watched two men on one of those suspended electric platforms painting a section of the lighthouse matt black with rollers.

I gather the Rathlin's community has ambitious plans for the keepers' accommodation beside the lighthouse, which includes at least two quite substantial residences.

There were once six keepers living here with their families (and if they had large families there could easily have been fifty or sixty souls).

My stay on glorious Rathlin ended on Thursday morning, embarking upon the ten o'clock fast ferry back to Ballycastle.